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Old 10-17-2018, 10:51 AM   #1
Nautilus802
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Default 2016 WRX "Check Engine" light....

Hi there. I have a 2016 WRX with 109,000 miles on it and have had basically zero issues with the car other than a defective A/C compressor very early on that was replaced under warranty.

Today, on my normal highway commute, I pulled out to pass another car while in 6th gear (I did not floor the throttle--just a normal pass where you are going about 5 mph faster than the slower car--I am aware of the risks with high compression turbo engines) and as soon as I started speeding up, the check engine light came on. I did have a carbon build up service performed about 50,000 miles ago and the normal scheduled maintenance and oil changes.

I had to continue to drive to work another 25 miles. I drove the car normally as I would and did not perceive any sort of limp mode or reduced performance. When I got to work, I turned the car off and then back on and the check engine light was still there.

I would assume this could mean just about anything, but are there any known issues with the early FA WRXs that could cause the "Check Engine" light to come on? If not, does anyone have any theories?

Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:56 AM   #2
vlad11591
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Sorry to hear man.

You'll probably want to get the code for the CEL before diagnosis.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:02 AM   #3
Nautilus802
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Yeah, I was just boasting to another Subaru owner at work how much I loved the car and how it had been totally reliable. Oh well, I suppose racking up 109,000 miles before an issue like this isn't bad. I'm praying it is something simple.
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:26 AM   #4
ragman
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places like Autozone willread the codes for you for free. Come back here and share the error code(s)
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:57 AM   #5
Schoat333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilus802 View Post
Yeah, I was just boasting to another Subaru owner at work how much I loved the car and how it had been totally reliable. Oh well, I suppose racking up 109,000 miles before an issue like this isn't bad. I'm praying it is something simple.
wow that is a lot of miles. It could really be anything. Let us know what it ends up being. I am curious now.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:27 PM   #6
Nautilus802
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Went to Autozone, and it is throwing:

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

I assume this means I need to get the catalytic converter replaced.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:34 PM   #7
Nautilus802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoat333 View Post
wow that is a lot of miles. It could really be anything. Let us know what it ends up being. I am curious now.
Don't know why I said 2016. It's actually a 2015. I drive about 120 miles for my commute to work each day. Got rid of an E46 M3 because I didn't think it was worth subjecting it to that type of mileage. Honestly, the chassis on the WRX is every bit as good and the engine is up there too. On a dry twisty road, yes I would take the M3 any day, but if it is even slightly wet it is not even close. The only letdown for me of the FA WRX is the clunky and unsmooth 6 speed--it is probably the worst in terms of feel of any car I have ever driven.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:52 PM   #8
BHOD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilus802 View Post
Don't know why I said 2016. It's actually a 2015. I drive about 120 miles for my commute to work each day. Got rid of an E46 M3 because I didn't think it was worth subjecting it to that type of mileage. Honestly, the chassis on the WRX is every bit as good and the engine is up there too. On a dry twisty road, yes I would take the M3 any day, but if it is even slightly wet it is not even close. The only letdown for me of the FA WRX is the clunky and unsmooth 6 speed--it is probably the worst in terms of feel of any car I have ever driven.
Maybe you already know but you could really improve the feeling of the stick with some cheap and easy mods:
- Shifter stop (Perrin, etc)
- shifter bushing (Perrin, etc)

and maybe a short shifter adapter plate like the Boomba.
http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru...plate-2015-wrx
(I'm on the fence to order one and install it in the same time of my Perrin brass bushing still in his box)
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:57 PM   #9
Nautilus802
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So my dealership just quoted me $1500 to replace the catalytic converter. Yikes.

I called a local muffler shop, and they said only dealers can get the OEM CC and that he wasn't sure if he could put a universal CC until he looked under the car.

The price for replacing with a universal CC is about $450. I believe the much lower cost is because they just cut out the CC instead of replacing the entire OEM assembly/pipe.

I know going OEM is the best route, but 3x as expensive makes me want to go the universal CC route. Is this a bad idea?
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:36 PM   #10
Luizwrx17
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Dude, you should totally get an aftermarket downpipe with cat- i ordered one online for $600 on import image racing.

Might be worth the extra cash for a little bit more umph, although you'd need to tune the car, so might not be worth it if you're not into that stuff.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:42 PM   #11
Obviously Tyler
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Yeah I agree. ^

Accessport and catted j-pipe. Fix your problem and gain some power for likely a couple hundred bucks less.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:44 PM   #12
Nautilus802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luizwrx17 View Post
Dude, you should totally get an aftermarket downpipe with cat- i ordered one online for $600 on import image racing.

Might be worth the extra cash for a little bit more umph, although you'd need to tune the car, so might not be worth it if you're not into that stuff.
I would rather just keep it OEM TBH. I drive this thing a ton and don't want to mess with anything that could remotely affect reliability.

The OEM pipe and cat looks like it costs about $700.

What should installation reasonably cost?
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:59 PM   #13
Nautilus802
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I'm taking it to kozmic motorsport in Houston. They do aftermarket/tuning stuff and they said they will check it out and give me some recommendations. I know it could be bad/dirty O2 sensors or apparently even just a bad intake gasket that can cause the error code, so hopefully they will be straight with me about the recommended course.

Last edited by Nautilus802; 10-17-2018 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:22 PM   #14
Nautilus802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luizwrx17 View Post
Dude, you should totally get an aftermarket downpipe with cat- i ordered one online for $600 on import image racing.

Might be worth the extra cash for a little bit more umph, although you'd need to tune the car, so might not be worth it if you're not into that stuff.
Are you also running an aftermarket cat back exhaust?
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Old 10-17-2018, 05:32 PM   #15
dooglaz
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l still have my stock jpipe with cats in my garage. You should be able to find someone local that still has theirs after going stage 2
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:07 PM   #16
GlarryHoodDIT
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Originally Posted by dooglaz View Post
l still have my stock jpipe with cats in my garage. You should be able to find someone local that still has theirs after going stage 2
This.

This guy wants $200 for the entire OEM TBE, seems a little cheaper than the dealership. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2879080

Find someone like that local to you (or just get it shipped from the seller) and save yourself 10x the cost.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #17
Luizwrx17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilus802 View Post
I would rather just keep it OEM TBH. I drive this thing a ton and don't want to mess with anything that could remotely affect reliability.

The OEM pipe and cat looks like it costs about $700.

What should installation reasonably cost?
I asked the tuner that i'm using to write me an estimate for the mods that i'm installing out of curiosity, and i think for the downpipe, they were asking something like $200.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilus802 View Post
Are you also running an aftermarket cat back exhaust?
Not yet, but probably will eventually. Just need to find the right one that isn't too loud.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlarryHoodDIT View Post
This.

This guy wants $200 for the entire OEM TBE, seems a little cheaper than the dealership. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2879080

Find someone like that local to you (or just get it shipped from the seller) and save yourself 10x the cost.

That's what i would do if there were no plans to go through the aftermarket tuner scene.
It may also help to join a local buy/sell/trade subaru group on facebook- that should improve your chances of finding a factory downpipe.
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Old 02-16-2019, 02:56 PM   #18
Cmiller95
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Sorry to bring up an older thread. Were you able to resolve this? I'm in the same boat, 2015 50,000 miles, completely stock. Its thrown a P0420 twice in the last couple days. I plan to start with cleaning the MAF and running seafoam through it. Brand new Subaru air filter just went in as well. No drivability issues at all.
Thanks!
Colton
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Old 02-16-2019, 03:47 PM   #19
Backroad Rex
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Unless your looking for an excuse to buy a new J pipe or TBE (which is totally fine), might want to test the downstream O2 sensor first. Could be a $ 100 fix vs $ 900.
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Old 02-16-2019, 06:11 PM   #20
Cmiller95
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I'm familiar with tuning older efi V8 cars but the 4 cyl turbo is a bit of a new world for me. To test that downstream O2 what software do I need/cables? I'm assuming the Accessport will be able to meet those needs and show me the signal output from the O2?
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:48 PM   #21
Backroad Rex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmiller95 View Post
I'm familiar with tuning older efi V8 cars but the 4 cyl turbo is a bit of a new world for me. To test that downstream O2 what software do I need/cables? I'm assuming the Accessport will be able to meet those needs and show me the signal output from the O2?
I use the Torque Pro app and a cheap OBDII unit. O2 1x2 is the downstream O2 sensor. Readings (in volts) should be steady. If they bounce between 0.1 and 0.9 it's probably a bad cat. A bad O2 sensor will read 0.
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:22 AM   #22
Mulder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmiller95 View Post
Sorry to bring up an older thread. Were you able to resolve this? I'm in the same boat, 2015 50,000 miles, completely stock. Its thrown a P0420 twice in the last couple days. I plan to start with cleaning the MAF and running seafoam through it. Brand new Subaru air filter just went in as well. No drivability issues at all.
Thanks!
Colton
The OP last logged onto the forums back in October to post this thread and hasn't been back since, so don't expect an answer.
However, since your car is at only 50K and stock you are covered by the Federal 8/80 emissions warranty which includes the cat. Before you mess with it yourself have it checked by a dealer, if they verify the cat is bad you should get a new one at no cost.
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