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Old 02-23-2017, 11:33 PM   #251
jkenna860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
Update on my rack install. I run the 15 rack with my old 04 STI pump (over 100k miles on it) this week-end with 315 brand new A7 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1euTH2hvJs. I have a 2 cheap oil cooler stacked on top of each other (https://www.amazon.ca/Derale-13212-P...ing+oil+cooler and everything works just fine on tarmac. Next test would be to test the same setup, but on concrete. STI pump is holding fine. That was with 1 driver on the car, 2 drivers might be a different story in autocross event.

You are THE MAN!!! Sweet autox sesh. Thank you so much for this informational thread. A lot of questions were answered for me today lol. Sweet car btw, i get goosebumps hearing that EWG flutter!

-Jon
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:40 AM   #252
kenliu84
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that is a fast course!

how was the rack compared to the original one from an autocross perspective?
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:56 AM   #253
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Hopefully it's a simple question, if I already have AN lines made for the stock GD rack, will they work with the 2015+ rack?


I'm doing lines now but the rack later over the summer so wanted to be prepared.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:15 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatTurboLag? View Post
Hopefully it's a simple question, if I already have AN lines made for the stock GD rack, will they work with the 2015+ rack?


I'm doing lines now but the rack later over the summer so wanted to be prepared.
Yes, they should work just fine. The main issue with the lines is that the large/small hardlines switched positions on the rack, so the stock hardline ends of the GD hoses interfered with one another and the downpipe.

I have meant to update the thread for a long time to include tench_wrx's info about installing the GR PS pump into the GD. I'm going to be doing this myself this week, as my pump has been sounding more and more labored at lower speeds. I still have a stock location turbo, so we'll have to see how fitment is with my Perrin inlet.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:42 AM   #255
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nice, that'd be nice. Same with my 2006 PS pump and I also have a Perrin Inlet.

Was it in this thread? where tench_wrx installed a GR pump in a GD?
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Old 03-15-2017, 12:54 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
nice, that'd be nice. Same with my 2006 PS pump and I also have a Perrin Inlet.

Was it in this thread? where tench_wrx installed a GR pump in a GD?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by tenchi_wrx View Post
I am in the process of swapping the 15 STi rack into my 03 wrx, and also upgrading the 08+ STi power steering pump. I have been talking to T-37 as well, since he's local.

Some information for the 08+ STi power steering pump (P/N: 34430FG040), you won't be able to fit it into the 03 wrx bracket, but the good news is that the 04+ wrx/sti bracket will work.

NOTE: For 02-03 wrx that want to use the belt cover, you will need to order a belt cover bracket and bolt for the 08+ sti pump. Not sure about 04+ wrx/sti one.
Belt Cover Bracket: P/N 34446AG020
Bolt: P/N 010406200

Here are the pictures between 02-03 wrx and 04+ wrx/sti bracket:




08+ STi power steering pump installed on the 04+ wrx/sti bracket:




Pump installed on the car (my car has rotated setup, might be an issue with stock location turbo with the turbo inlet in the way):






I haven't completely finish the rack yet, but hope this will help someone who's planning to update to newer 08+ sti power steering pump into older 02-03 model and as well for 04+ wrx/sti.

I also found some inserts online that let me able to use my wrx inner tide rods, will post some information soon.
I got mine partly installed yesterday. The braided line is going to be a problem. If you look at his last picture, he has it clocked upwards and aft. That's in the space that the turbo inlet occupies, so it's either going to have to go straight aft in tight quarters with the upper radiator hose and intake manifold, or run forward and loop around.
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:04 PM   #257
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Before anyone copies the above photo, there are situations where Teflon tape is not appropriate - this is one of them. Using plumbers tape can compromise the sealing on this type of fitting.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:45 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Yes



I got mine partly installed yesterday. The braided line is going to be a problem. If you look at his last picture, he has it clocked upwards and aft. That's in the space that the turbo inlet occupies, so it's either going to have to go straight aft in tight quarters with the upper radiator hose and intake manifold, or run forward and loop around.
I remember now because of the braided line and inlet issue. and I believe I looked into it and the 2015 STi pump is the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Before anyone copies the above photo, there are situations where Teflon tape is not appropriate - this is one of them. Using plumbers tape can compromise the sealing on this type of fitting.
even if the fitting is of different material compared to what it's screwed into?
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:49 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Yes, they should work just fine. The main issue with the lines is that the large/small hardlines switched positions on the rack, so the stock hardline ends of the GD hoses interfered with one another and the downpipe.

I have meant to update the thread for a long time to include tench_wrx's info about installing the GR PS pump into the GD. I'm going to be doing this myself this week, as my pump has been sounding more and more labored at lower speeds. I still have a stock location turbo, so we'll have to see how fitment is with my Perrin inlet.
So they just need to be flip flopped when switching over?
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:35 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatTurboLag? View Post
So they just need to be flip flopped when switching over?
Yep. The threads are still the same, and the high pressure/low pressure lines have 2 different sized fittings. It should be as simple as disconnect/reconnect if you're using braided lines.

With the stock lines it's more difficult because the ends of the lines are solid.


Last edited by T-37; 06-05-2020 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:24 AM   #261
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Hello,

I've been reading this forum for quite a while, so I've thought I can finally bring my contribution, maybe it would help somehow.
Here's my version of install of the 2015 rack on an EDM 2002 Wagon.
http://www.subarufanclub.ro/forum/in...96173#msg96173
If questions arise, I would be more than happy to answer them. In english, of course...

Best regards,
Daniel
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:27 AM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Before anyone copies the above photo, there are situations where Teflon tape is not appropriate - this is one of them. Using plumbers tape can compromise the sealing on this type of fitting.
That's correct, don't use teflon tape, the picture I took was just for a quick snapshot. I took the teflon tape off during the final installation and actually rotated the connection L line toward the front. You can actually try to install the your stock location turbo inlet, might be aftermarket inlet will fit better than stock hard inlet.

Here are some pictures of my final installation:




I also took a picture of my friend 04 sti. There seem to be a small dent at the elbow of the stock inlet that might clear power steering connection line.

Last edited by tenchi_wrx; 04-21-2017 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:35 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
even if the fitting is of different material compared to what it's screwed into?
Correct - using Teflon tape on JIC fittings is a bigger sin than mismatching the materials of the fittings.

The way I would have done it is:

- Use a steel adapter fitting (as the adapter fitting to pump interface is going to be removed far less than the line to adapter fitting connection).
- Clean mating surfaces
- Lightly oil mating surfaces with ATF
- Screw line to adapter fitting finger tight
- Turn line fitting 90 degrees further with a tool

Steel fittings have a higher torque spec., but for obvious reasons, you always use the torque spec. of the weaker fitting. Finger-tight + 90 degrees works for ALL Aluminum JIC (i.e. 37-deg, AN, etc.) fittings.
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:09 PM   #264
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thanks^
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:02 PM   #265
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Minor update. 2 seasons ago, I pulled the OEM bushings out of the 2015 rack and installed some homemade solid bushings. Since then I'd developed a popping noise, when changing directions that coincided with wheel bearing failures. But after the bearings were replaced the noise persisted, so I did some more digging.

I found 2 problems:
1) my custom solid bushing were about .020" undersized, leaving a fair amount of side to side play (likely the problem)

2) the raised boss on the top side of the rack was contacting the subframe (also a problem).



I remedied both of these problems by reinstalling the bushings wet with some urethane, and using washers on the top side to space everything back down. There are no noises now.

I don't remember for sure if I had this popping noise before when I just had the OEM bushings in the '15 rack. BUT for anyone who has that noise, take a look into it, you may have to shim the rack down.

Last edited by T-37; 06-05-2020 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:02 PM   #266
redwards11
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Anyone else having issues with the Russell 640820 rack adapter leaking on the high pres side? Tried taking it a bit tighter and brought the leak to a slow drip. I'll try the Earls adapter and swap them out.

Update: switched to the Earls fitting, sealed up first shot.

I also had to cut more out of my 04 WRX subframe than pictured.

Awesome write up,
I used to hate the steering in the WRX, especially after DD'ing my Fiesta ST. Car should've came like this!!

Last edited by redwards11; 08-29-2017 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:36 PM   #267
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Months later after it has been sent, I've found that someone wanted more details on the install I've made on my 2002 EDM wagon, by dropping me a Personal Message on the forum.
Dunno why, but this forum does not send me any PM notifications. A bit of help on this one maybe?

Since this might be of help to others, I will answer the nasioc buddy* here.

Quote:
..... Definitely still interested! It was mostly a general curiosity of how you went about it and more in particular just wondering how you proceeded with the tie rods, whether you shaved them down or used an adapter to match both ends as mentioned in the nasioc thread. There isnít much in regard to discussion about wagons there and I heard tie rod sizes are different vs sedans?
Yes, the track of the wagon is 20mm shorter, hence the different length in tie rods compared to the sedan. This information was already available.

For the tie rods I've found an useful piece of information here, on nasioc, regarding the parts from an older Subaru model, Leone or something.
Here...
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...&postcount=406

The solution was only suggested, never tried by the looks of things. Seems I was the first to give it a go and tell about. So I've bought the parts.
Codes: 731320010, 731320000. They are M14x1.5, no adaptors required!!!

And this is how they look like compared to the outer rods that came with the 2015+ rack:
https://www.subarufanclub.ro/forum/i....html#msg96173

The only intervention was to shorten the inner rods, the ones that came on the new rack by 5mm. I would say that was unnecessary, but I wouldn't bet on it. 3mm shaved would be the sweet spot for the wagon I guess, and no cutting for the sedan.

Photo here: http://i.imgur.com/O7cdECR.jpg
"Scurtat 5mm" is romanian for "shortened by 5mm".

No adapters, no exagerated cutting, everything perfectly safe (IMO at least)!

This was the first catch for a succesful adaptation.
The second one consists in the PS lines, the return line to be exact. The HP line of the new rack was ok, no modifications needed for that one, a bit of bending at the most, can't recall exactly.
So I've combined the line from the new rack with part of the LP line of the old one. Worked like a charm, photo here:

http://i.imgur.com/eBhi2Nj.jpg

Yellow - 2002 part.
Red - 2015 part.

A few simple, common sense and obvious adaptations once under the car or with the parts under one's nose are needed. Photos at the link above, nothing special. Some bracket cutting, other bracket relocation. The purpose being to have the lines as robust and neatly fixed as possible, since the PS circuit is prone to vibration.

Conclusion and ingredients:
2015 steering rack + 2015 inner rods + Subaru Leone outer tie rods.
The turned spacer;
One OEM longer bolt (for +2004 models I guess), for driver side rack fixation on the frame (no spacer), PN 901000181.
One even longer bolt from the bolt store (for the spacer fixation) size M10x60mm, 1.25mm pitch, high hardness (went with 10.9 myself).
Everything else for the PS circuit: already on the car, haven't touched it.
Cutting tools for frame widening of course, paint, steering fluid, new safety pins for the rod nuts, beer, loads of patience and so on.

I've started thinking this will be a tough mod, with poor chance of succes. It went smooth, 2 days working time (with thinking things through and experimenting), the result being that the steering now is close to perfection. "Close" because it lacks a bit more caster, but this is a different story.

Disclaimers:
1) I think that the USDM steering lines are a bit different in the area where the ones on the steering rack get threaded to the ones that climb inside the engine bay. Saw some photos somewhere that left me this impression. Up to you to further check, I might be talking nonsense.
2) all sizes are in mm. Sorry.
3) bad english above. Do your best in understanding, I did mine in writing

*Nasioc buddy with the PM, hope this answers your questions
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:10 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanSSS View Post
For the tie rods I've found an useful piece of information here, on nasioc, regarding the parts from an older Subaru model, Leone or something.
Here...
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...&postcount=406

The solution was only suggested, never tried by the looks of things. Seems I was the first to give it a go and tell about. So I've bought the parts.
Codes: 731320010, 731320000. They are M14x1.5, no adaptors required!!!
I'm happy that suggestion worked out for you! Thank you for following through and testing it for the rest of us!
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:11 PM   #269
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Oh, so it's you that I must thank. Ok, here goes: thank you! That helped a lot!!!
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Old 10-20-2017, 11:33 PM   #270
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crap
looks like i ordered the wrong thing

https://i.imgur.com/oWKBr89.jpg
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:56 PM   #271
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Can you some how repost these pics?

Last edited by FATgc8; 11-07-2017 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:52 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FATgc8 View Post
Can you some how repost these pics?
Done with a few extras
Could you please edit your post (#271) and remove the photo portions from the original quote? It clutters up the thread a bit.

Last edited by JarHarms; 11-06-2017 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:04 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Done with a few extras
Could you please edit your post (#271) and remove the photo portions from the original quote? It clutters up the thread a bit.
Done, thank you very much!!!!
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:54 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwards11 View Post
Anyone else having issues with the Russell 640820 rack adapter leaking on the high pres side? Tried taking it a bit tighter and brought the leak to a slow drip. I'll try the Earls adapter and swap them out.

Update: switched to the Earls fitting, sealed up first shot.
I haven't gotten far enough for mine to leak yet, but did notice an issue with the Russell adapters as I was assembling. At least on my 2016 rack, the tube nuts are very short, so the hex of the tube nut bottoms out against the body of the adapter before the o-ring is clamped. I can actually swivel the joint and move it up and down relative to the end of the tube with it fully tightened. It would absolutely leak if I were to put pressure to it.

Rather than try a different fitting, I'm going to measure the rack's tube nuts and mill down the adapters to match. It seems like length is the only issue. I'll report back how it works.
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Old 12-21-2017, 08:47 PM   #275
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Great write-up, but a quick couple of notes on the lock washers...

Split washers don't hold up to vibration in the long term. Loctite or nordlock washers would be better solutions.

I'm sure someone will argue otherwise with some anecdotal story, but there's a reason car manufacturers haven't used split washers in steering racks the last 40+ years.

Last edited by thejameshimself; 12-21-2017 at 08:49 PM. Reason: grammar
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