Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday March 18, 2024
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Electrical & Lighting

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-11-2010, 02:13 PM   #26
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

Great, I'll be looking forward to see the writeup. I picked up some factory switches to use and I was trying to decide which kit to purchase from them.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 05-11-2010, 02:17 PM   #27
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

i've been looking everwhere for factory switches!!! dealer charges $46+ each how much did you get yours for? and where!
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2010, 02:28 PM   #28
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

9.99 for 2 on eBay. Look for Nissan or Infiniti switches too. Nissan are the ones that actually produce the switch.

Edit: These are used in the late 90's Maximas and early 2000's Infiniti QX4. I'm sure they are used in other vehicles but I know for sure they are used in the Maxima and QX4.


Here are the ones I got:


Last edited by Felginator; 05-11-2010 at 02:35 PM.
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 02:13 AM   #29
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

awesome! though i see them for ~20 bucks each at the moment. still better than 46 each.

now... to figure how to hook them up to the kit...
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 03:12 AM   #30
Evilchargerfan
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 183529
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
Vehicle:
i wanna help teh
haters ... love life ...

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Felginator View Post
9.99 for 2 on eBay. Look for Nissan or Infiniti switches too. Nissan are the ones that actually produce the switch.

Edit: These are used in the late 90's Maximas and early 2000's Infiniti QX4. I'm sure they are used in other vehicles but I know for sure they are used in the Maxima and QX4.


Here are the ones I got:


does teh ebay seller have more?
Evilchargerfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 08:22 AM   #31
maxpower_454
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 88963
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
OBP

Default

Nice maybe I'll get a new passenger side switch. My light is burned out in the switch
maxpower_454 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 08:48 AM   #32
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilchargerfan View Post
does teh ebay seller have more?
These were the only ones he had listed. The ones that are ~ 20 bucks each are worth it because they come with the connectors and a few inches of wire.
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 08:49 AM   #33
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
awesome! though i see them for ~20 bucks each at the moment. still better than 46 each.

now... to figure how to hook them up to the kit...
Here's the wiring diagram for the switch:

Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 12:23 PM   #34
maxpower_454
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 88963
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
OBP

Default

i knew that relay in the other diagram was pointless. I guess it's just there because that's how the factory ones are wired.
maxpower_454 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2010, 01:29 PM   #35
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

looks like 4 pins behind each switch then? at work right now, but i remember that four wires also go to the switch that came with the kit.

also, i spent last night troubleshooting why one of my seats did not work. the light on the switch would come on but no heat. I finally found that there was 1 wire that was NOT conductive. i couldn't believe it... and have never seen that before (tested it using a dmm). had to swap out the wire by un-pinning the bad one and re-pinning a new wire.

guess the kit wiring isn't top quality. so just a heads up that if your kit doesn't work, test the wires.
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2010, 06:30 PM   #36
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

Okay, i ordered and received the stock-style switches from Ebay. Looking at the nissan wiring diagram above, i THINK the pins go like this:

(in this order, notch on top)
1 2
3 4

1 = HIGH heat
2 = +12v
3 = Ground
4 = LOW heat




Here is what the kit switch looks like. 4 wires going in, but only 3 at the plug...

White = +12v
Black1 = Ground
Black2 = HIGH heat
Red = LOW heat




Both the HIGH and LOW wires go to this lil circuit board with diodes and resistors....

LOW = 4.64k ohms
HIGH = 2.64k ohms

(EDIT: all 4 of my switches came wired incorrectly, with low going into the 2.6k instead)



Can anyone think of a good method of integrating the stock switch into the kit? Since the kit's control module accepts 3 wires, I'm thinking this:

Connect the HIGH and LOW wires together on the stock switch (1 & 4) with inline diodes to prevent backfeed? This would assume that the stock switch has resistors built in... is that a safe assumption? Any other ideas?

EDIT: tested for resistance between high/low on switch, and got nothing. so swapping the switch directly should work.

Last edited by simonbsays; 05-18-2010 at 01:03 PM.
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2010, 08:20 PM   #37
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
Okay, i ordered and received the stock-style switches from Ebay. Looking at the nissan wiring diagram above, i THINK the pins go like this:

(in this order, notch on top)
1 2
3 4

1 = HIGH heat
2 = +12v
3 = Ground
4 = LOW heat
That's the correct pinout. Is it not possible to just use the existing circuit board and 4 wires with the nissan switch? Just swap the wires from switch to switch?
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2010, 11:30 PM   #38
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

Okay, i've swapped the switches and connected the wires according to what was figured out earlier.

Before swapping switches, I wasn't able to tell high from low (my butt thermometer must not be calibrated real well). So to test the setup, I measured the voltage after connecting everything to the car.

Interestingly, LOW had a higher voltage. I immediately thought I had swapped the wires somehow. Also, the voltage difference seems too low... I'd think low would be like 50% of high or something.

Nissan switch
High = 8.6V @ 1.99A
Low = 9.81V @ 2.34A

So I tested the kit's switch when it's all connected for comparison.

Kit switch
High = 8.42v @ 1.94A
Low = 9.91V @ 2.37A

These values where tested with a DMM with the negative probe on the black wire of the switch plug (AFTER the circuit board), and the positive probe on the blue (switched) wire, also after the circuit board.

This doesn't seem right... but measurements between the two switches are consistent. Am I missing something?
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2010, 12:08 PM   #39
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

That does seem pretty odd with the voltage readings, most elements on low are roughly 50% of the high setting. Have you tried contacting heatedseatkits?
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2010, 12:15 PM   #40
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

I sent them an email this morning. They usually take at least a day or two respond though, so... we'll see!

How's your project coming along?
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2010, 12:53 PM   #41
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

I ordered the elements and have the switches. Just need to find the time to tear the seats apart. Hopefully I can get it done next weekend.
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2010, 01:00 PM   #42
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

Here's their response from this morning:

Quote:
Hello,

I have never heard of this problem before, but this is what you do to
reverse the HIGH and LOW. On the back of the switch, you should see 3
parallel flat pins and one circle pin. Looks like this...

--
-- o
--

All you have to do is swap the highest flat pin and the lowest flat pin to
reverse the heat level. Do not modify the center flat pin connector.

Best Regards,
HeatedSeatKits.com
What I have done instead was swapped the wires at the circuit board (seems much easier than desoldering/resoldering the pins at the switch).

So... here's a heads up to CHECK THE WIRING!

Make sure LOW is with the 4.6k resistor, and HIGH is with the 2.6k.

They didn't comment on my voltage readings, but I've sent another email asking if those numbers look right.
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2010, 12:31 PM   #43
Felginator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 210088
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
97 Outback Sport

Default

Have they got back to you yet?
Felginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2010, 07:49 PM   #44
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

Their response was:

Quote:
Unfortunately we only resell this product, we do not have the facilities to perform this test.

Best Regards,
HeatedSeatKits.com
With a few more miles on the road lately, I can confirm that the wires were backwards because now that i've corrected them, high feels hotter than low. The voltage seems right too, because high gets pretty hot and low is pretty warm.

Edit: oh yea and... I LOVE HEATED SEATS! one of the best practical mods i've done so far!

Last edited by simonbsays; 05-23-2010 at 07:54 PM.
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2010, 01:02 AM   #45
simonbsays
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158241
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

Default

So since mojambo already wrote some detailed instructions for the front seats, here's how i did my rear seats:

Tapped directly to battery to ensure I don't overload any existing circuits. (note: the loom of wires going up were for my levelers, and the loom going down is for my puddle lights).


Red wire goes straight to battery (with inline 20a fuse). Cat5 is for future projects that require wiring from cabin to engine bay.


I added a 5-pin relay (zip tied to metal kickpanel support thing) to switch the power for the rear. For the signal wire, I tapped the same signal wire from the front heated seat relay (which was Acc). Pin 87a currently goes to nothing, but will be energized when Acc is off. I'm sure I'll do some future mod that uses power when car's off.


Switched power wire ran to the back, where the rear seat heaters tap in.


Didn't have anywhere to put the switch, so I decided to put it on the door. Had to sneak wiring through that lil hose to get out of cabin.


Wiring ready for seats to be reinstalled


Drilling hole in door for switches! I was scared this could just tear up the nylon skin, but it drilled through quite easily.


Results...


All put back together:


Front factory-style switches in place:
simonbsays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2010, 03:43 AM   #46
Evilchargerfan
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 183529
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
Vehicle:
i wanna help teh
haters ... love life ...

Default

damn very nicely done!

i am jealous and wish i had butt warmers in my car
Evilchargerfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2010, 03:57 AM   #47
cantseejack
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 225097
Join Date: Sep 2009
Default

I just did this to my car. **** hog rings. But heated seats are nice.
cantseejack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2010, 01:48 PM   #48
adm06sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 260355
Join Date: Oct 2010
Default

haha. must be cold in canada
adm06sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 08:29 PM   #49
cantseejack
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 225097
Join Date: Sep 2009
Default

Hey guys, I just wanted to say that I was able to get the relay that's needed (identical to fog/window/etc.) from Pep Boys. It was $7.99 and it is BWD R3154. You can pull your horn relay from the engine bay to match it, they're the same.
cantseejack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2010, 05:13 AM   #50
Evilchargerfan
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 183529
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PM yourmom For Reach Arounds
Vehicle:
i wanna help teh
haters ... love life ...

Default

subscribed
Evilchargerfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A complete n00b's guide to changing the oil in your WRX (with pics!) perret318 Service & Maintenance 153 11-28-2013 01:17 AM
Two questions relating to heated mirrors and heated seats Civ2Sub311 Newbies & FAQs 7 10-01-2009 04:05 PM
How to: swap heated pads to non heated seats? 11rex06 Interior & Exterior Modification 7 05-18-2009 12:02 PM
[DIY] R_W's guide to being a successful internet troll BraveUlysses Political Playground - Chaotic Neutral Edition 21 01-27-2009 10:10 PM
fireball_jones guide to complete newbie car work. fireball_jones Newbies & FAQs 6 11-24-2004 10:08 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission
Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.