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05-11-2010, 02:13 PM | #26 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
Great, I'll be looking forward to see the writeup. I picked up some factory switches to use and I was trying to decide which kit to purchase from them.
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05-11-2010, 02:17 PM | #27 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
i've been looking everwhere for factory switches!!! dealer charges $46+ each how much did you get yours for? and where!
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05-11-2010, 02:28 PM | #28 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
9.99 for 2 on eBay. Look for Nissan or Infiniti switches too. Nissan are the ones that actually produce the switch.
Edit: These are used in the late 90's Maximas and early 2000's Infiniti QX4. I'm sure they are used in other vehicles but I know for sure they are used in the Maxima and QX4. Here are the ones I got: Last edited by Felginator; 05-11-2010 at 02:35 PM. |
05-12-2010, 02:13 AM | #29 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
awesome! though i see them for ~20 bucks each at the moment. still better than 46 each.
now... to figure how to hook them up to the kit... |
05-12-2010, 03:12 AM | #30 | |
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Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
Vehicle:i wanna help teh haters ... love life ... |
Quote:
does teh ebay seller have more? |
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05-12-2010, 08:22 AM | #31 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 88963
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle:2005 WRX OBP |
Nice maybe I'll get a new passenger side switch. My light is burned out in the switch
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05-12-2010, 08:48 AM | #32 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
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05-12-2010, 08:49 AM | #33 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
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05-12-2010, 12:23 PM | #34 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 88963
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle:2005 WRX OBP |
i knew that relay in the other diagram was pointless. I guess it's just there because that's how the factory ones are wired.
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05-12-2010, 01:29 PM | #35 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
looks like 4 pins behind each switch then? at work right now, but i remember that four wires also go to the switch that came with the kit.
also, i spent last night troubleshooting why one of my seats did not work. the light on the switch would come on but no heat. I finally found that there was 1 wire that was NOT conductive. i couldn't believe it... and have never seen that before (tested it using a dmm). had to swap out the wire by un-pinning the bad one and re-pinning a new wire. guess the kit wiring isn't top quality. so just a heads up that if your kit doesn't work, test the wires. |
05-16-2010, 06:30 PM | #36 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
Okay, i ordered and received the stock-style switches from Ebay. Looking at the nissan wiring diagram above, i THINK the pins go like this:
(in this order, notch on top) 1 2 3 4 1 = HIGH heat 2 = +12v 3 = Ground 4 = LOW heat Here is what the kit switch looks like. 4 wires going in, but only 3 at the plug... White = +12v Black1 = Ground Black2 = HIGH heat Red = LOW heat Both the HIGH and LOW wires go to this lil circuit board with diodes and resistors.... LOW = 4.64k ohms HIGH = 2.64k ohms (EDIT: all 4 of my switches came wired incorrectly, with low going into the 2.6k instead) Can anyone think of a good method of integrating the stock switch into the kit? Since the kit's control module accepts 3 wires, I'm thinking this: Connect the HIGH and LOW wires together on the stock switch (1 & 4) with inline diodes to prevent backfeed? This would assume that the stock switch has resistors built in... is that a safe assumption? Any other ideas? EDIT: tested for resistance between high/low on switch, and got nothing. so swapping the switch directly should work. Last edited by simonbsays; 05-18-2010 at 01:03 PM. |
05-16-2010, 08:20 PM | #37 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
That's the correct pinout. Is it not possible to just use the existing circuit board and 4 wires with the nissan switch? Just swap the wires from switch to switch?
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05-16-2010, 11:30 PM | #38 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
Okay, i've swapped the switches and connected the wires according to what was figured out earlier.
Before swapping switches, I wasn't able to tell high from low (my butt thermometer must not be calibrated real well). So to test the setup, I measured the voltage after connecting everything to the car. Interestingly, LOW had a higher voltage. I immediately thought I had swapped the wires somehow. Also, the voltage difference seems too low... I'd think low would be like 50% of high or something. Nissan switch High = 8.6V @ 1.99A Low = 9.81V @ 2.34A So I tested the kit's switch when it's all connected for comparison. Kit switch High = 8.42v @ 1.94A Low = 9.91V @ 2.37A These values where tested with a DMM with the negative probe on the black wire of the switch plug (AFTER the circuit board), and the positive probe on the blue (switched) wire, also after the circuit board. This doesn't seem right... but measurements between the two switches are consistent. Am I missing something? |
05-17-2010, 12:08 PM | #39 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
That does seem pretty odd with the voltage readings, most elements on low are roughly 50% of the high setting. Have you tried contacting heatedseatkits?
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05-17-2010, 12:15 PM | #40 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
I sent them an email this morning. They usually take at least a day or two respond though, so... we'll see!
How's your project coming along? |
05-17-2010, 12:53 PM | #41 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
I ordered the elements and have the switches. Just need to find the time to tear the seats apart. Hopefully I can get it done next weekend.
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05-18-2010, 01:00 PM | #42 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
Here's their response from this morning:
Quote:
So... here's a heads up to CHECK THE WIRING! Make sure LOW is with the 4.6k resistor, and HIGH is with the 2.6k. They didn't comment on my voltage readings, but I've sent another email asking if those numbers look right. |
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05-23-2010, 12:31 PM | #43 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:97 Outback Sport |
Have they got back to you yet?
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05-23-2010, 07:49 PM | #44 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
Their response was:
Quote:
Edit: oh yea and... I LOVE HEATED SEATS! one of the best practical mods i've done so far! Last edited by simonbsays; 05-23-2010 at 07:54 PM. |
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05-26-2010, 01:02 AM | #45 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:2006 CGM WRX Wagon XPT Stage II |
So since mojambo already wrote some detailed instructions for the front seats, here's how i did my rear seats:
Tapped directly to battery to ensure I don't overload any existing circuits. (note: the loom of wires going up were for my levelers, and the loom going down is for my puddle lights). Red wire goes straight to battery (with inline 20a fuse). Cat5 is for future projects that require wiring from cabin to engine bay. I added a 5-pin relay (zip tied to metal kickpanel support thing) to switch the power for the rear. For the signal wire, I tapped the same signal wire from the front heated seat relay (which was Acc). Pin 87a currently goes to nothing, but will be energized when Acc is off. I'm sure I'll do some future mod that uses power when car's off. Switched power wire ran to the back, where the rear seat heaters tap in. Didn't have anywhere to put the switch, so I decided to put it on the door. Had to sneak wiring through that lil hose to get out of cabin. Wiring ready for seats to be reinstalled Drilling hole in door for switches! I was scared this could just tear up the nylon skin, but it drilled through quite easily. Results... All put back together: Front factory-style switches in place: |
05-26-2010, 03:43 AM | #46 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
Vehicle:i wanna help teh haters ... love life ... |
damn very nicely done!
i am jealous and wish i had butt warmers in my car |
10-10-2010, 03:57 AM | #47 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 225097
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I just did this to my car. **** hog rings. But heated seats are nice.
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10-10-2010, 01:48 PM | #48 |
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Member#: 260355
Join Date: Oct 2010
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haha. must be cold in canada
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10-11-2010, 08:29 PM | #49 |
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Member#: 225097
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Hey guys, I just wanted to say that I was able to get the relay that's needed (identical to fog/window/etc.) from Pep Boys. It was $7.99 and it is BWD R3154. You can pull your horn relay from the engine bay to match it, they're the same.
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12-31-2010, 05:13 AM | #50 |
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Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
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