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Old 11-15-2017, 06:10 PM   #2601
...CHUCKLES...
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^^^ very nice, love the gauge location
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:46 PM   #2602
stu
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I like those colors but that seems a little too excessive to me! But to each his own, you have great attention to detail.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:51 PM   #2603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ...CHUCKLES... View Post
love the gauge location
Wonder why!?
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:03 AM   #2604
Boxer4turbo2004
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:12 AM   #2605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu View Post
I like those colors but that seems a little too excessive to me!
I tend to think the same now that it is coming together. Will see if the snorkel will help with that a little.
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:09 AM   #2606
Scuby04STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rozsko View Post
I tend to think the same now that it is coming together. Will see if the snorkel will help with that a little.
To be honest I would have to kinda agree, but more so in the sense I dont see consistency in what parts got what color. I think having all the hard parts gray and hoses/rubber be the orange, or something along those lines would look better. But it aint mine so you do you as mentioned, lol.

Color aside good job on the general layout to things, hard to make these look nice with all the hoses involved.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:29 PM   #2607
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Default My mods to a NA intake for EJ257 build

This went into my 2008 STi. I am running a Kaminari reverse scoop CF hood so your clearance issues may vary from what I experienced. I was able to use KS Tech 13mm phenolic spacers. I purchased the perfect length Allen head cap screws from McMaster Carr along with thick washers to hold it on.
You may very well experience fuel rail to AVCS solenoid clearance issues unless you use Cosworth rails. I was able to get Boomba rails to fit but I had to machine the solenoid bracket to take a flat-head screw to have clearance. I later added Radium fuel dampers to the Cosworth rails so I abandoned the idea of using the Boomba rails. I had wanted to use at least one Boomba on the right side since there would be no fuel fittings near the hot turbo.
Rather than using one of several aftermarket options for adapters for top-mount injectors, I chose to weld a mounting plate that straddles the two runners. I turned solid dummy injectors to use as a jig for locating the plate. This worked out well as I reduced the number of loose, bolted together pieces that comprise most adapter kits. I did a secondary operation of notching my plates so bolts could drop-in easily on the middle holes of the manifold flange. This and other pictures can be seen in this NASIOC post. Those pics clearly show my welded-in plates and mock-up injectors in place.
Note: These inner holes should line up with the tapped holes in the heads. Worst case is they will need a bit of enlarging to account for variances in gasket thickness, machining, etc. It is the outermost holes on the manifold that must be slotted. There is not a lot of material so I suggest careful slotting and not just running a big drill through the hole. As noted, I used a thick washer to better distribute the load in these spots.

This shows the partially modified underneath area. I welded in a 1/8" NPT bung for a vacuum sensor in plenum hole.

I left some tabs with 6mm threads as I felt they might come in handy later. Some did.
As to clearance at the throttle body boot: I cut off the end off a silicone boot at an angle to allow it to be lower when clamped to the throttle body. I also made it as short as possible.

Some have cut off the front of the plenum or cut off the throttle body mounting plate area and rewelded it at a flatter angle. Others have made an adapter "wedge" that lowers the throttle body. I didn't have to do any of that but my 90 boot is snug against the hood but has stood the test of time on the track. I think on my next build I will cut off the throttle body mounting area and re-weld it in a more vertical position.
Perhaps lastly, I used a small 50 amp alternator. It's a track car... I used a timing belt idler, like I see used in kits (?) but it is located on the stock alternator tensioner bracket. The alternator stand is slightly modified to accommodate the smaller alternator. I then made my own tensioner from McMaster Carr parts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg alpha motor (5).jpg (99.4 KB, 271 views)
File Type: jpg intercooler out pipe.jpg (118.9 KB, 272 views)
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Old 11-26-2017, 08:36 PM   #2608
bue car
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Very nice
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:18 AM   #2609
its_ikes
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There are some awesome builds in here, plenty of ideas to gather up for my build. Can't believe how clean reversed manifold setups are, makes me excited to get mine done.
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Old 11-28-2017, 12:13 PM   #2610
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by its_ikes View Post
There are some awesome builds in here, plenty of ideas to gather up for my build. Can't believe how clean reversed manifold setups are, makes me excited to get mine done.
Leaves a lot of room in the back and more underneath the manifold. Behind becomes a great spot for A/OS setups and fuel regulator. Ditching the A/C and a smaller alternator makes it even cleaner. In many/most instances the compressor outlet to FMIC can go under the manifold.
Among other things, I ditched the throttle body heating and made an aluminum T for the heads to case venting which eliminated a lot of vent hose.
Ignore the temporary mounting I did of the stock coolant expansion tank. I moved it to behind the manifold as well.
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File Type: jpg alpha (3 of 6).jpg (123.2 KB, 244 views)

Last edited by Scargod; 11-28-2017 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Added comment
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:24 PM   #2611
its_ikes
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I've been thinking about relocating my expansion tank to the rear as well. Might ditch my Mishimoto for a custom cylinder style.
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:42 PM   #2612
bue car
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There does that breather pipe go to? I need to find your build
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:36 AM   #2613
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my progress




edited:

trying to figure out how to attach the coolant line from AOS to the strut bar neatly, any ideas?

Last edited by Hyper; 02-24-2018 at 02:09 PM. Reason: because for reasons
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:50 AM   #2614
kellygnsd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bue car View Post
There does that breather pipe go to? I need to find your build
You talking about Scargod's picture? If its an STi the second unbaffled crank-case breather gets T'd to the second vent on the cylinder heads. The other breather with the AN fittings is probably going towards a catch can or AOS or PCV system
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:04 AM   #2615
rozsko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
This went into my 2008 STi. I am running a Kaminari reverse scoop CF hood so your clearance issues may vary from what I experienced. I was able to use KS Tech 13mm phenolic spacers. I purchased the perfect length Allen head cap screws from McMaster Carr along with thick washers to hold it on.
You may very well experience fuel rail to AVCS solenoid clearance issues unless you use Cosworth rails. I was able to get Boomba rails to fit but I had to machine the solenoid bracket to take a flat-head screw to have clearance. I later added Radium fuel dampers to the Cosworth rails so I abandoned the idea of using the Boomba rails. I had wanted to use at least one Boomba on the right side since there would be no fuel fittings near the hot turbo.
Rather than using one of several aftermarket options for adapters for top-mount injectors, I chose to weld a mounting plate that straddles the two runners. I turned solid dummy injectors to use as a jig for locating the plate. This worked out well as I reduced the number of loose, bolted together pieces that comprise most adapter kits. I did a secondary operation of notching my plates so bolts could drop-in easily on the middle holes of the manifold flange. This and other pictures can be seen in this NASIOC post. Those pics clearly show my welded-in plates and mock-up injectors in place.
Note: These inner holes should line up with the tapped holes in the heads. Worst case is they will need a bit of enlarging to account for variances in gasket thickness, machining, etc. It is the outermost holes on the manifold that must be slotted. There is not a lot of material so I suggest careful slotting and not just running a big drill through the hole. As noted, I used a thick washer to better distribute the load in these spots.

This shows the partially modified underneath area. I welded in a 1/8" NPT bung for a vacuum sensor in plenum hole.

I left some tabs with 6mm threads as I felt they might come in handy later. Some did.
As to clearance at the throttle body boot: I cut off the end off a silicone boot at an angle to allow it to be lower when clamped to the throttle body. I also made it as short as possible.

Some have cut off the front of the plenum or cut off the throttle body mounting plate area and rewelded it at a flatter angle. Others have made an adapter "wedge" that lowers the throttle body. I didn't have to do any of that but my 90 boot is snug against the hood but has stood the test of time on the track. I think on my next build I will cut off the throttle body mounting area and re-weld it in a more vertical position.
Perhaps lastly, I used a small 50 amp alternator. It's a track car... I used a timing belt idler, like I see used in kits (?) but it is located on the stock alternator tensioner bracket. The alternator stand is slightly modified to accommodate the smaller alternator. I then made my own tensioner from McMaster Carr parts.
How did you modify the alternator bracket? I guess the reason was to offset the path of the belt?
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Old 02-24-2018, 01:08 PM   #2616
Scargod
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silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bue car View Post
There does that breather pipe go to? I need to find your build
I guess I've been AWOL... I believe NASIOC has eliminated signatures. I had a link there to my build page, etc. I guess NASIOC wants to shoot themselves in the foot. Pretty soon they won't allow links.
You can find my build page here, at the "other place".However, because of limitations, I have many, many more pictures on Shutterfly. The pipe is T'd into the large, unbaffled vents on the heads. The T-pipe really cleans things up!
I did it to clear the throttle-body! I milled down the width of the bracket to fit the small alternator. That, and I cleaned off any extraneous areas on the casting and relieved it and the alternator (just a bit) so it could swing down low enough to work with the belt/tensioner I created. The tensioner was built from McMaster-Carr bits.
Though I'm guessing, I think you might could use the stock alternator there if you repositioned the dipstick and (if using this NA manifold) shave off the boss with two holes, that I left on (in case it would be useful later).
My setup has work flawlessly for 20 hours on the track at up to 8K RPM's.
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Old 02-24-2018, 01:15 PM   #2617
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
my progress...
trying to figure out how to attach the coolant line from AOS to the expansion tank in a neat way (suggestions???), and will also swap the expansion tank cover so the nipple for the AOS line is pointing to the right, and not at 45* angle as it is now
Nice, clean setup! I like the relocations.
As to how to do the return: there's always welding. Top could have a bung welded to it. On my "plastic fantastic" tank I tapped the bottom center of the tank 1/8" NPT for a water temp sensor. I did beef it up with a little epoxy for good measure. It has held for over 50 hours.
Your pic reminded me: I am about finished with my custom tower stiffener. Since the intake is reversed there is room to go straight across. TSS Fab sells the laser cut plates to mount on the top of the towers. I bought 1" thin-walled chromoly tubing to weld to it. Pics/update to come.. almost done.

Last edited by Scargod; 02-24-2018 at 01:22 PM. Reason: added more
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Old 02-24-2018, 01:45 PM   #2618
Hyper
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sorry, I was thinking one thing, and typing another

I swapped the expansion tank cover and updated the picture in that post

what I meant is that I am trying to find a nice way to attach the coolant line from the AOS to the strut bar, see how its zip tied now?

so far my best idea is getting one of these for AN10



and drilling out one of the holes to fit the strut bar (strut bar OD is 23mm, hose is 20mm)

Last edited by Hyper; 02-24-2018 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 02-24-2018, 03:13 PM   #2619
bue car
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Replace the line with a custom bent SS one that contours to the car.
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Old 02-24-2018, 03:56 PM   #2620
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bue car View Post
Replace the line with a custom bent SS one that contours to the car.
I like the way this man thinks. Or just use bailing wire. You could make these work.
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Old 02-25-2018, 12:26 AM   #2621
beef
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Old 02-25-2018, 01:00 AM   #2622
bue car
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I need to see in person sometime!
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:43 AM   #2623
Scargod
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Beef: Nice looking and clean. Street car? Power, build list, etc.? Dyno chart? Precision 6266?
Would like to know especially if it's a street car since I am building a similar setup for the street and limited track use.
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:21 PM   #2624
beef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Beef: Nice looking and clean. Street car? Power, build list, etc.? Dyno chart? Precision 6266?
Would like to know especially if it's a street car since I am building a similar setup for the street and limited track use.
I drive it on the street sometimes, but many would argue it's not a "street car". Especially in good ol' Commiefornia. It started out to be, but thing just got way out of control. Took me 3 years to "finish". I built it entirely by myself in my garage, with the only help being from my best friend who fabricated the header, exhaust, intercooler piping, and the throttle body spacer on the intake manifold. Im gonna do a build thread one day, when i'm not so busy.

There is literally less than 5% oem subaru parts on this car besides the body. The short list would be
Built 2.5L - Stock S20 Heads with Shimless buckets and CC work.
PTE Gen2 6266
TSS Fab Front and Rear Subframes
DSS Carbon Driveshaft
Built 6 Speed with PPG Gears and Billet Everything
Perrin Intercooler
Fuel Cell, Swirl Pot, Dual Bosch 044's on a hobbs switch..
-10an to -8an lines
ID2000's IAG Rails w/ Dampers
Kirkey Seats
All supporting mods like IAG AOS, Tial EWG etc..
Every Suspension mod made..

Etuned by Ron Watson (Phatron)
Makes 600Whp @ 35+ psi (Airboy or VD)
Weighs 2650lbs
E85 only
Built to run 9's and go around a track
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:15 PM   #2625
bue car
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
You talking about Scargod's picture? If its an STi the second unbaffled crank-case breather gets T'd to the second vent on the cylinder heads. The other breather with the AN fittings is probably going towards a catch can or AOS or PCV system
Essentially closing them off leaving only the baffled ports to vent on each head? Or maybe I am misreading like usual
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