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Old 03-27-2011, 10:01 PM   #1
scoobywagon06
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Ok SOO I broke 3 10mm allen drives and the last one I had was a little long. SOO long story short my 2nd and 4rth cylinder side are stripped out.

I can't remove my heads without these off can I.. I have a all my parts rdy to build heads and block this is holding me up.

I'll just buy new gears but if i can't remove my heads without those off I'm porked..

Anyone have a remedy inwanna finish my block this week and have my car running it's getting warm out
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:11 PM   #2
the suicidal eggroll
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Drill the heads off of the bolts
Buy a 1/2" drive impact grade 10mm driver and stop using the local auto parts store cheapies.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Drill the heads off of the bolts
This. Takes about 10 minutes per bolt, and then they will come right out. Even my 1/2" IR titanium impact wrench couldn't get these things off before I drilled them out.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:40 AM   #4
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My impact gun wouldn't budge them one of the 10mm was craftsman one was Mac and the one tht didn't break was snap-on

Explain what I'm drilling out is it the cam
Gear it's self.. I can get new gears and I have new cams
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:55 AM   #5
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You are drilling the bolt. Take a 21/64" bit, center it on the bolt (easy to do since the bolts already have a centering point), and drill into the bolt until the hole you are drilling is just past the base of the head of the bolt. Then hit it with the 10mm allen drive and it will come right out. Obviously the bolt will ruined, but they're cheap.

Alternatively, you can use a dremel to cut slots into the base of the bolt. You're trying to relieve the pressure on the base of the bolt head here, that is what's making them so difficult to remove. I'd go the drill route first though, as the dremel option can potentially damage the gears if you slip or cut too deep.

Last edited by RP31; 03-28-2011 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:22 AM   #6
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I'll try this route. I have new cams and stuff SOO I rly don't care if I loose em.

Curious I can't take the cams off with the gears on it and replace the plastic backer and cam gears if possible, my bro works for Subaru SOO I can Prly get stuff cheap
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:24 AM   #7
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I haven't looked at heads in a while, but I think you *could* do that. Just sounds like a lot more work. I'm not sure how you'd get through the back of the timing cover with the cam gear still in place. Snips maybe?
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobywagon06 View Post
I'll try this route. I have new cams and stuff SOO I rly don't care if I loose em.

Curious I can't take the cams off with the gears on it and replace the plastic backer and cam gears if possible, my bro works for Subaru SOO I can Prly get stuff cheap
The problem is the caps that are covered by the cam gear.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:43 AM   #9
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To get those out you need atleast 2 ft breaker bar......... impact gun just don't cut it.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:52 AM   #10
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Seems as if this is gunna be a nightmare
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:53 AM   #11
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No, really, just drill it out. Very easy.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:03 AM   #12
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Even if they come out you need to Replace these with new ones every time you remove them. Dont ask me how I know. They are $2-$3 per from the suby dealer.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobywagon06 View Post
My impact gun wouldn't budge them one of the 10mm was craftsman one was Mac and the one tht didn't break was snap-on
It doesn't matter what the manufacturer is, if it's not impact grade it's going to snap. Believe me, I've pulled a lot of heads off of these cars. The first couple took 3-4 "regular" 10mm drives to get all of the cam bolts off, the drives just kept breaking. I finally got ONE impact grade 10mm and have taken 3 engines apart (12 cam bolts) without a hiccup. All you need is an impact grade 10mm, a breaker bar, and something to keep the cam from spinning (OEM cam wrench, or the timing belt around the crank trick).

This is similar to the one I have, but the bit length is a bit shorter on mine.
http://www.amazon.com/Proto-J7441-10M-10mm-Impact-Metric/dp/B002KV6IAI

There are plenty out there that will work fine. You're not going to find any of them in your local home depot or autozone though.
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Old 04-03-2011, 07:51 PM   #14
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Got them out blocks split now being hot tanked and cranks getting balanced with new rods pistons and bearings
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:12 PM   #15
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I just now went through the same thing. I have matco tools, and with their 10mm allen and 6' of breaker bar (from my big jack) i walked the hex. Dammit! So i bought a forney 7/16" drill bit and drilled the exhaust cam sprocket bolts right out, easy as pie. I suspect the remaining bolt threads will come right out w/o the pressure of the gears. Now here is my question; its an '04 STi EJ257 and has avcs, the top (intake) sprocket bolts have holes in the center. Whats that for? Im afraid if i drill them out i wont be able to find "holy" bolts to replace them. Suppose i can order them, but what are the holes for?
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:18 PM   #16
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The holes are so the AVCS solenoids can pump oil into the AVCS cam gears to advance the intake cam timing.
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:18 AM   #17
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Ahhh, i see. Figured it was something to do with oil moving around. I havent torn into a motor with avcs, and the whole thing is pretty cool. Thanks for the answer
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:40 PM   #18
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I have a question along the same lines. I got the intake and exhaust cams of the left side of my engine but man the right ones are on there. I stripped out the hex on the cam shaft while holding to break the bolt free.... Its just a little stripped and I'm drilling the bolts out now. The cam is still fine to use with that little stripping of the hex portion correct. I don't see how it could possibly make a difference but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,
Ryan
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #19
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Wait, hex on the cam shaft? I don't think the cam shafts for these engines have a hex to hold on to. What are you working on? If you mean the hex on the cam bolt, then yes, the cam is fine... You just cannot reuse the bolt.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:40 PM   #20
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nah man v7 EJ207 has a hex built into the cam to hold it still while you torque. It's just under the valve cover and close to the pulley. I can post a pic up in a sec.


Edit: pix https://picasaweb.google.com/1051592...MLPpJzOyNOqYQ#

Last edited by Ko3n3k3; 04-13-2011 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:48 PM   #21
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What I and friend did was weld a cut a hole in a 3ft by 3in or so piece of metal the same size as the cam bolt, weld it onto the cam bolt, and then turn. This popped it right off, plus it's nice to not worry about ruining the cams by drilling (unless you're getting new cams and buckets anyway).
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ko3n3k3 View Post
nah man v7 EJ207 has a hex built into the cam to hold it still while you torque. It's just under the valve cover and close to the pulley. I can post a pic up in a sec.


Edit: pix https://picasaweb.google.com/1051592...MLPpJzOyNOqYQ#
Yes, like I thought, not working on a factory 2.5L turbo engine, which is confusing. I don't know whether the cam is still safe to use. It probably is, but don't take my word for it.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:53 PM   #23
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but the cam turns when I turn the bolt. The timing belt is off .
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Yes, like I thought, not working on a factory 2.5L turbo engine, which is confusing. I don't know whether the cam is still safe to use. It probably is, but don't take my word for it.
ya for sure. I think it is to but was just wondering. I can't see why it wouldn't be but ya. I've never drilled out a bolt but I'm planning on following the above (same size bit, the whole 9) but was wondering how idiot proof/hard this is cuz I have never done this.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:58 PM   #25
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It should be pretty difficult to screw up the cam by drilling the bolt. First, you're drilling with a drill bit that has a smaller diameter than the bolt itself. Second, you should not be drilling far enough into it to get anywhere near the cam. You only have to drill to slightly below the surface of the cam pulley, which is still a good distance away from the cam.
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