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Old 05-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #151
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
I don't necessarily have a problem with idle being rich, I just have a problem with the pump running 100% all the time and heating up the fuel for an inefficient burn with a high fuel pressure base.
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Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
I believe the ecu will trigger a code if the fuel were to heat up to a temp that is too high. I have yet to see that code pop up.
Anyone know what the limit is for fuel temp? What do people normally see with the stock pump and controller? Or aftermarket pump and controller?
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:03 PM   #152
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I heat up my fuel too much. I haven't seen an adverse affect yet. I will do some testing to see what I can find out. My ethanol sensor should give me some information on this.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:36 PM   #153
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I heat up my fuel too much. I haven't seen an adverse affect yet. I will do some testing to see what I can find out. My ethanol sensor should give me some information on this.
Levon
If the fuel starts to boil, the air fuel can start leaning out when you get over 50-60% of the pumps capability. I started leaning out around 60% duty cycle when mine started boiling. I let it sit for a while and all was back to normal. I was running out a tank of 93 so I could fill it will race gas. My hardwired pump (aero 340) overruns the stock fpr. Returning excess hot fuel from the engine bay while on the dyno will heat up 1/8th of a tank of 93 pretty quick. I don't have a temperature.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:37 AM   #154
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All OEM tunes will have it (obd2 readable) so if you are on the AP you should have retained jt.

I need to rewire my ethanol sensor becuase link came out with a revision for it, it said fuel was 132 C. I know it wasnt that hot.

If anyone wants to donate so testing can happen this weekend id be willing to beta test lol.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:11 AM   #155
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You could just use a low voltage amplifier and a solid state relay to direct wire your pump while retaining factory duty cycles. You need a voltage signal to amplify the control signal that comes from the factory FPR, and invert it, the solid state relay has a very low switching latency. There are some that are specifically designed for pump control that have current handling capacities in excess of 50A, if you know a little about electronics and have about $60 to spend this is a better option than 100% duty cycle and you can wire multiple pumps to the same relay. You can also wire a failsafe boost cut to a solenoid using the relay output and go to a solenoid normally off (bypass) that turns on and t's the wg to the compressor reference.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #156
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Can you post a diagram and model parts? I'm not electrically inclined but have done all my own wiring so far.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:35 PM   #157
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http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/L165V/497-2933-5-ND/634697


You could use that to invert the factory pwm and pick one of the SSR's that will meet and exceed your total spike amperage for all of your fuel pumps by 1/3 at least.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:44 PM   #158
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Hate to be a annoying but if you already did this can you just list the parts that you used? Model number etc. it will make life easier. If not then that is cool.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:50 PM   #159
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The relay would be specific to your setup, all you need is that part I listed, and a fairly large heatsink for it and the SSR. If you look at the datasheet Vs+ and Vs- are the supply voltage in/return and you wire the factory pwm to the inverted pin, and the output to the + side of the input of the SSR, - input on SSR to GND. On the output side + is for 12v from the battery and - goes to the + side of the fuel pump then just ground the FP to the chassis.
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:55 AM   #160
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Quote:
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The relay would be specific to your setup, all you need is that part I listed, and a fairly large heatsink for it and the SSR. If you look at the datasheet Vs+ and Vs- are the supply voltage in/return and you wire the factory pwm to the inverted pin, and the output to the + side of the input of the SSR, - input on SSR to GND. On the output side + is for 12v from the battery and - goes to the + side of the fuel pump then just ground the FP to the chassis.
don't forget a diode...
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:28 AM   #161
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Ok, so dstroy, you are probably right. I have now gone through a DW300 and a Walbro465 pump. 100% operation is most likely the cause. I have to try to figure out what you are trying to say to work this out. How are external pumps wired? I would assume that they are wired for 100% as well but maybe they do the same wiring as you have described dstroy?
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:04 AM   #162
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I'll use ms paint after work to draw you a schematic. You'll need to do this, or get an aftermarket fpc. The upside of the DIY is that it's easy to expand for multiple high amperage pumps, downside is that it's complicated. I actually used a Zener diode on the op amp out to limit v in to the SSR to +5v.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:54 AM   #163
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I'll use ms paint after work to draw you a schematic. You'll need to do this, or get an aftermarket fpc. The upside of the DIY is that it's easy to expand for multiple high amperage pumps, downside is that it's complicated. I actually used a Zener diode on the op amp out to limit v in to the SSR to +5v.
Your help is greatly appreciated!!! What aftermarket FPC are out there? Is there a model that would work the best for what we are doing?
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:56 AM   #164
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Your help is greatly appreciated!!! What aftermarket FPC are out there? Is there a model that would work the best for what we are doing?
Aeromotive and Weldon make them, somewhat expensive but less expensive than replacing your fuel pump every six months to a year.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:57 AM   #165
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How about this:

http://dccdpro.com/zcart/index.php?m...&products_id=6

Ill look into the ones you listed as well.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:13 AM   #166
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The DCCD pro seems to be what you are describing dstroy but already already put together. Could this be the simple solution?
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:15 AM   #167
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That will do the same thing, and it will end up costing only a little more. Just call them and ask them if it will be able to handle your fp.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:31 AM   #168
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don't mind the messy lines. but this is what the wiring should look like, based on my interpretation of everything.



Finding a SSR that had fast enough cycle times was tricky though, I found this waveform on another thread on here about the fuel pump controller. IF it is accurate, then only two SSR's will be fast enough to keep up with the factory controller.


the two SSR's that come closest to working, assuming that waveform is accurate would be:

1) $84.02
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...859-ND/2780519

Spec sheet here: http://www.crydom.com/en/Products/Ca...c_ip20_100.pdf

^ notice the amp rating dies off above 9000Hz, and you will need to add that largest heat sink they make for it, $24 if I remember.

2) the power I/O HDD-06V75E, will do 20,000 Hz, ( if the waveform is accurate, this is the ONLY relay ive found that can keep up)
http://ww6.aitsafe.com/cf/add.cfm?us...oducts/hdd.htm

Specs:
http://www.power-io.com/products/hdd.htm



And the Diode i would use:
$0.54
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...SCT-ND/1139945

Last edited by bettner12; 06-05-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:46 AM   #169
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We could just use a clock divider to change the pulse width, if they're using more than one pump we might also consider a more rugged diode.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:14 PM   #170
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Thanks guys, I just placed my order for the FPC from DCCDPro. I just liked how it was already built and in a case etc. Hope this is the real solution. The tricky part will be when I add the two pumps that go in the sump tank a few months from now
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:23 PM   #171
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Thanks guys, I just placed my order for the FPC from DCCDPro. I just liked how it was already built and in a case etc. Hope this is the real solution. The tricky part will be when I add the two pumps that go in the sump tank a few months from now
take some pics when you get it?
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:40 PM   #172
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Yes I will take pics when it gets here. Hopefully sometime next week since they are in Canada. I'm going back and forth with them to figure out how to wire this up.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:33 PM   #173
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Yes I will take pics when it gets here. Hopefully sometime next week since they are in Canada. I'm going back and forth with them to figure out how to wire this up.
The wiring should be somewhat straightforward, if they said that it will handle the current demand from your fp then you're good to go, and it's nice to know that this exists because the other options have an inflated cost due to brand and packaging (billet cases).
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:41 PM   #174
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The wiring should be somewhat straightforward, if they said that it will handle the current demand from your fp then you're good to go, and it's nice to know that this exists because the other options have an inflated cost due to brand and packaging (billet cases).
I don't know if you have taken a look at their product but there are five connections that need to be made. Pump (+), Pump (-), Source (+), Source (-) and ECU. Pump (+) and Pump (-) are easy. Source (+) is from the battery. Source (-) I assume connects to the negative that would go back to the OEM FPC. This would mean the source line that I currently have using for the relay will be connected to nothing now. So what wire is the ECU wire?

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Old 06-05-2013, 01:45 PM   #175
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Source + and - are definitely power in, so to battery and chassis. Pump + and - obvious. Ecu, not sure which wire they want.
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