OK, a little more digging and I found a video with the exact problem, but still don't know how that clamp managed to get between my exhaust pipe and heat shield:

Got my compressor, condenser, seal kit, and expansion valve in now. I just need to wait until I have the time and patience to pick up a loaner vacuum pump from autozone. There's also a chance I might find metal flakes in the compressor oil and in that case I'd need to go back to autozone to pick up AC flush and a flush tool... Hopefully I don't need to do that because it looks like it'd be a very difficult/messy job. Either you disassemble your entire dash to get better access, or deal with a bunch of the solvent getting everywhere since the hoses that the expansion valve connect to are recessed, and as a result I imagine it's difficult to get a hose in to direct the solvent into a waste container.

If it's just the compressor, expansion valve, and condenser, I couldn't see this job taking more than an hour or two. There's nothing too hard about it that I know of... undo several bolts, remove old parts, put in new parts, replace bolts. Vacuum for half an hour or so, refill.

Got my compressor, condenser, seal kit, and expansion valve now. I just need to wait until I have the time and patience to pick up a loaner vacuum pump from autozone. There's also a chance I might find metal flakes in the compressor oil and in that case I'd need to go back to autozone to pick up AC flush and a flush tool... Hopefully I don't need to do that because it looks like it'd be a very difficult/messy job. Either you disassemble your entire dash to get better access, or deal with a bunch of the solvent getting everywhere since the hoses that the expansion valve connect to are recessed, and as a result I imagine it's difficult to get a hose in to direct the solvent into a waste container.

If it's just the compressor, expansion valve, and condenser, I couldn't see this job taking more than an hour or two. There's nothing too hard about it that I know of... undo several bolts, remove old parts, put in new parts, replace bolts. Vacuum for half an hour or so, refill.

Quick follow up question I didn't want to get buried in my previous post. Does anyone happen to know the compressor oil capacity of our cars? The service manual I have doesn't specify anything about the oil. The new compressor came with 5.7oz which I assume is a bit too much, even if I flush everything out of the remaining parts. Although I'm not sure how risky running about 1.5oz over the common capacity of modern car AC is. Maybe not really much of a risk.

Stainless hose clamp fixed the heat shield rattling, now I can hear another clanging, which is the rear exhaust pipe - the hanger rusted and broke off, and the pipe is occasionally hitting against it. I'll try to have it welded back on. Also, there's a big leak in the connection between that pipe and the muffler. The bolts look badly corroded, so I'm hoping it's just a matter of replacing them, the gasket, and filing the mating surfaces flat. Or is there a ghetto way to fix this reliably? I have silicone tape that I bought for a water hose repair, would it withstand exhaust gases? Otherwise I also have a tube of exhaust cement, but don't really know how to use it (do I just spread it around the joint, or does it work in conjunction with some type of patch/wrap?).

Okay, I have gotten my mostly new AC system back up and running. I was really concerned at first, after evacuating and recharging, initially the low and high sides both hit 80psi and did not move in the slightest, and no more refrigerant would flow, even with throttle application (clutch was engaged, yes). I waited around 10 minutes like that and nothing got better. I turned off my car and gave up in defeat.

A short while later I went back, and tried again because why not. Suddenly it was all working great. Super cold air from the AC vents even at idle, which I don't think I even got when the car was new. I actually came up short a few ounces on R134a, but the pressures are only a tiny bit below the minimums listed in the service manual so I'm just going to live with it during this heat and humidity wave and go pick up R134a tomorrow maybe when I return the loaner vacuum pump to Autozone.

All these years later, here's a question for you all...

When you fill your 5.3 quarts of oil, how far up on your dipstick does that take you?

I switched over to some high mileage oil at 189K and after adding my standard 5.3 quarts, I went slightly above the high oil indicator on the dipstick for the first time. Trying to determine if it's just the thicker high mileage oil (still ow-20), some sludge, or something else I haven't thought of yet.

Any thoughts?

I didn't expect to keep my 2012 Impreza Sport Limited this long (106k miles), so I wanted to freshen it up a bit. I was wondering the feasibility of replacing my front, driver's side seat cover? The ivory leather is impossible to clean now, and the leather has cracks on the bottom seat cushion. I will make sure to put seat covers on my next car! From what I can tell on the Subaru parts site, the cover costs a little over $500. (If I can even install it ) Or should I just try to find a '12-14 in a junk yard and get a whole seat?

Buy a new seat!

Super easy plug and play. I'm on my 3rd set of seats at 189k. I have the cloth manual adjustment heated - They run around $80. My last seat, I got a pair from a 10k totaled crosstrek (because the stitching is different) for $220. Having taken a cloth cover off, I could not imagine ever getting it back on correctly (snug, etc.)

car-part.com and go from there.

I dump in a new 5 quart bottle and that almost always puts me at mid-dipstick. Ez

Only 106k?? I just clicked passed 205k on my 2012. Its still going strong too. I replaced my drivers seat foam about a year ago. It was a pain in the ass. lol. The covers were wicked expensive so I kept the orginals and just added some patches in the inside where it was wearing thin. Now im just gonna order some good seat covers to keep all as good as possible.

Since youve got leather, it might just be easier to see if you can find a used one. Seats are easy as hell to remove. Its just 4 bolts.

Good work. Did you go with a piston or vane compressor?

I went with the vane one since it was a little cheaper, and at the time I replaced it I was trying to save as much money as I could

Hey I知 late to this party. Idk if anyone on here still has these cars lol. I知 doing suspension stuff to my car. Currently just put kyb struts and eibach lowering springs, and RSB, The eibach FSB did not fit so I sent it back. And they are sending a whiteline one.
That I知 still unsure if it will fit.
I know Perrin makes a top tower strut bar that fit. but has anyone used the whiteline top tower strut bar?
If I知 in the wrong thread I知 sorry. Thanks for the help

I had the same exhaust issue recently. Down pipe and muffler connection leak. After the first flange bolt completely snapped off as I grabbed it with channel locks and broke off the edge of the flange, I had to buy two universal flanges at advance auto parts and a new gasket there as well. (At least by me, every car parts store only carries one so it took me 2 days to get both of them ) Dropped the muffler and used an angle grinder to completely disconnect the muffler and then clean up the connection edges on both sides. The old gasket had pretty much become a part of that pipe. Was able to get it back together and just passed inspection two weeks ago. $18 total.

Not sure if it has happened to anyone else here, but, the passenger side visor decided to come off in my hand when I tried to flip it down. Took the base off the headliner and discovered the plastic holding the arm in place is cracked. It's like a socket(?) type of assembly - really simple. Not meant to be taken apart once it's snapped in. Guess the plastic is starting to go. "Fixed" it using a zip tie and pulling it as tight as it could go, trimming off the excess, and re-inserted the visor arm.

I posted a thread in the brakes/etc section but didn't get any replies so I thought I might ask here too. So right now I have some cheap auto parts store brand ceramic brake pads on my car right now, but I don't like the very weak initial bite when braking. If I change them to something still ceramic but more performance-oriented like a powerstop pad or something, will that make much of a difference? Or will I have to switch to semi metallic pads to get that good initial bite? I'm not looking for a SUPER strong initial bite, just a significant improvement over these cheap pads.

I use power stop and it's definitely not a sudden grip like semi metallic, but I love them.

I'm a liar. Forgot that I swapped to centric in my last go rotor/brake job...

CENTRIC posi-quiet

Think they're on rock auto as 10515390

Love them...

I actually like the look of the 2012s.

I installed a set of Raybestos EHT pads over the weekend. With the 100 miles I've put on them so far, I'm happy. The previous setup, Centric PQ Pro up front and whatever the dealer threw on the rear. The Raybestos have a lot more initial bite and getting deeper into the pedal actually results in more brake force.

Does anyone know if the 2012 might be plug and play wired for blind spot side view mirror indicators? Pretty sure I saw them on the 2014 and 15 impeza's. Could it possibly be as simple as buying a new side view mirror?

I heard it was possible to put oem suspension from the 08-14 wrx hatchback on the impreza hatchback. Is this true?

Different systems!
My 2014 Sport Limited didn't have them but the some Outbacks of the time did. 2015 they added a few things so some crosstreks had it.

It is but kinda. What are you thinking about?
Coilovers fit.
Lowering springs fit but with "saggy butt" shims/spacers.
Rear adjustable control arm fits.