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Old 11-26-2017, 08:59 PM   #1876
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Inconel would be completely dependent on the temperatures seen in the jet.

I also, in the name of labor vs cost, would just go inconel instead of aging out a 321 combustor.

Flipped idle switch or air solenoid for your TB 'leak'. I know of a Volvo PN that I think would work for the dosing valve on an air solenoid (boost solenoid).

Tim, we'll need to actually meet up at Zmax sometime (when I don't get a flat on my trailer) and talk some more things over.
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:55 PM   #1877
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I look forward to the discussion.
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:51 AM   #1878
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What is everyone running for EMS currently? I find myself hitting the rev limiter on a fairly consistent basis, and I'm hoping to either be consoled that the Cobb AP has sufficient control, or, be recommended a standalone that can really add some layers of safety.

PS: First post 2018
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:50 PM   #1879
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Cobb AP can raise rev-limit and well beyond that. That's the tip of the iceberg.

I have a mix of AEM (02-05 WRX), Hydra (for my 04 STi wired coupe), and good old reflash of the 16 bit ECU, which now has a myriad of options.

Vipec V88 and Link G4+ are both availlable. Syvecs (related to Life Racing) is a very nice unit and available as well. I want a Syvecs when I get my $h!t together.

Honestly, unless your getting into some serious mapping work (wheelspeed, anti-lag maps, TCS mapping, sequential injectors, etc...) AP with a pro-tune should have all your bases covered.
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:50 PM   #1880
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Cobb AP can raise rev-limit and well beyond that. That's the tip of the iceberg.

I have a mix of AEM (02-05 WRX), Hydra (for my 04 STi wired coupe), and good old reflash of the 16 bit ECU, which now has a myriad of options.

Vipec V88 and Link G4+ are both availlable. Syvecs (related to Life Racing) is a very nice unit and available as well. I want a Syvecs when I get my $h!t together.

Honestly, unless your getting into some serious mapping work (wheelspeed, anti-lag maps, TCS mapping, sequential injectors, etc...) AP with a pro-tune should have all your bases covered.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:08 PM   #1881
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I agree with Micah, if you can run a Cobb AP, you can likely do everything you want. Although I don't like how they limit access to the parameters unless you do the tuning school thing.

Personally, I have a Haltech Sport 2000 in my car, and I'm going to their new Elite ecu soon (already have the box, just don't have time to put it in). I like the ability to tune on my own, make my own changes, etc. But....if a cobb ap had been available to me (they don't offer a JDM option) I'd likely still have that.

Edit: I know we talked about this in the past, but you know I have a solution to hitting the limiter too
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Old 01-17-2018, 01:08 AM   #1882
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I don't need to raise it, I'm just looking for alternate (safer?) methods of limiting, and failsafes. I wouldn't be tuning my own stuff, I try to setup a tuning trip and fly Clark Turner out here for that. Just want to put together the most reliable package I can at the level of performance I want. I already have the HP I'm looking for, but wanted to start the discussion on longevity/failsafe options.

We have a local Haltech guy who I will speak with, that sounds like a good option, but wanted to ask around.

Micah, regarding the IRL turbos, is the compressor side any different from the standard supercore aside from the integrated BPV? I was under the impression that only the hotside/v-band options were proprietary to IRL.

Thanks for the feedback guys!
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:44 AM   #1883
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Unless the tuner who tuned it prior turned a lot of stuff off, there's actually a good number of fail safes in the OEM ECU. I know my Haltech has multiple layers of safety built in, although I'm only using a few. Temperature correction for fuel and timing along with using a fuel cut style limiter (OEM style), and making sure things stay in their temp range is about all you can do.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:38 PM   #1884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krang View Post
Micah, regarding the IRL turbos, is the compressor side any different from the standard supercore aside from the integrated BPV? I was under the impression that only the hotside/v-band options were proprietary to IRL.

Thanks for the feedback guys!
The housings are lighter and proprietary. CHRA is the same.
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Old 02-05-2018, 04:52 PM   #1885
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Default Which class and brake ducts cutting inner well

First question:
Brake Ducts says ok for STS class but does that mean you can cut a hole in the inner wheel well plastic?
Asking because there are two options on ducting,
rooducts $200. which look like no fender well mod/cutting is needed vs the C6 ducts $50. where you must cut the fender well plastic a little.

found this in the rules, but still cannot clarify:
15.2 BODYWORK
Vehicles may only exceed the allowances of Section 13.2 as specified herein.
A. Fenders and bumpers may be modified for tire clearance. This includes
the portion of a hood which serves as a fender/wheel well, where applicable.
This does not permit modifications to the chassis or bodywork inboard
of the vertical plane of the hub/wheel mounting face (at rest, with
front wheels straight ahead). Flares may be added although tires may extend
beyond the bodywork. Replacement of complete hood, flared fend-
2017 SCCA® National Solo® Rules — 79
15. Street Prepared
ers, or quarter panels is prohibited. Plastic and rubber wheel well splash
shields may be modified or removed for tire clearance and for installation
of fender flares as allowed herein.
Hardware may be added to the steering system outside the passenger
compartment to limit steering travel, provided it doesn not alter steering
or suspension geometry within the limited range of motion and serves no
other purpose.

2nd question:
Where should I spend another $200. ?

3rd question:
For those of us that have modded then later read rules, How do you decide which mod to take off so your not blown away by competition?

I want to Auto X this year
running 08 wrx
Cobb DP ( street prepared )
Cobb stage 2 (street modified ) Maybe I remove the tune .for AX.?
Cobb short shift (street Prepared)
whiteline Rear Sway (STS class and up )
Bridegstone Pilot Super sport 245's ( STU class+ )
wheels 8x17 (STS class+ )
STI rearend ( Street prepared)
DBA rotors same weight (street prepared )

Issues with these:
light battery ( ? )
Rear wiper delete ( ? )
front washer delete ( ? )
STI rear wing with spacers ( ? )

about to install:
Whiteline lowering springs
Tomei headers ( STS class )
Should I add a front sway bar?

Can you run lightweight bumper?

Thank You for advise and helping getting into AutoCross
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:00 PM   #1886
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Fender liners are open in SM and can be modified or removed so pick whichever one you want.

Regarding your modifications, all of them listed are SP legal and most are ST legal. The R180 rear swap (assuming that's what you meant with STi rear end) is the only one that would be hard to undo to go back to ST since the rest are STH legal (assuming the DP has a cat in it).

Light battery is ST legal. Wiper and washer delete are SM though. The springs, headers, and such are all fine. You cannot run a light weight bumper in SM.

The classes build on each other in general so if something is legal in ST or SP then it's legal in SM. However, the rules are allowances, so if it doesn't say you can do something you can't.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:44 PM   #1887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
Fender liners are open in SM and can be modified or removed so pick whichever one you want.

Regarding your modifications, all of them listed are SP legal and most are ST legal. The R180 rear swap (assuming that's what you meant with STi rear end) is the only one that would be hard to undo to go back to ST since the rest are STH legal (assuming the DP has a cat in it).

Light battery is ST legal. Wiper and washer delete are SM though. The springs, headers, and such are all fine. You cannot run a light weight bumper in SM.

The classes build on each other in general so if something is legal in ST or SP then it's legal in SM. However, the rules are allowances, so if it doesn't say you can do something you can't.
awesome,Thank You Subydude
yes, DP has cat
I do not see any classes that list STH .
So put back wiper and washer and be in Street Preparred ?
what class does the R180 bump me into?, is that SP as well?
I read them again, SP says "differentials" but no detail.

Last edited by Speed Assault; 02-05-2018 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:03 PM   #1888
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The R180 is the housing. There are diffs that fit in an R160 too which is what came with your car stock. R180 bumps you to ASP since it's an update to the STi rear diff.

STH is a new class for 2018 so it would be in the 2018 draft rules. Basically open boost tunes in ST.

If you're in the market, I actually have a nice set of JRZ shocks for the 08-14 WRX as well that are setup for autox.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:25 PM   #1889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Assault View Post
First question:

3rd question:
For those of us that have modded then later read rules, How do you decide which mod to take off so your not blown away by competition?
So I accidentally jumped into SM early last year, then back pedaled to STU and now feel comfy in ASP for this year.

I would just pick a class and maximize your car in that class. In every class people will always be faster. I wanted to draw a line in the sand for budgetary reasons so i'm staying out of SM for the moment. I don't have a bunch of big modifications that I can really do in ASP at this point so this season I can focus on the driver mod this year and just tweak my settings instead of trying to learn a different car every time I go out.

You said Bridgestone Pilot Super sports. I think you mean the Michelins? These are fun for street driving, but not so much at autocross. I had these on my car for a few events last year and then I drove a friend's STI that was running the SUR4 and later the RE71R and they were much faster. Tires really are the most important thing.
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:24 PM   #1890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Assault View Post

Brake Ducts says ok for STS class but...

Thank You for advise and helping getting into AutoCross
I've only had my STi for a year, but I've been autocrossing for six or seven years.

IMO... brake cooling ducts are among the last things you'd need for autocross. Brake fade is a non-issue, as generally speaking, you're only out there for a minute at a time. Track days would be different, but that then becomes an apples and oranges discussion.
.

Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 02-07-2018 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:24 PM   #1891
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I have a question for those using spherical bearings on the front control arm on the GD.

I currently have the TiC FCAR rear bushing and the stock STi front bushing, and I've got a bit of stiction that I'm not wild about. I've seen a couple kits that replace one or both of those bushings with sphericals, but they're a bit more spendy than I want to go. I can handle the machining and press fitting, but I'm not sure about sizing the bearings or where to even get them really. I've heard Auroroa thrown around

Has anybody replaced the front control arm bushings with these?
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:53 PM   #1892
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You forgot the link it looks like you meant to post.

I used the standard bearings from McMaster Carr in mine. 3/4 for the rear, 1/2 for the front. No reason to stick with metric sizes since if something breaks in the field it's a lot easier to find standard sized bearings and they're cheaper. Also, always order spares with the primaries.

Aurora is nice, but I find the quality and load ratings of the McMaster stuff to be the same. The arms I made with standard bearings a few years ago are still tight with no play.
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:18 PM   #1893
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http://www.esmrace.com/ Makes some that are affordable
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:54 PM   #1894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantsti View Post
http://www.esmrace.com/ Makes some that are affordable
They also suck. Myself and some of my friends have had issues with them regarding fitment and timeline of parts being made. I had an order in to them last year that went over 4 months before I cancelled. It was a customized order but not a big customization. Basically I wanted one of their bearings but offset a bit. So same off the shelf parts, but slightly different machining. That shouldn't take 4 months. I also asked them for updates regularly and did not receive good communication until I started the process for a refund. Which I had to do through paypal since they wouldn't return my emails.

I am not a fan.
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Old 02-07-2018, 03:08 PM   #1895
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Those were the ones I had seen, along with the MSI ones.

I guess they're not crazy expensive, but I like the McMaster route more. Especially since it looks like it'll be less than half the cost.

Thanks!
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:11 PM   #1896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
They also suck. Myself and some of my friends have had issues with them regarding fitment and timeline of parts being made. I had an order in to them last year that went over 4 months before I cancelled. It was a customized order but not a big customization. Basically I wanted one of their bearings but offset a bit. So same off the shelf parts, but slightly different machining. That shouldn't take 4 months. I also asked them for updates regularly and did not receive good communication until I started the process for a refund. Which I had to do through paypal since they wouldn't return my emails.

I am not a fan.
Good to know I've never ordered from them.
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:44 AM   #1897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
They also suck. Myself and some of my friends have had issues with them regarding fitment and timeline of parts being made. I had an order in to them last year that went over 4 months before I cancelled. It was a customized order but not a big customization. Basically I wanted one of their bearings but offset a bit. So same off the shelf parts, but slightly different machining. That shouldn't take 4 months. I also asked them for updates regularly and did not receive good communication until I started the process for a refund. Which I had to do through paypal since they wouldn't return my emails.

I am not a fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wantsti View Post
Good to know I've never ordered from them.

I ordered ESM rear solid diff bushings and they shipped me the rear solid subframe bushings by mistake.
I asked for the rear diff and they said I would have to pay the shipping back to Canada.. So then I'd be out even more money on my order...
They ended up giving me a discount on the rear diff bushings but honestly not by much.
So now I guess I'll be installing the rear subframe bushings sometime this year lol.
They primarily focus on Honda models but the products I received were top notch and can't gripe about any poor quality from visually inspecting them.
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Old 02-08-2018, 03:12 PM   #1898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vancouver98STi View Post
I've only had my STi for a year, but I've been autocrossing for six or seven years.

IMO... brake cooling ducts are among the last things you'd need for autocross. Brake fade is a non-issue, as generally speaking, you're only out there for a minute at a time. Track days would be different, but that then becomes an apples and oranges discussion.
.
ok. I agree.
Auto cross is about 2 minutes and 25-50mph

driving at night cool temperatures for 30 minutes , 30 to 80mph is gonna heat them up.
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Old 02-08-2018, 03:15 PM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
The R180 is the housing. There are diffs that fit in an R160 too which is what came with your car stock. R180 bumps you to ASP since it's an update to the STi rear diff.

STH is a new class for 2018 so it would be in the 2018 draft rules. Basically open boost tunes in ST.

If you're in the market, I actually have a nice set of JRZ shocks for the 08-14 WRX as well that are setup for autox.
Thank you and for offer.
, I need to find the 2018 rules
I think I reached the point of question , Do I continue with this 08 or bump to a 2010 sti or 2012 WRX
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Old 02-08-2018, 03:23 PM   #1900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Assault View Post

Auto cross is about 2 minutes....
You need to get on the gas more.
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