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Old 01-12-2015, 12:01 PM   #51
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:43 PM   #52
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I was thinking of an alternate solution to the longer inner tie rod issue of the 15 STi rack.

What about turning more threads onto the inner tie rods?? I was discussing this with a friend (15 STi owner) and thought that if we could do this, turning about another 1" to 1.5" would suffice. You could still use the original jam nut and have enough threads to adjust plenty of toe in or out; not saying I would adjust so much toe but you get my point.

I actually found a performance parts and shop that are willing to do this. It took awhile for me to find a shop because I guess I was calling all of these production machine shops and they are only interested in large quantities and not one-off projects.

Also, the shop guy I spoke with asked me if the threads turned right or left. We went back and forth for a bit because I didn't get what he meant but it came down to 'righty tighty - lefty loosey'. He said if it turned left, I would have to buy the die for his machine. I want to confirm that our steering rack rod ends are 'righty tighty' right?
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:47 PM   #53
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Interesting, I was thinking the same thing, I am going to do this for sure on my GF* Did the shop give you a price.
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:54 PM   #54
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You will need to turn down the hex portion of the ITR in order to cut threads. That being said, you can pick up about an inch of travel this way before eating up all the hex and therefore losing the ability to turn the ITR with a wrench during alignment. Vice grips would suffice at that point if you don't mind chewing up the rod.
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:52 PM   #55
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No quote was given but I don't think it would be much.

From the pictures in this thread, that hex portion looks to be about 2.5" so I figure even if I did go to 1.5", I would still have plenty for alignment purposes. A wrench would only need less than half an inch. Could someone verify the length of the hex portion?
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:25 AM   #56
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I ordered my rack yesterday, I contacted a Machine shop already, I should see my rack in a couple days and then I will bring the inner tie rods over to the machine shop with a GC* inner. I also will need to make an interm. shaft adapter so I can use my GC* steering column. I'll let people with the narrow tracks know how it works out.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:06 AM   #57
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You're going to separate the inner tie rods from the rack (15 STi) and then bring it to the shop? Did they say won't accept it as a whole unit?

Please post pictures as well, thanks a lot.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:57 AM   #58
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Here you go.

'15 STI ITR hex measurement. Roughly 40mm long.

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Old 03-03-2015, 10:09 AM   #59
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Thanks a lot, Underdog.

Looks like a big chance for success then.

Referencing the picture, if you leave the hex portion untouched from the inside up to the 10mm mark, that would leave about 37mm to turn/continue the threads. The remaining hex portion is plenty for a wrench and 37mm is slightly less than 1.5". That's a total of 3" of track width we can reduce.

This should work out well.

Yebo, thanks for being the first one here to try this method.

Underdog, thanks again for the picture.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:26 AM   #60
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T-37, you mentioned this in your 1st post:

Optional upgrade parts.
GD STi steering linkage
Steering rack bushings - need driver's side '15 and passenger side GD.

Are the driver's side '15 bushings that different that you can't reuse the GD ones like you can with the passenger? I ask because I already have a set of WL bushings installed in my oem steering rack. The insert locations for the driver-side bushings look just like the ones on my oem rack.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:37 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
T-37, you mentioned this in your 1st post:

Optional upgrade parts.
GD STi steering linkage
Steering rack bushings - need driver's side '15 and passenger side GD.

Are the driver's side '15 bushings that different that you can't reuse the GD ones like you can with the passenger? I ask because I already have a set of WL bushings installed in my oem steering rack. The insert locations for the driver-side bushings look just like the ones on my oem rack.
I don't know for sure, I have an early GD that uses clamp/brackets on each side. I would guess they probably are the same, but I don't know if anybody with an 05+ GD has tried it yet.

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Old 03-03-2015, 10:55 AM   #62
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Ahhh that makes sense. My mistake - I keep clumping all GDs together.
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Old 03-03-2015, 12:03 PM   #63
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Very nice!! I've cut many things, including my roof, but a brand new rack would get my nerves going lol
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:23 PM   #64
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I was told they would have to do it on a lathe, so I was going to remove them from the rack to ensure I wasn't charged any extra labor. Plus since I am supplying another to compare it to it will help with that part.
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:52 PM   #65
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T-37, I was also wondering why you did not replace the full length of the return line (rack to reservoir) like you did with the feed line (pump to rack)? I'm just thinking things through and figured that if you replace the full length return line, you would eliminate a lot of connections that could possibly cause air or fluid leaks.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:05 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
T-37, I was also wondering why you did not replace the full length of the return line (rack to reservoir) like you did with the feed line (pump to rack)? I'm just thinking things through and figured that if you replace the full length return line, you would eliminate a lot of connections that could possibly cause air or fluid leaks.
The return line is the line that I replaced (pump to rack.) I left the line that runs from the rack to the reservoir mostly stock (just added a barb fitting and removed the metal elbow at the rack end) since it has an in line restrictor.

Edit: I would recommend running a larger return line than AN6 though. I am going to be changing mine to an AN8 or AN10

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Last edited by T-37; 03-03-2015 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:32 PM   #67
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Am in the middle of this now, with an 05 STI crossmember the reinforcement inboard of the LH LCA mount with the 2 studs that bolts to the lower brace has hard interference with the hard lines out of the rack. The low pressure side has mild interefernce but that is easy to deal with. The high pressure side isn't close, the rack won't go in without taking the HP hard line out of the rack. I like the looks of this brace since the lower brace pickup points are a weldment integrated into the LCA mount, so I would like to keep this style of crossmember. Working on a solution, will try to post pics when I do.
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:25 PM   #68
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I believe the return line is rack to reservoir, the High Pressure line pump to rack is the feed line. I was thinking of adding a cooler in when doing my lines, do people feel it's worth it, this car will see a lot of autocross, though I have been running Mobile 1 ATF with no issues.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:44 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrpB View Post
Am in the middle of this now, with an 05 STI crossmember the reinforcement inboard of the LH LCA mount with the 2 studs that bolts to the lower brace has hard interference with the hard lines out of the rack. The low pressure side has mild interefernce but that is easy to deal with. The high pressure side isn't close, the rack won't go in without taking the HP hard line out of the rack. I like the looks of this brace since the lower brace pickup points are a weldment integrated into the LCA mount, so I would like to keep this style of crossmember. Working on a solution, will try to post pics when I do.
I'll definitely be interested to see your solution as my rack has made it to the house. Thinking a flexible line in both directions will be the best bet.

Mine will be going into an '06 STi, and I'm thinking of a tubular crossmember to prevent some of the install issues. Just have to either find another place that doesn't charge an arm, leg AND my left nut or wait for TSS to finish their move.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:58 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yebokmj View Post
I believe the return line is rack to reservoir, the High Pressure line pump to rack is the feed line. I was thinking of adding a cooler in when doing my lines, do people feel it's worth it, this car will see a lot of autocross, though I have been running Mobile 1 ATF with no issues.
Do a cooler. the fewer times you need to bleed air from the Subaru PS the better. Get the cooler on when you do the rack.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:13 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post

Edit: I would recommend running a larger return line than AN6 though. I am going to be changing mine to an AN8 or AN10
Why this recommendation?
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:26 AM   #72
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Would it be easier to just buy a quick steering rack? About the same price as an OEM one and no cutting required.
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:48 AM   #73
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Just to be 100% clear; The only modifications required to bolt the rack to the subframe is to add the custom spacer and to clearance the hole for the rack 'head'?

The reason I'm asking like this is because I'm going to be ordering a TSSFab front subframe and I'm going to have him build it to fit the '15 steering rack. I could modify the TSS subframe afterwards, but if I let him do it, then maybe he can offer it to the rest of the community as a bolt-in solution.


I'm not asking about the tie rod ends. I know those have to be modified.
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:53 AM   #74
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Correct, you may also have to bend your stock hardlines or replace them with braided hoses.

But as far as the subframe is concerned its just enlarging the one hole and adding the spacer

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Old 03-19-2015, 11:16 AM   #75
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Correct, you may also have to bend your stock hardlines or replace them with braided hoses.

But as far as the subframe is concerned its just enlarging the one hole and adding the spacer

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Thank you sir.
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