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Old 01-16-2017, 12:05 PM   #1176
gn4rwhals
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Mine's been parked all winter, I start it once a week.

Got a bunch of plans for the spring though!
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:18 PM   #1177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gn4rwhals View Post
Mine's been parked all winter, I start it once a week.

Got a bunch of plans for the spring though!
You're kidding... right? Winter is the time to be driving this car though noting your location I won't think winter tires is a thing in Detroit...

In case you're serious, if you park a car, park it and remove the battery. Starting it cold once a week and idling it for 10 minutes is so bad for the engine.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:58 PM   #1178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
You're kidding... right? Winter is the time to be driving this car though noting your location I won't think winter tires is a thing in Detroit...

In case you're serious, if you park a car, park it and remove the battery. Starting it cold once a week and idling it for 10 minutes is so bad for the engine.
I agree, the oil never gets hot enough. You should actually drive the car for 10+ minutes.
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:05 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
You're kidding... right? Winter is the time to be driving this car though noting your location I won't think winter tires is a thing in Detroit...

In case you're serious, if you park a car, park it and remove the battery. Starting it cold once a week and idling it for 10 minutes is so bad for the engine.
I am in the Detroit area and run winters. Our weather is sporadic as **** but we still typically get plenty of snow to make it worth it..and make it fun
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Old 01-16-2017, 02:31 PM   #1180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
Wouldn't a fueling issue be part of the powertrain warranty? Your mods don't touch fueling so they should honor the warranty. Besides, they don't pay for it, they bill Subaru Japan, dealers love doing warranty work.
I don't know about Subaru specifically, but I've heard that some brands will pay techs less per hour for warranty work than for regular work that a customer pays for.
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:09 PM   #1181
gn4rwhals
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
You're kidding... right? Winter is the time to be driving this car though noting your location I won't think winter tires is a thing in Detroit...

In case you're serious, if you park a car, park it and remove the battery. Starting it cold once a week and idling it for 10 minutes is so bad for the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
I agree, the oil never gets hot enough. You should actually drive the car for 10+ minutes.
The car is aired down (yes air ride) on wood blocks and has a battery tender on it. I also let it idle and run for 20 minutes with auto climate on so the engine reaches temperature. I have a beater I drive through Detroit everyday. The WRX would be destroyed at this point if I daily drove it.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:11 PM   #1182
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Why would it be destroyed?

Seems Detroit has perfectly decent roads and climate.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:45 PM   #1183
gn4rwhals
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
Why would it be destroyed?

Seems Detroit has perfectly decent roads and climate.
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Old 01-17-2017, 12:55 PM   #1184
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Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
Why would it be destroyed?

Seems Detroit has perfectly decent roads and climate.
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Old 01-17-2017, 01:59 PM   #1185
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They tried filling in the potholes with spent shell casings from the inner city - then they ran out of potholes.
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Old 01-17-2017, 02:07 PM   #1186
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Dunno, I did google maps in detroit, roads aren't great but not horrible either. About the same where I live. It's a WRX, it can take it. Besides, snow fills potholes and the potholes are still gonna be there during spring and summer. Really not seeing the logic here...
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Old 01-17-2017, 03:00 PM   #1187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
Dunno, I did google maps in detroit, roads aren't great but not horrible either. About the same where I live. It's a WRX, it can take it. Besides, snow fills potholes and the potholes are still gonna be there during spring and summer. Really not seeing the logic here...
Detroit doesn't get that much snow and the Michigan DOT likes to lay cones and disappear. They are pretty bad every spring. Detroit is nothing compared to Flint roads, though.
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Old 01-17-2017, 03:06 PM   #1188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
Dunno, I did google maps in detroit, roads aren't great but not horrible either. About the same where I live. It's a WRX, it can take it. Besides, snow fills potholes and the potholes are still gonna be there during spring and summer. Really not seeing the logic here...
..because there is none....
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Old 01-17-2017, 04:56 PM   #1189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playslikepage71 View Post
Detroit doesn't get that much snow and the Michigan DOT likes to lay cones and disappear. They are pretty bad every spring. Detroit is nothing compared to Flint roads, though.
I used to drive to Flint once a week, to call those things roads would be pushing it.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:57 PM   #1190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gn4rwhals View Post
I used to drive to Flint once a week, to call those things roads would be pushing it.
It's like a web of pavement around a bunch of tire eating potholes. You can literally tell when you've gotten to Flint because the roads immediately degrade to some post-apocalyptic level of ****e.
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:29 PM   #1191
gn4rwhals
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playslikepage71 View Post
It's like a web of pavement around a bunch of tire eating potholes. You can literally tell when you've gotten to Flint because the roads immediately degrade to some post-apocalyptic level of ****e.
Couple that with the poisoned water and you have real life Fallout 4.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:13 PM   #1192
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Yep. Although expensive, at the end of the day, it's just a mechanical machine. I am excited to build the engine, and continue to drive the car again!

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You can either park it or drive it. I'm driving mine.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:21 AM   #1193
oldzman1960
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Question is it the same motor in the 2017?

i got a 1000 miles a good break-in period my Mn Subi Site told me to come here and check this out about the FA20 dit motor, what does DIT stand for?

"If i plan to Mod my WRX" (this is coming from a Motor Head)

First and foremost get a good tuneup (the engine is sensitive to Mods and tuning)

Second with his experience, he said "the RODS are weak"

Last advice is "Make sure i downshift @ low speed/Higher Gear because like he said the RODS are weak

If you remember somethings remain stock now your asking it to get hotter, or running it faster bound to be these issues you speak of and if its heavily modified its a roll of the dice that subi will cover it am i right?
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:38 AM   #1194
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You know everyone keeps going on about high load at low rpm a but the stupid CVT in my fxt is constantly using lots of boost at low tpms rather than reving up and I am not seeing a lot of blown fa20's in fxt's or CVT wrx's. I mean I don't have statistics to back it up but it just feels that way. On the other hand the cvts are failing left and right.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:50 AM   #1195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldzman1960 View Post
i got a 1000 miles a good break-in period my Mn Subi Site told me to come here and check this out about the FA20 dit motor, what does DIT stand for? (Direct Injection Turbo)

"If i plan to Mod my WRX" (this is coming from a Motor Head)

First and foremost get a good tuneup (the engine is sensitive to Mods and tuning)- A good tune is probably the best bang for the buck mod on these cars hands down.

Second with his experience, he said "the RODS are weak" -Well, I wouldn't say they are weak for stock or lightly modded, but typically they can become an issue above 350 wheel torque.

Last advice is "Make sure i downshift @ low speed/Higher Gear because like he said the RODS are weak- This is just good advice for any force inducted car. It's not always good to lug the engine at low RPM with a lot of boost and cylinder pressure. It's easier to simply downshift so it's in the appropriate power band.

If you remember somethings remain stock now your asking it to get hotter, or running it faster bound to be these issues you speak of and if its heavily modified its a roll of the dice that subi will cover it am i right?
- Not really a roll of the dice. They typically will NOT cover it if there are mods on the vehicle. But this can depend on your relationship with the dealer.
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:50 AM   #1196
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Originally Posted by Celery GT-5 View Post
You know everyone keeps going on about high load at low rpm a but the stupid CVT in my fxt is constantly using lots of boost at low tpms rather than reving up and I am not seeing a lot of blown fa20's in fxt's or CVT wrx's. I mean I don't have statistics to back it up but it just feels that way. On the other hand the cvts are failing left and right.
they run a torque converter on the cvt, which is basically a power sponge that reduces the load on the engine at those lower rpm/high boost conditions whereas manual is direct drive and transfers most of that power to the wheels, so more load on the engine.

really? i thought they were holding up pretty well. my friend's fxt has tons of km on it.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:46 AM   #1197
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Idk Facebook is full of failure stories. Also if the car is making boost, then the engine has to be under similar load, doesn't it?

Last edited by Celery GT-5; 01-18-2017 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:24 PM   #1198
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IMO I think the stock tune makes it much easier to bed a rod or detonate since its so easy to build boost with just minimal throttle input at low rpm, with just the basic cobb ots stage 1 on my stock car I have to actually try to build boost and have much more range to just play with the NA engine power.

Also I always stay above 2000 rpms.

I'm prob only guy on here who's gonna go stage 2 and run only 14.7 PSI Max boost.

TBH I think a single scroll turbo with UEL would be so much better, sometimes turbo lag is a good think. So you build the same boost past 3k rpms boo hoo shift down. It was scary as **** pushing 14-16 PSI at 2400 rpms w/o even trying, so glad it doesnt happen now I have the accessport.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:46 PM   #1199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
i thought they were holding up pretty well. my friend's fxt has tons of km on it.
My wife's FXT with a J-Pipe (just our front pipe) and pro-tune made ~60wtq/hp over stock and the original tranny lasted 32K miles. At 55K miles now and I'm crossing my fingers.
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:24 PM   #1200
playslikepage71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
they run a torque converter on the cvt, which is basically a power sponge that reduces the load on the engine at those lower rpm/high boost conditions whereas manual is direct drive and transfers most of that power to the wheels, so more load on the engine.
This. The CVT can also move ratios to keep the load down in concert with the TC. If you were to give it more throttle and up the requested torque, it will shift to higher RPM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CFM56 View Post
IMO I think the stock tune makes it much easier to bed a rod or detonate since its so easy to build boost with just minimal throttle input at low rpm, with just the basic cobb ots stage 1 on my stock car I have to actually try to build boost and have much more range to just play with the NA engine power.

Also I always stay above 2000 rpms.

I'm prob only guy on here who's gonna go stage 2 and run only 14.7 PSI Max boost.

TBH I think a single scroll turbo with UEL would be so much better, sometimes turbo lag is a good think. So you build the same boost past 3k rpms boo hoo shift down. It was scary as **** pushing 14-16 PSI at 2400 rpms w/o even trying, so glad it doesnt happen now I have the accessport.
Go ahead and take off the tinfoil hat so you can hear me. Staying above 2000 RPMs doesn't do you any good. The failure is happening because of higher boost levels than whats possible below 2k RPM. Cylinder pressures are peaking when boost gets up near 20 PSI which won't happen until like 2800 RPM on a car with a downpipe, or higher on a stock car if you tune it. The worst thing you can do for your rods is the downpipe because of how much earlier the boost comes on.

That being said, if your tuner is worth what you pay them, they should be able to tame your boost at low RPMs with just WGDC. You can have 20 PSI on pump gas, just don't let it come on fully until you're well past 3k rpm.
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