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Old 02-21-2010, 10:57 PM   #1
02 Scoob-TN
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Phat-Tuned RIP Bugeye

Rally Stuff Swap pros needed.Anyone use the jdm ac compressor and ps pump on their ej207 v8 swap?

Hey guys my V8 ej207 swap is on its way and Ive researched all my potential questions but still have a few. Im swaping this into a 2002 usdm wrx sedan. I bought a low mile longblock with all accesories. Ive read that the ac compressor and ps pump can be a problem. My current ac pump on my usdm is shot. Im wanting to try to drop this bad boy in and use all the accesories on it especially since they have under 25k on them. The only points I could find on doing this is that the jdm ac wiring is a bit different at the pump and the ps pump/lines are setup for LHD. Any experiences or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Is it just a matter of changing the ps lines connectors, I can weld and have the equiptment if so. And is the ac issue just a matter of adding a relay or a ground wire to work? I may just hard wire a switch to activate the ac clutch if I had to but would rather keep it clean. Below is a list of what Ive found to expect to have to do. Please respond with any info Im forgetting and any info on the above issues.

Whats comming:
V8 ej207 complete with accesories, ts turbo, manifold, uppipe,downpipe, intercooler, engine harness, cut cabin harness and ECU.

What I already expect to have to do when it arrives:
Wire for AVCS and swap some pinouts(or get IA kit).
Fab extension to connect jdm downpipe to usdm catback.
Opensource tune for 93, since jdm is ~94ron.

Future mods:
Want to go e85(they sell it all over town here) so, 850+ injectors, fuel pump, rails, fpr, e85 compliant fuel filter, Grimspeed boost solenoid, cai, inlet, fab up a ts downpipe and add an aftermarket catback and retune.

Way in the future mods:
Blouch twinscroll (in development) or other aftermarket upgrade 600+ cfm
Upgraded Topmount, EWG,BOV
Upgraded brakes and tranny gears(keeping it 5 speed)


What im unsure of:
Using jdm air conditioning compressor.
Using jdm ps pump.
Does the usdm wrx maf work fine.
Does the stock usdm boost solenoid work fine.


Thanks for any input.

Andrew
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:08 AM   #2
666stars
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i used the power steering pump from a spec c on my V7 swap just had to take the fitting off my wrx pump because the inside threads are different where the banjo bolt goes, and the sti V7 ac should be two wires instead of three. i just spliced the harness so it could run with two wires. stock wrx third wire is just looped iirc. also take your time wiring avcs, you dont want to put the wires in the wrong spots. stock usdm boost solenoid will work fine. also the jdm ecu is set up for more like 95-96 octane and the stock map runs crazy timing in spots, so dont drive it too crazy until you relash the ecu. mine is opensource tuned. i may get another jdm ecu and have it tuned for E85 and just swap them when i want to run E85

Last edited by 666stars; 02-22-2010 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:25 PM   #3
02 Scoob-TN
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Thumbs up

+100

Good advice from experience, Im sure the v8 will be close if not the same. Ill have it installed within the next week. Limp around on 93 then within the month go with the e85 setup. Just dedicating all available funds to refreshing wear items(clutch, flywheel, t/o bearing,slave cylinder,plugs,etc)while its easy to get to them first. Greatly appreciate the input. Ill let you know the results once tuned on the corn. Should be a nice setup.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #4
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I ended up using ver 8 PS and A/C in my bugeye, there was little bit of persuading for the PS hose but its been working for last 6 months. A/C required a repin (different plug).
WRX maf is the same part number and same unit as ver 7/8 units. Be careful with the gas you use and be easy on the RPMs. Let me know if you need a tune.

-Adrian
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:23 PM   #5
02 Scoob-TN
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Thumbs up Good input..

Hey Adrian I appreciate that advice. Any description or pics on the a/c rewiring you did would help me out alot too. I understand its a repin but what wires did you change over.+1000 on the tune offer. Have you ever delt with e85? I'll proly end up with a Clark tune or limp over to Fastech and pay Mark aka PlatinumRex a visit since last time I spoke to him he just bought an awd dyno.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:05 AM   #6
langsbr
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+1 for what everyone else said - you do need the fitting from the PS pump off the US one. I didn't have any pinout issues with the A/C tho, it all plugged right in.

I don't forsee you having bad knock issues with gas - you are in the SE, so you can get 93, right? JDM fuel is like 94.

You may get lucky if they send you the bulkhead harness that goes from the pass. firewall to the ecu to get the AVCS wiring.

I have an extra cable if you're interested - it makes it a no nonsense plug in - just like the IA performance harness, but OEM.

Not sure what your setup was before, I was on a 205 w/vf22. This engine is SOOO different! I had to get a six speed just to help use up some of that extra rpm!

I've thought of doing E85, but wanted to know the mileage loss...I know there is good power gain, but what is the net overall loss? If my net loss is less than $10 a tank, it might be worth it.
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Old 02-23-2010, 04:17 PM   #7
02 Scoob-TN
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Phat-Tuned RIP Bugeye

Subaru Stars From what Ive researched here on the forum...

From what Ive researched here on the forum you have to increase fueling by around 30%. But that dosent mean you lose 30% mpg though. People that have posted their mileage here before and after the switch report an average range of 30 to 60 miles less than before. Im fine as long as a tank nets ~300 mile range. Im most interested in its cooler burn benefits and less carbon deposits. I think it would be nice on the VF37.
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:35 PM   #8
langsbr
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Yeah, the range isn't that big of an issue, compared to the cost. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on view) E85 doesn't cost 30% less than 93 here in SC. 93 is about 18% more than E85.

Hmm...depending on the power gain, it might be worth doing overall. I may have to do two tunes!

More money to spend!
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:57 PM   #9
666stars
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i think i got around 280 miles or so from a tank on E85. the thing is when running E85 you want to get on it a lot so i never drove like an old lady to see how far i could go on a tank
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:00 PM   #10
02 Scoob-TN
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Rally Stuff Update

Thanks to all who advised. The swap went pretty smoothly. I had to remove the turbo from the engine to get it to drop in. My JDM PS pump hooked right up, the biggest difference was the clamps that hold the lines on the block. The AC hose connections were a lil tricky(upper one only had 1 bolt hole, JDM setup uses a 2 bolt hose but it still sealed fine) but they all eventually bolted right up and I repinned the old connector.

I did get lucky and got most of the JDM harness and did extract the shielded wires for the avcs. Swapped the pins over on the ecu and engine harness, then ran the shileded line to the engine. Very clean and simple.

I installed a new clutch while the engine was out and love the setup I went with. I bought a factory pressure plate(60$), new act 6 puck sprung disc(115$), and resurfaced my 12 lb flywheel(40$). The sprung 6 puck is streetable but has a ton of grip. I went from a kevlar disc and the act is much better. Less need to rev match,quieter,a quick break in and at 220$ cant beat it..

I cut and extended my stock midpipe, so it would reach the shorter JDM downpipe. I did have to extend the front o2 sensor wire a bit. Stock exhaust is so quiet. Cant wait for the megan turbobacks to be available again..

So after buttoning up all the loose ends, installed a walbro, changed the fuel filter, fresh plugs, checked fluids, and removing the air splitter in the hood scoop for more air. It was time to start her up. Pulled the fuel pump fuse, turned her over a few times to prime the oil system. Reinstalled the fuse, then cycled the key a few times to prime up the fuel system and then she started without an issue. No CELS!!! Test drove her real easy for the first few days checking often for leaks and found none. Rechecked all major connection bolts and tightened if needed. Passed TN inspection with no prob, and they do scan the ecu(Im using the JDM one).

Overall the car is a totally different beast. Im runnning 93+ lucas octane boost for now until I get the funds to get tuned. Im avoiding gettin into boost because Im untuned and not used to the quicker spool of the VF37. No knock detected yet.

Recharged the AC too, nice n cool!!

Ill give an update on the setup in a few months.

Any questions just ask.

<<<<<<WOOOOO HOOOOO>>>>>>
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:11 PM   #11
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Thats tight! Bet its fun as hell! i wanna do the same, but im still debating whether to get a ej207 or ej257... still trying to add up all the costs and see which one is less hassel...
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Old 06-14-2010, 03:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
but they all eventually bolted right up and I repinned the old connector.
By repinned, do you mean you took the connector that was on your harness side, lopped it off, and soldered on the one from your JDM harness?

In reusing the shielded cable from the JDM harness, how did you remove the pins from the JDM harness's connector? I'm doing pretty much the same thing you did (no E85 as it's not available), and right now AVCS is my main concern.

Finally, any problems with the threads on your power steering pump? Both power steering and AC compressor work on my car, so I could lay each on on the side of my car without disconnecting either.
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:31 PM   #13
02 Scoob-TN
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Exclamation Help..

When I say repinned, I pulled the whole wire complete with pin from back of the connector. To do it you have to release the retaining clips on the plugs themselves (one main retainer for the plug and then one on each wire in the plug). I used a set of eyeglass screwdrivers(small flathead). Search for repin and you should find a few write ups with pics. I just pulled the AVCS wiring from the partial jdm harness that i got with my swap(lucky). You move/reuse four pins on your usdm harness(battery side) and then add the 4 from the JDM one and run those to the pass side plug. I kept referencing diagrams I found on this forum and was able to easily ID what wires to pull once I looked at the back of the JDM ecu plug and compare what was on the USDM ecu plug. Literally took like an hour. No cels, pullin like a mule. No thread issues either on the power steering just visually compare the two and dont force anything. let me know if you need more help. Didnt take pics but may be able to add some to help.
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:09 AM   #14
K.Linchpin
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I didn't find any repin writeups so I played around with the JDM harness last night a little anyways. I was able to remove a couple pins from the ECU side connector, but when putting the pins back into the connector, unless I pushed the connector retainer back down, the pins don't hold themselves in place anymore. I'm sure they'll work fine, but I do wonder if there's a way of resetting them after you pull them out.

What sucks however is the fact that the guys that sold the motor to me lopped off the Gray connector that houses the pins you need to steal from the JDM harness. This means I need to find out who makes those connectors so I can buy some pins and make my own AVCS cable. Any chance anyone here knows who makes those connectors and pins?
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:21 PM   #15
02 Scoob-TN
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Phat-Tuned RIP Bugeye

Exclamation 120 mph speed limiter..

Ok so last night I got into one of those situations were you have to get it, get it and I was almost pinched because of the 120 mph speed limter on the JDM ECU. lol!! You should have seen my face, thank god chevy malibu's are the slowest cars ever. Had a half mile start on em and was pulling away heavy then brumm.. speed cut. Still got lucky and dove off an exit and was home free. Wow Ive got to get a tactrix cable fast...Just waiting for my megan exhaust and an intake to arrive. Then its off to the tuners for some E85 action. ETA mid July for an update with hopefully some dyno results.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:52 AM   #16
i2cou4u2
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I have just a few questions about the swap, do you use the JDM EJ207 engine harness or did you use the USDM EJ205 engine harness? I have a local tuner shop that is telling me that I need to use my EJ205 engine harness and not the JDM engine harness that came with my V8 EJ207. I was under the impression that the motor is a direct swap. That I use the JDM 207 harness and plug it into my USDM chassis harness and run the IA Performance AVCS harness to use the AVCS system and plug it all into the JDM ECU. Is this correct or am I missing something? I have tried to find a thread that goes over the swap but I have not had any luck. If any one can point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

Thanks

Tom
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:26 AM   #17
K.Linchpin
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No, you're right. You use the JDM EJ207 harness as it is correctly wired for your EJ207. The car's harness is what needs to be modified. You make the modifications to your car's wiring harness to account for the AVCS and the lack of TGV's. I can provide you with a PDF that outlines the changes required. Basically you move 4 pins on the ECU connector, move 4 pins on the black connector behind the battery that plugs into the engine harness. Then you either use the IA Performance cable or make your own to go between the ECU connector and the Grey connector by the boost control solenoid that also plugs into the engine harness.

Hope that helps.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:47 AM   #18
i2cou4u2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
No, you're right. You use the JDM EJ207 harness as it is correctly wired for your EJ207. The car's harness is what needs to be modified. You make the modifications to your car's wiring harness to account for the AVCS and the lack of TGV's. I can provide you with a PDF that outlines the changes required. Basically you move 4 pins on the ECU connector, move 4 pins on the black connector behind the battery that plugs into the engine harness. Then you either use the IA Performance cable or make your own to go between the ECU connector and the Grey connector by the boost control solenoid that also plugs into the engine harness.

Hope that helps.

A PDF file would be great outlining the changes. I purchased the IA Performance harness and the kit comes with the wire that go behind the battery to the ECU and the wires that go to the connector by the boost controller. Is the only reason that you move wires in the ECU connectors to power the AVCS...or is it a wiring difference that if I don't move them it will fry the ECU when powered on?

Thanks

Tom
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:25 PM   #19
02 Scoob-TN
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You would only need the pdf if your going to use the stock harnesses and extract the missing connections from the ej207 harness and add them to the ej205 harness. Anyway you do it, you do it all at the ecu and black connector by battery and grey plug near boost solenoid. If you have the IA kit, then your pretty much good to go. Drop the engine in and follow IA's instructions on the harness adapter and repins, right? Search for Import Tuners mag write up on the swap they did, they have pics of the plugs.
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:48 PM   #20
K.Linchpin
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pulling the pins out of the connectors is kinda tricky. I'm a electrical engineer and I had trouble with it. Patience persevered. Having the impreza wiring harness my "front clip" came with was nice because I was able to practice with it. I was afraid I was pulling too hard on the pins at first. If 02 Scoob-TN's suggested document has pics of removing the pins, that would be pretty clutch. There's definitely a technique required to pull them out. Otherwise, the DS1 Motorsports PDF that I would send you will tell you roughly the same thing the IA Performance doc says. PM me your email addy and I'll send you the doc.

I failed to move the pins that were previously for the TGV on the ECU and drove around for a little while before I realized the AVCS wasn't working. Somehow I forgot. Quite embarrassing. Nothing got fried .
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:59 PM   #21
02 Scoob-TN
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Phat-Tuned RIP Bugeye

Default This should help..

Quoted**
Back under the engine bay, we had yet another dilemma. When it came to wiring the engine we were stuck on two options. We have the STI engine harness and cabin harness so we could either take the dash out and wire up the whole car or we could figure out what the main difference was between the U.S.- and STi-spec. We ended up taking an extra day figuring out the wiring to simplify the process, and with help from Irvine Subaru and XS Engineering, we were able to narrow down the wiring to eight additional wires over the U.S. spec. Now we were left with using the STi engine harness with a modified U.S.-spec cabin harness. What made life much easier was that the STi doesn't use the tumble valves found on the U.S. spec and the wires that control the valves run in the same plug as the AVCS wiring. Not only do they share the same engine plug, they also share the same ECU plug. Now the wiring work is down to hooking up two cam sensors to the ECU. There are four wires total but the tricky part was that the wires are for magnetic pick up. This also requires putting the necessary shielding around the wires which adds one additional wire to the mix. The only wires that were left from the U.S.-spec harness not needed on the STi, included a tumble valve position sensor and an exhaust temp sensor, but unfortunately neither are shielded nor run in the same harness as the OEM plug for the cam sensors. What was needed was to physically run shielded wire from the engine harness to the ECU. On the driver side of the engine harness, we found that by moving four of the wires on the brown plug up one level the once-tumble-valve wires were now converted to the AVCS solenoids. On the ECU side, four wires needed to be jumped to a different pin location but all on the same ECU plug. Even the cam sensor wires shared the same ECU plug as the AVCS wires. Eight simple wires converted our normal U.S.-spec harness to STi trim, saving us from the headache of pulling the dash apart to wire the car.

It was a very time-consuming process but with these quick notes we are sure any Subaru owner will be able to convert their car as easy as we did. Take our advice, run the extra wires rather than pulling the whole cabin harness out. It took us a day to figure it out but will only take you 30 minutes to wire the sensors up.





On the driver's-side harness, the black harness contains the AVCS solenoid wires. By jumping the wires up one row we were able to use the tumble valve wiring for the solenoid wiring. Keep in mind, we also had to jump the ECU wiring around.



Here you will see the additional wires being added to the gray plug near the boost solenoid.



Running the four cam sensor wires and jumping the now-AVCS wires was all done on the same ECU plug. Since the AVCS took over the U.S.-spec tumble valve wires, all that was needed was a quick pin jump.



A: Passenger's side cam sensor; B: Passenger's side AVCS solenoid; C: Driver's side cam sensor; D: Shielding for cam sensor wires; E: Driver's side AVCS solenoid.

**Sourced from Import Tuner mag see: http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0311...ion/index.html

Guys, join my Club on the Forum its called Club EJ207, soon to be lots of links there with lots of info on these swaps.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/group.php?groupid=123
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:26 PM   #22
02 Scoob-TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
pulling the pins out of the connectors is kinda tricky. If 02 Scoob-TN's suggested document has pics of removing the pins, that would be pretty clutch.
I have extra plug ends I could possibly post pics of the repin process. It gets easier after you move a few. Ill try to post some later when Im home.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:29 PM   #23
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I am almost done with my EJ207 swap, so I took some pics of the A/C and power steering reservoir differences to confirm fitment.


As you can see from this pic, the power steering reservoir on the JDM outlet (steering rack side) is different from the USDM one. The JDM reservoir outlet angles downward whereas the USDM is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the reservoir. The EJ207 I got had the lines clipped at the rack, which necessitated me to use the USDM line, so I ended resuing the USDM reservoir.


Because I am reusing the the USDM power steering lines, the fitment at the pump was a bit of a headache. In this picture, the line (copper-colored) installed is the USDM. The aluminum-colored line is the JDM power steering line. As you can see, the length of the line where it bends down toward the pump is slightly different; the USDM is shorter, whereas the JDM one is a bit longer. In order to thread the USDM line onto the JDM power steering pump (which I had to because the line was cut), you have to push down while threading the bolt. The line bolts down but just with a bit of effort. No leaks....so far. The one thing I am concerned is that the line does exert a bit of pressure on the inlet, I'll keep an eye on it.

-Jeff
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Old 01-14-2018, 10:56 AM   #24
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[quote=02 Scoob-TN;33132991]Quoted**
...

**Sourced from Import Tuner mag see: http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0311...ion/index.html

Anyone have a link to this issue or a pdf of the article? Trying to figure out a couple of connections on my ej207 swap. Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2023, 02:02 AM   #25
HellaDizzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 Scoob-TN View Post
Hey guys my V8 ej207 swap is on its way and Ive researched all my potential questions but still have a few. Im swaping this into a 2002 usdm wrx sedan. I bought a low mile longblock with all accesories. Ive read that the ac compressor and ps pump can be a problem. My current ac pump on my usdm is shot. Im wanting to try to drop this bad boy in and use all the accesories on it especially since they have under 25k on them. The only points I could find on doing this is that the jdm ac wiring is a bit different at the pump and the ps pump/lines are setup for LHD. Any experiences or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Is it just a matter of changing the ps lines connectors, I can weld and have the equiptment if so. And is the ac issue just a matter of adding a relay or a ground wire to work? I may just hard wire a switch to activate the ac clutch if I had to but would rather keep it clean. Below is a list of what Ive found to expect to have to do. Please respond with any info Im forgetting and any info on the above issues.

Whats comming:
V8 ej207 complete with accesories, ts turbo, manifold, uppipe,downpipe, intercooler, engine harness, cut cabin harness and ECU.

What I already expect to have to do when it arrives:
Wire for AVCS and swap some pinouts(or get IA kit).
Fab extension to connect jdm downpipe to usdm catback.
Opensource tune for 93, since jdm is ~94ron.

Future mods:
Want to go e85(they sell it all over town here) so, 850+ injectors, fuel pump, rails, fpr, e85 compliant fuel filter, Grimspeed boost solenoid, cai, inlet, fab up a ts downpipe and add an aftermarket catback and retune.

Way in the future mods:
Blouch twinscroll (in development) or other aftermarket upgrade 600+ cfm
Upgraded Topmount, EWG,BOV
Upgraded brakes and tranny gears(keeping it 5 speed)


What im unsure of:
Using jdm air conditioning compressor.
Using jdm ps pump.
Does the usdm wrx maf work fine.
Does the stock usdm boost solenoid work fine.


Thanks for any input.

Andrew
I just turned the USDM AC Compressor hose around and it works the way the JDM Ac hose is bent and they cut it.. the oil dip stick is a bit hard to pull out but it works with the JDM AC Compressor but it saves you time and
money
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