|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-15-2010, 09:44 PM | #151 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 204646
Join Date: Mar 2009
|
have you noticed the diff being a lil noisy after this mod, caused by the vibration traveling through the chassi?!?!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
|
01-19-2010, 01:33 AM | #152 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 115299
Join Date: May 2006
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:MY01 2.5RS sedan stm |
Well, probably- Just considering that's what all upgraded bushings will do (add NVH)... But that's why we get them! I'm getting my set soon.
|
01-19-2010, 05:22 AM | #153 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 214110
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Lake Villa
Vehicle:2002 WRX WRB |
i am very interested in tightening up the back of my wrx, and with so many options i am wondering what comments those at perrin have about the heated comparison of theirs and others kits. it seems like Tic has full bushings and the whiteline lock down is a solid bolt, unlike the perrin and tic. my end goal with the car is full out track prepped and timed lap car, so what assurances can you offer that your cheaper sls, can stand up compared to full bushings and solid bolts? do you offer any warranty if your lockdown bolts break or the insert breaks? here is one discussion i have been following.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetra...1-2-price.html |
01-19-2010, 02:48 PM | #154 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
Our rear diff lockdown will add some whine under hard acceleration and low RPM, but it will reduce a lot of movement! The subframe lockdown will only add little NVH since it includes mostly bolts.
The benefits of our diff lockdown is there are no need to press in any bushings! Just remove a nut, insert new bushings, and tighten it back down! We do have a warranty, but I've never seen any of the bolts break ever. The only way I could see a bolt breaking if you got into an accident. |
01-22-2012, 01:55 PM | #155 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 300371
Join Date: Nov 2011
|
wow nice work i should go with a driveshaft like that would have helped my exhaust clearence problem with my exhaust on the center support
|
09-12-2014, 04:03 PM | #156 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 231381
Join Date: Nov 2009
|
Well, not sure if the bolt broke, but something broke.
This is going to sound stupid, but here you go. I bought Kartboy Botox Bolts recently, and went to go install them, not realizing that the PO had already installed Perrin Lockout Bolts. Not knowing what those looked like (until now), I decided to remove the bolts that were currently in the subframe. Used an impact to remove the driver side. Came out easy, realized that I must have pull out a locking subframe bolt and decided to put it back in. At about 3/4 of thew way in, the bolt starts spinning fast. Something snapped in there. The bolt moved in and out about 1/2" but wont come all the way out. I'm stuck with a spinning sub frame bolt. Not sure what broke in there, or even what the hole is welded to, or if the bolt snapped in half. Any ideas on how to get it out? Tried to use a prybar on the bolt head but it wasnt moving. Thanks for your help all. |
09-12-2014, 05:57 PM | #157 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
Sorry to hear about your bolt. It seems like that you broke the weld on the nut in the subframe. That nut is held on just with two small welds, and could break if it's overtightened, or the bolt going through it are marred up. The only way to fix it would be to get it from the top, which would require drilling a hole in the trunk above the nut.
|
09-13-2014, 02:21 AM | #158 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 231381
Join Date: Nov 2009
|
Well, OK. A few questions then because I'm likely going to want to fix this.
1) How do I make sure I'm drilling right above the bolt? 2) What kind and size bit will I need to make a big enough hole to get a socket in there? 3) Can I just replace the nut with a locknut and washer or should I reweld the nut on there (no access to a welder but I could if I had to). 4) Should I just leave it as is? I think there may be some additional noise that wasnt there since this thing broke, and my plan was tightening up the rear end, not loosening it up! Thanks for the advice, it's a bummer but not that big of a deal. PS Love your products! |
09-15-2014, 05:21 PM | #159 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
If you PM me your address, I can send you a picture of about where you're going to want to drill.
You'll want a drill bit the size of the socket, so it'll have to be pretty big. You could replace it with a washer and a nut, that would be easier then to welding a new nut on there. You could leave it the way that it is right now, but it would probably be annoying hearing the bolt loose back there. |
02-13-2015, 11:38 PM | #160 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 413225
Join Date: Feb 2015
|
Sub'd
|
06-06-2015, 07:55 AM | #161 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 319235
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Soddy Daisy,TN
Vehicle:2005 WRX Blouch 18g Aspen White |
I just did the Perrin rear differential lockdown kit yesterday I have one question installing the lockdown bolts driver side the bolt threaded into the empty hole all the way up to the next of the bolt head but on the passenger side it threaded a bit less. I couldn't turn the bolt anymore even with a 3ft breaker bar for more leverage. Is this normal or should I re thread the hole. I took the bolt out several times to make sure it wasn't cross treaded.
|
06-08-2015, 04:19 PM | #162 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
Masters, it could be that either the bolt or the nut is stripped, or maybe there's something in the hole? You don't want to put too much pressure on it, since it could break the welds on the nut in the subframe.
|
11-18-2015, 06:51 PM | #163 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 254317
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Vehicle:2011 STi |
Sorry, I am a little confused now. Can you explain which lockdown kit (differential or subframe) contribute the most to the elimination of the 1st to 2nd gear clunk on a 2011 STi.... I am not sure I like the whine of the rear diff lockdown kit and would like to understand what benefit this kit brings and what I am trading off. Thanks
Last edited by lowbee; 11-18-2015 at 07:17 PM. |
11-18-2015, 07:14 PM | #164 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
I'd say that the subframe lockdown kit will do the most to get rid of the 1st to 2nd clunk. The white from the diff lockdown kit actually isn't too bad, you don't really hear it unless you're really getting on it. Thanks!
|
11-18-2015, 07:20 PM | #165 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 254317
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Vehicle:2011 STi |
Quote:
What order do you recommend for installing the following components to get a progressive improvement ? subframe lockdown, rear diff lockdown, Transmission Mount, pitch stop mount, engine mount.....feel free to add more bushing/mount in the mix |
|
11-18-2015, 07:24 PM | #166 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 186665
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Vehicle:1981 DMC12 304 Stainless |
It's up to you on what order you want to do them, you can't really do it wrong really. The engine bushings and the subframe bushings aren't related, so you can do those independently.
It'd save you time to do the engine related mounts at the same time. But you can do any of them independently, and that'll be fine. |
02-25-2017, 01:38 AM | #167 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region:
VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:1998 JDM Impreza STi V4 GF8 White |
Same for JDM STi wagon?
Quote:
Now my question... Would this same procedure also apply to my '98 Impreza, the difference being that it's a JDM STi wagon? Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 04-14-2017 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Spelling! |
|
04-14-2017, 05:14 PM | #168 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region:
VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:1998 JDM Impreza STi V4 GF8 White |
Not as straightforward as it seems...
Moved my question to Here.
Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 04-15-2017 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Moved to a more appropriate area of the forum. |
09-30-2017, 02:39 PM | #169 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 475383
Join Date: Sep 2017
|
Quote:
Last edited by tree_stone; 09-30-2017 at 04:12 PM. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
DIY Perrin Rear Differential Cover Installation | PERRIN_Ken | Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline | 75 | 02-02-2016 04:07 AM |
Perrin Subframe Lockdown System (SLS) on 2010 WRX Sedan | Blue_Rex | Car Part Reviews | 5 | 04-12-2010 11:02 PM |
Rear diff bushings/ lockdown systems opinions? | mostasz | Newbies & FAQs | 14 | 09-20-2008 09:01 PM |
Perrin Rear Differential Subframe Lockdown | 06blacksti | Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline | 6 | 01-19-2007 04:46 PM |