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Old 06-09-2020, 10:56 AM   #376
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Isn't the turbo inlet in the way?
No. Look at these pics in a turbo inlet install.
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Old 06-12-2020, 10:38 PM   #377
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Sooooooo.... I'm in the middle of this right now on my '02 2.5RS. I just discovered something that may work as good, if not better than chopping or using your old outer tie rods.

Has anyone looked at the length of the BRZ outer tie rods? They have a weird curve to them like the EA81 ones do, but they also look shorter. There HAS to be a better way to do this than either using cheap EA81 tie rod ends, cutting the STI ones, or putting old a$$ inner tie rods on the car.

Now I just need someone to measure the BRZ outer tie rods to see if they are indeed shorter.
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:28 PM   #378
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Originally Posted by DDMan View Post
Sooooooo.... I'm in the middle of this right now on my '02 2.5RS. I just discovered something that may work as good, if not better than chopping or using your old outer tie rods.

Has anyone looked at the length of the BRZ outer tie rods? They have a weird curve to them like the EA81 ones do, but they also look shorter. There HAS to be a better way to do this than either using cheap EA81 tie rod ends, cutting the STI ones, or putting old a$$ inner tie rods on the car.

Now I just need someone to measure the BRZ outer tie rods to see if they are indeed shorter.


Iím getting threaded adapters made. 10 sets are coming to me. They convert the RS inner tie rods to the STi rack size. So youíll use the shorter inner tie rod and avoid all the hacking. I think Iíve got about a week of lead time here. PM me if you are interested. Look at Unabombers thread on this topic. Thatís where I got the idea.
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:55 PM   #379
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Originally Posted by DDMan View Post
Sooooooo.... I'm in the middle of this right now on my '02 2.5RS. I just discovered something that may work as good, if not better than chopping or using your old outer tie rods.

Has anyone looked at the length of the BRZ outer tie rods? They have a weird curve to them like the EA81 ones do, but they also look shorter. There HAS to be a better way to do this than either using cheap EA81 tie rod ends, cutting the STI ones, or putting old a$$ inner tie rods on the car.

Now I just need someone to measure the BRZ outer tie rods to see if they are indeed shorter.
Not only shorter but also if the threads match the ITRs of the WRX's. Most likely they will but also something else to confirm.

I'm with you on not hacking anything up. My plan (for now) is to switch to sedan control arms so I don't need to source any other part.
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Old 06-13-2020, 08:49 PM   #380
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Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Iím getting threaded adapters made. 10 sets are coming to me. They convert the RS inner tie rods to the STi rack size. So youíll use the shorter inner tie rod and avoid all the hacking. I think Iíve got about a week of lead time here. PM me if you are interested. Look at Unabombers thread on this topic. Thatís where I got the idea.
Sorry, to replace the inner tie rods would require removing the boots from the rack (which you need a special tool to put back on), plus I'd be using OLD tie rods and tie rod ends (with ball joints).

Trying to put NEW stuff in so I don't have to think about it for another 10+ years.

I just ended up cutting the new inner tie rods, and will cut the outer tie rods also to make them both fit.

I also have a set of the stainless adapters which were previously mentioned in this thread, so I could have swapped the RS tie rods onto the STI rack, but after seeing what it would have taken, I decided to go the cutting route.
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Old 06-13-2020, 09:08 PM   #381
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Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Not only shorter but also if the threads match the ITRs of the WRX's. Most likely they will but also something else to confirm.



I'm with you on not hacking anything up. My plan (for now) is to switch to sedan control arms so I don't need to source any other part.


I got all new parts. Iím using brand new RS inner tie rods (because I have a wagon) and that way it fits my aluminum GC LCAís. The outers can be from a lot of cars because they were always the same length. So yeah.. I kind of forget to mention Iíve got a wagon when I chime in a lot of times.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:48 PM   #382
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So I just ordered a rack and and sti LCAs to put on my 05 wagon. Does anyone know any exact numbers for how much the rack needs to be trimmed? My concern is that I won't be able to measure my old rack as it's for a wagon and ill be switching to sedan track.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:50 PM   #383
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So I just ordered a rack and and sti LCAs to put on my 05 wagon. Does anyone know any exact numbers for how much the rack needs to be trimmed? My concern is that I won't be able to measure my old rack as it's for a wagon and ill be switching to sedan track.
Did you read the first few posts or pages in here? I'm pretty it was this thread.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:07 PM   #384
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Did you read the first few posts or pages in here? I'm pretty it was this thread.
I skipped around a bit. must have missed it. thanks!
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:09 PM   #385
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I never posted a length. Honestly I would use the threaded adapters if I did it over again.

There are some variables (track change with ride height is a big one), and this is just what worked on my car. Not only that, it's tough to actually measure a rack from end to end with a measuring tape and call it an accurate dimension there was a lot of guess on the low side and check fit to get it there.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:44 PM   #386
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11. Trim inner and outer tie rods. I'm sorry I don't have hard numbers for how much you will need to cut. I cut my outers down so that there is just enough room to fit a wrench on them, and I cut the inners so that I could thread the outers all the way to the lock nut. This was enough to get the wheels to be visibly slightly toed in. Don't use this as a rule, this worked for me, but it may not work the same for you. Measure for yourself and take your time not to cut too much.
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Originally Posted by Underdog_LGT View Post
Thought about a similar solution for the BP/BL Legacy but our inner tie rod stub threads are M18x1.5 so there would be very little room for an insert to adapt to the M20x1.5 female thread on the '15 STI rack. That being said, trimming 3-4 threads off the M14 thread of the '15 STI inner tie rod and picking up thin jam nuts gives enough clearance to get positive toe adjustment past zero, which is more than enough for me.
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Originally Posted by Underdog_LGT View Post
Gotcha - just sharing what I have discovered during the installation on my '06 LGT.

For reference, the 05-09 (BP/BL) LGT front track is 58.9" and the 08+ STI is 60.2", but I only needed to take off ~.16" per side from the '15 STI inner tie rods to get "better" than zero toe on my LGT. Not sure on the front track width of the GG or earlier models but if you have a smaller stub thread diameter to start with then the insert adapter method may prove fruitful.
from a quick browse this is what I've come up with.

What if you just taped off the exposed thread section of the ITR right up against the female side of the OTR? When you drop the old rack and put it side by side with the new rack, you can kind of guesstimate how much to cut assuming you are using the same OTR. Someone mentioned using thin jam nuts as well to give yourself room.

***On second thought, I just remembered the new poster is going with sti arms. You'll also have to compensate for that difference as well (which should mean less cutting).
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:13 PM   #387
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11. Trim inner and outer tie rods. I'm sorry I don't have hard numbers for how much you will need to cut. I cut my outers down so that there is just enough room to fit a wrench on them, and I cut the inners so that I could thread the outers all the way to the lock nut. This was enough to get the wheels to be visibly slightly toed in. Don't use this as a rule, this worked for me, but it may not work the same for you. Measure for yourself and take your time not to cut too much.

Also, I have to think that wagons (and GCs) are going to have to do something different. There's just barely enough of the tie rods left for the sedan, so with the narrower track it just won't happen without some shorter tie rods. I'm sure something exists, but I'm not aware of it (that's not saying much.)

I will note here. This is what it looked like with 04-06 STi control arms and stock GD WRX sedan subframe. The car is low on coilovers, and has a lot of camber which all factors in. If the wagon subframe is any narrower than the sedan at the control arm pickup points, that could give you a problem. I've since removed the stock jam nuts and installed shorter ones on both sides to give more wiggle room, because at one point in making suspension changes, I was at the limit of adjustment and out of alignment.
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:22 PM   #388
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T-37 are you running a bump steer ball joint with a stock geometry outer tie rod end? The angles between your LCA and tie rod looks a bit wonky...
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:23 PM   #389
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No, that's the full RCCK ball joints and tie rods.. I've since switched to GR WRX knuckles and it looks much better

Edit: That pic could have been taken at full droop on my previous Stance Supersports as well (not much travel on those), so not at ride height. I don't recall though

Last edited by T-37; 06-24-2020 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:14 PM   #390
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I've since switched to GR WRX knuckles and it looks much better
Off topic, but: You prefer those knuckles over GD? What advantages do you gain?

(Will be moving to EJ knuckles on my 1987 Subaru RX before long, currently running XT6 knuckles, but GD knuckles have camber adjustment and better Akerman angle built in, so curious how GR knuckles improved over GD parts.)
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:18 PM   #391
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I will note here. This is what it looked like with 04-06 STi control arms and stock GD WRX sedan subframe. The car is low on coilovers, and has a lot of camber which all factors in. If the wagon subframe is any narrower than the sedan at the control arm pickup points, that could give you a problem. I've since removed the stock jam nuts and installed shorter ones on both sides to give more wiggle room, because at one point in making suspension changes, I was at the limit of adjustment and out of alignment.
I looked through the subaru parts catalog and it seems that the subframe is the same on the wagon and sedan. I am looking into buying sedan inner and out tie rods. however im having a difficult time sourcing the adaptors. which would be m14 to m20 if im not mistaken.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:28 PM   #392
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I looked through the subaru parts catalog and it seems that the subframe is the same on the wagon and sedan. I am looking into buying sedan inner and out tie rods. however im having a difficult time sourcing the adaptors. which would be m14 to m20 if im not mistaken.
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Originally Posted by tenchi_wrx View Post
Finally got the rack installed and did a quick test drive around the block. The steering feel great, just a little heavier. Going to consider installing a power steering cooler later.

For the inserts to let you use the wrx inner tide information. According to Teammoist, all the 02-14 wrx use M14 tide rod.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=449

I ordered the following inserts from the following site (M14x1.5 to M20x1.5):

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/m14x...d-inserts.html

You can select different kind of materials from their site as well.

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/metr...d-inserts.html

The one I ordered only came with 1, so you will need to order 2.

Here is the picture of the inserts, there are 4 small locking keys at one end, but they can easily break off:



Insert partially installed on the wrx tide rod:



WRX tide rod installed to the 15 STi rack (the black tide rod in the back is the 2015 tide rod):



Hope this will help for anyone planning to use thier wrx inner tide rods.
I'm going to put this post on the first page also.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:35 PM   #393
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These



I'm going to put this post on the first page also.
perfect. do you know if only the rs inner/outer rods fit this application or if wrx/sti will work.

and thank you for the link makes it a lot easier.

Edit: I checked the parts catalog and it doesnt seem they are cross compatible. no worries ill just run the rs rods. shouldn't be a big deal

Last edited by shapobog000; 06-24-2020 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:37 PM   #394
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Off topic, but: You prefer those knuckles over GD? What advantages do you gain?

(Will be moving to EJ knuckles on my 1987 Subaru RX before long, currently running XT6 knuckles, but GD knuckles have camber adjustment and better Akerman angle built in, so curious how GR knuckles improved over GD parts.)
#1 is bolt on wheel bearings, which seem to be more durable than the press fit ones, as well as easier to replace. The tie rod arm of the knuckle is lower on the GR knuckle than the GD. I have these knuckles on both of my GD WRXs (both with Whiteline RCCKs as well).
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:39 PM   #395
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perfect. do you know if only the rs inner/outer rods fit this application or if wrx/sti will work.

and thank you for the link makes it a lot easier.
The post from Tenchi WRX was specifically for a GD WRX, he has a bugeye. I don't know if RS rods are the same or not
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Old 06-24-2020, 04:51 PM   #396
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The post from Tenchi WRX was specifically for a GD WRX, he has a bugeye. I don't know if RS rods are the same or not
fyi the 2002-2007 wrx wagon is the same size as the gc bodies. Unabomber has a write up as what he had to do
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Old 06-29-2020, 11:14 AM   #397
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Well, I FINALLY finished this project yesterday, and I think I can safely say I'm done.... I think.

I still haven't started the car and checked for leaks, but that will be my only issue (if the lines leak)

I did a few more things, like install a whiteline Roll Center kit/tie rods (yep, I cut those brand new things up!). I also had bought the inserts AND the shorter tie-rods from the EA81, so I had pretty much every option available.

A couple DIY tips that may help:

I made a spacer using 2-"3/8 x 1.25" washers (UDF marked), plus 4x "UAE" 1.25" washers. They were JB Welded together, and clamped. The "UDF" marked ones had a center hole that was a close match to the steering rack bolts. I then ran it on a grinder/sander to smoot the outside and make it all even. Worked great and I think will be more reliable than the pilot bearing option.

I found a cheap MUCH thinner lock nut for the inside of the tie-rod. If you go to a local VW or Audi dealer, and get 2x "N-102-187-08" it's a tie rod end nut for an Audi/VW. It's outside diameter is 20 or 21mm, but the inside is the same, and it's about half the thickness of the OEM one. They were $5.71 for two from an Audi dealer. With those, I have about 1" toe in, and 3" of total toe in the front even after what I've cut off.

Speaking of cutting off... I used a thin tooth (32) hacksaw blade and WD40 as lubricant to cut the threads. Worked amazing, and I had no issues at all rethreading stuff. If you need something to re-thread into the tie rod end, the front bumper tie down (the metal loop you screw into the front bumper to tow it) is the same threads, if you don't want to test fit it on the rack itself and worry about crossthreading.

I ended up cutting both the driver and passenger side crossmember a bit get it in. I may not have HAD to but, it made my life way easier putting it up to check for clearance, and then dropping it to cut more. I also have a 2.5RS, so no turbo to worry about and my crossmember holes were likely different.

I also used this write-up about it. He had some extra grinding, but there are part numbers on there which may help:

https://www.blingstrom.com/diy-proje...r-older-subaru


Hopefully these tips help someone who is getting ready or are in the middle of it. I'll see if I can get all my pics in a google album and will edit this post with the link.
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Old 06-29-2020, 11:35 AM   #398
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I did a few more things, like install a whiteline Roll Center kit/tie rods (yep, I cut those brand new things up!). I also had bought the inserts AND the shorter tie-rods from the EA81, so I had pretty much every option available.

I found a cheap MUCH thinner lock nut for the inside of the tie-rod. If you go to a local VW or Audi dealer, and get 2x "N-102-187-08" it's a tie rod end nut for an Audi/VW. It's outside diameter is 20 or 21mm, but the inside is the same, and it's about half the thickness of the OEM one. They were $5.71 for two from an Audi dealer. With those, I have about 1" toe in, and 3" of total toe in the front even after what I've cut off.

Speaking of cutting off... I used a thin tooth (32) hacksaw blade and WD40 as lubricant to cut the threads. Worked amazing, and I had no issues at all rethreading stuff. If you need something to re-thread into the tie rod end, the front bumper tie down (the metal loop you screw into the front bumper to tow it) is the same threads, if you don't want to test fit it on the rack itself and worry about crossthreading.
Thanks for all of that new info. especially those jam VW jam nuts.

So which route exactly did you go to manage the extra track width? Did you cut off the existing new ITRs on the 15+ STI rack? You said you bought extra parts as available options but I wasn't sure which route you went.

And how much did you cut off the OTRs from the Whiteline kit?

Just curious as I believe your RS is the same track width as the wagons so my mod (whenever that is) would be very similar to yours.
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:23 PM   #399
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Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Thanks for all of that new info. especially those jam VW jam nuts.

So which route exactly did you go to manage the extra track width? Did you cut off the existing new ITRs on the 15+ STI rack? You said you bought extra parts as available options but I wasn't sure which route you went.

And how much did you cut off the OTRs from the Whiteline kit?

Just curious as I believe your RS is the same track width as the wagons so my mod (whenever that is) would be very similar to yours.
Sorry, I have A GD 2.5RS, so same track width as sedan WRX. I did end up going the 'cut' route. I didn't want to have to undo the boots on the steering rack (plus the diameter difference between the old/new boots). I also didn't want to deal with the OLD (EA81) tie-rods as the ball joints were super generic and I didn't want to run the risk of an issue.

Here are some photos from the install. I also had a torn CV joint, so I pulled off the axles and replaced the boots/grease.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XEaVNsd2D7i39Uw17
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:27 AM   #400
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Were you able to measure how much you cut off of the WL OTRs and the threads of the ITRs?

By the looks of it, ~.25" off the OTRs and ~.5" off the ITR threads
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