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Old 07-17-2014, 03:05 PM   #1026
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Willub knows this for a fact. lol
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:36 PM   #1027
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I saw this pic someone posted in the old school forum doing an EJ22 swap and it made me have bad thoughts.



Curb weight was 2000lbs.

Last edited by dwx; 07-20-2014 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:21 AM   #1028
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So speaking of weight reduction, what are some SM legal mods for weight reduction? My original plan for my car was ASP, but due to my engine rebuild, I landed squarely in SM. Fortunately my local club call "RTX" where non-stock classes can run street tires with an additional modifier to make the class more competitive for us guys not running slicks.

I know you can do a lightweight battery, racing seats, 2 piece rotors in ST* classes, and in street mod, I believe you can remove rear seats, perhaps even lightweight bumper beams...what else am I missing?
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:18 AM   #1029
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You can't do lightweight bumper beams.

It's all in the rule book. Start reading from ST through SM and it will list all the items you can replace/remove.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:22 AM   #1030
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The rulebook has a great list of items. In short in addition to SP you can remove back seats, all radio equipment, airbags, and seatbelt stuff.

Can't replace the bumper beams.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:18 AM   #1031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
You can't do lightweight bumper beams.

It's all in the rule book. Start reading from ST through SM and it will list all the items you can replace/remove.
I'm very aware of the rule book, and have browsed through it several times. I guess I should have phrased my question more like, what have others done with our cars specifically that they have found to be very effective for saving weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwx View Post
The rulebook has a great list of items. In short in addition to SP you can remove back seats, all radio equipment, airbags, and seatbelt stuff.

Can't replace the bumper beams.
Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:39 AM   #1032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
I'm very aware of the rule book, and have browsed through it several times.
If you had really read the rule book instead of just browsing you'd have seen the sections that list the items dwx mentions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
I guess I should have phrased my question more like, what have others done with our cars specifically that they have found to be very effective for saving weight.
We had a copy of the rule book out in the garage and started looking at all the parts on the car that could be changed and figured out how to make them lighter

The list of items and amount of man hours to save weight is enormous and changes from model to model (GC vs GD vs GR). What kind of budget are you working with to save weight? That alone will dictate how far you can go right now.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:58 PM   #1033
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The GR hood is steel. I'd ditch that bish. Losing the a/c in my GD dropped 22 pounds FWIW
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:03 PM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Its better when it catch on fire while you're racing and you have to put it out with the tire sprayer after every run.
As of this weekend, I finally own a true SM car:
(1:10 mark for the action)


Power steering line let go onto the turbo and made this small fire. Lucky for me the fire was put out before any real damage was done.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:14 PM   #1035
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Come on rookie, you drove right over the timing light cable.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:58 PM   #1036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 101rs View Post
As of this weekend, I finally own a true SM car:
(1:10 mark for the action)

Power steering line let go onto the turbo and made this small fire. Lucky for me the fire was put out before any real damage was done.
Nice!

Some day I'll have a real SM car. Something is bound to let go on mine soon, but I have a feeling it will just be a ringland
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:09 PM   #1037
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The fact I use an EJ25 crank with the number 4 bearing welded in place as a door stop for my shop should be proof enough for mine
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:01 PM   #1038
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Mine has eaten three transmissions...does that count?
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:31 PM   #1039
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Mine has eaten three transmissions...does that count?
That counts toward you being an idiot for not using the 6-speed. And if you broke 3 6-speeds then you're still an idiot
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:36 PM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
That counts toward you being an idiot for not using the 6-speed. And if you broke 3 6-speeds then you're still an idiot
mmmmm with a 2.5 and a real desire to win I would be in a tough decision zone between constantly blowing up 5 speed or running ****ty gearing from the 6 speed. With the 2.0 the 6 speed is a no brainer.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:13 PM   #1041
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Quote:
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mmmmm with a 2.5 and a real desire to win I would be in a tough decision zone between constantly blowing up 5 speed or running ****ty gearing from the 6 speed. With the 2.0 the 6 speed is a no brainer.
Pretty easy to solve the gearing problem IMO. I do like the gearing of the 5-speed more, and it's less weight up front. However, the DCCD and strength of the 6-speed wins in my book.

With cubic dollars it'd be even easier to fix the gearing, but I think I have a way to do low 70's in 2nd without breaking the bank. My problem is the new turbo/header this winter will break my yearly budget down to where I'll likely do the trans the following year. For now I'll have to live with 66 mph.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:47 PM   #1042
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The easy way to fix the gearing in 2nd with the 6 speed is to just rev over 8k.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:52 PM   #1043
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No, the generally ends with bad things happening in the engine. The easy way is fitting the right tire, the right transmission, and some special sauce.

If I had cubic dollars I'd build a destroker, sleeved back to 2.5 liters and rev to 9.5k. However, that setup would be more than the engine/trans/rear end/diffs/clutch I have now combined.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:56 PM   #1044
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Why bore it back out? That displacement doesnt help you much. Stroke is what helps spool bore is just kind of there so you can get a decent shaped combustion chamber and enough valve area. I'd rather have a 2.0 and rev to 8.5 and take the 1/2liter worth of weight of of the car, than have something that spools like a 2.0 and revs like a 2.0, is capable of making a bit more top end than a normal 2.0 but has to weigh as much as a 2.5.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:59 PM   #1045
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You're thinking in inline 4 terms. The 2.0 EJ207 doesn't spool like those, even with small short runners to a small turbo. I had one in my car, and the heads are still in the car right now. While it was great to rev to 8,400 it was a dog out of corners compared to the Evo and 2.5 STi's.

The 150 lbs I lose to the 2.0's is more than worth it on the EJ engine for that .5 liters helping with spool.

The point is to keep as much displacement as possible for power density, but the destroker for revs.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:03 PM   #1046
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But something with the stroke of an ej207 but bored to 2.5 is going to spool basically like a ej207. Bore doesnt have a very noticeable effect on spool.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:05 PM   #1047
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Hmm, it seems odd to me that increasing the volume of exhaust doesn't affect spool. I'd need to read more on the subject.

Needless to say, I'm not building one because I don't have cubic dollars. I'll stick with my standard EJ257 for now.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:08 PM   #1048
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I'm still surprised that an EJ207 with a vvt head, efr 6758 and a low mount manifold cant be spooled by 4k rpms. A power band from 4k to 8.5k should be wide enough.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:42 PM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I'm still surprised that an EJ207 with a vvt head, efr 6758 and a low mount manifold cant be spooled by 4k rpms. A power band from 4k to 8.5k should be wide enough.
With the gearing available 4K is too high to start, and 8.5K is a bit too low on the top end, necessitating a shift to third on a fast course with a good car.

Unfortunately the EJ series engine has quite a few limitations that only cubic dollars can overcome (or pure madness- trust me I know ).

Hope everyone is doing well. I hope to have my car back up and running next year, but things happen, and we shall see.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:54 PM   #1050
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If 4k is too high for the start of the power band then your **** just doesnt handle well enough. A 5500rpm wide powerband on an auto-x car would get you power from 35mph to 72mph. If there's any turn that your car cant take on a national level course above 35mph then it handles worse than most top level stock class cars. And ****, with the 07+ sti gears and 315's on 18s or 17s you're actually closer to 75mph at 8.5k in 2nd and thats more than enough speed for anything making under 500whp at an auto-x.
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