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Old 03-02-2017, 09:27 AM   #26
fl1p
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FYI your fuel lines are one-time use. If you remove them for any reason, you need to replace them.
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Old 03-02-2017, 12:23 PM   #27
Subie53013
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Originally Posted by fl1p View Post
FYI your fuel lines are one-time use. If you remove them for any reason, you need to replace them.
Got any more information on this? I checked service guide and it says nothing whatsoever about replacing the fuel lines I disconnected....I even called Subaru and they confirmed I don't need to replace those 2 connectors I unplugged...

Been a week now and have had no issues...will post a log
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:01 PM   #28
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Hey guys,

I wanted to share a log I took yesterday since it's been about a week since I did the walnut blast. This is a 2nd gear only where I pressed the log button and then punched it right away and pressed "stop logging" right before redline. By no means do I have experience tuning a car so I'm not going to say this is perfect and being an OTS map, it's not going to be as good as a protune of course. What I do recognize is 0 knock and things like A/F correction going to 0 while under WOT. the A/F learning even goes to 0 too. It doesn't go to 0 right away but does pretty quickly...maybe a protune would tweak something up like this to go to 0 instantly under WOT...again not a tuner so not gonna start analyzing to deep here.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...7FE/edit#gid=0

If anyone sees something that is out of the ordinary of the Cobb OTS stage 1 map, please let me know! If you're just gonna say "that's not good" or "you should do or shouldn't have done" PLEASE BACK IT UP WITH FACTS! DON'T COME HERE AND TROLL WITHOUT PROVIDING GOOD INFO TO BACK IT UP...OTHERWISE IT'S USELESS TO EVERYONE READING.

I've also had a few people ask me about the Cobb OTS stage 1 map. Don't get me wrong, this is not a perfect, better than sliced bread, map. However, this is much better than stock. Everything feels pretty smooth for a Cobb OTS map and feels pretty good driving. Is it as good as a protune? Of course not! Will be getting a protune after the winter which I'm excited for! Here's my analogy.
  • Stock Tune - Go to the thrift store and buy some ****ty suit jacket that just does not match or fit properly
  • Cobb OTS map - Go to Macy's and buy a suit when you know your general size (neck, waste, etc.)
  • Protune (from reputable tuner of course) - Go to Martin Greenfield and get a custom tailored suit where they measure every single part of your body to make an absolute perfect fit
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:19 PM   #29
uofime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie53013 View Post
Hey guys,

I wanted to share a log I took yesterday since it's been about a week since I did the walnut blast. This is a 2nd gear only where I pressed the log button and then punched it right away and pressed "stop logging" right before redline. By no means do I have experience tuning a car so I'm not going to say this is perfect and being an OTS map, it's not going to be as good as a protune of course. What I do recognize is 0 knock and things like A/F correction going to 0 while under WOT. the A/F learning even goes to 0 too. It doesn't go to 0 right away but does pretty quickly...maybe a protune would tweak something up like this to go to 0 instantly under WOT...again not a tuner so not gonna start analyzing to deep here.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...7FE/edit#gid=0

If anyone sees something that is out of the ordinary of the Cobb OTS stage 1 map, please let me know! If you're just gonna say "that's not good" or "you should do or shouldn't have done" PLEASE BACK IT UP WITH FACTS! DON'T COME HERE AND TROLL WITHOUT PROVIDING GOOD INFO TO BACK IT UP...OTHERWISE IT'S USELESS TO EVERYONE READING.

I've also had a few people ask me about the Cobb OTS stage 1 map. Don't get me wrong, this is not a perfect, better than sliced bread, map. However, this is much better than stock. Everything feels pretty smooth for a Cobb OTS map and feels pretty good driving. Is it as good as a protune? Of course not! Will be getting a protune after the winter which I'm excited for! Here's my analogy.
  • Stock Tune - Go to the thrift store and buy some ****ty suit jacket that just does not match or fit properly
  • Cobb OTS map - Go to Macy's and buy a suit when you know your general size (neck, waste, etc.)
  • Protune (from reputable tuner of course) - Go to Martin Greenfield and get a custom tailored suit where they measure every single part of your body to make an absolute perfect fit
A general note to you, You do not need to log that way you can take longer logs and just look at the region of interest (its very obvious). No need to take risks screwing with the buttons while you're pushing the car.

In other words. start while driving normally, do pull or whatever else, slow down, then stop the log.

also check out datazap.me it is free and easy to upload logs there and is a very good tool for reading them

Here's one of mine from when I had a stage 1 set up and about 15k miles you can compare to.

http://datazap.me/u/uofime/first-log...18-19&solo=3-6
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #30
Subie53013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
A general note to you, You do not need to log that way you can take longer logs and just look at the region of interest (its very obvious). No need to take risks screwing with the buttons while you're pushing the car.

In other words. start while driving normally, do pull or whatever else, slow down, then stop the log.

also check out datazap.me it is free and easy to upload logs there and is a very good tool for reading them

Here's one of mine from when I had a stage 1 set up and about 15k miles you can compare to.

http://datazap.me/u/uofime/first-log...18-19&solo=3-6
Thank you for the good recommendation. I'll do that next time as that make sense. I just let off gas and pushed clutch in so I could use my right hand to stop AP. You're right though, no need adding any risk if I can just crop what I want out of log.
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:37 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
A general note to you, You do not need to log that way you can take longer logs and just look at the region of interest (its very obvious). No need to take risks screwing with the buttons while you're pushing the car.

In other words. start while driving normally, do pull or whatever else, slow down, then stop the log.

also check out datazap.me it is free and easy to upload logs there and is a very good tool for reading them

Here's one of mine from when I had a stage 1 set up and about 15k miles you can compare to.

http://datazap.me/u/uofime/first-log...18-19&solo=3-6
Also, thanks for the log! Really like the platform you use to upload and analyze the logs! Just created an account!
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Old 03-03-2017, 02:17 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Subie53013 View Post
Got any more information on this? I checked service guide and it says nothing whatsoever about replacing the fuel lines I disconnected....I even called Subaru and they confirmed I don't need to replace those 2 connectors I unplugged...

Been a week now and have had no issues...will post a log
The fuel lines use a crush fitting.
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Old 03-03-2017, 03:19 PM   #33
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The fuel lines use a crush fitting.


doesnt look like a one time use connection to me

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Old 03-04-2017, 10:43 AM   #34
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^fl1p is talking about the fuel pipes that go from the HPFP to the fuel rails, not that line from the firewall
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:53 PM   #35
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Thanks for sharing, that was very helpful!
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:08 PM   #36
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I just saw on the Subie Bros instagram that they will be releasing a DIY FA20DIT Valve cleaning kit in the near future and will have product details out this weekend.

https://www.instagram.com/thesubiebros/

Hopefully it will be a model specific want and adapter for walnut blasting. I am interested to see what it will be. This is the first FA20DIT specific valve cleaning product I have heard of.

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Old 03-24-2017, 03:11 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
I just saw on the Subie Bros instagram that they will be releasing a DIY FA20DIT Valve cleaning kit in the near future and will have product details out this weekend.

https://www.instagram.com/thesubiebros/

Hopefully it will be a model specific want and adapter for walnut blasting. I am interested to see what it will be. This is the first FA20DIT specific valve cleaning product I have heard of.
Lol, I went to their website to find the tool, not knowing that you posted this today. SMH. I'll be looking for it; got about 1450 miles on my car, but don't want to mess with the tune or EGR/TGV deletes until 10k miles.
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Old 03-24-2017, 03:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
I just saw on the Subie Bros instagram that they will be releasing a DIY FA20DIT Valve cleaning kit in the near future and will have product details out this weekend.

https://www.instagram.com/thesubiebros/

Hopefully it will be a model specific want and adapter for walnut blasting. I am interested to see what it will be. This is the first FA20DIT specific valve cleaning product I have heard of.

Does anyone have any factual evidence that a really thin layer of carbon on the valves/port is going to be detrimental to performance?
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Old 03-24-2017, 04:05 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by playslikepage71 View Post
Does anyone have any factual evidence that a really thin layer of carbon on the valves/port is going to be detrimental to performance?

A thin layer doesn't bother me, the cancerous tumor that grows on the valve stems does
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:58 PM   #40
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tl;dr
I wouldn't walnut blast until I have idling and misfiring issues...
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:27 PM   #41
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what about small chunks breaking off and scarring your piston wall?
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:32 PM   #42
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what about small chunks breaking off and scarring your piston wall?
I think that's why people fashion devices to attach to a shop vac.
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:37 PM   #43
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I think he means during combustion not cleaning

That carbon would get torched if it was loose in the cylinder
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:38 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by tegxsi View Post
tl;dr
I wouldn't walnut blast until I have idling and misfiring issues...
This x10.

I'll probably just do mine as part of my 60k service, and then again in another 60k. And only because I am anal. You guys doing this less than 50k intervals are loco en la cabeza
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:48 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
This x10.

I'll probably just do mine as part of my 60k service, and then again in another 60k. And only because I am anal. You guys doing this less than 50k intervals are loco en la cabeza
if someone comes up with a good dyi solution, i'd do it earlier. if i'm paying to have it done, what you said.
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:36 PM   #46
Subie53013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
I just saw on the Subie Bros instagram that they will be releasing a DIY FA20DIT Valve cleaning kit in the near future and will have product details out this weekend.

https://www.instagram.com/thesubiebros/

Hopefully it will be a model specific want and adapter for walnut blasting. I am interested to see what it will be. This is the first FA20DIT specific valve cleaning product I have heard of.

That's pretty cool. Will def be interested to see what they come out with! About time someone fabricated an exact fit adapter to match the port dimensions. I just cut up a piece of rubber to match it and put it around the adapter I bought from Bavarian Autosport which worked fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
This x10.

I'll probably just do mine as part of my 60k service, and then again in another 60k. And only because I am anal. You guys doing this less than 50k intervals are loco en la cabeza
I agree with you on this. Not totally necessary when you have less than around 40K miles (just an estimate...could be 50-60)... I wouldn't wait until you start misfiring like someone else suggested though...These cars are still pretty new so it's still undetermined exactly when this should be done, hence one of the main reasons I created this thread. Now everyone knows what the build up looks like around 10K miles. There are other pictures out there wish 30K+ too. WE ARE ALL IN THE RESEARCH PHASE HERE TOGETHER. It's crazy how some people come on here (not talking about you) and start playing "who has the biggest penis game" and start giving their 2 cents about how something is not good, done wrong, or how it should be done when they have never done this. On top of that, not to be redundant, this service for our cars is still in the discovery/testing phase.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
if someone comes up with a good dyi solution, i'd do it earlier. if i'm paying to have it done, what you said.
So you're saying that this DIY thread is not a good solution???!!!! haha
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Old 03-25-2017, 07:36 PM   #47
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While this issue is new to Subaru, it's been around longer for other cars (Mini is one), go see what issues they had with more miles.

This is mostly an issue with direct injection since there is nothing in the intake to keep the valves clean. Nothing in the fuel tank will help since it won't get to the spot that needs it.
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:03 PM   #48
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There's got to be something we can do to clean them, that doesn't involve pulling the manifold.. or is there? Idk what kind of chemicals could help, but my though was having ports in the TGV's that you could use to spray in there.
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:04 PM   #49
simpleJ
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Yea there is, meth injection.

Bmws and bed usually start having misfire issues in the 70k range FYI.
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:30 PM   #50
ilarson007
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Yea there is, meth injection.

Bmws and bed usually start having misfire issues in the 70k range FYI.
With or without EGR?
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