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Old 07-25-2020, 02:09 PM   #426
kenliu84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDMan View Post

Sorry for the rant.
Understandable. We all hate it when these mods go wrong. I have a friend who did this not too long ago, I'll ask him to chime in if he used different parts.
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Old 07-25-2020, 11:59 PM   #427
DDMan
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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Damn, sorry to hear that. I will take the Russell completely out of the post. I went to the garage to confirm which I used. I still have the 14x1.5 Russell in the box, so I had to have used the Earl's fitting. It's been trouble free for a few years now. The 16x1.5 I haven't had problems with the fragola, but I wouldn't doubt if it is bottomed out.
Definitely recommended... I read every post before I did the job, and a couple others said the Russell doesn't work, but of course I didn't remember that when I went to order because, well, I never had planned on replacing the lines. Lol. One even mentioned cutting the bottom part to shorten the threaded side. I just bought the Earles one and will be done with it.

Just hoping that this solves the shuddering issue while steering, otherwise it's a new pump. Lol.

TY all. Know it will be worth it in the end
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Old 07-28-2020, 11:57 PM   #428
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EARLES FITTINGS WORK!

Well, I think today I confirmed that the pump is just not powerful enough. Replaced the hoses, bled the system, and no leaks. It is definitely BETTER, but it's noticeable.

The shudder is most obvious during the time that it would be most difficult to turn the wheel. When not moving. Once moving it's a little more pressure from 0 degrees to 45 degrees left/right, but once you pass 90 degrees it's smooth sailing and the steering is very easy all the way to lock. No weird noises, no humm or anything.

I might just drive with it and see what happens. Might make things more difficult on the AutoX course (shudder during rapid steering changes), but I think on the full track it will be fine.

Now I go look for a better PS pump and bracket....
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Old 07-29-2020, 10:42 AM   #429
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Just an FYI for anyone swapping these new generation racks into an 06-07 wrx wagon chassis, i have some input to add from my experiences.

I just completed the install of a 18 STI rack in my 07 WRX wagon. I had previously installed the caster adding STI control arms so the track width is equal to the GD STI. I also had the Whiteline Bump Steer correction kit which made a difference in the outter tie rods over the oem.

Parts used are:
18 STI rack
2 M10x1.25 60MM bolts
2 spacers (I used the Kartboy endlink spacers for this)
2 Washers and lock washers for the 60mm bolts
2 Audi Jam Nut PN N10218708
07 WRX Steering Rack 4 bolt bracket
06-07 Wrx/Sti Whiteline Steering Rack bushing kit (used all bushing in the set)

The only parts that required trimming were the Whiteline outter tie rod ends. Like everyone else, i trimmed the rounded off end up to the point where the flat areas exist for a wrench. This coupled with the thinner Audi Jam Nut leaves more than enough adjustability without the need to cut the inners at all. I measured my WRX rack that was already aligned for the STI control arms and it measured approximately an inch and a few cm longer than the 18 rack with the cut whiteline end links bottomed out. The subframe required the usual clearancing for the 18 rack to fit.

The spacers were mounted above the lower ear and below the higher ear on the rack making the flat mounting bracket from the WRX sit perfectly flat on the driver side of rack. The passenger side used the WRX C bracket as per usual. It should be noted the entire 06/07 Whiteline Steering Column bushings were used with the 2018 STI rack.

The lines required zero modification and the rack is fully functional with no weird pressure issues as of yet.

The wagon was aligned and is completely straight, with a tight feeling and perfectly fitting 2018 STI rack.
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Old 07-29-2020, 02:29 PM   #430
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Default Document of parts required for hoses and adapters-Please comment!

I know I posted a list of resources, but I went through an extensive search for steel or Stainless fittings a while back. I ended up finding them on Ebay. There is an increased risk of fire if a fitting leaks or breaks. A friend just had a hose leak which started a fire. Fortunately he had the hood up when it happened and had an extinguisher at the ready.
I'm a little irked when people say a fitting works or doesn't work and only references a brand. One Russell fitting 670520 does work on the rack. So, partly, I'm trying to clear up confusion and put things in one place.
I have compiled this Google Doc list of parts that I have used to build three different sets of hoses and the adapter fittings required to switch over to using AN hose ends.
Please review it and recommend any corrections or additions. Please let me post it here in the thread once the document is amended accurate and complete. I don't want to publish anything that is inaccurate and I'm sure someone will have a hose or fitting recommendation to add.
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Old 07-29-2020, 02:50 PM   #431
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Thank you for compiling that. It looks like a pretty comprehensive list, and you have the fittings that definitely don't work identified as such. I'll put a link to your post in the OP, so please continue to update/edit that post if you can as any changes are made.
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:03 AM   #432
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Thanks, I will keep it updated.
There are some other adapters that work up top, like banjos. Just depends on what your setup is and which pump you run.
Information collected about pumps would be helpful.
Is there a list/link for all the power steering pumps that interchange? Which ones are high pressure? I haven't felt the need on my '08 race car (without quick rack) and my '07 with the quick rack is not finished/drivable yet, but I think I got a higher pressure one for it. Some might want the inlet on the side of the pump and some might want both the in and out on top. If the inlet were tapped (threaded) I think an ORB fitting would work.
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:04 PM   #433
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I'm not really sure what all the options for pumps are either.
I'm using a pump from a GR WRX, and it seems to be just good enough. It's still a bit weak/loud right off idle, but it doesn't feel like it cuts out like the stock 04 WRX pump did. And at speed, it's perfectly fine. I would think the best option would be the 2015+ STi pump, but I'm not sure how direct of a fit it is.

To use the pump from the GR (onward?) on a GD, the 04-07 (and up?) pump bracket must be used for 03 and older engines.

I remember somebody (MRSaturn?) talking about a group n pump that was a direct fitment, but pretty pricey.

Another option might be to just fit a smaller pulley to overdrive the pump.

Edit: someone was making specialized adaptor fittings for the non-threaded pump fitting as well. Possibly MSI or IAG? If I'm remembering correctly it was a banjo adapter

Edit2: MSI -6 ORB MSI-MSISUB01-00-030

Last edited by T-37; 07-30-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 07-30-2020, 02:23 PM   #434
kenliu84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DatBigDude View Post
Just an FYI for anyone swapping these new generation racks into an 06-07 wrx wagon chassis, i have some input to add from my experiences.

I just completed the install of a 18 STI rack in my 07 WRX wagon. I had previously installed the caster adding STI control arms so the track width is equal to the GD STI. I also had the Whiteline Bump Steer correction kit which made a difference in the outter tie rods over the oem.

Parts used are:
18 STI rack
2 M10x1.25 60MM bolts
2 spacers (I used the Kartboy endlink spacers for this)
2 Washers and lock washers for the 60mm bolts
2 Audi Jam Nut PN N10218708
07 WRX Steering Rack 4 bolt bracket
06-07 Wrx/Sti Whiteline Steering Rack bushing kit (used all bushing in the set)

The only parts that required trimming were the Whiteline outter tie rod ends. Like everyone else, i trimmed the rounded off end up to the point where the flat areas exist for a wrench. This coupled with the thinner Audi Jam Nut leaves more than enough adjustability without the need to cut the inners at all. I measured my WRX rack that was already aligned for the STI control arms and it measured approximately an inch and a few cm longer than the 18 rack with the cut whiteline end links bottomed out. The subframe required the usual clearancing for the 18 rack to fit.

The spacers were mounted above the lower ear and below the higher ear on the rack making the flat mounting bracket from the WRX sit perfectly flat on the driver side of rack. The passenger side used the WRX C bracket as per usual. It should be noted the entire 06/07 Whiteline Steering Column bushings were used with the 2018 STI rack.

The lines required zero modification and the rack is fully functional with no weird pressure issues as of yet.

The wagon was aligned and is completely straight, with a tight feeling and perfectly fitting 2018 STI rack.
Love it, thanks for all of that info. I will be switching to STI control arms as well to avoid messing with cutting threads on the ITRs.

When you said the lines required zero modification, do you mean you didn't have to buy any adapters like everyone else here? You disconnected your lines from the original rack and connected to the new rack?
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:38 AM   #435
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Curious to see if anyone in here that has done this swap, has had any issues with the VA rack leaking?

Only reason I ask, is I have seen so many 2015+ STi racks replaced under warranty here at my dealership.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:10 AM   #436
T-37
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I haven't yet. But it's a valid question, and it's been a concern of mine for a while. I know a guy that had to have his replaced on his '15 under warranty a few years ago, plus there have been a decent number of posts about leaks on nasioc over the years.

Subaru may have fixed the problem as the current part number 34110VA121 has superceded 34110VA120. But I definitely have a 120, so we'll see how it goes.
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Old 08-02-2020, 02:24 PM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Please review it and recommend any corrections or additions. Please let me post it here in the thread once the document is amended accurate and complete. I don't want to publish anything that is inaccurate and I'm sure someone will have a hose or fitting recommendation to add.
I think the best answer is just to give you MY parts list, and you can go through it, since there seems to be alot of things in that doc. Mine is all for a 2.5RS, so I don't have a turbo to go around. Because of that my hose lengths may be different.


EAR-9894DBHERL-6AN TO 14MM X 1.5 ADAPTER (High Pressure to rack Oring)

EAR-9894DBJERL-6AN TO 16MM X 1.5 ADAPTER (Low pressure to rack Oring)

FRA-460614-BL#6 X 14 X 1.5 ADAPTER BLACK (PS Pump - Hose)

FRA-999214ALUM CRUSH WASHER 10 PK (For PS pump adapter)

FRA-484106-BLHOSE BARB BLK (AN to rubber hose barb (needed as the PS reservoir only has a barb)

FRA-60261130BLUNIVERSAL OIL OR FUEL HOSE (High pressure line)

FRA-60261424BLUNIVERSAL OIL OR FUEL HOSE (Low Pressure line)

Not listed is a 3/8 reinforced rubber hose (to connect the barbed fittings together, only about 3" worth of hose though), plus the hose clamps for that.
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:06 AM   #438
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I did include the premade 30" Fragola hose in my list. I am curious if you have noticed any performance issues or pump noise at low RPM's? The stock OEM return hose from the rack has a built-in restrictor and/or check valve. I eliminated it on the race car and only notice a little balkiness at creep speed in the pits. My return line is like yours, 3/8" or -6AN hose. I did only the high pressure line on a friend's car. Haven't run my other STI yet.

Why buy an expensive premade, high-pressure return hose and then add a barb adapter section where it connects to the reservoir? Why not use one AN hose end fitting and a cheaper piece of 3/8" hose? The return is not high pressure. Perhaps for looks?
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:45 AM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
I did include the premade 30" Fragola hose in my list. I am curious if you have noticed any performance issues or pump noise at low RPM's? The stock OEM return hose from the rack has a built-in restrictor and/or check valve. I eliminated it on the race car and only notice a little balkiness at creep speed in the pits. My return line is like yours, 3/8" or -6AN hose. I did only the high pressure line on a friend's car. Haven't run my other STI yet.

Why buy an expensive premade, high-pressure return hose and then add a barb adapter section where it connects to the reservoir? Why not use one AN hose end fitting and a cheaper piece of 3/8" hose? The return is not high pressure. Perhaps for looks?

Yep, completely for looks. I'd love to get an independent reservoir that has all AN lines, but I doublt that will happen. Truth is, it might just be BETTER to use a standard line over the AN because it's less stiff and moves better. Just need to make sure you get the right kind (they sold me a fuel line first), then had to explain it was for a PS line.
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Old 08-04-2020, 02:58 PM   #440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
I haven't yet. But it's a valid question, and it's been a concern of mine for a while. I know a guy that had to have his replaced on his '15 under warranty a few years ago, plus there have been a decent number of posts about leaks on nasioc over the years.

Subaru may have fixed the problem as the current part number 34110VA121 has superceded 34110VA120. But I definitely have a 120, so we'll see how it goes.
121s still leak. Source: I am a Parts Manager and stock a few

We on our 3rd rack in my GF Sally's VA chassis TA car, and it's starting to weep after only 2 events since we had it replaced
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Old 08-04-2020, 04:55 PM   #441
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Crazy, where do they typically leak from?

Maybe it's better that I stick with a slightly underpowered pump
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Old Yesterday, 03:35 AM   #442
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I do get a whine at startup. Replaced the top seal at the output shaft to fix a leak... anyone know how to restrict the return line to mimic the OEM lines?

Swapped my PS pump and all rubber lines thinking I was bringing in air through the suction hose. If itís the missing restrictor that would end my pursuit of this leak but I would love to add a restrictor to solve my PS whine.
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Old Yesterday, 11:03 AM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kos View Post
121s still leak. Source: I am a Parts Manager and stock a few

We on our 3rd rack in my GF Sally's VA chassis TA car, and it's starting to weep after only 2 events since we had it replaced
well, that's disheartening. I thought the change in the part number was because Subaru used a different seal to stop the leak. So now, whoever is repairing their pre-19 15+ STI racks are repairing them with bad seals?
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Old Yesterday, 01:25 PM   #444
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Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Love it, thanks for all of that info. I will be switching to STI control arms as well to avoid messing with cutting threads on the ITRs.

When you said the lines required zero modification, do you mean you didn't have to buy any adapters like everyone else here? You disconnected your lines from the original rack and connected to the new rack?
Yes that is correct, i just disconnected the WRX lines from the WRX rack and they connected right up to the New rack. No adapters or fittings necessary. Keep in mind this is true for 06-07 WRX/STI from my personal experience. Anything older may require the new lines as per the OP.
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Old Yesterday, 01:37 PM   #445
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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Crazy, where do they typically leak from?

Maybe it's better that I stick with a slightly underpowered pump
Maybe its also beneficial that the GD chassis is lighter than the VA and could cause just enough reduced stress on the rack that it doesnt leak?... Wishful thinking
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Old Today, 10:46 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iRishman514 View Post
...
Swapped my PS pump and all rubber lines thinking I was bringing in air through the suction hose. If itís the missing restrictor that would end my pursuit of this leak but I would love to add a restrictor to solve my PS whine.
The return line, which has the restrictor and/or check valve is not a "suction hose". Where there is suction is the large (I believe 5/8") feed hose from the reservoir to the pump.
I'm going to see if I can find my return hose and clear this up once and for all. I think I kept that section.
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Old Today, 12:38 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Crazy, where do they typically leak from?

Maybe it's better that I stick with a slightly underpowered pump
The spool area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
well, that's disheartening. I thought the change in the part number was because Subaru used a different seal to stop the leak. So now, whoever is repairing their pre-19 15+ STI racks are repairing them with bad seals?
I wouldn't necessarily say the seals are bad, but maybe the design isn't good?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DatBigDude View Post
Maybe its also beneficial that the GD chassis is lighter than the VA and could cause just enough reduced stress on the rack that it doesnt leak?... Wishful thinking
Something I too, have thought about. Even though GDs still aren't "light" by any meas
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Old Today, 01:25 PM   #448
Elbert Bass
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Just installed a 2015 STI rack in a 2002 WRX my son and I built. I cut 12mm off of each inner tie rod end and then used Moog ES-2972 outer tie rod ends.
Without having a decent band saw setup I did not want to attempt to cut the outer tie rods since that is the locking face for the jamb nut. The Moog tie rod ends are 12 mm short than the OEM. They do not have that slight angle the OEM has, but at the ride height we ended up with that was not an issue.


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Old Today, 01:38 PM   #449
T-37
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Keep an eye on those moog tie rods. I've had bad luck with moog ball joints only lasting a couple years.
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