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Old 04-11-2016, 01:58 PM   #51
Rev_matchin
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Thank you sir! Im in the process of ordering whatever gauge steel i need and my edhaust tubing to fdab my blast pipes. God Im hoping it turns out like it is in my head
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:21 PM   #52
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Welp here goes nothing
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:24 PM   #53
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She's chilling on my lift at work so I'll hafta throw the strut back ij tomorrow morning since I need seam sealer and my supplies at home.. Sucks being a tech but not for body work lol. I need my lift back I'm feeling excited since this has been threatening my sleep for a while now
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:25 PM   #54
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Nice, what are you treating the metal with? I used SEM Rust Seal on my last one and after two years there was no new rust.

You could forget about the seat bracket holes and just weld them on once everything is in place.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:43 PM   #55
Rev_matchin
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Default Rust PSA for those with a 02+ Impreza wagons

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Originally Posted by Snowphun View Post
Nice, what are you treating the metal with? I used SEM Rust Seal on my last one and after two years there was no new rust.

You could forget about the seat bracket holes and just weld them on once everything is in place.

Well I bought "Por15 prep and ready", and "Loctite's Rust dissolver" as a trial and error. Only tried the Loctite's for a 1/2 hour and it clean up the water channel on the driver's side of the hatch-gasket area really well. It's a pink gel and it really stuck well and converted the rust to shiny new metal after I wire brushed the flakes off. . I def over thought the seat bracket and I also over-cut around the rust just to save the bracket's mounting holes but oh well. I'm really pumped and this post is awesome for those that are unaware.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:45 PM   #56
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The inner wheel well behind the strut tower is littered with small holes around 3-5in squared so this car really needs love. Thank god the undercarriage is still very clean so I think I saved this car (it was a close one though!)
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:11 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev_matchin View Post
The inner wheel well behind the strut tower is littered with small holes around 3-5in squared so this car really needs love. Thank god the undercarriage is still very clean so I think I saved this car (it was a close one though!)
I'm doing my second wagon this weekend, but if you look at other pictures you'll see rot also forms on the sides of the strut towers as well, this looks to be caused by the undercoating failing and water seeping in through the round holes in the outer layer of steel. I ground all the undercoating off on the front and side of the towers, treated the metal, used lots of seam sealer and then lots of undercoat. Some of the undercoatings are pretty crappy, I'm going to put down a layer of POR15 this time.

Don't cut any corners or you'll be back at it in a few years.
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:41 AM   #58
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Agreed! I just ordered 3m seam sealer for $28 from our parts delivery dude and had to drive it out as is in the rain to work today which hurt my spirits. It'll live in here tonight and I'll keep at it until the holes are filled, and the strut tower is formed to the side of the wheel well to prohibit anything from reaching the thin sheet metal that seals the interior. Then like you said..sealer sealer undercoating more undercoating haha. I'm getting anxious but this portion feels ok, it's the small stuff that I can't get to both sides that is really on my nerves. I mean the exterior 1/4 panel seals a lot of it in and then there are structures built for strength beyond that. I hope I can get to all of it without tearing her a new one lol. Post what you find this weekend if you can, I'm really getting into this battle!
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Old 04-12-2016, 03:07 PM   #59
sachilles
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Tough to see this thread comeback from the dead.
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:26 PM   #60
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Default Rust PSA for those with a 02+ Impreza wagons

well she's getting there. Now I need a thinner gauge of aluminum to seal up the area. Then seam sealer then undercoating.

Then beers haha

I hope this thread helps to motivate others. I seriously had a blast tonight although I'm very blessed to have access to the welder and lift at work and I wish I could share. It's such an accomplishment to save a wagon's life from the depths of a local boneyard
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:24 PM   #61
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IMO you need to grind off all the undercoating around those circles in your last picture and treat for rust, body seal then recover. That area is rusting you just can't see it yet.
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:13 AM   #62
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Actually I did notice one of the oval shaped holes starting so thanks for that!
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:37 AM   #63
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Picked up a MY05 9-2X, 100k miles southern CT car. No rust at all on the fenders, underneath is pretty rusty (exhaust in particular). Strut towers looked OK with a flashlight when inspecting the car, once I got it home and took the wheel off and gave it a good brushing there were small signs of rot. Removed the interior and no surprise there's rot, one side is worse than the other but all in all much better than my previous wagon and won't require any welding to fix. Still a PITA to remove the undercoating and prep everything, going to try POR15 this time and a Herculiner in the wheelwell if the POR15 doesn't seem sufficient.







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Old 04-23-2016, 09:40 PM   #64
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Cleaned up pretty nicely, POR15 looks like a good solution. I used the $20 demo kit, plenty of degreaser and rust converter, just enough paint for my rust situation. Followed that up with seam sealer then Herculiner in the wheel wells which was not worth it, would have been better off with more POR15.

Don't ignore this problem.







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Old 04-24-2016, 10:21 AM   #65
This Is Not Mike
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I'd recommend coating your repaired areas with some Fluid Film. It's some nasty stuff as far as getting liquidy goop everywehre, but I've had good experiences with it as far as keeping salt and other junk from settling on surfaces it shouldn't.

I've been treading my Tacoma since it was brand new and the coatings on their frames are known to be weak. By now most of the 2013 models I see (my year) have brown frames. Mine is still black as I've been coating it.

It would just be an extra level of protection for the repaired area.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:42 PM   #66
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This thread is a little old but I was wondering if there was any way to get a look for the interior rust without actually dismantling the interior. I could pop the rear wheels off and check out the wheel wells but it doesn't sound like the rust cancer shows nearly as much from the outside.

I'm looking to take an '02 wagon on trade and would like to inspect this area before I do anything. Iowa is no stranger to piling on salt and brine in the winters. I don't want a strut shooting through the tower a month after I get it.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:51 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy Dice View Post
This thread is a little old but I was wondering if there was any way to get a look for the interior rust without actually dismantling the interior. I could pop the rear wheels off and check out the wheel wells but it doesn't sound like the rust cancer shows nearly as much from the outside.

I'm looking to take an '02 wagon on trade and would like to inspect this area before I do anything. Iowa is no stranger to piling on salt and brine in the winters. I don't want a strut shooting through the tower a month after I get it.
It isn't easy to see much, my first car looked fine from the outside, a hint of rust under some broken undercoating. It even felt fairly solid but what I found was a large (4"x4") area of solid rusted metal through all three layers of steel that disappeared when I hit it with the wire wheel.

If you can take a wheel off, put it on a jack stand, get your head in the wheel well with a strong flashlight then really look around those seat bracket bolts and poke/pick at it with a screwdriver.
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Old 06-21-2016, 05:02 PM   #68
countriccati
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If it's starting from the inside and isn't terrible yet you won't be able to tell without removing the interior. No way around it.

To take everything out will take a solid hour working carefully to not break the plastic clips. It's really not bad at all, and you'll also be able to see if it's had any other issues in the past (hit and repaired, for instance).

If it's seen salt and/or has higher miles it most likely has some. If you can't see from underneath it won't be imminently catastrophic, so you should be fine for a little while...but it'll still be there. If you plan to keep it a while it's a bigger deal than if not.

Depending on how much you care, make a bigger or smaller fuss about it to the current owner, ask for the price to reflect the fact you have to assume it's there.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:09 AM   #69
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I had a dream last night that I got the car and after tearing it apart is was completely rusted...

Thanks for the replies. I might ask the current owner to pull the back seat out before I get there since I'd like to drive the car for 4-5 years. I can weld but my wife wouldn't be a happy camper if I'm having to tear this thing apart and burn in patch panels. This is kind of disappointing, I really wanted a wagon but this is making me lean towards a sedan.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:27 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy Dice View Post
Thanks for the replies. I might ask the current owner to pull the back seat out before I get there since I'd like to drive the car for 4-5 years. I can weld but my wife wouldn't be a happy camper if I'm having to tear this thing apart and burn in patch panels. This is kind of disappointing, I really wanted a wagon but this is making me lean towards a sedan.
Pulling the seat is the easy part, pulling all the trim up to the ceiling is the tedious part. Unfortunately this problem isn't well known enough to be impacting prices, so the seller can probably find someone else who isn't aware of the issue. Buy it, fix it, take pictures so you can prove it when you go to sell it, be happy. It's probably a days work first time from start to finish and is a pretty fun project.
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:01 PM   #71
SSAF
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Looks like I made it, what do I win?

http://i.imgur.com/QfktQnZ.jpg?1

I am hoping to find a donor car with clean strut towers, but after looking at this that seems quite challenging. It is going to be quite fun fabricating something to fix this, and a lot of masochistic Camry driving.

Also: If you are using POR-15, I recommend trying to remove ALL of the rust if possible and using a good epoxy primer instead. Rust never sleeps, and POR-15 is great at hiding this.
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:47 AM   #72
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Well... it happened. Found rust last night while I was under the car. Pulled back the interior and saw some bubbles. Will be pulling the interior this weekend to figure out what I am dealing with.

I had the interior out less than two years ago and there wasn't even a bubble forming. I think this last winter where it was both warm and the new brine mixture they stated to use really accelerated any issues.

It sucks and to put icing on the cake, my father's welder was stolen a few weeks ago and he has no plans on replacing it this year so that means I am going to be purchasing my own.

Any recommendations for cheap 110v units?
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:48 PM   #73
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Quote:
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Any recommendations for cheap 110v units?
This task doesn't require a lot of power as the metal is thin and you'll burn through if you're not careful. I went with a thick patch material to make the welding easier though it did make the fabricating more challenging given the primative tools I was using. You could probably get by with one of the cheapo Harbor Freight MIG units, grab a 25% off coupon for the holiday sale. I used a 120v Lincoln Welder similar to the one HD sells (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...14-1/100670934), and give it thumbs up for most tasks up to 3/16"
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:09 PM   #74
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Everything I am seeing on HF website for 110 is either flux core or arc. All the shielding gas welders I see them offering are 220. Could I get away with a flux core for this job? I don't mind dealing with slag and it doesn't have to be pretty considering where it is, I just don't know if it is the right tool for the job.
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:43 PM   #75
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Their labeling is confusing, but many of the flux welders I see on their site also do MIG, , like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-68885.html

Flux will work for this job, saves you buying a bottle and gas as well.
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