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Old 02-13-2020, 07:44 PM   #26
Kostamojen
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A few goodies showed up yesterday and today

Rota Grid 15x8 +20 in Bronze!





A little surprise here...

A friend showed me a photo of some Miata guys running these wheels with Subaru 4 pots and a custom bracket with rotors about the same size as WRX rotors. So I figured, what the hell, and ordered a couple 4 pot calipers from Rockauto for about $115 each.




They showed up with two different finishes and one of them clearly had the Subaru logo ground off but for that price, I don't really care as long as they work. I had left over WRX rotors from the wagon so I don't have to buy new rotors, and pads are about the same as other Subaru pad prices so I basically saved about $100 because I WAS going to buy RS sized calipers and rotors and as you can see, turns out there is a TON of clearance with the 4pots!





Needless to say I'm a happy camper today. Plus I have a spare set of lug nuts so I don't even have to buy lugs for these wheels.
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:44 PM   #27
Kostamojen
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In case anyone is curious, here is the difference in size and weight from the L rotor and the WRX rotor:



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Old 02-13-2020, 09:49 PM   #28
JDMJNKY
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sweet progress. love the approach to weight watching.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:57 PM   #29
archer1.8
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This thread is awesome! Takes me back to my GC days when you couldn't walk through a junkyard without tripping over these cars. Now they are rare lol

I too had a 1.8L. I took a 2.2L shortblock, with 1.8L heads and intake manifold for my Autox GC. The higher compression and extra cubic inches with the 4:11 diff was a fun car.
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Old 02-16-2020, 03:04 PM   #30
Kostamojen
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Been working hard the last few days, taking a little break today...

Tomorrow these are going on the new wheels!



BFG had a $150 mail in rebate for Presidents day, so I splurged and bought the 245/40r15's. Probably going over my budget cause of that, but I kind of wanted 245's so I can set my fenders for that size and the Hankooks are like 2 months out.

Big news though is the subframe swap onto this car is complete!



This means the car now has a '15 STI steering rack, poly steering rack bushings, poly front control arm bushings, Group-N rear control arm bushings, and a slightly larger front sway bar with upgraded bushings as well. I'll have to get upgraded endlinks for it but in the mean time just running some new-ish factory ones I had laying around.

Swapped in the rebuilt power steering pump and new lines from the wagon too, had to make a bracket to give the lines somewhere to bolt too since they are for phase 2 motors. No big deal. Also no more PS pump leak



Finally, put the front bumper from the wagon on the car!



The driver side front tow hook hit something years ago looks like, which made fitting the bumper fender liner a pain on that side. The bumper sags a little too because of it but no big deal.

Next up is putting the new brakes and wheels/tires on, followed by the new suspension when it arrives this week!
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:32 PM   #31
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:54 PM   #32
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Following up on my comments from the XS-A thread, I still think roughly 2,200 lbs will be where you end up without doing some harder core lightening.

I would have kept the smaller brakes, even for track days and just ran ducting to them.

A lot of the interior bits are surprisingly light as you've found. The one that is not (besides the sound deadening) is the dash mat. If you're really motivated there are tons of brackets and the mat sitting behind the dash on the firewall. Good for 20-25 lbs of weight loss at the expense of noise.

Lots of stuff in your engine bay that needs to go to come close to the weight you want as well.
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Old 02-16-2020, 08:24 PM   #33
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2200lbs is the goal.

A lot of the engine bay bits I have to keep to keep it street legal, but ya there are a few I technically could get rid of.

I don't plan on ripping out the dash unless I have to, but ill be digging in there a bit when I get to removing the carpet.

I've always wanted to run 4 pots, plus they were cheap and they will be easy to deal with when needed. Not sure what I will do about ducting.
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:10 PM   #34
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Cool project. I didn't think you were going to go get another 1.8L.
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:55 PM   #35
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This is great!

I especially like that rear seat delete kit!

I would typically choose a front bumper skin that would easily accept brake ducting for track days, but might not be necessary in a light weight, under-powered momentum car..... but since you swapped bumpers it looks like you'd have that capability anyway.
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Old 02-19-2020, 03:59 PM   #36
Kostamojen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post

I would typically choose a front bumper skin that would easily accept brake ducting for track days, but might not be necessary in a light weight, under-powered momentum car..... but since you swapped bumpers it looks like you'd have that capability anyway.
There are a couple options for brake ducts if needed with this bumper for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bemani View Post
Cool project. I didn't think you were going to go get another 1.8L.
I didn't either! But I know so much now that I know the right and wrong ways to upgrade the motor when I get to that point.
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:17 AM   #37
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Got some racing seats!

But they need a little tweaking...

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Old 02-20-2020, 12:11 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Got some racing seats!

But they need a little tweaking...
You're brave! And I applaud your documentation on that! Haha.

That Corbeau was the first fixed back I ever used, and man, it was a game changer compared to a stock seat. It fit me well enough at a 32-34" waist. It's now living on the passenger side of my track car, as a mid-level MOMO Start FIA fiberglass seat replaced the driver seat. I love the Momo, more support, and double the comfort, which was surprising considering it was the cheapest FIA approved seat I could find, but it is at least an inch or two narrower/more snug than the Corbeau, so certainly not for everyone.
My girlfriend HATES the Corbeau on the pass side though, as it's just a little narrow for her hips. I always wondered about spreading those side bars a smidge, but was always afraid to try it. Glad to see you did and it worked!
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Old 02-20-2020, 02:09 PM   #39
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Where did you source the JDM bumper beams? That's a helluva weight savings on either end of the car!
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Old 02-20-2020, 02:14 PM   #40
Kostamojen
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Bought them a couple years ago at the dealer for the wagon. Don't know if they are still availible, I do know the aluminum hood is no longer available tho
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Old 02-23-2020, 10:49 PM   #41
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Second part of the seat modifying video series is up... Turned out pretty good, a lot more comfy than before.

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Old 02-29-2020, 09:39 PM   #42
Kostamojen
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Alright, been battling with getting the wagon back together to make more room in the garage for working on this car, and battling with a used Bilstein PSS9 suspension I bought that needed a few fixes to be able to use...

But I have an update finally!

Installed the suspension along with the 4 pot brakes, pads and lines for both the front and rear. Here are some interested photos of weights for reference:.

The stock wheels/tires compared to the new wheel/tire setup. I gained 9lbs a corner, but then again the stock wheels were 13's and the tires are 175s versus 245's on the new wheels!




The factory 1 pot caliper weights versus the 4 pots... As you can see the weight is roughly the same, but I did forget to weigh the pads on the 4 pots but they cant be more than 1lbs.




The Bilsteins are lighter than the factory suspension, but not by a whole lot. Fronts only save 4lbs per corner:




Rears only save about 3.5lbs per. I think if I don't like the spring rates, I might go to Swift springs and save a little more weight:


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Old 02-29-2020, 09:49 PM   #43
Kostamojen
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Now for the more entertaining pics...

Had to spend a day cleaning up the suspension, it was a bit corroded even though it supposedly only had 1k miles on the struts (struts seem good, but they are at least 4 years old). Had to repair some treads, fix a stuck collar, polish off all the corrosion, and even find some washers to do the install:




I'm trying out the Pedders offset tophats this time around. I've found over the years I prefer group-n or a factory style tophat over camber plates, but I've hard the Com-c tophats have issues but these pedders are "angled" to fix the issue Com-c's had.



Got the car on the ground, and damn its LOWWW!!! Going to have to get the rears a little higher, but the front seems good for now...





...but the geometry is a little inverted right now, so I might have to raise the front and add a roll-correction kit to get it more in line with where it should be. Need better front endlinks too.




I still have to do something about the rear control links/trailing arms as well. I'm thinking I'll take off the whole rear subframe and order some bushings to see what will fit. I have some left over front trialing arm bushings to try. I do need to change out the rear control links for ones with attachments for swaybar endlinks.


Next up... Rolling the fenders! Should be interesting.
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Old 03-01-2020, 07:07 PM   #44
Kostamojen
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Started working on the fenders today.

I did something with the front fenders I haven't seen anyone else specifically do... I made a cut in the middle rear of the fender allowing the fender to pull out a lot easier, and also I'll be able to use part of the factory fender liner in that rear part of the fender still that hasn't been all bent up. Going to fiddle with the fender liners this week and see what else I can do with the, but I think the front fenders are good to go for clearance.






The rear fenders though, I need to bend them out quite a bit more if I can... Or I might just have to start cutting them. I noticed camber on my pass side is a bit more than the driver side, so maybe I can tweak the driver side to get better clearance. It did rub during a quick test drive around the block.

Also, right now my rear springs are at MAX height! The FWD suspension sits lower by about an inch or more which means that rear coilover adjustments require it to be set at a higher setting than the front (fronts are set pretty low).




I'm going to have to add rear Saggy Butt spacers for sure... But I'm not sure if I should try the 3/8" spacers like I have before and delete the rear strut bar, or go with 1/2" aluminum ones for the extra strength and swap out the studs. I MIGHT even need 1" spacers... But I don't know, thoughts anyone?
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Old 03-02-2020, 10:48 AM   #45
Patrick Olsen
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What about getting coilover spring spacers? I think the PSS9s use 60mm springs? Something like this - https://www.hrpworld.com/gen-gc1025-...tall-each.html. (There may be cheaper options out there, that's just the first I found.)

The Saggy Butt spacers may be cheaper/easier, I don't know, never used them.
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Old 03-02-2020, 01:09 PM   #46
Kostamojen
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I can't raise the springs up any higher than they are right now... The helper spring is fully compressed. I need to add height via the strut top IE the lift kits and saggy spacers.
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Old 03-03-2020, 12:29 AM   #47
JDMJNKY
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Steering rack is on the bucket list. Nice updates.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:26 PM   #48
WhiteZombie
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The car looks really good! Congrats!

I've had Whiteline Com-C's front strut mounts on my wagon a little over a year now with no issues, as supposedly they fixed their bearing issues, but I'd love to hear how those Pedders work out for you, just in case.

Are you planning to corner weigh the car? A slightly lower rear ride height may work in your favor to offset the front heavy nature of the car, IF the geometry isn't compromised too badly.

Looking forward to more updates and driving impressions!
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Old 03-03-2020, 02:49 PM   #49
Kostamojen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post
Are you planning to corner weigh the car? A slightly lower rear ride height may work in your favor to offset the front heavy nature of the car, IF the geometry isn't compromised too badly.
I might at some point get on a set of corner scales, but not do anything fancy with it.

Going to be awhile before its up and driving, still have a lot of work to do.
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Old 03-05-2020, 07:08 PM   #50
Kostamojen
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Did about another 1/2" of fender rolling in the rear, and installed the 3/8" Subtle Saggy Butt spacer in the rear and its not rubbing now. Tried it on some hard bumps and it seems to be fine now, which is good.






The engine did have a new odd noise today, going to have to diag that. Going to probably do valve cover gaskets tomorrow. Need to start doing the interior, and I also need to do the rear trailing arm and lateral link bushings too before I can get an alignment...
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