Did I make a mistake in wiring without connectors?

ants wrx · 03-26-2003, 06:24 PM

hey guys, i've had my MB quart components wired up for probably a month now and they sound great (powered by alpine 7894 for now)

everytime i see pictures of installs or whatnot i keep seeing wires with connectors on them being connected to the speaker, and same with the crossover terminals.

i just stripped the wires and wrapped the bare copper around the screw terminal on the speakers and i did the samething with the crossover.

is this a mistake? do i need those little connectors?

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brunetmj · 03-26-2003, 09:38 PM

Well I am no expert but i would say since it is not in a high corrosion area , or an area where wires get pulled on , i would say dont worry about it. I have seen worse.

FordX · 03-27-2003, 08:38 AM

That is fine so long as they are secure and you are sure that they will not ground against anything that is metal (ie, touch a door panel or something).

Alan · 03-27-2003, 11:28 AM

You don't need connectors IF you soldered the wires to the terminals. If you just wrapped them, they will run the risk of eventually vibrating free causing bad connections, or perhaps even the chance of coming fully loose and shorting to each other or ground, which can damage the amp or head unit.

malomker · 03-27-2003, 11:58 AM

They'll definately bounce loose at some point and really piss you off by cutting in and out. I used solder on mine and even the damn solder broke the first couple of times. I got so mad that I got a huge soldering gun and soldered the heck out of it and it has been fine ever since.

The doors on my `96 leaked pretty bad. The connectors were corroded after a couple years. If I had to do it over again (and I just might if I buy an `04) I'd get one of those foam cups that goes over the back of the speaker to protect the cone/connections better.

tdxflex · 03-27-2003, 05:44 PM

connectors can also fall off. it's essentially doing the same thing as just using the bare wire, except usually connectors are made of different material that resist corrosion but first off if anything will rust i'll put money on the speaker magnet going before the wire/terminal ends.
i don't use connectors because i never have the right size and usually have to crimp them down. i just make two long strands, stick one strand through the small hole and wrap around one way, then wrap the other strand around it. never had a problem. could it be cleaner of course, but it's in the door and as long as it works it's fine for me. i don't know who uses connectors for crossovers, you've gotta be either really anal or go into competitions where you pretty much get graded on your install. i usually solder everything but never had a problem with my speakers to change my ways. i solder everything behind the dash because there's so much more junk behind there you have a bigger risk of something coming loose when you jam everything back in there.

ants wrx · 03-27-2003, 05:59 PM

hey guys thanks for the responses, very helpful. i guess i will leave it that way, and when (eventually) i get an amp to power the speakers i will bust the door open again and see if anything went wrong. i put the screws VERY tight so i doubt they will losen any time soon.

oh and tdxflex, i dont know if you remember me or not, but we met at erics house that day we were getting our EGT guage tapped. thanks for the response.

tdxflex · 03-27-2003, 06:25 PM

oh hey, what's up? yeah that was a really long time ago. you have the sbc-id and uppipe right? i wouldn't worry about it unless something comes loose. it might happen, but chances are you'll be fine. also the corrosion will only reduce the surface area contact. if you really wanted to fix it up you can take a dremel and a sanding or polishing drum to it. but i've seen a lot of old speakers and i'll tell you that the amount of corrosion on the terminals is nothing compared to the amount that builds up on your battery terminals.

armand1 · 03-28-2003, 10:14 PM

The one nice thing about using connectors in wet areas (like the door) is that there is constant mechanical pressure holding the contact surfaces together. If you put a dab of silicone dielectric grease in each female connector before plugging in the male connector, you'll have a connection that won't come lose, and also won't corrode (the grease seals out the water). I use crimp-on female connectors for my speakers, but don't always use connectors on the screw-down terminals in the crossovers. I always use dielectric grease for all connectors under the hood or inside the doors.

C-EZ · 03-28-2003, 11:57 PM

You should just make sure it's soldered properly and covered not to short out.

In my car when I upgraded my whole stereo system I also ran all new Monster Cable in the car which provided a much better connection from the HU to speaker.

Peace!

C-EZ

www.c-ez.net

philip_g · 03-29-2003, 12:30 AM

I think a WELL soldered connection is 10 times stronger than a crimp connect, they always seem to work loose if the wires start to corrode and get brittle.

Be sure to use good tape too, 3m or something equal, the cheap stuff sucks

mikkyo · 03-30-2003, 01:54 PM

I agree.
However, one should note that the entire car is held together with crimp connects.
All the electrical everywhere.
The pins in all the plugs are crimped on.
These are all done by machine though, so the quality is far better than a hand crimp job.

Alan · 03-30-2003, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by philip_g
I think a WELL soldered connection is 10 times stronger than a crimp connect, they always seem to work loose if the wires start to corrode and get brittle.

Be sure to use good tape too, 3m or something equal, the cheap stuff sucks

Properly done a crimped connection is as good as soldering. It has the advantage that the wires are not filled with solder outside of the connection, the solder in the wires that wicks up into the wire, makes it brittle compared with the normal wire. Of course to do a proper crimp ones needs a good crimping tool. Which are not cheap. And there are specific tools for different connectors.

As an avionics technician we got instruction on proper FAA approved ways to make a wire connection. The only ways that are really practical and safe are crimping with proper crimping tools, and solder, with heat shrink to protect the connection.

And heat shrink tubing is one of the best things to use in LOTS of situations. Along with zip ties, it's a wonderful material!!

philip_g · 03-30-2003, 03:18 PM

avionics tech, in tigard.. who do you work for? couldn't be FLIR?

Alan · 03-30-2003, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by philip_g
avionics tech, in tigard.. who do you work for? couldn't be FLIR?

I don't work as an avionics tech anymore, back in 1988-92 I worked for, and eventually ran, the avionics department of Aero Air out in Hillsboro. And it was a fun thing to do for a while, as I could fly to work somedays, and then get to spend the day playing with planes, electronics and test gear. Plus I learned how to wire and install stuff so it will survive vibration and g forces. Which is a good idea in automotive stuff too. And I got to work in jets, vintage warbirds, experimentals and more mundane planes. So that was fun and interesting...

And I did know some folks at FLIR.

philip_g · 03-31-2003, 09:24 PM

Ahhh I see.
I did my private training out at MMV before moving out here to attend a large part 141 school and getting everything else up to CFII.. of course now the job market goes to hell

I used to work on 72nd at IET, right across the street from FLIR, the news helicopter (ch 2? the jet ranger) used to land in their parking lot. VERY cool

03-26-2003, 06:24 PM	#1
ants wrx Scooby Specialist Member#: 17885 Join Date: Apr 2002 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Kearny, NJ Vehicle: 2006 Scion xB 93 RB25det powered 240sx	did i make a mistake in wiring without connectors hey guys, i've had my MB quart components wired up for probably a month now and they sound great (powered by alpine 7894 for now) everytime i see pictures of installs or whatnot i keep seeing wires with connectors on them being connected to the speaker, and same with the crossover terminals. i just stripped the wires and wrapped the bare copper around the screw terminal on the speakers and i did the samething with the crossover. is this a mistake? do i need those little connectors? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

03-27-2003, 11:58 AM	#5
malomker Scooby Newbie Member#: 34237 Join Date: Mar 2003	Re: did i make a mistake in wiring without connectors They'll definately bounce loose at some point and really piss you off by cutting in and out. I used solder on mine and even the damn solder broke the first couple of times. I got so mad that I got a huge soldering gun and soldered the heck out of it and it has been fine ever since. The doors on my `96 leaked pretty bad. The connectors were corroded after a couple years. If I had to do it over again (and I just might if I buy an `04) I'd get one of those foam cups that goes over the back of the speaker to protect the cone/connections better.

03-28-2003, 11:57 PM	#10
C-EZ Scooby Newbie Member#: 16398 Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: CT Vehicle: 2002 WRX Rally Blue	I would solder! You should just make sure it's soldered properly and covered not to short out. In my car when I upgraded my whole stereo system I also ran all new Monster Cable in the car which provided a much better connection from the HU to speaker. Peace! C-EZ www.c-ez.net

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03-26-2003, 09:38 PM	#2
brunetmj Scooby Specialist Member#: 8023 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Way-upstate , NY Vehicle: 2019 Crosstrek white	Well I am no expert but i would say since it is not in a high corrosion area , or an area where wires get pulled on , i would say dont worry about it. I have seen worse.

03-27-2003, 08:38 AM	#3
FordX Scooby Newbie Member#: 28694 Join Date: Nov 2002 Vehicle: 1994 Ford Explorer Black	That is fine so long as they are secure and you are sure that they will not ground against anything that is metal (ie, touch a door panel or something).

03-27-2003, 11:28 AM	#4
Alan Scooby Specialist Member#: 3601 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Tigard, Oregon Vehicle: 2006 WRX Wagon BRIGHT BLUE!	You don't need connectors IF you soldered the wires to the terminals. If you just wrapped them, they will run the risk of eventually vibrating free causing bad connections, or perhaps even the chance of coming fully loose and shorting to each other or ground, which can damage the amp or head unit.

03-27-2003, 05:44 PM	#6
tdxflex Scooby Specialist Member#: 13634 Join Date: Dec 2001 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Boston Vehicle: 2002 WRX WRB	connectors can also fall off. it's essentially doing the same thing as just using the bare wire, except usually connectors are made of different material that resist corrosion but first off if anything will rust i'll put money on the speaker magnet going before the wire/terminal ends. i don't use connectors because i never have the right size and usually have to crimp them down. i just make two long strands, stick one strand through the small hole and wrap around one way, then wrap the other strand around it. never had a problem. could it be cleaner of course, but it's in the door and as long as it works it's fine for me. i don't know who uses connectors for crossovers, you've gotta be either really anal or go into competitions where you pretty much get graded on your install. i usually solder everything but never had a problem with my speakers to change my ways. i solder everything behind the dash because there's so much more junk behind there you have a bigger risk of something coming loose when you jam everything back in there.

03-27-2003, 05:59 PM	#7
ants wrx Scooby Specialist Member#: 17885 Join Date: Apr 2002 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Kearny, NJ Vehicle: 2006 Scion xB 93 RB25det powered 240sx	hey guys thanks for the responses, very helpful. i guess i will leave it that way, and when (eventually) i get an amp to power the speakers i will bust the door open again and see if anything went wrong. i put the screws VERY tight so i doubt they will losen any time soon. oh and tdxflex, i dont know if you remember me or not, but we met at erics house that day we were getting our EGT guage tapped. thanks for the response.

03-27-2003, 06:25 PM	#8
tdxflex Scooby Specialist Member#: 13634 Join Date: Dec 2001 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Boston Vehicle: 2002 WRX WRB	oh hey, what's up? yeah that was a really long time ago. you have the sbc-id and uppipe right? i wouldn't worry about it unless something comes loose. it might happen, but chances are you'll be fine. also the corrosion will only reduce the surface area contact. if you really wanted to fix it up you can take a dremel and a sanding or polishing drum to it. but i've seen a lot of old speakers and i'll tell you that the amount of corrosion on the terminals is nothing compared to the amount that builds up on your battery terminals.

03-28-2003, 10:14 PM	#9
armand1 Scooby Guru Member#: 10309 Join Date: Sep 2001 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Seattle, WA Vehicle: '02 OBS 2-tone! White	The one nice thing about using connectors in wet areas (like the door) is that there is constant mechanical pressure holding the contact surfaces together. If you put a dab of silicone dielectric grease in each female connector before plugging in the male connector, you'll have a connection that won't come lose, and also won't corrode (the grease seals out the water). I use crimp-on female connectors for my speakers, but don't always use connectors on the screw-down terminals in the crossovers. I always use dielectric grease for all connectors under the hood or inside the doors.

03-29-2003, 12:30 AM	#11
philip_g Scooby Specialist Member#: 32906 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Castle Rock CO	I think a WELL soldered connection is 10 times stronger than a crimp connect, they always seem to work loose if the wires start to corrode and get brittle. Be sure to use good tape too, 3m or something equal, the cheap stuff sucks

03-30-2003, 01:54 PM	#12
mikkyo Scooby Specialist Member#: 25399 Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Silly Valley, CA Vehicle: 2003 Impreza WRX Black	I agree. However, one should note that the entire car is held together with crimp connects. All the electrical everywhere. The pins in all the plugs are crimped on. These are all done by machine though, so the quality is far better than a hand crimp job.

03-30-2003, 03:18 PM	#14
philip_g Scooby Specialist Member#: 32906 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Castle Rock CO	avionics tech, in tigard.. who do you work for? couldn't be FLIR?

03-31-2003, 09:24 PM	#16
philip_g Scooby Specialist Member#: 32906 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Castle Rock CO	Ahhh I see. I did my private training out at MMV before moving out here to attend a large part 141 school and getting everything else up to CFII.. of course now the job market goes to hell I used to work on 72nd at IET, right across the street from FLIR, the news helicopter (ch 2? the jet ranger) used to land in their parking lot. VERY cool