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Old 06-27-2017, 05:27 PM   #51
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whispering_eye View Post
I'd say it's more useful in labwork than in my daily. I was thinking more trends than actual values. It's easy to see if you have a fuel/spark issue if you know what your engine should be around at what load. But again would be hard to do while driving, so I see your point.
This is definitely true - but unfortunately, it's a very expensive gauge setup for basically using it as an idiot light.

As a real world example, I lost fuel on one of my cylinders due to a pin wiggling free of one of the engine connectors. Because I'm running a standalone ECU, the engine kept running... just not exactly what I would call 'well'. I had my wife drive a laptop out to me and found that one of the injectors had an open circuit (MoTeC diagnosis tools are fantastic), but a later review of the logs showed the massively incorrect AFR readings due to the 4th cylinder pumping air.

So yes, the AFR gauge would have told me there was a problem in this case... but it wouldn't have really told me what the actual issue was; it also wouldn't have told me there was a problem any sooner than the rough running did.

Honestly, the only time an AFR gauge would really be something that would benefit you (and be worth the cost) would be immediately following a professional tune where you cannot view the tune itself (many tuners lock the tune as IP). With enough knowledge about target AFR under load, this would let you check the tuners work to ensure they haven't run the motor too lean.

I should specify that when I say AFR gauge here, I specifically mean the driver-visible gauge. I log wideband data 100% of time and this is never a bad idea.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:40 PM   #52
whispering_eye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
This is definitely true - but unfortunately, it's a very expensive gauge setup for basically using it as an idiot light.



As a real world example, I lost fuel on one of my cylinders due to a pin wiggling free of one of the engine connectors. Because I'm running a standalone ECU, the engine kept running... just not exactly what I would call 'well'. I had my wife drive a laptop out to me and found that one of the injectors had an open circuit (MoTeC diagnosis tools are fantastic), but a later review of the logs showed the massively incorrect AFR readings due to the 4th cylinder pumping air.



So yes, the AFR gauge would have told me there was a problem in this case... but it wouldn't have really told me what the actual issue was; it also wouldn't have told me there was a problem any sooner than the rough running did.



Honestly, the only time an AFR gauge would really be something that would benefit you (and be worth the cost) would be immediately following a professional tune where you cannot view the tune itself (many tuners lock the tune as IP). With enough knowledge about target AFR under load, this would let you check the tuners work to ensure they haven't run the motor too lean.



I should specify that when I say AFR gauge here, I specifically mean the driver-visible gauge. I log wideband data 100% of time and this is never a bad idea.


Well put! Although I wouldn't shell out for a motec yet. . I personally didn't really like tuning off of it although I know how advantageous it is over others.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:07 PM   #53
swanng
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Default Rerouting PCV

Mr. Saturn-
You never did describe in detail how to go about rerouting the PCV with some extra hose and tees, vs. purchasing an AOS. Could you please elaborate a bit?
Thanks!

Disregard. Found that old thread.

Last edited by swanng; 05-30-2018 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:13 AM   #54
WRXfan4_10years
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OP, I am on the exact same page as you, except luckily I do not dd my 2011 WRX at the moment. As far as "longevity" or "protective" mods are concerned this is what I have done so far; AOS, Upgraded TMIC, ELH (really is good to have equal egt's on cyl 3 and 4), DP (the oem dp is an absolute joke), and protune. The next thing I really need to jump on is the killer b kit with oil pick up/pan and baffle, as well as some new fuel rails to address the stumble issue, and perhaps some air pump delete block off plates to finally delete the air pump. All of that is what I would recommend. And honestly the most important aspects are how you treat it. Get a really good pro tune, always run good 5w40 and check it regularly, and always make sure you warm up/cool down your car!
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:22 AM   #55
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXfan4_10years View Post
...as well as some new fuel rails to address the stumble issue...
Might be the fuel pressure regulator as well. I noticed a better idle and acceleration when I upgraded to an adjustable FPR. Mind you, the factory one likely had 70,000 miles on it....


Last edited by viper_crazy; 06-03-2018 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 05:27 PM   #56
PDXREALTOR
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Are you guys talking about a plain old AFR / WB02 gauge? I have one, and me watching it saved my motor during a fuel pump issue not too long ago.

It's also recommended more than once as a good tool to have for speed density converts.

I subscribe, after a lot of reading to the oil cooler. I have a Perrin unit here waiting for me to install it. It has a thermostat. I found it a pretty simple decision really. Heat is the enemy and an oil cooler helps with heat. How can that hurt? As long as there is a thermostatic plate it can only help imo.

I check my oil before I drive, every time. I park in the garage, open the hood, and that's how it sits until next time I check my oil and start her up.

When my motor eats oil, it eats it all at once. Never a little at a time. It's always 6-10 oz. Not sure where it goes, but I'm sure it's always one drive, a hard drive or several pulls, because I check it like a compulsive maniac.

The more I read and learn about these subarus the more I think checking/changing oil and monitoring/reviewing logs regularly is key to getting the most out of your motor.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:22 AM   #57
EngineHacker
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The protective modification is to buy a long warranty and leave the car alone.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:19 PM   #58
hoang5659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swanng View Post
Mr. Saturn-
You never did describe in detail how to go about rerouting the PCV with some extra hose and tees, vs. purchasing an AOS. Could you please elaborate a bit?
Thanks!

Disregard. Found that old thread.
can someone post the link to this thread? i cant seem to find it. i have a Crawford AOS but if this mod is easy to do, i'd like to save the money and sell my AOS. thanks.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:11 PM   #59
mrsaturn7085
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Originally Posted by hoang5659 View Post
can someone post the link to this thread? i cant seem to find it. i have a Crawford AOS but if this mod is easy to do, i'd like to save the money and sell my AOS. thanks.
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2870817
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:17 AM   #60
hoang5659
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awesome! thank you sir!
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