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Old 07-02-2020, 08:25 AM   #401
DDMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Were you able to measure how much you cut off of the WL OTRs and the threads of the ITRs?

By the looks of it, ~.25" off the OTRs and ~.5" off the ITR threads
Yeah, didn't do specific measuring. It was 5 threads on the ITR's, and I used the little lip on the OTR's.

Sadly, the whitelines were threaded MUCH deeper than the stock ones, so I may not have had to cut much, if any, off the ITR's. The whitelines bottomed out while the stock ones stopped about 3-4 threads short.
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:03 AM   #402
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Yeah, didn't do specific measuring. It was 5 threads on the ITR's, and I used the little lip on the OTR's.

Sadly, the whitelines were threaded MUCH deeper than the stock ones, so I may not have had to cut much, if any, off the ITR's. The whitelines bottomed out while the stock ones stopped about 3-4 threads short.
I'll take the measurement of 5 threads on the ITRs! Thank you!

That's really good info on the Whiteline OTRs. This is the info we don't really see on here so thank you for that. Now I'll know to see how things measure up on my Superpro kit I have sitting around.
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Old 07-02-2020, 12:18 PM   #403
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Are the stock ITRs drilled as deep as the WL but just not threaded as far? If so running a bottoming tap into them might be a solution.
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Old 07-03-2020, 06:54 PM   #404
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So I just got in new inner tie rods that I was gonna use part number 34160AE000, and the inserts I bought off of threadtoolsupply.com do not fit (m14x1.5 to m20x1.5) so I dont think the information about all 2002-2014 wrx's using m14 threads is accurate they seem to be m16x1.5. Does anyone know which inner tie rods do use m14 threads?
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:12 PM   #405
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it looks like 2003 inner tie rods are a different part number (34160AE010) maybe those have the m14 thread on them. Im probably gonna return the ones i bought and buy these instead.
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Old 07-06-2020, 01:43 PM   #406
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Working on my alignment right now, and I'm a bit freaked out just HOW MUCH toe in I have.

I thought I would barely have any, but no.... I have TONS. Like 2+" worth. Good to know that I have some adjustability, but getting a little worried as I know I only had about 3" total toe adjustment combining both sides. Also means I could use the stock lock nut. Still a work in progress.

As for the WL kit vs stock, I'm honestly not sure. They're on the car now... so not gonna be able to check it. Lol
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Old 07-06-2020, 02:46 PM   #407
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Sick man keep it up
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Old 07-06-2020, 06:48 PM   #408
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I just got back from autozone. I checked the thread size of a 2003 wrx inner tie rod and they are indeed M14x1.5. So if you want to go the no cut route and would like to use readily available thread inserts from threadtoolsupply.com go with those tie rods.
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:53 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shapobog000 View Post
So I just got in new inner tie rods that I was gonna use part number 34160AE000, and the inserts I bought off of threadtoolsupply.com do not fit (m14x1.5 to m20x1.5) so I dont think the information about all 2002-2014 wrx's using m14 threads is accurate they seem to be m16x1.5. Does anyone know which inner tie rods do use m14 threads?
Quote:
Originally Posted by shapobog000 View Post
it looks like 2003 inner tie rods are a different part number (34160AE010) maybe those have the m14 thread on them. Im probably gonna return the ones i bought and buy these instead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shapobog000 View Post
I just got back from autozone. I checked the thread size of a 2003 wrx inner tie rod and they are indeed M14x1.5. So if you want to go the no cut route and would like to use readily available thread inserts from threadtoolsupply.com go with those tie rods.
What's interesting is that the ITRs are different like you stated, but just quickly checking, in example, the Whiteline kit, it fits all GD years. So I doubt the threads are different just based off of that. I'm not discounting what you experienced but this is kind of odd.

I also just checked for oem OTR on parts.subaru.com, 34161SA001, and it fits a ton of years and models including the GD chassis.
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Old 07-07-2020, 01:08 PM   #410
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He's talking about the other side of the ITR, where it threads into the rack. That's where the thread adaptors are used.
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Old 07-07-2020, 01:33 PM   #411
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He's talking about the other side of the ITR, where it threads into the rack. That's where the thread adaptors are used.
LOL, my apologies to shapobog000
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:30 PM   #412
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LOL, my apologies to shapobog000
All good.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:10 PM   #413
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Got the alignment done. Looks like I had plenty of thread and I'm glad I have the thin locking nut. While it looked like I had lots of toe to take out, it ended up only being about 5 full rotations on each side. Just enough for the width of the original locknut.

Now the new issue is that it takes ALOT of force to turn the steering wheel the first 1-2 degrees, then once it's moving, it's much easier. I've ran the system while it's been wheels up and cranked the wheel back and forth quite a few times. The PS reservoir hasn't dropped any, and when I went on my drive it was evident that something isn't right.

Hoping I don't have to replace my PS pump....
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:33 PM   #414
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Got the alignment done. Looks like I had plenty of thread and I'm glad I have the thin locking nut. While it looked like I had lots of toe to take out, it ended up only being about 5 full rotations on each side. Just enough for the width of the original locknut.

Now the new issue is that it takes ALOT of force to turn the steering wheel the first 1-2 degrees, then once it's moving, it's much easier. I've ran the system while it's been wheels up and cranked the wheel back and forth quite a few times. The PS reservoir hasn't dropped any, and when I went on my drive it was evident that something isn't right.

Hoping I don't have to replace my PS pump....
Did you tighten the steering joint before tightening up the rack to subframe? I did that when I replaced the bushings and that was exactly what happened.
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Old 07-09-2020, 11:25 PM   #415
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Did you tighten the steering joint before tightening up the rack to subframe? I did that when I replaced the bushings and that was exactly what happened.

Hmmm, not sure, actually. I THINK I got the steering joint lined up, then raised and secured the rack, THEN tightened up the steering joint, but, maybe not? It took 3x to get the wheel onto the proper spline to make sure the wheel was centered....

With how the splines line up, and how the bolt goes through, I would find it hard to believe that messed it up... So was the steering linkage binding up?
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Old 07-10-2020, 12:15 AM   #416
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you described the bind exactly what I experienced. It binds at the straight, then it goes away. the splines were "in" the steering joint, just not fully seated. So when you tighten the bolt, it clamps down at whatever length you have inserted into the joint. Then you bolt up the rack and that caused my bind. This was just with my rack initially loose, not fully off.

You described a LOT of force so maybe it's something else then.
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Old 07-11-2020, 08:03 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
you described the bind exactly what I experienced. It binds at the straight, then it goes away. the splines were "in" the steering joint, just not fully seated. So when you tighten the bolt, it clamps down at whatever length you have inserted into the joint. Then you bolt up the rack and that caused my bind. This was just with my rack initially loose, not fully off.

You described a LOT of force so maybe it's something else then.
Lot of force... I would equate it to the amount of force required to move the steering wheel, with the car off, while the wheels are in the air. Easily double the normal amount of force to move the wheel with the car on and it on the ground.

I just tested it and the amount of force to move the wheel, with the tires in the air, is pretty even, so I'm not sure if it's binding. Easy way to check is to unbolt the linkage from the rack and rotate the wheel a few times, then bolt it back down.
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Old 07-11-2020, 08:45 PM   #418
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That definitely doesn't sound right. Normally with a new rack, and new tie rods, everything is a little bit tight in the beginning, and wears in eventually. Its going to be heavier than it was, but you shouldn't really have to muscle it.
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Old 07-18-2020, 05:38 PM   #419
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Yeah, something is definitely not right. The "from center" seems to be fixed. I unbolted the link to the rack and turned the wheel a few times then re-torqued it down, so maybe it was binding. It's pretty consistent in terms of pressure needed to steer, but this vibration is clearly not normal. It happens when driving or stationary. I'm really wondering if my steering pump is up to the task...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JmHN62H7xpizkF9R7
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Old 07-19-2020, 07:12 AM   #420
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My rack is on it's way to replace the leaky one on my 14' STI. How do you center the rack before mounting?
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:53 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by DDMan View Post
Yeah, something is definitely not right. The "from center" seems to be fixed. I unbolted the link to the rack and turned the wheel a few times then re-torqued it down, so maybe it was binding. It's pretty consistent in terms of pressure needed to steer, but this vibration is clearly not normal. It happens when driving or stationary. I'm really wondering if my steering pump is up to the task...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JmHN62H7xpizkF9R7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/prgjqPNrwznzZ8zN7
Any chance you touched the PS lines away from the rack? Those lines near the front of the engine are pretty hard when they get old. Once you remove them from whatever connection and try to reclamp them, there's bound to be a slight air leak or entry into the system.
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Old 07-20-2020, 02:20 AM   #422
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Any chance you touched the PS lines away from the rack? Those lines near the front of the engine are pretty hard when they get old. Once you remove them from whatever connection and try to reclamp them, there's bound to be a slight air leak or entry into the system.
I think the issue is the bend. Due to how the hard lines attached to the rack, the return line is bent in a 270 degree circle. I think it's pinching the return line enough that it's reducing flow.

I'm gonna replace the return line straight from the hard line to the reservoir and see if that fixes it.

Ultimately I want to replace the PS lines with AN hoses, I just need to get the right parts to do so.
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:16 PM   #423
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Well it was NOT the return line. Ugh. But the lines are in bad shape so new line parts have been ordered.
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Old 07-25-2020, 12:16 PM   #424
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I can unfortunately confirm that the Russell 640820 (14x1.5 to -6AN) and 640830 (16x1.5 to -6AN) do NOT work on the stock rack.

The fitting bottoms out before the Oring gets compressed, so when the threaded section on the rack is fully into the adapter, the adapter is still quite loose.

I really am kinda done with this. Go from discovering my steering rack leak is actually probably just an Oring (after buying this whole new rack), to still being unable to drive the car today. My track day is 1 month away and with Summitracing taking over a week to ship stuff, a project that was supposed to be done a month ago, still isn't done.

Sorry for the rant.
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Old 07-25-2020, 01:37 PM   #425
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Damn, sorry to hear that. I will take the Russell completely out of the post. I went to the garage to confirm which I used. I still have the 14x1.5 Russell in the box, so I had to have used the Earl's fitting. It's been trouble free for a few years now. The 16x1.5 I haven't had problems with the fragola, but I wouldn't doubt if it is bottomed out.
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