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Old 09-17-2012, 10:21 PM   #326
Twiztidunreal
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Originally Posted by RallyNavvie View Post
Good choice. Which variant of the 700 did you pick up?

I was at the range yesterday getting data on the .308 now that the brake is installed. Unfortunately my load development didn't really give me much data because all 10 shots from each string pretty much ended up in a sub-minute group at 200 yards. At least I got some chrono data from them so I'll go with the one that had the most consistent velocity and use that recipe until I'm proficient enough at longer range to get a proper ladder test done.

The real fun was testing the subsonic loads I put together at 50 yards, both for stability and velocity data. Totally comparable to firing a .22 both in recoil and in sound. Turns out that with the 24" barrel with 11.25" 5R rifling that 168gr SMKs do not stabilize, they were leaving oblong holes in the paper. 190gr SMKs also don't stabilize all the time. Surprisingly it was the 175gr SMKs that I'm using for my regular handloads for the .308 that were consistently stable. 10gr of Trail Boss gives about 1050 fps.
Just the Regular .308 ADL model. Looking at either a Laminate wood stock, like I wanted from the Mossberg, or a Choate ultimate sniper stock. Then maybe a match barrel, and a 24x+ scope down the road.
As she sits now


Red illumination on scope


Green illumination on scope


at 300 yrds range
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:16 AM   #327
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Does that Harris have a lock on it? I just recently got lever locks put on both of mine and I can't believe I didn't do it earlier. I have an anti-cant on my cannon and it's so much easier now getting settled, level the rifle on the bipod, then lock it down. I used to have to check the level with my left eye while getting ready to shoot. I never could get enough torque on the thumbnut alone to lock it down completely.

It's a good looking rig. With how high that scope is sitting can you get a good cheek weld? I had that issue with my .308 and got a short cheekpad (cheap, stick-on type) to bring my face up a little more to align with the optics. Your existing cover should fit over it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:18 AM   #328
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I haven't been on the forums in awhile, but James mentioned something about the guns thread so I thought I would check it out. I'm the guy he was talking about that went to Badlands and shot the 6" steel plate at 1000yds. Let me clear some things up.

First, it wasn't a 6" steel plate. It was a 20x40" steel silhouette with a 10x10 steel flapper in the middle at 1000 yds.

Second, I took 28 total shots with 24 hits. Some were on the flapper some were not.

Third, the wind was between 12-15 mph because it was still early in the morning. The previous day we went out to 800 in 25-35mph wind, but the trace was impossible to see beyond that so we decided to try the next morning when the winds weren't so vicious.

Fourth, it wasn't luck. If you want to learn how to shoot I highly recommend Badlands. The last exercise before we graduated was a timed unknown distance course that was from 440 - 790 yds across 6 targets. I had 5 first shot hits.


Here is the rifle I did it with. A budget setup by any means. Total I think I have @ 1600 in it. Completely factory shooting factory Federal Gold Medal Match.

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Old 09-21-2012, 12:54 AM   #329
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Originally Posted by RallyNavvie View Post
Does that Harris have a lock on it? I just recently got lever locks put on both of mine and I can't believe I didn't do it earlier. I have an anti-cant on my cannon and it's so much easier now getting settled, level the rifle on the bipod, then lock it down. I used to have to check the level with my left eye while getting ready to shoot. I never could get enough torque on the thumbnut alone to lock it down completely.

It's a good looking rig. With how high that scope is sitting can you get a good cheek weld? I had that issue with my .308 and got a short cheekpad (cheap, stick-on type) to bring my face up a little more to align with the optics. Your existing cover should fit over it.
No lever lock, just the thumb nut, and yes it needs it!! lol, it aggravated me so much at the range, after ever 2-3 shots, it would not be level any more. So I will look at that option..

The scope is the perfect height. I shoot left handed(left eye dominate), so it seems to be the right height... I am looking at a getting a new stock in the next month or so. Either this wood laminate stock http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-A-Remingto...80956987533%26
or a Choate Ultimate varmint stock.http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937...ynthetic-black
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:32 AM   #330
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Here is the rifle I did it with. A budget setup by any means. Total I think I have @ 1600 in it. Completely factory shooting factory Federal Gold Medal Match.
And if you get rid of that stock you need to let me know. What do you do with your spent brass if you don't reload?
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:35 AM   #331
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Originally Posted by jerky007 View Post
I haven't been on the forums in awhile, but James mentioned something about the guns thread so I thought I would check it out. I'm the guy he was talking about that went to Badlands and shot the 6" steel plate at 1000yds. Let me clear some things up.

First, it wasn't a 6" steel plate. It was a 20x40" steel silhouette with a 10x10 steel flapper in the middle at 1000 yds.

Second, I took 28 total shots with 24 hits. Some were on the flapper some were not.

Third, the wind was between 12-15 mph because it was still early in the morning. The previous day we went out to 800 in 25-35mph wind, but the trace was impossible to see beyond that so we decided to try the next morning when the winds weren't so vicious.

Fourth, it wasn't luck. If you want to learn how to shoot I highly recommend Badlands. The last exercise before we graduated was a timed unknown distance course that was from 440 - 790 yds across 6 targets. I had 5 first shot hits.


Here is the rifle I did it with. A budget setup by any means. Total I think I have @ 1600 in it. Completely factory shooting factory Federal Gold Medal Match.

I was trying to make you sound good...
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:30 AM   #332
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Do they offer a left handed version?
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:41 AM   #333
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Do they offer a left handed version?
actually, they do.. i have only seen it in blue(which i cant find right handed) but i'm sure there are more colors

here is the blue one i want, but it's lefty..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130541996842...84.m1423.l2649
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:20 AM   #334
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And if you get rid of that stock you need to let me know. What do you do with your spent brass if you don't reload?
I'm going to start reloading eventually. For now I'm saving it. I have maybe 3-400 sitting around. I probably won't be getting rid of the stock. I'd replace the rifle before I did that.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:09 PM   #335
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I'm going to start reloading eventually. For now I'm saving it. I have maybe 3-400 sitting around. I probably won't be getting rid of the stock. I'd replace the rifle before I did that.
I have a decapping die so if you want I can punch out the primers on that lot so you can start prepping the brass. That first round of brass prep is the biggest PITA so you might want to get a head start on it. After a first firing I decap, ream/uniform the primer pocket, then deburr and chamfer the flash hole before dropping them in the sonic cleaner. Then they get sorted and stored. The tools to ream, uniform, chamfer, and deburr the primer/flash hole are pretty cheap (about $20 for both). It's something to do while watching TV because it's repetitive and doesn't require too much concentration.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:39 PM   #336
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Until you can't grab your beer anymore because your forearm has locked up after working through 400 cases.

<------------- Has done it too much.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:52 PM   #337
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Here is my newest toy. Just added the red dot a few minutes ago.

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Old 09-21-2012, 06:56 PM   #338
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Originally Posted by RallyNavvie View Post
I have a decapping die so if you want I can punch out the primers on that lot so you can start prepping the brass. That first round of brass prep is the biggest PITA so you might want to get a head start on it. After a first firing I decap, ream/uniform the primer pocket, then deburr and chamfer the flash hole before dropping them in the sonic cleaner. Then they get sorted and stored. The tools to ream, uniform, chamfer, and deburr the primer/flash hole are pretty cheap (about $20 for both). It's something to do while watching TV because it's repetitive and doesn't require too much concentration.
I appreciate the offer, but it's going to be a few months before I get any reloading gear. Always have trouble finding **** for my relatives to buy me for christmas since I usually just buy what I want. So they will be supplying me with reloading gear this year... of course they don't know that yet.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #339
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Until you can't grab your beer anymore because your forearm has locked up after working through 400 cases.
The trick is to stop before that happens. When you get into trouble is when you forget that you didn't prep those 400 cases and you wanted to hit the range this weekend. I usually decap as soon as I get back from shooting and then they sit on my coffee table with the tools until I prep them all over the course of a few weeks. Every time I get to 100 (or 50 from the magnum) I run the batch through the cleaner and stow them. After that first prep they only need the primer pocket brushed out after shooting so it goes a LOT quicker.

I've yet to trim my .300 WM brass but I heard .308 needs to be trimmed quite often. How often are you trimming back your necks? I don't seem to be much past spec and they chamber OK, but it's only a single firing from them so far.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #340
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The last time I trimmed 308 was months ago at my buddy's place. I think after the third round we decided enough was enough on the trimming since he was worried about proper seating.

And I decap and clean as soon as I get back from the range. But yeah, it's when you realize that you want to get some reloading done over a day or two that I always wind up doing all the prep in a few hours and then can't enjoy my "social time" later because my arm is contracted like a t-rex's.
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:46 AM   #341
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Fourth, it wasn't luck. If you want to learn how to shoot I highly recommend Badlands. The last exercise before we graduated was a timed unknown distance course that was from 440 - 790 yds across 6 targets. I had 5 first shot hits.
x2.. took sniper lever 1 and basic pistol at badlands, going back to take level 2 and carbine class next. I HIGHLY recommend badlands for any type of weapon training great staff and you will come back with a LOT of knowledge.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:00 PM   #342
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:50 PM   #343
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Well, my 17 year old sister is visiting from Norway, so I figured I had to show her some good american fun, so we went to the range.

She loved shooting a Ruger Mk.III .22lr, but my Walther PPQ 9mm proved a bit too jumpy for her. That being said, my boss does a CHL class down at that range and he took a break to come in and see us, asked "What are you shooting?" I said a .22 and my 9, he turns around saying "Let me get some of the big ****", comes back with a full auto Sten Gun and 4 mags.


Full Auto is fun! Video of wife laughing hysterically while shooting will come later.

All in all, a great day at the range.
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:44 PM   #344
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:44 AM   #345
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hey guys i wanna paint my DPMS AR-15 but idk how to do it and i kinda want ideas and opinions i was think of using the Krylon camo colors but like i said i need tips and tricks and things of that nature thanks for the help guys
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:30 PM   #346
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You can't use regular spray paint on firearm finishes. Well, technically, you can, but it will fade, chip, crack, scratch, stick, and look like total ****. Also, parts will stick and bind, and the oil that you lubricate our gun with will be extremely ineffective and you could absolutely destroy your rifle.

There's a product called Duracoat that is made specifically for guns. Google it.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:03 PM   #347
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Just thought I would give a heads up to the gun guys. I'm selling a range memebership in the TXIC classifieds
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:13 PM   #348
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I've seen some impressive Krylon jobs on precision bolt guns that hold up pretty well. Might not work the same on a gas gun as those probably run hot. Duracoat is better for the application, but if you're willing to spend the money to color your rifle for life then I'd look to a good cerakote job.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:49 PM   #349
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Yep. That's the issue with Kryloning a gas-impingement system weapon. The metal expands and contracts too rapidly and the paint can't expand with it, so it starts to cracks and then chips. I've seen ARs that look great before they were fired and then looked like they had been beaten with a hammer after a few hundred rounds.

Duracoat isn't that expensive. You don't even have to buy a spray system anymore, since they sell it in rattle cans. Spray, spray, spray, and then spray the coating on it and you're done.

I've done it. It's not that hard. You have to completely strip your weapon, but you'd have to do that anyway with Krylon, so it doesn't matter. Model 1 sales in Whiteright sells the kits with camo patterns if you're so inclined.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:41 PM   #350
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Krylon is fine for 95% of folks out there, is easily touched up, and can be removed if you do the work.

Check out the ar15.com Refinishing forum. Much more info than you'll ever get here.

I love Duracoat. I found that spending $10 on a cheap airbrush works a ton better than shooting it from a can, but I also have a pancake air compressor to run it. I got the best results when I disassembled everything painted the parts separately, but not all folks will go that far.
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