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Old 11-16-2013, 12:01 AM   #876
senna1a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
Gotta keep that barrier to entry alive and well or else people won't have as much to bitch about
At least there aren't eleventy billion posts about street tires in this thread. I think I'm going to like this class (says the guy who hasn't finished his engine yet).
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:25 AM   #877
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Everyone likes it, nobody can truly afford it.
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:03 AM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senna1a View Post
At least there aren't eleventy billion posts about street tires in this thread. I think I'm going to like this class (says the guy who hasn't finished his engine yet).
The only time I don't like SM is when I'm looking at the budget of what it would cost to "finish" the car. Aero, light wheels and tires, lighter seats, lighter hood/trunk, more power, quicker spool, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splash View Post
Everyone likes it, nobody can truly afford it.
See above
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:16 PM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splash View Post
Everyone likes it, nobody can truly afford it.
Not even godzilla is fully preped.



And spreaking of street tires. If there was a Dover Tour, the NER street mod people were planning on driving down on street tires and racing on street tires. So thats the panda, my car, and the blue beast all driving, on the street, like 500+ miles, then racing, then driving another 500+ miles home. I see no flaw to that plan.


And in other news, I scored a sweet trailer with a winch today. Needs a bit of work but went for about half of what all the other ones in the area were going for.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:10 PM   #880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Not even godzilla is fully preped.



And spreaking of street tires. If there was a Dover Tour, the NER street mod people were planning on driving down on street tires and racing on street tires. So thats the panda, my car, and the blue beast all driving, on the street, like 500+ miles, then racing, then driving another 500+ miles home. I see no flaw to that plan.


And in other news, I scored a sweet trailer with a winch today. Needs a bit of work but went for about half of what all the other ones in the area were going for.
Hey, the class is called STREET modified, so why not? I have a standing agreement with a local to use his stock FRS tires at an autox once he's done with them. Put them on my street 17's and go try out for the worlds longest awd burn out

I love winches. After pushing my car on the trailer 5-6 different times....yeah they're worth it.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:12 PM   #881
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Now that I have a trailer with a winch the car will never break right? But seriously, this winch, I could break and axle at the startline in jersey and just use the winch from paddock to pull it back. Pretty sure it has like 200 feet of cable. And if the car got caught up on the timing truck it would pull that along too.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:26 PM   #882
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So what you're saying is the winch on your trailer has more torque than your miata. Got it.
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:38 PM   #883
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So thinking through quicker steering options. First thought was Q-Rack, but it seems they've been MIA since early 2013. The Perrin Super Steer may offer some benefits, but I'm not sold that it would hold up to SM Auto-x duty, nor would it give me the best roll center adjustment. I've heard there are some potential quick steering rack options that may be out later in 2014, but until they are on the market and proven, I would not pursue.

What other options would you guys consider for the GR chassis?
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:35 PM   #884
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None that I'm aware of outside of the gear type steering quickeners that latch onto the steering column. And IIRC those were all inside the firewall which means they're illegal.

Maybe try to find a used Q-Rack?

Why couldn't you make some spacers for the Perrin to correct roll center as needed? Using rod ends is relatively common, and it's just as common to have rod ends spaced out to compensate for lowering.

The tougher one for our cars is getting the ball joint for the wheel spaced out since it requires a lathe instead of just a trip to McMaster Carr.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post

Why couldn't you make some spacers for the Perrin to correct roll center as needed? Using rod ends is relatively common, and it's just as common to have rod ends spaced out to compensate for lowering.
I'm considering just that. The alternative is just to make my own roll center adjusters for now and keep the current steering ratio, then if/when a new (or used) rack comes about, pick one up at that point.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:43 PM   #886
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You can package a steering quickener under the hood. It'll be a heck of a lot easier on a subaru than it would be on my miata. Just bolt it to the firewall in the engine bay.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #887
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Can we tub out our wheel wells in SM? I though at one point I read that anything on the outer side of the centerline of the strut was free to trim but now I cant seem to find that language.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:01 PM   #888
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You can cut the fenders and bumper and no one is going to fault you for hammering on the chassis in the wheel well. But dont cut the chassis more than 1 inch and 1 pound.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:24 PM   #889
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Actually, I wrote a letter asking for clarification recently regarding the rear fender. It's below, and I haven't gotten a response yet. The general consensus from the people I've poled is "yes, you can cut in the back and weld".

"The SP rules allow you to modify the fender from the vertical plane of the wheel mounting face outward and does not specify front or rear. It simply states "fenders". Below is the excerpt from the SP rules section.

15.2.A
Fenders and bumpers may be modified for tire clearance. This includes
the portion of a hood which serves as a fender/wheel well,
where applicable. This does not permit modifications to the chassis
or bodywork inboard of the vertical plane of the hub/wheel mounting
face (at rest, with front wheels straight ahead). Flares may be added
although tires may extend beyond the bodywork. Replacement of
complete hood, flared fenders, or quarter panels is prohibited. Plastic
and rubber wheel well splash shields may be modified for tire
clearance and for installation of fender flares as allowed herein.

When you go to the SM rules for bodywork it confuses me somewhat.

16.1.I
Front hoods (engine covers), engine covers, trunk lids and hatches
not containing glass, front fenders, rear fenders not part of chassis
structure (unibody), front & rear facias, and side skirts may be
modified or replaced, and may be attached with removable fasteners.
Associated hardware including latches, hinges, window washer
system, and hood liners may be modified, removed, or replaced.

The question revolves around flaring rear fenders on a 2000 Subaru sedan. My original plan was to cut the fender to allow outbound tire clearance during compression and then rivet on some plastic covers. The rear fender on a Subaru is a weld on piece and has an inner and outer fender. If I cut the fender to where I wanted it would also involve cutting the inner fender (it's an outer skin, then an inner metal layer that's crimped together). I would reweld the inner fender to the outer fender and rivet the plastic covers over that (and into the door).

My interpretation is as long as I don't cross the vertical line of the wheel mounting face I can cut the fender and weld the inner and outer surface together legally, then add the rivet on covers without issue. Is my interpretation correct?"
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #890
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As long as you dont cross the vertical line of the hub face you're SP legal there and good to go. If that wasnt SP legal then pretty much all of CSP and my car are illegal.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
As long as you dont cross the vertical line of the hub face you're SP legal there and good to go. If that wasnt SP legal then pretty much all of CSP and my car are illegal.
That was my interpretation, but I'm just confirming before cutting. There's a good 2.5 inches of inner metal fender I can cut and "mini-tub" to fit 315's while dumping the car. If I couldn't, then it'd change a few things.

Measure twice, ask, confirm, ask again, get group consensus, then cut.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:42 PM   #892
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The only problem with the hub face interpretation is that there is nothing stopping you from narrowing the suspension other than the chassis itself. This makes sense in the context of SP, but loses a lot in the translation to SM.

Put another way, if the hub face location is preventing you from cutting enough, move the hubs inwards.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splash View Post
The only problem with the hub face interpretation is that there is nothing stopping you from narrowing the suspension other than the chassis itself. This makes sense in the context of SP, but loses a lot in the translation to SM.

Put another way, if the hub face location is preventing you from cutting enough, move the hubs inwards.
Yeah, but moving the hub inwards will really gain you at most around an inch on any car before you really start ****ing up the geometry, solid axle cars excluded from that comment.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:37 PM   #894
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I agree with Leafy. Thinking about all the types of suspensions....it'd be a nightmare to do more than .5 inches a side.

While SM is pretty free, there are some things you just look at and say "that's a bad idea to go that far".
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #895
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Since we're all here. Whats the pimpy coil over options for these cars like? I'm having a hard time finding custom valved AST 5100s for the money I'm used to seeing on miatas, and no one wants the ****ty valving that comes stock in the ASTs. And the AFCO/custom valved billies/other 2000ish dollar coil overs seem a bit sparse too. The koni yellow inserts are blown on the front of my car and I want a comfortable ride like the miata has from the $2000 AST 5100's I have.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:42 AM   #896
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I've always been partial to the Ohlins FPS setup. IIRC they were under $2k and usually matched well to most mild drop springs (RCE yellows and the like). Beyond that, the Koni's would be my next suggestion with the Tokico D-Specs coming in 3rd. This is all assuming a mild 250-300 lbs spring in front and 200ish lbs spring in the rear. All are rebound adjustable only, but if it's a daily, then all of those options will give good results for comfort while controlling the ride well at the occasional autox/track day.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:44 AM   #897
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Right now I just have the koni yellow inserts with RCE springs. Before I started getting the blown strut clunk they were really harsh even at 1/4 turn off full soft.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:53 AM   #898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Right now I just have the koni yellow inserts with RCE springs. Before I started getting the blown strut clunk they were really harsh even at 1/4 turn off full soft.
Cheap: Tokico D-Specs
Not as Cheap: Ohlins FPS

I know a lot of the rally guys like the Tokico's and say the ride is pretty comfy on the road as well. I've driven both setups in different cars and while the Ohlins felt better, the Tokico's are about half the price last I checked and the difference wasn't THAT big in ride comfort.

Grain of salt and all since I DD a miata on the standard STS setup of 700f 450r
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:55 AM   #899
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I wish I could DD my miata on the 840/505 setup. Much more comfortable than the subaru. Because $2000 shocks.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #900
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My friend has been running KW v3 coilovers and they're way more comfortable than the stock sti stuff along with great adjustability. A little pricey though...
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