Aquamist (Water injection) questions and answers here...

[JMlegacy]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

You are perfectly correct about the tee location.

What system do you have? All our current systems are triggered by idc % so the boost signal is irrelevant.

Was building a lightweight system using your pump, another guy's nozzle, a hobbs switch and some solenoids, tank with low level, and some relays for the poor man failsafe (boost solenoid cut) from low level, but i needed something to detect lack of flow, and that isn't easy i realize.

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[Aquamist]

Low level failsafe is better than no failsafe.
If the wmi operation is not critical and tuned for, it is fine.

[JMlegacy]

Ok. The nozzle I bought was 290cc @ 200psi i think.

Injector 520cc and i am currently at 90% IDC (2 liter engine). Thinking if i go pure water i would have to tune more aggressively, so a 50/50 at that low level and maybe a .5 leaner, 1-2 degree more timing and 2 psi more boost, if something goes wrong at that elevated tuned for level, i'm thinking i'd be much safer?

[ddavisgt]

Do you know if adding a tank filter will cause less flow bars on the gauge if its already setup without a tank filter? Still wondering if I should just adjust the SC to tune it out, or if its some other issue I havent been able to track down.

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by JMlegacy

Ok. The nozzle I bought was 290cc @ 200psi i think.

Injector 520cc and i am currently at 90% IDC (2 liter engine). Thinking if i go pure water i would have to tune more aggressively, so a 50/50 at that low level and maybe a .5 leaner, 1-2 degree more timing and 2 psi more boost, if something goes wrong at that elevated tuned for level, i'm thinking i'd be much safer?

Once tuned, you have shifted the OE safe operating area, this is a chance that ECU cannot provide full protection. I am not an expert on this. I like to be on the safe side.

I have no problem with people designing their own system, getting a failsafe to work effectively is very involved. I suggest you buy an aftermarket flow monitoring device to help you protecting your engine. Unfortunately we no longer offer one as it is very time consuming to integrate with a third party wmi system properly.

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by ddavisgt

Do you know if adding a tank filter will cause less flow bars on the gauge if its already setup without a tank filter? Still wondering if I should just adjust the SC to tune it out, or if its some other issue I havent been able to track down.

I am not the best person to give you an accurate answer as the link provide next to nothing information on the construction, mesh size and material used.

I am not sure what system you have but if you have an aquamist, tank filter and post-FAV filter come as standard. No need to have an addition filter.

[yellow97tt6spd]

Hello,

I purchased one of your HFS-5 kits, back when it first came out, and am finally getting around to installing it. Lol.

It's going on a 97 Supra, and I was hoping you could tell me what, if anything, I should replace before installing it. Most of the o-rings (on my fittings) look a bit suspect, but that's about it. Not that that really matters though, as it looks like you recommend a new sort of compression fitting now anyway. Also, I believe each nozzle base has a built in check valve now, something I want (had a friend hydrolock his motor, due to the pump valve failing/ siphoning), and need (tank is directly above my pump, which is a foot above the intercooler bung).

Bests,
Brian

[Aquamist]

You must be one of the "oldest" new install known to me.

First of all, you'll be advised to replace all your current push-in fittings to compression fittings. We only recommend use checkvalve-jet for directly port application.

Can you tell me does your hydrolock friend uses a aquamist system? I like to know more as I have not heard this once for the last 15 years.

[yellow97tt6spd]

Hello again!

I started a full thread (2jz). Ill write the hydrolock story there... Along with what I *believe* I need. Please take a peak, and let me know what you think. Thanks!

Bests,
Brian

[Aquamist]

Thanks for the link and new thread.

Reading through the other thread you created, the issue was caused by a leaky checkvalve, filling the intercooler over night when parked on a slope. I like to point out none of the aquamist system relies on a checkvalve to stop syphoning.

You posted on this aquamist specific thread and claimed someone experienced hydrolocking their motor. Comment such as this can spread like wild fire by other unscrupulous competing wmi makers.

Can you please confirm the makes of the wmi system, we have had a totally clean record on this issue to date.

Thanks
Richard

[yellow97tt6spd]

Hello Richard,

My apologies! I never meant to imply that the leak was an Aquamist kit... It was NOT.

He had a pieced together kit. I only mentioned it, as my rationale for wanting check valves. I posted in your section because i have an HFS-5 (that i ordered *because* of your multiple safety features, and excellent track record).

Again, my apologies!

Now, as for my other thread, please let me know if my calculations are correct. Thanks!

Best Regards,
Brian

[Aquamist]

Thanks for the clarification.

[Hyper]

my new surge tank




still have to figure out how to modify the spec c tank so it doesn't leak on the ouput

[Aquamist]

I prefer the soda bottle

Honestly, very nice

[Hyper]

as I finished up inistallation and eliminated all leaks, decided to test the system and accidently switched polarity of the priming pump, it still worked, but probably the other way

I don't know if that was the cause, but system didn't spray with the blue wire ungrounded
went on to check for problems, and it appears my pressure switch (806-162) failed - no resistance measured across both contacts

am I right?
if so, this is the second time my pressure switch fails, is there any special way this unit should be handled?

in the mean time, will be giving Jeff @ Howerton another call for a replacement unit

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by Hyper

as I finished up inistallation and eliminated all leaks, decided to test the system and accidently switched polarity of the priming pump, it still worked, but probably the other way

I don't know if that was the cause, but system didn't spray with the blue wire ungrounded
went on to check for problems, and it appears my pressure switch (806-162) failed - no resistance measured across both contacts

am I right?
if so, this is the second time my pressure switch fails, is there any special way this unit should be handled?

in the mean time, will be giving Jeff @ Howerton another call for a replacement unit

The 806-162 will not affect the flow, especially it has no resistance.

[johnmx3ze]

hey guys i need help here... i posted on the aquamist forum but no anwsers

i just installed a new hfs-6 kit on my built 09 wrx, im pretty sure everything is hooked up right but heres my problem...

1st i put water in the tank until level sensor was fully up then i turned key to on position and the yellow led light up for 10 secs and then turned off and no other leds lighted up on the gauge... all lights on control box were green, then i tryed testing the pump with the prk jumper on the test link and turned key on and the pump started after 10 secs and water came out of the hose so then i turned it off and put jumper back on prk... but now everytime i put the key to the on position it sprays :/ and the gauge does not any leds anymore... no yellow or blue led... and the button is depressed...

not sure what im doing wrong so any help would be appreciated

if someone could walk me through the first test to do, thanks

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by johnmx3ze

hey guys i need help here... i posted on the aquamist forum but no anwsers

i just installed a new hfs-6 kit on my built 09 wrx, im pretty sure everything is hooked up right but heres my problem...

1st i put water in the tank until level sensor was fully up then i turned key to on position and the yellow led light up for 10 secs and then turned off and no other leds lighted up on the gauge... all lights on control box were green, then i tryed testing the pump with the prk jumper on the test link and turned key on and the pump started after 10 secs and water came out of the hose so then i turned it off and put jumper back on prk... but now everytime i put the key to the on position it sprays :/ and the gauge does not any leds anymore... no yellow or blue led... and the button is depressed...

not sure what im doing wrong so any help would be appreciated

if someone could walk me through the first test to do, thanks

It appeared to be loose ground (white wire) or one of the RJ connector is loose.

[Hyper]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

The 806-162 will not affect the flow, especially it has no resistance.

got it
searched aquamist forums, followed instructions and connected two pins on the 806-162 together which should stop the pump - it didn't, pump stays on all the time silently buzzing and priming pump works all the time too, failsafe orange LED on

what I tried (with the priming pump connected and operational to insure main pump has water):

1. no leaks found, tried adjusting 806-162 slightly both directions, didn't help
2. disconnected output hose from the pump to make sure its pushing water
3. disassembled 806-201 to make sure no air is trapped there
4. bypassed FAV and connected jet right after the pump (3 meters of hose) - very weak spray, I assume this is normal since no pressure is built

could the pump blow the seal by running only few seconds dry? As I stated I connected priming pump with wrong polarity, so it was probably sucking instead of pushing for a few seconds

tomorrow I am going to try to ground center wire of the pump to see if it stops or not

this is really depressing, so much time and effort put into it, it worked beautifully a week ago when I tested everything and now this

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by Hyper

got it
searched aquamist forums, followed instructions and connected two pins on the 806-162 together which should stop the pump - it didn't, pump stays on all the time silently buzzing and priming pump works all the time too, failsafe orange LED on

what I tried (with the priming pump connected and operational to insure main pump has water):

1. no leaks found, tried adjusting 806-162 slightly both directions, didn't help
2. disconnected output hose from the pump to make sure its pushing water
3. disassembled 806-201 to make sure no air is trapped there
4. bypassed FAV and connected jet right after the pump (3 meters of hose) - very weak spray, I assume this is normal since no pressure is built

could the pump blow the seal by running only few seconds dry? As I stated I connected priming pump with wrong polarity, so it was probably sucking instead of pushing for a few seconds

tomorrow I am going to try to ground center wire of the pump to see if it stops or not

this is really depressing, so much time and effort put into it, it worked beautifully a week ago when I tested everything and now this

Sounded like the pump has trapped air. Prime the pump again with plenty of gravity feed line.
Grounding the centre pin of the pump should stop the pump. Also check the centre pin is not no pushed out of the plug housing or corroded.

It is always difficult to diagnose a 10 years old system, problems are no longer to caused by the system issue.

[Hyper]

Grounding center pin of the pump stops the pump
primed the pump using two methods - gravity fed and priming pump

took apart the pump completely, including the center piece, to make sure I get rid of all possible air, still same thing

also while buzzing I tried adjusting the 806-162 and when I adjusted it almost all the way CCW it stopped the pump.... I made a picture of the minimum switch position where the pump shuts off, if I try to adjust it CW just a bit - pump starts buzzing again

[johnmx3ze]

Originally Posted by Aquamist

It appeared to be loose ground (white wire) or one of the RJ connector is loose.

i got everything working but im having a hard time figuring out how to setup fail safe :s

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by Hyper

Grounding center pin of the pump stops the pump
primed the pump using two methods - gravity fed and priming pump

took apart the pump completely, including the center piece, to make sure I get rid of all possible air, still same thing

also while buzzing I tried adjusting the 806-162 and when I adjusted it almost all the way CCW it stopped the pump.... I made a picture of the minimum switch position where the pump shuts off, if I try to adjust it CW just a bit - pump starts buzzing again

The 806162 is doing exactly what it suppose to do, limiting the line pressure. I don't see any problem there.

It appears the pump is not making enough pressure for the 806-162 to switch it off.

[Aquamist]

Originally Posted by johnmx3ze

i got everything working but im having a hard time figuring out how to setup fail safe :s

So what was the problem you solved?

[Hyper]

judging by the photo, do you think the adjustment screw is too much out? it was inwards more, before, when the system was working. In other words with two threads sticking out could you say its set at OEM pressure (7 bars I think?)
if its the pump, not making enough pressure what else can I check in it? I already took apart and cleaned the internal shaft