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Old 11-09-2014, 11:19 PM   #1
T-37
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 175624
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Wichita, KS
Vehicle:
0304 WRX WRX
SY WRB

Default Install: 2015 STi 13:1 steering rack into a GD

If I miss something, or if you have info about 05-07 cars to add to this write up, let me know and I will edit this post, thanks!

This install will cover 02-04 cars. It should go into the 05-07 cars in a similar fashion as well, but those cars use a different style of mount. (I'm sure someone can chime in to clear up the differences.) The rack is a direct swap into the GR chassis.

If you're up for reading a lot, almost any info you could ask for about the 2015 STi steering rack is in this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2601789

THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM USES HIGH PRESSURE ATF FLUID, AND ANY LEAKS CAN QUICKLY BECOME FIRES UNDER A HOT ENGINE BAY. ALWAYS VERIFY FITMENT AND SEAL OF COMPONENTS BEFORE PROCEEDING. THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM USES O-RING FITTINGS THAT CAN BE PRONE TO FAILURE, DUE TO POOR FITMENT OF VARIOUS AFTERMARKET AN FITTINGS. IF USING NON-FACTORY POWER STEERING HOSES, PLEASE EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION, AND VERIFY THAT YOUR AN ADAPTER FITTINGS ALLOW FOR A PROPER O-RING SEAL, AND DO NOT BOTTOM OUT AGAINST THE STEERING RACK'S HARD LINES.

THIS MODIFICATION WILL REQUIRE A LOT OF CUTTING, GRINDING, AND TRIMMING. ALWAYS USE APPROPRIATE SAFETY MEASURES TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM INJURY. SAFETY GLASSES ARE OBVIOUSLY A MINIMUM WHEN YOU'RE GRINDING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF A CAR.

One other thing, this took me a few weeknights and a couple weekends to get it all sorted out. It's not something I would have attempted if it were my only car just because of all of the unknowns. It's also nice to be able to take your time and do things safely.

Parts List:
1x 2015 STi Steering Rack http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-263...ring-rack.aspx
1x M10x1.25x50mm Bolt (Grade 10.9)
1x M10x1.25x60mm Bolt (Grade 10.9)
2x M10 locking washers
2x M10 or 3/8" ID thick fender washers.
1x spacer block (I'll go into more detail on this later) EDIT: See post #2
New bottle of Dexron III ATF (Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is good)

Parts for steering lines (this may not be needed for the 05-07 models, but it was definitely necessary for my 04, the factory lines would thread onto the rack, but were pointed directly at and resting against the downpipe)
For the lines, I followed this write up http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t185...ing-lines.html but this part was missing: Earl's 915106ERL DO NOT USE 491970 Fragola 14mmX1.5 O-ring adapter. Use Earl's 9894DBHERL instead.

Scargod put together a Google Doc that has a comprehensive list of AN fittings that SHOULD work for the Subaru power steering system. This is not a bible, or an endorsement of these fittings. It is a living document, that in time should pretty accurately reflect what will probably work, and what definitely won't. Always use use your best judgement and do your own due diligence to ensure you have a leak free installation. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...&postcount=430

Optional upgrade parts.
GD STi steering linkage
Steering rack bushings - need driver's side '15 and passenger side GD.

Procedure, read and understand everything that is involved before beginning:

1. Safely get the car in the air and on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Lock the steering wheel in the center position (I hooked a bungee cord through the wheel to the bottom of the seat.)

2. Remove the front undertray/plastic, U-shaped subframe, center jack plate, and front sway bar.

3. Disconnect the steering linkage (between the column and the rack) from the steering rack and disconnect the steering lines from the rack and allow fluid to drain into a container (you don't want to be lying in ATF while doing the rest of this work)

4. Unbolt the steering rack and tie rod ends and remove the assembly.



5. (Attempt to) fit 2015 steering rack and notice 2 things, the driver's side of the rack won't fit through the hole in the crossmember, and the 2015 rack has 2 flanges rather than a bracket on the driver's side, and one of the flanges is offset. This is where a spacer is required.

6. Fabricate, or find someone to fabricate a spacer. It will fit between the offset flange of the steering rack and the subframe. it needs to be ~.39" thick, the diameter needs to be the same as or greater than the diameter of the bushings on the '15 rack, it will also need a clearance hole for an M10 bolt in the center. I used some scrap aluminum for the spacer material. EDIT: See post #2.

7. Mark on the subframe the areas that need trimmed by test fitting the rack.



8. Open up the hole in the subframe.



9. Test fit the rack, and make sure it fits, but don't install it yet.

10. Measure center to center from the outer tie-rods on your factory rack, and write that number down. Measure the same thing on the '15 rack and be amazed at how much you will have to trim.

11. Trim inner and outer tie rods. I'm sorry I don't have hard numbers for how much you will need to cut. I cut my outers down so that there is just enough room to fit a wrench on them, and I cut the inners so that I could thread the outers all the way to the lock nut. This was enough to get the wheels to be visibly slightly toed in. Don't use this as a rule, this worked for me, but it may not work the same for you. Measure for yourself and take your time not to cut too much.

Also, I have to think that wagons (and GCs) are going to have to do something different. There's just barely enough of the tie rods left for the sedan, so with the narrower track it just won't happen without some shorter tie rods. I'm sure something exists, but I'm not aware of it (that's not saying much.)



12. Now we can bolt in the new rack, make sure to feed the driver's side in first and connect the steering linkage before bolting it in. MAKE SURE to use the two large flat/fender washers and 2 locking washers with the two M10 bolts. It should go Bolt > Lock washer > large flat/fender washer > steering rack > spacer (on one side) > subframe.



Your large washers should look like this, if they don't, go find some that do. If you don't use big flat washers the sleeves can pull out of the bushings, allowing the entire steering rack to drop down.



Use the D-shaped GD rack bushing on the passenger side with the factory bracket.



13. Reconnect the tie rod ends, and reinstall the sway bar, jack plate, u-shaped subframe, and undertray.

14. Remove the old line from the power steering pump to the rack.

15. Install the AN fittings and line from the pump to the rack.




16. Remove the lower clamp from the factory return line and remove the hardline that connects to the rack outlet.

17. install the M16x1.5 to 6an male > 6AN female to female > 6an male to barb fitting to the return line outlet of the rack, and push the return hose onto the barb fitting and clamp it.



18. Fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the system by turning the wheel back and forth with the wheels in the air. Start the car and repeat until you no longer see bubbles/foam in the tank.

19. Get the car back on the ground and get it aligned!

Enjoy!

Last edited by T-37; 07-29-2020 at 03:00 PM.
T-37 is offline   Reply With Quote
 

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