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Old 07-30-2015, 10:36 PM   #376
Cefaln452
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^^^^^ i found the fix. mine did the exact thing.
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:58 AM   #377
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I installed the Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller and Autometer Tach Adapter. These two units control my first pump in my surge tank. This works fantastic. Noticeable difference in the temperature of my surge tank after a decent length drive. My second pump is switched by a Hobbs switch. I'm running two walbro 465 E85 pumps in my surge tank.



























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Old 08-19-2015, 07:29 AM   #378
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Well, mine was doing the same thing. It was an easy fix, being a forester I have a 12volt key source right in the hatch (the rear cigarette lighter), so I just tapped on to that. My car sat for two weeks and the battery didn't drain at all. My relay was hot before I made the changes and acted just as you described. Thanks for the research, you saved me hours and hours of troubleshooting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by STiSomeday View Post
So when I disconnect the factory wires at the connector in the car, the relay functions 100% as it should. It closes at ignition on and opens at ignition off. However my low fuel light flashes and I get P0183 fuel temperature sensor high input. I tried with just the OE power wire disconnected from the connector and with both the OE power and ground disconnected.

edit 10:40 PM - This keeps getting more weird. Now with both wires disconnected, the fuel light doesn't flash but the relay doesn't function as it should.


Update: Ok. My dad and I spent about 6 hours last night trying different wire configurations. Here's what we came up with. I'd like to hear back from some people who have done the rewire to see if your setup is consistent with what we found.

This is on a 2005 STi, so as stated before wire colors may be different on your vehicle.

We have installed the relay/fuse/added the extra ground exactly as shown by the illustration. The pin numbers at my FPC are ordered slightly differently but we confirmed with a multi meter and the factory service manual it's wired up the same way the illustration says it should be. We tried 4 different relays, 3 of the same and one high-amperage relay. All 4 did the same thing.

Here's what happening with the relay wired up per the illustration:

IG ON - relay clicks, indicating inductance in the coil had closed the relay, allowing power from the battery to flow through to the pump. Pump primes, then shuts off as it should. Car will fire up and run as it should. Coil wire at relay is getting 12.27 v at key on, engine off.

IG OFF - car shuts off, fuel pump stops running as it should. Relay does not click, coil wire is still getting 11.72 volts. Relay heats up. Fuel pump does not run even though it is still getting voltage directly from battery since the relay is still closed. This is because the pulsed ground from the FPC isn't doing anything. Over time this could burn up the relay and drain the battery. Not a problem for some but my car can sit for a week or more.

We tried adding diodes in multiple configurations and that didn't make a difference.

Since the coil wire for the relay is getting power from pin 7 of the FPC, I thought something was going on inside the FPC that was allowing voltage to continue to go to pin 7 and keep the relay closed, even after IG OFF. We temporarily jumped from the black/yellow wires going to pin 10 that sends 12v to the FPC at IG on to bypass anything that may have been happening inside the FPC. Same results. Relay closes and pump runs fine, relay stays closed after IG OFF and allows voltage through.

Using the multi meter and the service manual, we found the yellow/blue stripe connecting to yellow/green stripe wire at the 16 pin connector under the back seat goes to the fuel tank pressure sensor and a few others. Completely away from the FPC though. It's on a time-delay relay, so the wire gets power at IG ON and loses about 30 seconds after IG OFF. We decided to jump from it to the coil wire of the relay. Same results. Even after the delay times out and the wire at the connector under the seat loses power, the coil stays energized.

We then decided to try a 12v source for the relay coil that is completely separate from the fuel system. I turned the parking lights on so they would act as an IG switched 12v feed just for testing purposes. We jumped from the parking light wiring to the coil wire of the relay, and it worked as it should!

Connected to the parking lights which are switched on, at IG ON, the relay clicks when the coil wire is energized and the pump primes then shuts off. At IG OFF, the relay clicks again, opening back up. There is no longer any current flowing through the relay.

We ran a length of wire from the left side interior fuse block to the relay, and ended up using the air conditioning spot to test again, as it's an actual IG switched source. We hooked the wire up to the coil of the relay and at IG on the relay clicks and pump does what it should. At IG OFF the relay clicks again and no current passes though the relay.

We're going to find an actual ignition wire to tap in to, but now with the coil wire isolated from the fuel system everything works as it should.


Cliffnotes: IG switched 12v source for relay coil turn on can't be tied in to the fuel system at all, regardless of the wire you tie in to. If you do, the relay will close and allow current to pass through, but it will not open, and current will continue to go through relay even after removing the key/locking the vehicle.

The fix: Use a non-fuel system related IG switched 12v source for relay coil turn on.


I am really curious to see if any of you guys who have done the rewire and added the relay are having the same issue. If anyone would be willing to check with a multimeter if you're still getting voltage after IG OFF, or even by feeling your relay 10-20 minutes after shutting the car off to see if its warm, or having having someone cycle the key and hold on to the relay to see if it clicks I would love to hear back from you.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:39 PM   #379
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To clarify, the FPC stays plugged in and wires are just being spliced into the harness for a direct hard wire. When wiring up a Walbro 465lph pump, it is being grounded at the FPC. Wouldn't be more optimal to ground with a thicker wire to the chassis with at least 10 gauge? In my case, this would be a hard wiring of a secondary Walbro 465 but with my engine management, AEM series 2 triggering the relay to turn on at certain parameters. A primary Walbro 465lph pump will be controlled by the Fuelpro.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brazzl61 View Post
Hope this better helps. If not feel free to ask questions.



Also, someone asked about amperage somewhere, reason that amperage is able to flow is by creating a thick short path to ground. The amperage can travel through small gauge wire and FPC if the path is short enough. This is why I did not skip on putting that extra ground directly off the FPC.

Last edited by methaddict; 08-21-2015 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:43 PM   #380
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Doing that will disable the fuel pump duty cycles and it will run 100% all the time. The FPC controls duty cycles via the ground wire.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:54 PM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycraigsti View Post
Doing that will disable the fuel pump duty cycles and it will run 100% all the time. The FPC controls duty cycles via the ground wire.
Will the oem FPC be able to handle the higher amperage of the Walbro 465? Since this is a secondary pump it will only run when it meets the parameters I set on the AEM 2 for example a ground signal can trigger the relay to turn on at 14.7 psi or 1 bar.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:09 PM   #382
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I have about 3k on my set up with no problems (other than fixing the relay 12volt key source). Other's have far more miles on it. If you are using it as a secondary, wouldn't it just be best to let it run at 100% when you need it with a relay and your AEM triggering it?
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:36 AM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycraigsti View Post
I have about 3k on my set up with no problems (other than fixing the relay 12volt key source). Other's have far more miles on it. If you are using it as a secondary, wouldn't it just be best to let it run at 100% when you need it with a relay and your AEM triggering it?
That is exactly what I want to do. So the only wire I need to tap into the oem fpc is the #10 to pin 86 on the relay to provide 12v when key is on, ground signal from AEM output to pin 85, a fused wire (10g) from the battery to pin 30, then connect pin 87 to 12v + side of pump with 10g wire, then ground the - side of the pump to chassis with 10g ground wire. Does this sound right? Does the harness still need to be plugged into the oem fpc?

Last edited by methaddict; 08-24-2015 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:18 AM   #384
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That sounds right, but would it be easier to just mount the relay under the hood or under the dash and only run one wire from the relay to the fuel pump? I would look at running as few wires as possible to the back of the car. I don't know where your AEM is mounted, but this is just my thinking only have one wire running through the car is easier to troubleshoot should the need arise. There are plenty of key on power wires under the dash or hood to use for the 86 pin of the relay.

Whichever way you go you should be good. Just make sure that the relay shuts off after the key is off as it was discovered that the stock FPC lets the relay stay energized with the key off.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:03 PM   #385
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Quick question. The wire going to the fuel pump from pin 87. Is that a new wire or the factory wire? What gauge?

Last edited by veritasaequitas; 08-24-2015 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:50 PM   #386
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Ok sorry if this covered but I can't read through this whole thread on my phone. How do I stop the relay from draining my battery? if I let it sit for more then a week it's dead. If I run it off another 12v location that doesn't see constant voltage will I lose anything?
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:53 PM   #387
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You probably have it wired wrong. You want the ignition to turn on the relay
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:00 PM   #388
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Nate read post 373 it explains better what I pmed you this morning
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:33 PM   #389
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Wish I had a rear cig lighter but I don't have the touring model. I will have to run another wire from the fuse panel on a non fuel related ignition source. Thanks guys was wondering why my damn battery would die every winter.
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:29 PM   #390
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There have been multiple ways mentioned in this post. Which way allows you to use the FPC to maintain duty cycles and not draw current while the car is off?
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Old 07-12-2016, 08:27 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codesoccer View Post
There have been multiple ways mentioned in this post. Which way allows you to use the FPC to maintain duty cycles and not draw current while the car is off?
I have mine wired in as shown in drw..

It will not allow duty cycle operation of the pump but will improve voltage and current making it to the pump.

In future, I will bypass the stock molex plug on pump bulkhead to further improve the condition.

I set duty cycles all at 100% and use the stock FPC to fire the Bosch relay which in turn provides direct feed 12V from battery (via 4GA cable) to the pump. The ground to pump is via 10GA cable to chassis ground.

By using the stock FPC to fire the relay, I maintain any stock safety features (pump prime function, power off of pump in crash etc.). The pump only receives power during prime and when engine is running with this circuit.

I had been running this circuit for a couple years with zero issues (except I was still loosing pressure on top end (500 AWHP & WB 450LPH pump).

This year I added a JMS FuelMAX voltage amplifier to the mix and have had some issues with the pump failing. I am still troubleshooting this but believe root cause is not related to the pump powering circuit.

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Old 07-28-2016, 01:37 AM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazzl61 View Post
Hope this better helps. If not feel free to ask questions.



Also, someone asked about amperage somewhere, reason that amperage is able to flow is by creating a thick short path to ground. The amperage can travel through small gauge wire and FPC if the path is short enough. This is why I did not skip on putting that extra ground directly off the FPC.


Is this how you rewire the fpc controller without over heating the add on relay or draining your battery ?



or can you rewire it direct power from ignition to 10 pin on fpc bypassing the Oe relay fuel pump and use number 7 pin to trigger add on relay?
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:36 PM   #393
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ok this one works for me with the dw300 . hesitation around 3k on slight throttle (leaning according to my af gauge )is gone. i was running wb255 before .
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:52 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboQueef View Post
I have mine wired in as shown in drw..

It will not allow duty cycle operation of the pump but will improve voltage and current making it to the pump.

In future, I will bypass the stock molex plug on pump bulkhead to further improve the condition.

I set duty cycles all at 100% and use the stock FPC to fire the Bosch relay which in turn provides direct feed 12V from battery (via 4GA cable) to the pump. The ground to pump is via 10GA cable to chassis ground.

By using the stock FPC to fire the relay, I maintain any stock safety features (pump prime function, power off of pump in crash etc.). The pump only receives power during prime and when engine is running with this circuit.

I had been running this circuit for a couple years with zero issues (except I was still loosing pressure on top end (500 AWHP & WB 450LPH pump).

This year I added a JMS FuelMAX voltage amplifier to the mix and have had some issues with the pump failing. I am still troubleshooting this but believe root cause is not related to the pump powering circuit.

How is the jms fuel max? I have one I am about to use on my dw300.
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:38 PM   #395
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The JMS box works great. Only thing I wish would be the capability to set base voltage lower than the regulated 14.5v
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:15 PM   #396
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Did you get the boost activated? Jms
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:52 PM   #397
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Yes I did
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:26 PM   #398
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What are your settings if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:56 PM   #399
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Sure, my pressure switch is set to trigger voltage increase at 10psi boost. I am using 18v max range at 50% ramp (approx 16 volts when boost us 10psi or more)
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:02 PM   #400
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I did my rewire using relay and used the fuel pump controller ground . how hot does the fuel pump controller?. is it hot to touch or warm? I'm thinking adding a heat sink cause it get really hot .
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