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09-17-2012, 10:21 PM | #326 | |
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Quote:
As she sits now Red illumination on scope Green illumination on scope at 300 yrds range
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09-18-2012, 08:16 AM | #327 |
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Does that Harris have a lock on it? I just recently got lever locks put on both of mine and I can't believe I didn't do it earlier. I have an anti-cant on my cannon and it's so much easier now getting settled, level the rifle on the bipod, then lock it down. I used to have to check the level with my left eye while getting ready to shoot. I never could get enough torque on the thumbnut alone to lock it down completely.
It's a good looking rig. With how high that scope is sitting can you get a good cheek weld? I had that issue with my .308 and got a short cheekpad (cheap, stick-on type) to bring my face up a little more to align with the optics. Your existing cover should fit over it. |
09-21-2012, 12:18 AM | #328 |
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I haven't been on the forums in awhile, but James mentioned something about the guns thread so I thought I would check it out. I'm the guy he was talking about that went to Badlands and shot the 6" steel plate at 1000yds. Let me clear some things up.
First, it wasn't a 6" steel plate. It was a 20x40" steel silhouette with a 10x10 steel flapper in the middle at 1000 yds. Second, I took 28 total shots with 24 hits. Some were on the flapper some were not. Third, the wind was between 12-15 mph because it was still early in the morning. The previous day we went out to 800 in 25-35mph wind, but the trace was impossible to see beyond that so we decided to try the next morning when the winds weren't so vicious. Fourth, it wasn't luck. If you want to learn how to shoot I highly recommend Badlands. The last exercise before we graduated was a timed unknown distance course that was from 440 - 790 yds across 6 targets. I had 5 first shot hits. Here is the rifle I did it with. A budget setup by any means. Total I think I have @ 1600 in it. Completely factory shooting factory Federal Gold Medal Match. |
09-21-2012, 12:54 AM | #329 | |
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Quote:
The scope is the perfect height. I shoot left handed(left eye dominate), so it seems to be the right height... I am looking at a getting a new stock in the next month or so. Either this wood laminate stock http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-A-Remingto...80956987533%26 or a Choate Ultimate varmint stock.http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937...ynthetic-black |
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09-21-2012, 08:32 AM | #330 |
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And if you get rid of that stock you need to let me know. What do you do with your spent brass if you don't reload?
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09-21-2012, 08:35 AM | #331 | |
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09-21-2012, 09:30 AM | #332 | |
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09-21-2012, 10:41 AM | #333 |
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actually, they do.. i have only seen it in blue(which i cant find right handed) but i'm sure there are more colors
here is the blue one i want, but it's lefty.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130541996842...84.m1423.l2649 |
09-21-2012, 11:20 AM | #334 |
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I'm going to start reloading eventually. For now I'm saving it. I have maybe 3-400 sitting around. I probably won't be getting rid of the stock. I'd replace the rifle before I did that.
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09-21-2012, 02:09 PM | #335 |
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I have a decapping die so if you want I can punch out the primers on that lot so you can start prepping the brass. That first round of brass prep is the biggest PITA so you might want to get a head start on it. After a first firing I decap, ream/uniform the primer pocket, then deburr and chamfer the flash hole before dropping them in the sonic cleaner. Then they get sorted and stored. The tools to ream, uniform, chamfer, and deburr the primer/flash hole are pretty cheap (about $20 for both). It's something to do while watching TV because it's repetitive and doesn't require too much concentration.
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09-21-2012, 02:39 PM | #336 |
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Until you can't grab your beer anymore because your forearm has locked up after working through 400 cases.
<------------- Has done it too much. |
09-21-2012, 05:52 PM | #337 |
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Here is my newest toy. Just added the red dot a few minutes ago.
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09-21-2012, 06:56 PM | #338 | |
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09-21-2012, 07:00 PM | #339 | |
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I've yet to trim my .300 WM brass but I heard .308 needs to be trimmed quite often. How often are you trimming back your necks? I don't seem to be much past spec and they chamber OK, but it's only a single firing from them so far. |
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09-21-2012, 07:41 PM | #340 |
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The last time I trimmed 308 was months ago at my buddy's place. I think after the third round we decided enough was enough on the trimming since he was worried about proper seating.
And I decap and clean as soon as I get back from the range. But yeah, it's when you realize that you want to get some reloading done over a day or two that I always wind up doing all the prep in a few hours and then can't enjoy my "social time" later because my arm is contracted like a t-rex's. |
09-23-2012, 11:46 AM | #341 | |
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09-26-2012, 02:00 PM | #342 |
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09-30-2012, 10:50 PM | #343 |
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Well, my 17 year old sister is visiting from Norway, so I figured I had to show her some good american fun, so we went to the range.
She loved shooting a Ruger Mk.III .22lr, but my Walther PPQ 9mm proved a bit too jumpy for her. That being said, my boss does a CHL class down at that range and he took a break to come in and see us, asked "What are you shooting?" I said a .22 and my 9, he turns around saying "Let me get some of the big ****", comes back with a full auto Sten Gun and 4 mags. Full Auto is fun! Video of wife laughing hysterically while shooting will come later. All in all, a great day at the range. |
09-30-2012, 11:44 PM | #344 |
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10-02-2012, 11:44 AM | #345 |
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hey guys i wanna paint my DPMS AR-15 but idk how to do it and i kinda want ideas and opinions i was think of using the Krylon camo colors but like i said i need tips and tricks and things of that nature thanks for the help guys
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10-02-2012, 02:30 PM | #346 |
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You can't use regular spray paint on firearm finishes. Well, technically, you can, but it will fade, chip, crack, scratch, stick, and look like total ****. Also, parts will stick and bind, and the oil that you lubricate our gun with will be extremely ineffective and you could absolutely destroy your rifle.
There's a product called Duracoat that is made specifically for guns. Google it. |
10-02-2012, 03:03 PM | #347 |
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Just thought I would give a heads up to the gun guys. I'm selling a range memebership in the TXIC classifieds
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10-02-2012, 04:13 PM | #348 |
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I've seen some impressive Krylon jobs on precision bolt guns that hold up pretty well. Might not work the same on a gas gun as those probably run hot. Duracoat is better for the application, but if you're willing to spend the money to color your rifle for life then I'd look to a good cerakote job.
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10-02-2012, 07:49 PM | #349 |
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Yep. That's the issue with Kryloning a gas-impingement system weapon. The metal expands and contracts too rapidly and the paint can't expand with it, so it starts to cracks and then chips. I've seen ARs that look great before they were fired and then looked like they had been beaten with a hammer after a few hundred rounds.
Duracoat isn't that expensive. You don't even have to buy a spray system anymore, since they sell it in rattle cans. Spray, spray, spray, and then spray the coating on it and you're done. I've done it. It's not that hard. You have to completely strip your weapon, but you'd have to do that anyway with Krylon, so it doesn't matter. Model 1 sales in Whiteright sells the kits with camo patterns if you're so inclined. |
10-02-2012, 10:41 PM | #350 |
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Krylon is fine for 95% of folks out there, is easily touched up, and can be removed if you do the work.
Check out the ar15.com Refinishing forum. Much more info than you'll ever get here. I love Duracoat. I found that spending $10 on a cheap airbrush works a ton better than shooting it from a can, but I also have a pancake air compressor to run it. I got the best results when I disassembled everything painted the parts separately, but not all folks will go that far. |
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