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Old 01-16-2005, 01:51 AM   #1
essogas
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Default First problem with STi... CEL, CRUISE, Parking

I need some help folks. I have a 04 STI with a TURBO Back exhaust. There is ONE high-flow CAT still in the downpipe. (no ported wastegate) I've had this mod since early October and have never had a single problem to date until tonight. -10 Celsius outside and the car was completely warmed up. I HIT WOT in 4th or 5th gear and I felt a sudden surge or thump. I slowed down and noticed the CEL and cruise lights came on and would not go off. The whole way home the car ran completely fine. Smooth and powerful and no issues. But when I parked the car and turned it off I noticed the parking lights would not go off. I decided the only thing I could do was to disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent dead battery and ask for help here. Does anyone know what has caused this parking light, CEL, Cruise lights to come on?

I don't know what to do.

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Old 01-16-2005, 02:05 AM   #2
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....did you bump the switch on top of the steering collum, the parking light switch.....and that's why your p-lights are on.......mebbe...???
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Old 01-16-2005, 02:07 AM   #3
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^^^ Maybe. I'm not sure. But I think I hit fuel cut-off. How do I fix this and get the CEL and Crusie to GO AWAY?
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Old 01-16-2005, 02:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essogas
I need some help folks. I have a 04 STI with a TURBO Back exhaust. There is ONE high-flow CAT still in the downpipe. (no ported wastegate) I've had this mod since early October and have never had a single problem to date until tonight. -10 Celsius outside and the car was completely warmed up. I HIT WOT in 4th or 5th gear and I felt a sudden surge or thump. I slowed down and noticed the CEL and cruise lights came on and would not go off. The whole way home the car ran completely fine. Smooth and powerful and no issues. But when I parked the car and turned it off I noticed the parking lights would not go off. I decided the only thing I could do was to disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent dead battery and ask for help here. Does anyone know what has caused this parking light, CEL, Cruise lights to come on?

I don't know what to do.


i find it almost funny.. youre asking us but its obvious by your post that you know exactly what happened. do you even have a boost guage? the cold air just makes the boost creep even more of a problem. get that waste gate ported before you do permanent damage to your engine.
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Old 01-16-2005, 02:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essogas
^^^ Maybe. I'm not sure. But I think I hit fuel cut-off. How do I fix this and get the CEL and Crusie to GO AWAY?
id bet money on it. you can fix it by getting the waste gate ported or putting a proper exhaust back on until you can afford to do it right. you can clear the cel by disconnecting the battery as you have already done.
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Old 01-16-2005, 03:41 AM   #6
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When you go hook up the battery again, your CEL will probably be out, since the ECU will have re-set. The parking lights would freak me out, though.

-Mike
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Old 01-16-2005, 11:45 AM   #7
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Okay thanks guys. Why would I not have experienced this problem sooner? I also thought if you have a high quality high-flow cat the wastegate would not need to be ported. I guess the cpold air pushed it over the edge?

Last edited by essogas; 01-16-2005 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:17 PM   #8
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Super cold air will do it. Sounds like you need an Cobb AP. There is a LWG map for that. . plus you can check & clear codes. I bet it happened in gears 4th-6th. Be careful. .
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:23 PM   #9
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^^ I t was super cold out. It never happened before at WOT except for on that cold, cold night. I'm going to invest in a boost gauge and get my turbo ported. Since the fuel cut-off is a safety measure how could you do damage to your engine? Just running high boost all the time is probably wearing the engine pre-maturely?

UNCLE Scotty> I'm a dummy. I never thought to check the parking light switch but you were right. That was the problem.
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Old 01-16-2005, 01:32 PM   #10
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We all have hit the parking light switch at one time or another.As far as fuel cut. . scared the ***** out of me.It is a safety feature but think about the violent cut off for that split second. . .then right back on.Its there when you need it. .but try not to hit it.
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Old 01-16-2005, 01:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essogas
^^ I t was super cold out. It never happened before at WOT except for on that cold, cold night. I'm going to invest in a boost gauge and get my turbo ported. Since the fuel cut-off is a safety measure how could you do damage to your engine? Just running high boost all the time is probably wearing the engine pre-maturely?

UNCLE Scotty> I'm a dummy. I never thought to check the parking light switch but you were right. That was the problem.
just because you havent hit fuel/boost cut previously doesnt mean you arent doing damage to your engine. the sti ecu is very finely tuned and does not tolerate modifications very well. you are essentially forcing the car to run higher boost than it wants to by mechanically preventing it from limiting the boost due to boost creep. its programmed to run certain fuel/timing values in direct relation to rpm/boost/etc and you are screwing with that formula, and you arent running any engine management to compensate for it.

and yes the fuel/boost cut you experienced is a safety.. but its not a safety in the sense of your rev limiter for example. in this case you can and will do damage below the threshold of the fuel/boost cut due to knock and/or screwed up timing/egt's/etc. not to mention you arent going to get ideal performance as your ecu will be fighting you by pulling timing to compensate for knock, etc. higher boost alone isnt your enemy here, its the inability to properly control that boost (spiking and creeping) and the lack of engine management to compensate for it.

just get the turbo fixed and get a boost guage so you can actually see whats happening. ideally get some engine management for optimal power/performance with your exhaust.
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Old 01-16-2005, 01:55 PM   #12
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I hear what you are saying and I agree with the wastegate and boost gauge fix but I'm not too sure about EM. From what I know now, engine management seems like adding yet another layer of potential problems because these maps are not made by subura and warranties are void. I would think the stock ECU can easily compensate for a turbo back exhaust on it's own without EM, providing boost levels are in check. The car runs better and smoother and I never experience knock with the new exhaust. But it's still good to know and I will for sure research some more on EM. I will consider Cobb AP.
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Old 01-16-2005, 02:47 PM   #13
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With the Cobb AP, if you ever bring your vehicle in for warranty, you can flash it back to the stock map(real time map). The dealership won't find out unless you've really overboosted(they can look that up).

As far as hitting boost cut, first time is scary as all out. It happened to me when it was cold(for Texas anyways), around 30. I thought something broke from the violent hit, but driving the car after was normal. I'd say find some good engine management. I got the AP, and I'm happy with it. No boost cut on my stage 2, and I've run in 20 degree weather Do some searching. My personal picks would be either AP or UTEC, depending on how much you want to mod your car and if you don't mind going a certain route(for mods).



Mika
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Old 01-16-2005, 03:36 PM   #14
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Once again, thanks for all the replies. I will start making the necessary fixes.
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Old 01-16-2005, 04:05 PM   #15
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It must be cold to hit boost cut with a catted downpipe. Down here in South Florida (50 degrees is cold) you would have no problems at all.

With my Godspeed catless downpipe the same exact thing happened to me several times. It happened exactly as you described in 4th and 5th gear. With my PDE catted downpipe it has never happened.
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Old 01-16-2005, 04:38 PM   #16
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^^ Did you have your wastegate ported? By the way, -10 to -20 celsius is quite common here.
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Old 01-16-2005, 05:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finnRex
My personal picks would be either AP or UTEC, depending on how much you want to mod your car and if you don't mind going a certain route(for mods).
Can you elaborate on that a little more? AP and UTEC are fundamentally different in that one is a piggyback, and one isn't. But how would that affect modification path?

EDIT: Are you referring to the fact that you have to put on the parts Cobb specifies in order for their maps to work right?

-Mike
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