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Old 10-13-2008, 08:07 AM   #1
orndog
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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2016 slowmobile

Default Going to do timing belt, do I need all these parts?

13028AA230 Timing Belt ..............$71.96
13073AA142 Idler Pulley .............$59.96
13073AA190 Idler Pulley .............$33.48
13085AA080 Idler Pulley .............$63.24
13033AA042 Tensioner ...............$119.96
21111AA007 Water Pump ...............$75.96
21114AA051 Water Pump Gasket .........$3.06
21236AA010 Thermostat Gasket .........$2.74
809218270 Alternator Belt ...........$11.16
73323AC000 A/C Belt .................$11.16
21200AA072 Thermostat ...............$12.76

I want to do it right, but I don't want to over-spend. Of course if I have forgotten anything let me that as well. What do you guys think?
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:26 AM   #2
Opie
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I would have it all on hand just in case...but if you are only at 105k and the water pump is dry (no signs of leakage) I would leave it alone, and if the Idler Pulleys and Tensioner are not noisey (take them loose and spin the bearing in your hand to check) I would leave them alone too.
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:48 PM   #3
orndog
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hmmm, well I am ordering it all as I don't have a local dealer so not sure about sending what I don't use back. Maybe just not order the tensioner and idler pulleys?
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:56 PM   #4
durania717
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Same with the A/C and alternator belts. If they don't look bad don't replace them.
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:16 PM   #5
Matt
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Your mileage may vary, but I did all of that on my '04 TS last year. With the 35k or so miles a year I put on it, I didn't feel like chancing it. Plus I got a nice deal from my local Subaru specialist.
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:30 PM   #6
Mechie3
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Check your tensioner for a good amount of oil on the top seal. If it's leaking, get a new one. If it's not, leave it alone.
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:16 PM   #7
jaxscuby
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i concur with Opie.
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:24 PM   #8
orndog
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Seems like alot of extra dough for the just in case... what's the typical life span of the pulleys? I don't mind paying it if it's worth it.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:32 AM   #9
orndog
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Let me look at it another way if you guys will indulge me... which of these parts is easy to change at a later date, and which are easier to change while you're in there (water pump)?
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Old 10-14-2008, 11:18 AM   #10
uber-blue
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are you twin cam or single cam?
if your doing it yourself id invest in some cam pulley stoppers,they help SOOOO much,and its like
a good insurance plan.. only on a twin cam though, single cam is a non interference.
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Old 10-14-2008, 11:43 AM   #11
orndog
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I am '03 single cam, I thought they were all interference?
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:23 PM   #12
mpaone
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and 71' VW Gulf Beetle

Lightbulb

I've done a ton of timing belts on Subies and I always do the following:

Timing belt (obviously)
water pump
oil pump
tensioner (if leaking)
thermostat

and all related gaskets including crank seal.

pulleys I've seen have never been bad (even on one with 160k). Sometimes a cam seal is leaking but that will be very noticeable.

Is all that required? no. Will you know when it is? maybe... or maybe not until engine failure. I'm cautious.

-Mike.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:44 PM   #13
orndog
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Oil pump? How hard is that on a Subie? Never done that on anything other than american iron lol
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:04 PM   #14
Aspen_2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
Check your tensioner for a good amount of oil on the top seal. If it's leaking, get a new one. If it's not, leave it alone.
I'm going to disagree with this. While everything is apart, it would be a good idea to change this. I'd rather spend a little more money and have the peace of mind knowing that the tensioner is fresh.

If your belt jumps time and the tensioner causes it b/c you didn't replace it, you are going to kick yourself. Don't half-ass it. I'd also recommend replacing the front seals on the engine as well....cams/crank etc (along with the water pump).
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:30 PM   #15
orndog
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See, I didn't even consider all of those seals... what type of job are we talking here?
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:17 PM   #16
Geek Guy
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I'd also change out the oil pump while you're in there. I mean, how often do you want to mess with the front of your engine?
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:24 AM   #17
mpaone
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and 71' VW Gulf Beetle

Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by orndog View Post
Oil pump? How hard is that on a Subie? Never done that on anything other than american iron lol
Oil pump is just a few more bolts and the crank seal. Have some good liquid gasket material tho (the fuji bond is best) and make sure you follow torque specs precisely.

-Mike.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:21 PM   #18
orndog
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bumping me ol' thread
Ready to order parts finally...
Will I need special tools, or can we do this without?
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #19
Matt
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You will need the cam alignment tool--if I remember correctly. Hopefully someone will have a part number or lead you in the right direction.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:14 PM   #20
swede978
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I'm getting ready to do this on two cars and I am changing everything I can while it is apart. Spend a little more now rather a couple of grand later if the motor blows
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:03 PM   #21
steve_d
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Default

I just skimmed this and I think that you guys recommended doing all the seals too.

cam and front main seals are a MUST when doing a timing belt. while you're in there, you know.

sjd
don't ask how I know...I think 8 years on I'm still bitter about my RS blowing a cam seal a WEEK after I did the t-belt, and got the belt and everything oily. that means new belt.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:58 PM   #22
SacksLax
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Default

Ok I have a bugeye WRX, and I'm having this done at ~90k with an 08 STi oil pump, and the water pump. Should I er' on the side of caution with the 257 STi timing belt? Or is this totally un-needed? Its stage 2 so slightly modded.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:23 AM   #23
orndog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt View Post
You will need the cam alignment tool--if I remember correctly. Hopefully someone will have a part number or lead you in the right direction.
So cam alignment tool IS NEEDED? Bummer, what does that run?
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:27 AM   #24
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The cam tool is like $60 from Cobb Tuning if they still have one.

I wouldn't do the pullies or the pumps if they aren't leaking. Definately do the tensioner though.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:05 AM   #25
orndog
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The folks at CarterSubaru.com say I won't need that tool, so now I am confused. Has anybody done it with or without said tool? I got a quote for $1500 to have it all done at a dealership, no way possible I can afford that.
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