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11-22-2012, 08:00 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 305528
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BAIC
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Vehicle:2011 WRX Black |
Jack point failure
I was jacking up my car using the oem jack, placed it under the front jack point. I've done this at least a dozen times by now, so when I heard a cracking noise followed up by a loud thump, I thought to myself, "FK"
I had stepped away to grab a jack stand when it happened, this is the aftermath: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12397062/image_1.jpeg I'm just glad I wasn't under the car when it happened, can I file a claim with subaru? Not looking to pay 400 bucks for a new pair of OEM side skirts that failed so hard.
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11-22-2012, 08:39 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
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NESIC
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Looks to me like you were lifting it on the side skirt, not the jack point. I lift on the inside of the frame seam/pinch weld, never had a problem lifting any corner out of hundreds of times doing so.
Definitely not a warranty or defect issue unless you literally punched through your frame somehow, and THAT I would like to see |
11-22-2012, 10:01 PM | #3 |
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ya looks like you were not in the correct spot. If where you were jacking is where that picture is pointing, you were in the middle of the vehicle. You're supposed to use the OEM jack pretty much right beside the wheel well. There is a reinforced section of the pinch seam for it to sit on.
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11-22-2012, 11:17 PM | #4 |
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Sorry bud, I agree with the other gents before me, looks like you were using the sideskirts for support, and not that pinch weld.
Way to....jack up your own car. |
11-22-2012, 11:53 PM | #5 |
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doh
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11-23-2012, 06:37 PM | #6 |
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You know if people just read their damn owners manual when trying to do things or figure stuff out there would be a lot less issues.
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11-23-2012, 07:40 PM | #7 |
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Vehicle:2024 Legacy Sport |
Wow... you jacked up from the sideskirt? Did you not notice the reinforced metal jacking point? Going to go out on a limb and say Subaru isn't going to pay for them... good luck...
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11-23-2012, 07:44 PM | #8 |
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11-23-2012, 07:49 PM | #9 |
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you might want to peek under while jacking next time. if you were on the pinch weld, there is no way that would happen.
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11-23-2012, 09:07 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
you're now going to have to pay $400 bucks for a new pair of sideskirts because YOU failed so hard. i'd venture to say that you should learn from this lesson, and not work on your own car.... |
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11-24-2012, 11:17 AM | #11 |
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You put it too much onto the left side of the skirt... meaning u had all the weight on the skirt... not onto a frame or sturdy point...
common sense man lol |
11-24-2012, 04:34 PM | #12 |
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OP, I have a set of JBP side skirts, 8/10 condition, for sale PM me!
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11-24-2012, 07:29 PM | #13 |
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hes got a 2011 car man
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11-27-2012, 07:24 AM | #14 |
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Doh. Still, is funny he's trying to say the side skirts "failed so hard" when he indeed, failed in putting the jack in the right place.
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11-27-2012, 09:00 AM | #15 |
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For future reference....
There are four reinforced jack points on almost every car. Two on the right, two on the left. Both inboard from the wheels by about 6-12". The re-inforced seam near the rear wheel shown below in the picture fits in the slot on the jack top. The top of the jack should be placed in-between those two dimples. Both sides of the jack top come into contact with the re-inforced portion of the frame made to accept the jack and extra weight, surrounding the seam. This is a standardized design for almost every car made to jack a car using OEM scissor jacks. Only use these points when jacking using the supplied scissor jacks. (There are other places one can jack a car from using better floor jacks, but that is a separate topic). What you did is user error, not a warranty/Subaru issue. Jack point locations and instructions are firmly covered (by law) in every car user manual. Good luck in the repairs. You own the damage. And yes, you are lucky to have not been under the car at the time. Consider this mistake the less costly of the two and learn from it. --kC Last edited by KC; 11-27-2012 at 09:11 AM. |
11-27-2012, 10:46 AM | #16 |
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I really wish they used the same jack point setup of my 2003 MINI Cooper, those rubber block jack points were nice. But yeah, bad mistake on your part, you are lucky you weren't under it!
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11-27-2012, 11:35 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
This guy could have been killed... |
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11-27-2012, 01:46 PM | #18 |
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... did you seriously jack a car up from it's side skirts.
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12-02-2012, 11:41 PM | #19 |
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idk how many of you guys have actually tried to jack up a GR but the side skirts kind of get in the way of the jacking points...its kind of a pain in the ass. I've never done anything quite as fail as the OP, but the bottom of my side skirts aren't too pretty anymore. There are other places to jack it up from but they aren't that easy to reach with my floor jack anyway.
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12-03-2012, 12:03 AM | #20 |
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You can't reach the center of the front cross-member (that's the primary front jacking point when using a floor jack) or the rear differential (that's the rear jacking point)? - if you are going to use a floor jack on the side jacking points, you are supposed to use something to capture the seam... most folks don't have something, but a block of wood would probably work... then again, if you're using a floor jack, why not jack from the two locations designed for that... just sayin'
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12-03-2012, 12:08 AM | #21 |
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If his car is lowered, it's almost impossible to get the front crossmember up with a floor jack. You can't get it up on rhino ramps either.
At least not the conventional way. My friend and I stuck the ramps at an angle behind the front wheels to get the nose high enough for the jack. |
12-03-2012, 12:13 AM | #22 |
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edit: +1 ^^^
yeah probably, you can get it to work without actually destroying your side skirts though, just pinches the bottom plastic a bit while you are putting jack stands under it. on a lowered car I think its hard to reach the front cross member with a floor jack too a block of would would just crush the bottom of the side skirts too, there is only a very small opening in the plastic for the scissor jack I can just barely get my car onto rhino ramps but it scrapes a bit...I only have a 1.2" drop or something...idk the hellafail guys must have issues |
12-03-2012, 12:50 AM | #23 |
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My '11 with Eibach springs had a 13.5" hub to fender distance, and it was about half an inch too low for Rhino ramps. Now that I'm running RCE blacks for STI's, I have about a 5mm lift all around and boy am I glad for it. I think the hella flush gents have to use 2x4's to get up on race ramps.
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12-03-2012, 06:24 AM | #24 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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12-03-2012, 07:11 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
the body seam jack points are designed to be used with the OEM scissor jack. |
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