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Old 05-13-2018, 01:21 PM   #1
Altephor
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Default Iron X and the car wash.

I have a white car so I get a ton of the orange flecks. I want to Iron X it but I don't have a hose to rinse it off afterwards.


Was considering trying it with a car wash, I use the touchless wash. Could I just spray down the car with Iron X and then run it through the car wash to get it off? Or would there be some issue?
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:48 AM   #2
HCAutoDetail
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You need a THOROUGH rinse after using IronX. Just running through a touchless car wash tunnel would not be enough. Don't you have access to a self wash type of car wash? With a pressure washer attached to the wall?
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:04 PM   #3
vapore0n
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I was thinking about this too. I got a bottle to use and was looking for instructions. Do I wash car first, after, in between, etc.
Quote:
From the Carpro Website:

Directions:

A.-Use outside or with sufficient ventilation.

B.-Use latex or Nitrile gloves, and face protection.

C.-If there is an inordinate amount of tree sap, tar, other organic material, wax, or sealants on the vehicle I recommend you strip them first with TarX so Iron X can attack the ferrous particles without any interference. This is not required but is how I like to do it for best results.

D.-For best results apply to a mostly dry surface. A few drops of water is ok.

1.-Shake the bottle.

2.-You can cover the surface with Iron X by spraying it everywhere but that can be wasteful. I recommend that you spray as needed and spread it with a small sponge or applicator to cover the entire surface. You may also consider using an atomizer type spray bottle or HVLP gun. In any case evenly cover the surfaces you wish to decontaminate. The product is strong so you don't have to be wasteful. Just make sure it contacts the entire surface.

3.-Allow the product to dwell for 5 minutes in the shade. Do not allow it to dry in the sun. On light colored paints you will see the product dissolving ferrous particles as it turns color. On darker colored paints everything is happening in exactly the same way. It's simply more difficult for you to view the color changing affect. I have read people saying the product works better on lighter colored cars but that is illogical and is not the case. It works the same regardless of car color.

4.-After allowing to dwell take a damp (not soaked) grout or other paint safe sponge (or other media if you prefer) and agitate the surface.

5.-Thoroughly rinse the surface.

Don't forget to rinse your media out also. I like to have a dedicated Iron X sponge but that isn't necessary.
I think my plan of attack will be, wash car, dry with leaf blower, spray IronX, agitate areas with damp wash mitt, rinse and rewash.
Damn, thats a lot of steps Hopefully I wont have to clay after that too.
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Old 05-14-2018, 02:23 PM   #4
Twisty mountain road
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Google “aggressive car wash”. There is a tutorial to wash and decontaminate in less steps from auto geek. It works well. Whenever I use a product like iron x, that is how I do it because I don’t want to wash, Decon, wash, dry, detail spray/clay, rinse again.

You will need to wax after you are done, as iron x will strip all sealants and waxes that are on your car
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:11 PM   #5
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Dont forget to close the garage door when you apply IronX. Wouldn't want the delicious smells to dissipate too quick and thus not remove rust specks from your car!
/sarcasm
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:20 PM   #6
Altephor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCAutoDetail View Post
You need a THOROUGH rinse after using IronX. Just running through a touchless car wash tunnel would not be enough. Don't you have access to a self wash type of car wash? With a pressure washer attached to the wall?



Unfortunately I do not.


Alright, guess I'll skip the Iron X and stick with getting it detailed or claybarring.



Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:12 PM   #7
HCAutoDetail
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Food for thought to some of the above postings.

We NEVER worry with drying the car in between steps. Wash first, apply IronX to affected areas (not necessarily the whole car), rinse thoroughly, clay, rinse ... then dry. A little extra water doesn't deter the effectiveness of IronX or clay. Do it all while the cars wet.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:26 PM   #8
get_schwifty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vapore0n View Post
I was thinking about this too. I got a bottle to use and was looking for instructions. Do I wash car first, after, in between, etc.


I think my plan of attack will be, wash car, dry with leaf blower, spray IronX, agitate areas with damp wash mitt, rinse and rewash.
Damn, thats a lot of steps Hopefully I wont have to clay after that too.

Does the car currently have a sealant or coating applied?

I'll generally go: wash with something to diminish the existing polymer sealant, decon, rinse for a long time, clay, polish, polymer. Personally, I prefer the decon stage when the car is slightly wet, and I like to massage the decontaminant spray into the paint when wearing a nitrile glove (however, I've read accounts saying that applying it when dry can be more effective - but applying it to a slightly wet car has given me the results I was aiming for in my personal situation).
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:38 PM   #9
MtnXfreeride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCAutoDetail View Post
Food for thought to some of the above postings.

We NEVER worry with drying the car in between steps. Wash first, apply IronX to affected areas (not necessarily the whole car), rinse thoroughly, clay, rinse ... then dry. A little extra water doesn't deter the effectiveness of IronX or clay. Do it all while the cars wet.



Seems like you should claybar first since itll knock off some of the contaminants so you know where to focus iron X .. clay bar does remove some of the iron flecks.


Wash with mitt, Rinse, foam canon, clay over the foam, rinse, quick low effort dry, iron X, rinse, dry. Polish, quick wash (foam, wait a few mins, rinse), dry, wax/seal. ... this crap takes too long haha
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:40 PM   #10
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Someone is going to make a good chunk of money when they sell a foam version of ironX.. it needs more sticking to the paint power.
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Old 05-18-2018, 01:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
Seems like you should claybar first since itll knock off some of the contaminants so you know where to focus iron X .. clay bar does remove some of the iron flecks.


Wash with mitt, Rinse, foam canon, clay over the foam, rinse, quick low effort dry, iron X, rinse, dry. Polish, quick wash (foam, wait a few mins, rinse), dry, wax/seal. ... this crap takes too long haha
The proper order would be to Iron-X first, then follow up with a clay, to get the non-iron contaminants the Iron-X doesn't effect. Plus it makes claying much easier.

Here is a good thread to read:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ro-iron-x.html
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Old 05-18-2018, 01:08 PM   #12
MtnXfreeride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
The proper order would be to Iron-X first, then follow up with a clay, to get the non-iron contaminants the Iron-X doesn't effect. Plus it makes claying much easier.

Here is a good thread to read:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ro-iron-x.html

Thanks.


I am interested in using my foam cannon to make claybar faster my next full cleaning.. I think I can spray a side and have adequate lubrication to protect the paint and glide a claybar. Saves a lot of time in spraying clay lube.
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:18 PM   #13
Wade-O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
I am interested in using my foam cannon to make claybar faster my next full cleaning.. I think I can spray a side and have adequate lubrication to protect the paint and glide a claybar. Saves a lot of time in spraying clay lube.
A handheld pump sprayer loaded with detailing spray (or ONR in clay lube ratio) is pretty awesome for this, among other things.
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:31 PM   #14
Cobrakai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
Thanks.


I am interested in using my foam cannon to make claybar faster my next full cleaning.. I think I can spray a side and have adequate lubrication to protect the paint and glide a claybar. Saves a lot of time in spraying clay lube.
Save time and money, use the left over suds from your car wash soap.

Assuming you're using two buckets, dunk mitt into clean bucket and get some foam, run the mitt across the panel until you're happy with the amount of foam/soapy water.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:28 AM   #15
MtnXfreeride
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soooo many steps for a proper wash/ironX/polish/seal....


Rinse w/Pressure
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Mitt Wash 2 buckets
Rinse w/pressure
Quick Blow Dry w/leaf blower
IronX
Wheel Cleaner
Sponge Iron X in after 5 mins
Rinse w/pressure
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Claybar over soap
Quick Mitt Wash
Rinse w/pressure
Blow Dry
Towel Dry
Polish with DA
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Quick Mitt Wash
Rinse w/pressure
Soak low pressure w/hose no attachment
Blow Dry
Towel Dry
Apply Sealant
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:28 PM   #16
Cobrakai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
soooo many steps for a proper wash/ironX/polish/seal....


Rinse w/Pressure
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Mitt Wash 2 buckets
Rinse w/pressure
Quick Blow Dry w/leaf blower
IronX
Wheel Cleaner
Sponge Iron X in after 5 mins
Rinse w/pressure
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Claybar over soap
Quick Mitt Wash
Rinse w/pressure
Blow Dry
Towel Dry
Polish with DA
Foam Cannon Car w/Stripper Soap
Quick Mitt Wash
Rinse w/pressure
Soak low pressure w/hose no attachment
Blow Dry
Towel Dry
Apply Sealant
You're making a mountain out of a mole hill.
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Old 06-29-2018, 01:08 PM   #17
Wade-O
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Check the "Aggressive Wash" thread on Autogeek forums. You can rearrange and/or combine several of these steps to eliminate some of the excessive wash/rinse/dry in between steps.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:25 PM   #18
DieselDorf
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I have white as well.
Literally buy a 10$ pack of clay bars off Amazon and as long as you have a bucket and some water (I'm assuming you aren't in a third word country) then you are good to go.

Clay bar worked great for my pearl white, I have a ton of little rust flecks from the snow plows and such.
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:32 PM   #19
Ernest
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Get a silver car and don't look that closely. It works believe me.
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Old 07-04-2018, 08:21 PM   #20
MtnXfreeride
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I did the ironx first to a dry car today (6 years old never ironx'd)... then foam cannoned right over and started wash mitting. Saved some time but i think the ironx started drying before it was done working.. having a wet car means more working time at the cost of it dripping off easier. I need some ironX foam.

Purplelicious:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VDAZtWA7QCExRMNDA
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:54 PM   #21
Wade-O
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I did too, on Monday, but it worked fine for me. The smell reminded me of when i was a kid and my mom took me with her to the salon to get a permanent.
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