KillerB Spoolinator users install and build thread

[snow_bound26]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Thx snowbound. Any advantage to buying their oil pan too? Or you think the pickup and the baffle are good enough for a weekend streetcar that doesn’t see a track? Man for the few hundred spent on pickup and baffle, it sounds like good insurance to not have to rebuild a blown motor due to oil starvation.

As long as you have the STi type pan you'll be fine for street use. I believe their pan helps keep oil from sloshing during hard cornering. I don't have it personally because it was out of my budget at the time. May do it in the future since my car sees track time.

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[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by jgr208

Does anyone know if the spoolinator fits the 2015-2019 STI?

We've not tested it ourselves, but GR/VA downpipe fitment is generally the same. Engine wise, there should be no issue.

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Thx snowbound. Any advantage to buying their oil pan too? Or you think the pickup and the baffle are good enough for a weekend streetcar that doesn’t see a track? Man for the few hundred spent on pickup and baffle, it sounds like good insurance to not have to rebuild a blown motor due to oil starvation.

Originally Posted by snow_bound26

As long as you have the STi type pan you'll be fine for street use. I believe their pan helps keep oil from sloshing during hard cornering. I don't have it personally because it was out of my budget at the time. May do it in the future since my car sees track time.

Typically we recommend the oil pan if you track more than occasionally. At this point the experience level and handling mods are likely yo a point where you're going to be at the limits of the factory oil pan setup.

Our Performance Oil Pan will provide insurance from starvation until you get to levels of 'extreme racing conditions'. Think high dollar aero, full cage, slicks, etc... At that point the addition of our Oil Control Valve will handle anything you can throw at it.

[kcinsparks]

Thanks snow and KillerB! Looks like the combo pan/baffle/pickup from KillerB’s site is the way to go. Since the pan has to come off anyways, only makes sense to spend a few hundred more in insurance.

The more I research about the Spoolinator, the more I want to just buy it and have it ready in my garage for when I’m ready to tackle the install. All I’ve read is praise about the kit, but the install looks like a whole bunch of fun

[kcinsparks]

What’s up guys?! Ok so I haven’t even received my 18gxtr yet (I gave UPS the wrong address doh!), but I’m already thinking what’s next. Turns out a Suby mechanic who builds cars in his garage with his free time lives 10 houses from me. His current STI his 560whp, but since another guy just trumped him, he’s rebuilding his block and entire setup under the hood to aim for 800whp. Just insane!

We talked yesterday, and he shot me some numbers last night for a built motor/heads setup that’ll let me reach 500whp. Since he’ll be pulling the motor, I think it’ll be perfect timing to grind the block down for the Spoolinator setup. I told him that I don’t want to change my intercooler piping etc, and that I’m looking for the quickest spooling 500whp street monster, so I need input from KillerB.

Originally I was looking to pickup the 3067r from you guys if you could’ve special ordered it for me. I really liked the video you posted showing the insane responsiveness. Now with a built block and stage 2 heads, can I go up a size or two (3071 or bigger) but still have that quick spool of the 3067 on stock block/heads like the car in your video? I told him I want a block that can handle 550-600 that way I have a cushion in case I do want to go bigger.

Also, my buddy has a set of KillerB holy headers laying around unused since he’s going custom header. They’re not coated though. How much difference does coating really make? This is for a weekend fun car that avoids rain and might get driven 2-3k miles a year. Trying to decide if I should order from you guys or pickup his unused set. Also, what is the lead time right now for headers and coating shipped to 96707? Also, it comes with an up pipe ready for ewg? Want to make sure I don’t order an up pipe then realize I need yours instead.

Thanks in advance!!

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

I’m looking for the quickest spooling 500whp street monster, so I need input from KillerB.

On what fuel? This will drive the turbo size and possibly the housing A/R as well. Is this only street driven?

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Now with a built block and stage 2 heads, can I go up a size or two (3071 or bigger) but still have that quick spool of the 3067 on stock block/heads like the car in your video? I told him I want a block that can handle 550-600 that way I have a cushion in case I do want to go bigger.

The short answer is no. You can build for response or power, but when you build for both you will be disappointed. Anything in the heads that slows down velocity going into the cylinders (porting, big valves, big cams, etc..) will reduce response. The flip side is a reduced restriction at high RPMs where there is excess flow. I personally do not recommend anything but OEM cams unless you're shooting for +600whp. OEM cams work just fine up to that point (and 7,500RPMs) and are WAY more reliable than aftermarket cams. OEM cams will also give you best response down low in the rev range. Still can't spec a turbo until we know what fuel.

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Also, my buddy has a set of KillerB holy headers laying around unused since he’s going custom header. They’re not coated though. How much difference does coating really make? This is for a weekend fun car that avoids rain and might get driven 2-3k miles a year. Trying to decide if I should order from you guys or pickup his unused set. Also, what is the lead time right now for headers and coating shipped to 96707? Also, it comes with an up pipe ready for ewg? Want to make sure I don’t order an up pipe then realize I need yours instead.

I would buy used, it's way less expensive. Coating is great for improving transient response and lowering underhood temps. I use it on ALL of my personal and shop cars. If you order from us, we have ~2-week lead time for headers and the Swain Tech Multi-Layer coating takes ~4 weeks to complete (it's a long process).

We offer an EWG version, or we can modify our traditional header/up and add an EWG. Some people go with this progression as they build up more power over the years.

[kcinsparks]

Thanks! Doh! Meant to edit my post earlier with fuel type. Got sidetracked watching Spoolinator vids on YouTube lol.

I plan to stay pump 92 with 50/50 meth at sea level. E85 is annoying to store and expensive here in Hawaii (no pumps, only guys selling 55gal drums for around $1000 last I heard).

Any difference from 100 oct (we have it at one pump in Honolulu) or 92 oct with the 50/50 meth?

Basically you’re saying just keep the heads stock for responsiveness? I want responsiveness not dyno queen numbers. Driven on the weekend, back streets, mostly twisty backroads. For reference I’ve done less than 1000 miles in 6 months.

Thanks again for enlightening me. I figured built heads give more power, but I failed to realize the response drawback. Seems like I should just build the block and run the 3067 for the responsiveness. I won’t complain about 400whp if it’s super responsive and fun!

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

I plan to stay pump 92 with 50/50 meth at sea level. E85 is annoying to store and expensive here in Hawaii (no pumps, only guys selling 55gal drums for around $1000 last I heard).

Any difference from 100 oct (we have it at one pump in Honolulu) or 92 oct with the 50/50 meth?

I'm no expert when it comes to Meth or Meth cocktails. Meth is just too much risk for my personal tastes, but I would say on pump 93 a 3576 will get you into the mid-400s. Assuming meth adds at least another 50whp, then you're at your goal. The 3576 is the biggest I recommend for a 'street' turbo as it still has decent responsiveness. If you do decide to run E85 it is good for ~600whp even with stock heads.

I think the 3071 is just too small and whenever someone is considering a 3076, I will always recommend the 3576 as you really have no tax in spool, but make power, or the same power more efficiently (less boost) than the 3076. The 3576 is probably my favorite turbo on the EJ25 as it just makes great linear power, and lots of it.

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Basically you’re saying just keep the heads stock for responsiveness? I want responsiveness not dyno queen numbers. Driven on the weekend, back streets, mostly twisty backroads. For reference I’ve done less than 1000 miles in 6 months.

Thanks again for enlightening me. I figured built heads give more power, but I failed to realize the response drawback. Seems like I should just build the block and run the 3067 for the responsiveness. I won’t complain about 400whp if it’s super responsive and fun!

Yes, stock heads for sure will be more responsive, and MUCH more reliable. The formula we use at this power level is Ferrea valve train parts, with the springs being heavier and the valves being stock sized. The Bronze guides are a must IMO too. This give the best reliability/performance balance. OEM valves go out of round quick, especially once you make more power/heat.

3067 is FUN no doubt, and with a big turbine housing and meth you will clear 400. Based on my own experience I would dial back the spool-up as it beats the crap out of the bearings. It's one of those careful what you wish for situations. Torque at low RPMs is super fun, but it really abuses the rod bearings. If you're doing a refresh ever few thousand miles, not a big deal, but if you want it to last, I would sacrifice some response for more power up top where it's not as abusive to the engine.

[kcinsparks]

KillerB, thank you. Very informative as usual. I’m trying to justify spending the couple grand on built heads (BC cams) vs not touching them at all vs doing the Ferrea setup like you mentioned while leaving cams alone. I do want reliability and a few extra ponies wouldn’t hurt either. But I do want fun quick spool too.

Just FYI I picked up your pan/baffle/pickup kit through a buddy of mine. Just came in to his shop. Now to decide on if/when to switch my Perrin headers for your coated elh. Figure why not since headers have to come off to get the oil pan out. But that puts another dent in the wallet lol.

I see what you mean by 3067 coming on too hard too fast. 3071 being too small, and 3076 being the old go to which now the latest tech makes the 3576 gen 2 the new go to on a 2.5 based on negligible spool difference and more power potential. Seems like 3576 is it then. Thank you for that turbo knowledge.

Now to get your take on Spoolinator vs a rotated kit like ETS makes. My buddy has ETS and is trying to say “it’s better” with no reasons other than he didn’t have to grind the block and he can swap turbos easily. I think you said your kit gives optimum piping angles which means more efficient which means more power potential. How painful is it to swap turbos?

I just did my Blouch 18gxtr myself Friday, and it was a total pain. Stock location turbos suck quite frankly. With your setup, is it less painful? Trust me, I enjoyed the experience and learning, but it did take longer than I planned. I did scope out the area where I would need to grind, and it wasn’t bad at all with the turbo and ic pipes off. Plenty of room to get in there.

Thanks!!

[Harey]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

KillerB, thank you. Very informative as usual. I’m trying to justify spending the couple grand on built heads (BC cams) vs not touching them at all vs doing the Ferrea setup like you mentioned while leaving cams alone. I do want reliability and a few extra ponies wouldn’t hurt either. But I do want fun quick spool too.

Just FYI I picked up your pan/baffle/pickup kit through a buddy of mine. Just came in to his shop. Now to decide on if/when to switch my Perrin headers for your coated elh. Figure why not since headers have to come off to get the oil pan out. But that puts another dent in the wallet lol.

I see what you mean by 3067 coming on too hard too fast. 3071 being too small, and 3076 being the old go to which now the latest tech makes the 3576 gen 2 the new go to on a 2.5 based on negligible spool difference and more power potential. Seems like 3576 is it then. Thank you for that turbo knowledge.

Now to get your take on Spoolinator vs a rotated kit like ETS makes. My buddy has ETS and is trying to say “it’s better” with no reasons other than he didn’t have to grind the block and he can swap turbos easily. I think you said your kit gives optimum piping angles which means more efficient which means more power potential. How painful is it to swap turbos?

I would save the extra money on the heads and spend it on the killer b headers.

Killerb, I understand the 3576 is a great match for the engine but I cant believe there arent applications for a 3071. Seems like the spoolinator is spooling up too fast for the engine that you need a massive turbo to compensate lol

You are spot on with the piping angles of the spoolinator being superior to all rotated kits I have seen. Have a look at the up-pipe and dump pipe of the ets kit:
https://www.extremeturbosystems.com/...Turbo-Kit.html

The up-pipe has a sharp bend right before the turbo (where the wastegate port is) and the dump pipe has a 60 degree bend or so right behind the turbo outlet. Will it work, sure, but the angles on the spoolinator kit are far superior.

The downsides of the spoolinator are as you already said, limited turbo choices, grinding of the block required for install and more difficult to remove/fit the turbo.

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

Now to get your take on Spoolinator vs a rotated kit like ETS makes. My buddy has ETS and is trying to say “it’s better” with no reasons other than he didn’t have to grind the block and he can swap turbos easily. I think you said your kit gives optimum piping angles which means more efficient which means more power potential. How painful is it to swap turbos?

I just did my Blouch 18gxtr myself Friday, and it was a total pain. Stock location turbos suck quite frankly. With your setup, is it less painful? Trust me, I enjoyed the experience and learning, but it did take longer than I planned. I did scope out the area where I would need to grind, and it wasn’t bad at all with the turbo and ic pipes off. Plenty of room to get in there.

Thanks!!

Harey pretty much hit this one on the mark; the Spoolinator is a more optimized layout for turbine efficiency. This isn't seen so much with peak numbers, but more so in the width of the power curve.

Another benefit is you're not pigeon holed into a rotated kit's specific FMIC or TMIC plumbing. It opens a lot more options for intercooler choices since the compressor is still in the OEM location.

If you're going to be changing turbos a lot, I would likely recommend rotated. If you want a set it and forget it setup, then Spoolinator is the way to go. It's VERY popular with the street race crowd as it is much more difficult to tell how much turbo you're packing when it's tucked down in the OEM location. Stealthy


On turbo choices, I REALLY like the 3067 for the lightning fast response, until I saw the effects of that on the bearings longevity. It's one of those careful what you wish for situations. I have used GTX3071 (older Gen I) and it performed well. Made a bit more power than the 3067, but the 3067 torque onset was just intoxicating. The 3071 Gen II is likely a good compromise but on 92 Oct I wasn't sure it would reach your goal without pushing the tune, and I'd rather exceed expectations than not quite reach them.

[camber]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

On turbo choices, I REALLY like the 3067 for the lightning fast response, until I saw the effects of that on the bearings longevity. It's one of those careful what you wish for situations. I have used GTX3071 (older Gen I) and it performed well. Made a bit more power than the 3067, but the 3067 torque onset was just intoxicating. The 3071 Gen II is likely a good compromise but on 92 Oct I wasn't sure it would reach your goal without pushing the tune, and I'd rather exceed expectations than not quite reach them.

Should I be worried about rod bearing longevity with a built engine(like a IAG Stage 2.5 Subaru EJ25 Closed Deck Short Block with ACL or King Race rod bearings.)?

[rexorama]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

FP 84 as in the GTX3584-R that is sold by FP?

The short answer is no. The 3584 only comes with it's own compressor housing that is larger than the 3582 (35R). So it cannot be shoehorned into that position.

Originally Posted by envader

Hey KillerB - will a FP 84mm turbo inlet be compatible with this kit?

I realize this is a bit old, but you didn't answer his question, mistaking what he asked. If you answered later in the thread I apologize if I missed it. He's asking if Forced Performance's 84mm turbo inlet hose will work with your kit, not FP's turbo. Just the inlet hose. Since the choices for larger inlet hoses st stock location are limited what have you used and recommend?

[subaru_gc8]

Originally Posted by kcinsparks

KillerB, thank you. Very informative as usual. I’m trying to justify spending the couple grand on built heads (BC cams) vs not touching them at all vs doing the Ferrea setup like you mentioned while leaving cams alone. I do want reliability and a few extra ponies wouldn’t hurt either. But I do want fun quick spool too.

Just FYI I picked up your pan/baffle/pickup kit through a buddy of mine. Just came in to his shop. Now to decide on if/when to switch my Perrin headers for your coated elh. Figure why not since headers have to come off to get the oil pan out. But that puts another dent in the wallet lol.

I see what you mean by 3067 coming on too hard too fast. 3071 being too small, and 3076 being the old go to which now the latest tech makes the 3576 gen 2 the new go to on a 2.5 based on negligible spool difference and more power potential. Seems like 3576 is it then. Thank you for that turbo knowledge.

Now to get your take on Spoolinator vs a rotated kit like ETS makes. My buddy has ETS and is trying to say “it’s better” with no reasons other than he didn’t have to grind the block and he can swap turbos easily. I think you said your kit gives optimum piping angles which means more efficient which means more power potential. How painful is it to swap turbos?

I just did my Blouch 18gxtr myself Friday, and it was a total pain. Stock location turbos suck quite frankly. With your setup, is it less painful? Trust me, I enjoyed the experience and learning, but it did take longer than I planned. I did scope out the area where I would need to grind, and it wasn’t bad at all with the turbo and ic pipes off. Plenty of room to get in there.

Thanks!!

you know if I were to do it again, instead of getting the gtx 3067, I would move to the g25 660. Seems like this little turbo is pretty cool. you get a good response and it still has enough to push up top. or wait til the g30 comes out, that thing should be a beast

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by subaru_gc8

you know if I were to do it again, instead of getting the gtx 3067, I would move to the g25 660. Seems like this little turbo is pretty cool. you get a good response and it still has enough to push up top. or wait til the g30 comes out, that thing should be a beast

The G-series are not directly swappable with the GTX turbos... but we are working on that

Details soon

[subaru_gc8]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

The G-series are not directly swappable with the GTX turbos... but we are working on that

Details soon

So even with the Garrett housings it won't fit?

[grangepack2]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

I've run neither on E85, but I would expect the 3071 to be ~500whp on E85. The 3076 will make probably +50 more, but with more lag. We always recommend the 3576 over the 3076 because it makes a lot more power (another 50 over the 3076), on less boost, and with no significant increase in lag.

Are we talking Gen 2 or Gen 1?

[tsrapophis]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

On turbo choices, I REALLY like the 3067 for the lightning fast response, until I saw the effects of that on the bearings longevity. It's one of those careful what you wish for situations.

I am currently working on a G25-660 project that, when running, I may need to watch out for this. Do you have any guidelines about what oil pressure vs boost threshold causes problems so that I can check my own logs and hopefully prevent this?

PS. Very happy to see you guys involved on this forum. I also like your products, as an engineer they make me happy, which is why I'm running your pan and pickup.

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by tsrapophis

Do you have any guidelines about what oil pressure vs boost threshold causes problems so that I can check my own logs and hopefully prevent this?

The short answer is no. Far too many variables here. If you're pushing the limits on the low end (an easy task with any Subaru engine) you build it accordingly and cross your fingers. There just isn't a such thing as low end power AND long term reliability with a Subaru. Rod bearing size, design, oiling, etc. are all going to make things difficult when it comes to the low side of the rev range. My recommendation is to mimic the OEM spool and power ramp rate to improve long term & higher power longevity.

Originally Posted by tsrapophis

PS. Very happy to see you guys involved on this forum. I also like your products, as an engineer they make me happy, which is why I'm running your pan and pickup.

Thanks so much for your support and the kind words!

[2004-STi]

Almost looks like it should be compatible with RHD

Any confirmation of fitment with RHD?

I'm guessing the Gen2 GTX3584RS doesn't have a compressor housing in 3" though that would make it compatible though

[2slofouru]

I mocked the turbo up with the manifold bolted on with two bolts, to show clearance with a non tgv type long runner manifold. The turbo could even be swung right a little more and not kink the inlet pipe. It's really not a sacrifice to run this style manifold, especially since so many remove tgvs or get aftermarket manifolds. I'm posting the google drive links until I get a better way figured out.

I'm confident the 3582 or 4 would fit without issue, but wanted something more easily streetable to decide if a larger turbo will be in the forecast.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-mO...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-aC...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-U4...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-NR...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-NR...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-I-...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-JV...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-7S...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-7i...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UMO...ew?usp=sharing

[2004-STi]

2slofouru, I was thinking that with right hand drive, a stock location setup might fit the best...as i have to work around the brake booster/master, clutch master and steering shaft now.

Rotated turbo seems to be a huge PITA with RHD.

Granted i have a really amazing fabricator as a friend so I am confident that we can make something happen.

But i was thinking that I would appreciate the little bit extra that the Gen2 GTX3584RS has to offer with the setup I will be running.

going to be slapping a long runner NA mani on there as well with some spacers, would be killer if i can manage a 3" inlet without any pinch on the power steering reservoir if i can remote mount the tank.

[2004-STi]

nvm, keeping a 3" inlet will do just fine.

[2slofouru]

I am going to remote mount my tank, the pump will hit the inlet but not enough to matter. My block is built to handle more than a 3584 can dish out, but I would probably be griping a lot on the street considering how much clutch it would need...and don't want some ratchety sounding multi plate setup.

[2004-STi]

Originally Posted by 2slofouru

I am going to remote mount my tank, the pump will hit the inlet but not enough to matter. My block is built to handle more than a 3584 can dish out, but I would probably be griping a lot on the street considering how much clutch it would need...and don't want some ratchety sounding multi plate setup.

Yeah same here, darton dry sleeves for a 2.1L stroker and 9.5:1 comp.

Should be juicy