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Old 09-09-2009, 01:57 AM   #1
sniper512
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Default Rob's 550 Tune Review

Well Rob and I have been going back and forth for a bit now. I started with his 440 tune and ran around 14psi. This is a really nice tune in my books. Made a big difference with the driveability and definitely helped the power very nicely.

On Thursday I finally got my 6MT and all that good stuff in the car(93 WRX EJ20G). I also got a set of 05 STi 550s and Rob's new 550 tune in her too. All I have to say is amazing. The car has never felt better. I had Rob set my rev limiter to 7800rpm(can be set to what you want) and also added his new Launch control feature. The car is running 15psi in lower gears and hitting about 17psi in 4th through 6th tapering to about 15psi by about 7500rpm. There is still a little more to be had, but for now I will keep it at this level for a bit. Car pulls strong right to 7500. Launch Control is just too much fun. It revs to 5000rpm in 1st(can be set to whatever you want) and builds just under 10psi at the line. The car actually spun all 4 RE070s today. After a couple of tries I got the car to hammer out of the hole just perfect.

I would recommend this to anyone looking for a great option instead of a standalone. This tune is pretty much as much as you want to push out of your stock engine and still keep it reliable anyways.

I would also like to mention that Rob provided get tech and just general support to me. Shipping was very quick and he will work with you to get what you want.

Cheers, Ryan
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Old 09-09-2009, 03:51 AM   #2
1995REX
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sniper what is your car set up. Sorry for not seeing this first. Just wondering what your car has different before the trans. Was the 6mt a hard swap and what all did you need.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:05 PM   #3
sniper512
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The car has an 02+ WRX TMIC, turbo-back exhaust, 550 injectors, Rob's tune, 6MT swap with Brembo's and ACT 6 puck clutch, Coil conversion.

The only thing that changed in the car from the 440 tune to the 550 tune was the trans swap. The other engine mods were on there with the 440 tune. The car pulls very hard. Easily comparable to my good friends 05 STi with a RocketRally pro-tune and to many bolt-ons to list and since I have the same drive-train the butt dyno is legit. The car doesn't quite have the kick down low as the EJ257 but it seems to have endless power up high where the EJ257 seems to fall off. Keeping in mind I weighed the car after the swap and it came in at 2750lbs.

For the swap. You basically need
-STi 4 hubs and axles
-R180 diff(needs R160 rear mounting studs)
-STi driveshaft
-6MT
-Sti clutch/ flywheel
-STi trans mount
-Modified stock suspension(lower front bolt holes need to be drilled out a bit) or do what I did and got BC racing coilovers for this swap.

Your Slave will work as will your trans cradle. Save all your old bolts as most will be reused. R180 bolts in to the rear R160 location. There is talk that you may need adjustable rear lateral arms to correct camber. I used my stock ones and seems fine.

You can save yourself hassel and go with a 04 STi setup so you can keep your wheels. Or even do just the 6mt from the 04 STi with all your stock axles and hubs.

Last edited by sniper512; 09-09-2009 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:16 PM   #4
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Thanks Ryan. Since you are somewhat of a 1/4 guy, how useful do you find the LC feature? Do you think it really helps get you off the line quicker?

I have only really tried it at the last national rallyx with the LC rev limiter down to 4k. It felt like it helped with modulating the clutch release, but a couple times I over ran the available traction.

I haven't really tried on the street yet, except to impress my friends with the sound at a stop light
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:46 PM   #5
sniper512
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LC is going to help a lot. Tires are needed though and a strong gear box that's for sure. 225/45R17 RE070's can handle a clutch dump if its warm pavement or at the track I am sure. On a cool day a little slipping and she's out of the hole still like mad. I wish more boost could be had with LC but for now just under 10psi is good. Next step is a FMIC though. I think my TMIC that I had to modify down to one inlet instead of the 2 with the y-pipe is very limiting at these boost levels. You can hear the air being squeezed through it lol. I would bet money a FMIC would do wonders and also help with raising the boost a bit more.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:15 PM   #6
azn0boi04
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sweet... cant wait rob.... still working on my swap... unfortunately.

THIS IS GOING TO BE AWESOME!!!

did u install that FMIC? how did your car run with the fmic.?

i have one waiting to be put in ...
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azn0boi04 View Post
sweet... cant wait rob.... still working on my swap... unfortunately.

THIS IS GOING TO BE AWESOME!!!

did u install that FMIC? how did your car run with the fmic.?

i have one waiting to be put in ...
My goal is to fit the FMIC in a couple weeks when I have some time off.

-Rob
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:03 PM   #8
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Awesome. I'll be waiting to see that. Do you have an ABS module in the way like my WRX?
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:19 PM   #9
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well I have an ABS unit.....not sure if it's in the way yet
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:31 PM   #10
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Haha awesome lol. Well the kits I have seen have the plumbing running right through what would be the ABS Module lol on the older cars. I have seen pics of some that go into the fender but don't know which one it is.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:49 PM   #11
1995REX
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let me know what FMIC you decide to run and what you do with the ABS mine is the same way or is there a ABS delet out there
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
I started with his 440 tune and ran around 14psi. This is a really nice tune in my books. Made a big difference with the driveability and definitely helped the power very nicely.
+1 for this tune. I actually bought the tune off of Ryan when he went into his 550 tune. My car was having issues with hesitation, low boost levels and just not pulling how it should. After putting in the new ECU it was a world of difference. Excellent work
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:25 PM   #13
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Your new, but used 440s helped the starting and hesitation issues too.

Hey Rob I am thinking I will need to go to a EBC instead of the MBC I am running now. I want to get boost up a bit more but my peak boost is hitting fuel cut off if I raise the boost anymore than I have now. I am thinking of going with the HKS EVC-S. Unless there is a trick to getting a MBC to not peak so badly in higher gears?
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
Your new, but used 440s helped the starting and hesitation issues too.

Hey Rob I am thinking I will need to go to a EBC instead of the MBC I am running now. I want to get boost up a bit more but my peak boost is hitting fuel cut off if I raise the boost anymore than I have now. I am thinking of going with the HKS EVC-S. Unless there is a trick to getting a MBC to not peak so badly in higher gears?
I don't have any real suggestion. I never ran my cheap ebay MBC that high before I switched to the AVCR. I still don't have it dialed in completely, so I occasionally see spiking up to to 1.33 bar. But unlike you, I chose to completely remove the nasty MAP sensor max out boost cut One nice thing about the AVCR that you may want to consider is that you can wire it such a way to display injector duty cycle. It's at the expense of reading RPM which severely limits general functionality, but I have mine wired to a switch and run with the RPM as input most of the time.

-Rob

Last edited by rob; 09-10-2009 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:18 PM   #15
sniper512
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Okay next question. For the MAP sensor if you were to limit the boost it sees would that in effect raise fuel cut?
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:26 PM   #16
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Hey man, I know we were discussing this over on our local boards but I figured I'd post up the info for everyone else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
-Modified stock suspension(lower front bolt holes need to be drilled out a bit) or do what I did and got BC racing coilovers for this swap.
You can use the stock STI suspension with '90-92 (IIRC, mine are '91) legacy rear top hats.

Quote:
Your Slave will work as will your trans cradle. Save all your old bolts as most will be reused. R180 bolts in to the rear R160 location. There is talk that you may need adjustable rear lateral arms to correct camber. I used my stock ones and seems fine.
If you have adjustable top hats' that will probably solve the problem. You'll find out come alignment time - I had ~0.75* of positive camber in the rear. My whiteline adjustable rear lateral links just arrived in the mail so I can post up some before/after pics soon.

Quote:
You can save yourself hassel and go with a 04 STi setup so you can keep your wheels. Or even do just the 6mt from the 04 STi with all your stock axles and hubs.
You need to use a proper rear diff for the transmission (usually one from a bugeye WRX but you'll need to double check) and a driveshaft from an auto Impreza.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:33 PM   #17
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Haha thanks I was going to get to that if more question had come up lol.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
Okay next question. For the MAP sensor if you were to limit the boost it sees would that in effect raise fuel cut?
You could wire in a fuel cut defencer (simple 4.7v zener diode) to prevent the MAP sensor output from ever reaching 5v.
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:01 AM   #19
1995REX
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I have a HKS Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) laying around or i can get them new here if you are interested in going that route only like 4 wires to plug in pretty simple just another option to throw out there
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:55 AM   #20
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Hmmm interesting. I may have to try that. I will pick one up tomorrow and try it out. At least then I should be able to hit a bit higher boost and maybe peak to 19psi. I am at 3500ft so 19psi should be fine with my fueling if you were good around 18psi on the tune hey.
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:14 AM   #21
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None of this would be necessary if Ryan would have asked for boost cut elimination
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:17 AM   #22
1995REX
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so its a good thing i asked for mine with the elimination then
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:41 AM   #23
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Yes yes it is lol. Oh well I'll get around it or get a new tune:P
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:47 PM   #24
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Its a matter of personal preference. In general some people prefer to keep that last safeguard. Others are ok with removing it completely and relying on gauges and their own paranoia to keep out of trouble.

The difficulty with the EJ20G setup is that the stock MAP sensor's range is limited to 1.25 BAR, so as it stands, the ECU is not capable of a boost cut above that. So the options are either to have a 1.25 BAR boost cut, install a different MAP sensor and remap the ECU (which I haven't spent time doing yet), or eliminate boost cut all together.

And as your are finding out Ryan, ideally boost cut should be a couple PSI above where you want to run peak boost to cover random spiking.

-Rob
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:49 PM   #25
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Thanks for that Rob.

I will try the 4.7v diode and see how she is. If not the defencer is goin in haha. I will try pushing the boost up till I see some knock then cut it back a bit.
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