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Old 10-22-2018, 02:12 AM   #576
redrexmeister
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Scanned through pages here and have yet to see reliable way of running built engine for 100k at high power level.

I am thinking when the time comes to rebuild someone will figure out how to drop in Ascent engine. Judging from latest WRX mod trends, FA2.4DIT should be able to reliably run 350-400 whp.

Anyone already tried to drop Ascent engine in the STI?
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Last edited by redrexmeister; 10-22-2018 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:00 PM   #577
user1029
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Iím at upper 600whp at 38psi for the past 30k miles on IAG closed deck, Iíll report back after another 70k miles of abuse I ran 500whp for 60k miles on IAG stage 2 block back in the day but got bore of the power
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:03 PM   #578
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You have the best chance of getting to 100k on the Manley turbotuff/IAG spec pistons because they have beefier rings for better long term wear and gas ports for better ring seal under boost
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Old 10-24-2018, 02:07 PM   #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by user1029 View Post
You have the best chance of getting to 100k on the Manley turbotuff/IAG spec pistons because they have beefier rings for better long term wear and gas ports for better ring seal under boost
Well if they are limited to a 28.7 mm compression height with +2 rods (or 30.7mm on 130.5 rod), and they use 2618, that doesn't really make them any different from any other piston using lateral gas ports (don't want vertical ports on a street car), now does it?
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:39 AM   #580
05wrxhybrid257
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Hey guys,

I'm about to start ordering components so that I can do a minor build for my DD STi. As far as the block goes, stock rods with wiesco pistons (stock size with a quick honing of the cylinder walls) and race bearings will just about do it. Of course Ill get the ARP headstuds and either OEM or cosworth head gaskets. I may do some BC cams with no other head head work, but that would just be extra.

I'm a firm believer in making more with less. Its an embarrassment seeing people go low 11's with 20+ thousand into a car. I have had great track results with the run of the mill OEM block and turbo charger. I just want to stay simple, and reliable. My stock block now has 52k on it, most of the miles are of extreme abuse. The car for the last few months has been eating oil so I figure I have a minor ring-land failure (even though the compression was tested to be 145-135-145-135 and the car makes terrific power).

I drive 100 miles day and can not count on my fingers and tows how many times I actually hit full boost. The reason I bring this up is simple. Every one I see building motors beats the crap out of the car and is in for a rebuild in a few thousand miles. They tell their tuner to push it even though warned not to, yada yada and back for more $$$$'s later.

I want to do this once, as preventative maintenance. I want to track the car and drive spiritedly on the way to my office with no BS. If my stock block has lasted this long, I expect that my built block would last even longer. If this doesnt seem feasible, taking into account 350-400whp (dynotjet) everyday and 400-450whp for the track, then a stock block goes in and the car goes up for sale.

Anyone have 30-50k on a built block that has not been refreshed 46 times?
Iíve got a 2005 wrx with a built ej257. WRX heads. Forged weisco pistons. Forged block. Bc 272 cams. ID 1000cc injectors. Bc lifters. ARP headstud. Perrin inlet to Cobb intake. FP green turbo. MRT big top mount. Tial 44mm wastegate. Full 3in exhaust with one cat. Pro tuned. Stock 5 speed trans with 136k miles. Built motor has 42k miles.

If you take care of it and donít beat on it, itíll keep going. Use Motul oil and change religiously. Donít use the car in cold weather.
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:00 AM   #581
pdximpreza
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Interesting thread. I just happened to pick up a used 2008 STI with 60k and a lot of mods. New built motor with lots of Manley internals. Its what really sold me on the car. Hopefully I made a good choice.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:24 PM   #582
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Originally Posted by pdximpreza View Post
Interesting thread. I just happened to pick up a used 2008 STI with 60k and a lot of mods. New built motor with lots of Manley internals. Its what really sold me on the car. Hopefully I made a good choice.
For a street car, it has more to do with maintenance, how it's driven, and how it was built, rather than the parts within it....for longevity.

I say that as if tolerances are right, mileage isn't going to kill a forged aftermarket rod in street use. Most all builds have a 2618 piston with a skirt profile to take the heat of way more power (piston heat) than they see in daily use. So they're all pretty even there. Beyond that taking care of it gets you down the road.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:18 PM   #583
redrexmeister
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So, I was looking at $2300 FlatIronsTuning short block build kit that includes:
BASE ROTATING ASSEMBLY WITH CP, JE, MANLEY, OR WISECO PISTONS, ACL BEARINGS, AND EJ257 CASE HALVES

The parts are matched/balanced according to their sales rep. I can put the short block together with the refreshed heads. I can do the assembly myself, but I do not know much about balancing the rotating assembly or blueprinting.

In this case, I am saving over $800 compared to the IAG stage 2 block. My question is do you shorten the life of a motor by just doing assembly without additional balancing/blueprinting?

Would it be a worthwhile exercise to have this kit for a 100K miles engine for a daily driven vehicle taking into consideration that I just do assembly of the kit from the parts provided without additional balancing and blueprinting.

https://www.flatironstuning.com/p-20...-assembly.aspx

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Old 11-09-2018, 10:20 PM   #584
redrexmeister
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Sorry for double post.

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Old 11-09-2018, 10:21 PM   #585
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i.e.triple post

Last edited by redrexmeister; 11-11-2018 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:09 PM   #586
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Default 2003 forester 2.5xs

Hey there,

Got an 03 forester 2.5 with a legacy GT trans I'm trying to sell or maybe get fixed. It is blowing exhaust into the expansion tank and has had a minor soft seize. It can still start run and drive for a bit. I'm curious what kind of costs would be involved here if I were to fix it. Or maybe how much it would be to sell. Has STI seats and the extra interior with it. Also have 2012 STI wheels that I can sell with. Lmk! Thanks
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Old Yesterday, 09:53 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrexmeister View Post
The parts are matched/balanced according to their sales rep. I can put the short block together with the refreshed heads. I can do the assembly myself, but I do not know much about balancing the rotating assembly or blueprinting.

In this case, I am saving over $800 compared to the IAG stage 2 block. My question is do you shorten the life of a motor by just doing assembly without additional balancing/blueprinting?
Well not knowing what they're doing might be an issue. If they're saying they bored and honed to size (using a torque plate), cut rings to size, mic'ed and measured everything, balanced everything...so everything less the final assembly, then you should be good.

If they just balanced crank, pistons, rods; then you'll still have some work to do. I've done this before for customers in foreign countries with strict freight issues and crap machine shops. So I shipped the engine in smaller, nearly ready to assemble form.
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Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM   #588
redrexmeister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
Well not knowing what they're doing might be an issue. If they're saying they bored and honed to size (using a torque plate), cut rings to size, mic'ed and measured everything, balanced everything...so everything less the final assembly, then you should be good.

If they just balanced crank, pistons, rods; then you'll still have some work to do. I've done this before for customers in foreign countries with strict freight issues and crap machine shops. So I shipped the engine in smaller, nearly ready to assemble form.
My understanding is that FlatIronsTuning supplies new oem block, pistons are matched to the stock size. I do not think they bore and hone a new oem block.

Forgive me a layman question as I am only learning about an engine build. If I understand you correctly, one still must bore and hone a new block, even though both new stock block is bored to 99.5mm and new forged pistons with rings are made to fit 99.5mm diameter spec?

Did I get it correctly?
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