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Old 01-05-2019, 08:03 PM   #51
Dash_Martino
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Heater core flush performed. It seemed a little bit overkill as only clean coolant came out, no debris or junk. But I guess that's good news!



Also re-attached my overflow tank. I broke off the tabs when I had originally removed it, but with enough zip ties, well, we don't need no stinkin' tabs.


Skipped painting the supertones as the screws holding them together are somewhat rusty, making it difficult to take apart.

Next up:
-Lower the front end of the car
-Fill up the remaining .3 qts of transmission fluid
-Re-install intercooler

Getting closer to fire up time.
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Last edited by Dash_Martino; 01-05-2019 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:26 PM   #52
Shik
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2006 GT Ltd 5spd sdn
'15 WRX 6spd CWP, '02 WRX

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Great thread!

I enjoy seeing all the new oem parts, especially when replacing rusty nuts and bolts. F****** PennDOT and their salt .
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:36 PM   #53
Dash_Martino
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04 STi
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Intercooler is back in!



with blingin' new SPT Heat Shield



and Mishimoto Elbow and TB Coupler



Had to trim the elbow as other people have done, I guess Mishimoto only made a WRX one and not an STI one.

The car's front wheels are back on the ground. Theoretically all I have to do now is fill it up with coolant, gas, and a charged battery and it should run. Before I turn it on though I want to:

- Drain rear diff fluid
- Repair rear diff gasket
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:30 PM   #54
Dash_Martino
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Managed to get my rear differential out today:



Studs were so rusted that the whole stud came out instead of just the nut:


Seems like I got a decent leak too!


No worries. New gaskets and seals:


Weather will be pretty cold the next couple days or weeks, so Ill be happy to do fix this up inside.
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:14 PM   #55
Dash_Martino
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Time to clean up my crusty differential. Blasted it with a flap sander, then taped it off for painting.


End result:



Is anyone gonna care my differential looks nice? No, but at least ill be able to spot leaks quickly.

Also cleaned up the cover plate and got a new drain and fill plug. Don't be an idiot and break your fill plug like I did, they cost around $80 at least.
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Old 03-03-2019, 09:15 AM   #56
Dash_Martino
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New axle seals pressed in:


New cover gasket and doo-dads installed:


Cleaned and painted the rusty brace that holds up the diff:


And got some new goodies to press into the brace and the subframe:


And one more thing to guard against blow by after start up:
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:12 PM   #57
Dash_Martino
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Nice weather means more garage time! Perrin subframe bushings installed:



Perrin Subframe Lockdown Bolts installed:


These definitely took a lot of turns with wrench before they went in all the way, but I can definitely see why they'll provide some rear end stability. Also used a tap cleaner before putting them in, bolt holes were rusty:


Also picked up an intercooler bolt stud kit so when I take the bypass valve off I won't drop the gasket as much.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:15 PM   #58
Dash_Martino
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IAG AOS Installed:


Used a heat shield sleeve for one of the breather tubes that sits a little to close to the turbo heat shield for my taste:


So if any of you ever had a hard time putting the intercooler back on, I think that this AOS kit makes it about 10x worse fitting that turbo to intercooler elbow on!



Spent the afternoon cursing a lot.

Next up on the list: re-install rear differential and fill it up with fluid.
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:51 PM   #59
Dash_Martino
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Differential installed and filled with gear oil using turkey baster method. Axles installed after much anguish and grunting.


Engine bay all prepped:


Crank position sensor disconnected for oil priming:


Alas, I need some lousy exhaust gaskets before firing the car up:


I had to take off the axle back to get the axles on, and the old gasket disintegrated. Other than this gasket, I believe all I need is a fully charged battery! Stay tuned for start up day within several weeks.
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:20 PM   #60
Dash_Martino
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Special thanks to Mark at TurboXS for getting me the exhaust gaskets needed to button stuff up!


Brand spanking new Duralast Gold with a 5 year warranty:


Ready to prime...
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:00 PM   #61
Dash_Martino
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GoPro assisted video of priming the motor!

And the moment I've been waiting 2.5 years for:

A little bit of smoke in the video is from oil that made its way down to the headers when I dribbled some out of the filler neck. Otherwise, start up seemed to go well, no coolant smell or oil leaks visible underneath the motor or on top. After letting the car run 15 minutes, I shut it off and began draining the oil to remove shavings from the start up, as per what most people recommend. Tomorrow I will re-fill and hopefully go for a short drive to make sure it's road worthy. Afterwards I'll need to get it inspected.

Thank you to everyone who contributes in any way to this forum. I could never have figured out every little detail without everyone's contributions!

"She may not look like much like much but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself."
May the Fourth Be with You!
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:13 PM   #62
Dash_Martino
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So the car has been turning on but I've had to work through a few minor bugs. First up, I added TGV deletes when the motor was rebuilt, so I had to get rid of the accompanying CELs. I didn't want to break the motor in with a CEL putting the car in limp mode.



Thankfully, there's plenty of how-tos on the web on how to do it, including this gentleman's complete video:


Got ahold of a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 Cable and downloaded RomRaider, ECU Flash, and all the definitions.



TGV codes disabled:



Took the car for a great 20 mile ride up and down hills to work on seating the rings. Next up, it seems like there's a minor valve cover gasket leak that I have to double check. Other than that, the car runs great, no more smoke. Once I get the car state-inspected, Ill be able to complete the 1000 mi break in.
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:34 PM   #63
Dash_Martino
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A couple updates! The local garage went to do my inspection, noticed I had a bad rear driver's side strut so I got a pair of KYBs for the rear. Nice bump in ride quality.


Also put in the Perrin rear subframe bushing. Definitely got rid of a lot of clunking.


And a new muffler bearing for good measure:


My co-mechanic was helping me out today too.

Last edited by Dash_Martino; 06-16-2019 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:03 PM   #64
Dash_Martino
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So a little update for the car. The "valve cover" leak turned out to be a leak from my AVCS solenoid. Decided to replace both the solenoid and the access cover plate gasket:



Had to slightly lift the fuel rails to get at the access cover plate:


So here's where things got hairy. After replacing the solenoids and the gaskets, the car started up with a terrible idle. Decided to replace the MAF sensor, as has never been replaced.


So I turned the car back on and it worked a little better, but the idle was still off pretty bad. So I decided to test for a vacuum leak. I found some videos on YouTube giving out how-tos on making a home made smoke vacuum leak testers. So for about $25 I made one:


Sure enough, there is a vacuum leak coming out of the injector ports on the TGV delete rails, passenger side. Ordered the little o rings that go over the injector nozzles. I will double check that they insert correctly when I install them, and I'll run the smoke test again just to ensure an air-tight seal.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:46 AM   #65
TS656577
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As a fellow PA'er, i share your pain on the rusty stuff. love the build though! Super detailed which will help anyone who is trying to do this themselves.
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:36 PM   #66
Dash_Martino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS656577 View Post
As a fellow PA'er, i share your pain on the rusty stuff. love the build though! Super detailed which will help anyone who is trying to do this themselves.
Hey thanks man. Yeah the rust hasn't been too over the top bad for a PA car. Nothing structural that would junk the car, just lots of bolts, brackets, and the subframe that I really wanted to buy new.
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Old 07-28-2019, 05:04 PM   #67
Dash_Martino
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So after trying to re-seal the injectors into the TGVs, the car still idled badly. Ran the smoke test again and sure enough those injectors weren't sitting correctly in the housings.
Decided to pull the intake manifold.



So on the driver's side, you can see the injector sits perfectly in the hole:


Unfortunately, I think I bent my passenger's side fuel rail, and it was almost impossible to get the injector to sit correctly:


So as others have pointed out on this forum, don't bend your fuel rails!

New passenger side fuel rail on the way (Part number 17533AA493 in case anyone needs it.)

Also planning on re-painting the intake manifold while it's out, and doing the injector o-rings.
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:34 PM   #68
Dash_Martino
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Prepping the intake manifold:


Recommended paint as per the internets:


Finished project. Baked the manifold in my oven. Pro tip: make sure your intake manifold is totally oil free when you bake it in your oven. Gets you close to setting your house on fire!


New injector O-rings going on!


Tomorrow hopefully I will at least re-assemble the manifold to the TGVs, maybe get it back in the car next weekend.
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:51 AM   #69
91serturbo
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looks fun! im all together waiting on kelford cams. almost a year!
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:49 PM   #70
Dash_Martino
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So I slapped my intake manifold back on, smoke tested everything, and it all checked out. Took the car for a ride, still had a minor oil leak despite new AVCS solenoids and access plate gaskets.


So after doing some more research on the interwebs, I got ahold of the O-ring that sits in where the oil filler neck connects to the valve cover. Sure enough, the old O-ring was pretty flat and hard, so I gladly replaced it. Hoping it fixes my minor little leak!

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Old 08-25-2019, 05:02 PM   #71
Scuby04STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dash_Martino View Post
So I slapped my intake manifold back on, smoke tested everything, and it all checked out. Took the car for a ride, still had a minor oil leak despite new AVCS solenoids and access plate gaskets.


So after doing some more research on the interwebs, I got ahold of the O-ring that sits in where the oil filler neck connects to the valve cover. Sure enough, the old O-ring was pretty flat and hard, so I gladly replaced it. Hoping it fixes my minor little leak!


Lol, thats the only place my motor has leaked sense having it built. Might be tume I finally go ahead and do this as well. Lol
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:42 AM   #72
sneakysander
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clean!
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:13 PM   #73
stikid2005
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Aspen White/Seibon carbon

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Nice progress. Keep it up! It cool to see a few of us restoring these cars around the same time. Allot of inspiration to get out there and finish up daily projects.
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