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Old 01-24-2008, 08:52 AM   #1
blowbyu24
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Default My ongoing problems with the idle/motor please help!!

Well I tell you a short story of the long story, this is the second motor in my car, the first one had low compression and rod bearing #3 failed, well i get the car back with a slight idle problem, it would idle around 1800-2000 rpms and on the highway it felt like the car would engine break real slow like the rpms were keeping it from enginge breaking when i left off the gas going about 70mph in 6th gear and the throttle was delaying the rpms it felt like

Then yesterday I got my pump gas map from Phil and during lunch i went and downloaded it to the ecu, then after work drove to pick up my g/f and after driving for 15 mins the car just started sputttering, i was giving it gas and it was not responding or it was delayed about 2 seconds, and trying to up to speed was so hard b/c the throttle was so jerky, the rpms were not building at a steady pace more or less...then the car was giving out a really strange noise, it would like a if i can spell it dushhh sound, like a sputtering dush sound every so often, it was really scaring me, so i baby it the rest of the way home....anyone have problems like this before

the shop before i picked the car up went through everything they thought of
checking the hydra's wireing harness
check all the grounds
check the throttle assembly, including wires

and iv been in touch with Phil and I think im gonna send the hydra to him, to see if he can figure it out, but we both think its really not the hyrda, i just hope we can find the cause!!!

has anyone ever heard of these symptoms??

i can't even sleep at night, the car has been down since May and i just want a working car back!!
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:42 PM   #2
blowbyu24
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well i talked with phil, and he thinks its the spark plugs....i had a boost leak and it ran rich causing the spark plugs to fail.....so im changing them out tonight

so if it fixed the problem ill let everyone know
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:47 PM   #3
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why not change to a working map that you had before the motor went before, and drive around on that to see how it works.. Obviously don't push the engine on that map, but just to see if it isn't something with the Hydra.
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:38 PM   #4
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^^^yeah i have the map that i was tuned for on the dyno, but bc this is a new motor it can't be a great tune, so im taking it easy until i get tuned on this motor....and hopefully the spark plugs will fix the problem

ill update tonight after i put in the new ones
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:47 PM   #5
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Yes, i would give the map a try just to see if it clears things up. I would have thought that faulty plugs would be most obvious when the car goes into boost though. Were the problems you were having showing up while in vacuum puttering around or something?
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Old 01-25-2008, 01:42 AM   #6
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are you running speed density?

Alot of times if you have a boost/vacuum leak, the speed density car's will idle very high.

this may be your driveabilty problems.
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Old 01-25-2008, 08:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigga View Post
Yes, i would give the map a try just to see if it clears things up. I would have thought that faulty plugs would be most obvious when the car goes into boost though. Were the problems you were having showing up while in vacuum puttering around or something?
yeah after the boost leak my car locked the vacuum and ran really rich so i fixed it and then it ran terrible,so i put new spark plugs in last night and the car seemed to be running a lot better, but when giving it throttle sometimes it lets off a strange sound and jerks the car slightly....its almost like the first sound you hear a tial bov make....its just the ta not the ta ta ta tata that you normally hear, its like the bov thinks that your releasing the throttle but you are not, im just worried b/c i really don't want to drive the car until i know whats wrong!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by modaddict View Post
are you running speed density?

Alot of times if you have a boost/vacuum leak, the speed density car's will idle very high.

this may be your driveabilty problems.

yeah im running SD, i believe all the vac lines are fixed i really when through and checked last night when i changed the plugs, and the car started great and idle pretty good for the first time ever


this is one of the plugs, they all looked the same!! the ends were completely black and reaked of fuel....pig rich!!



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Old 01-25-2008, 01:12 PM   #8
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Not to rain on your domain, but it "might" help if you can post some pictures of your sparkplugs instead of the floor and shelves.

We can see the plugs are dark, but we need to see what type of residue you have, and blurry photo's don't illustrate them very well. Thanks!
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Old 01-25-2008, 01:19 PM   #9
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You need to pressure test your system starting right out of the turbo outlet. pressurize it to 25psi and report back. You may need a bottle of soapy water to spray on intercooler connections and the intake manifold.

post back when you're done
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintbing View Post
Not to rain on your domain, but it "might" help if you can post some pictures of your sparkplugs instead of the floor and shelves.

We can see the plugs are dark, but we need to see what type of residue you have, and blurry photo's don't illustrate them very well. Thanks!
sorry i was trying the damn camera just wouldn't take a clear shot, i thought it would be better than no shot at all...but i understand where your coming from
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modaddict View Post
You need to pressure test your system starting right out of the turbo outlet. pressurize it to 25psi and report back. You may need a bottle of soapy water to spray on intercooler connections and the intake manifold.

post back when you're done
so you think it could be a leak somewhere after the turbo

hmm, iv never done this but i have a compressor, any sugestions??
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:23 PM   #12
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so you think it could be a leak somewhere after the turbo

hmm, iv never done this but i have a compressor, any sugestions??
After you put the plugs in, does it idle around 1k now?

disconnect the outlet to the turbo and I have a homemade pcv ppe fitting/plug that I drilled and tapped to put a quick connect on it. I put this fitting in the silicone connection and tighten the t-bolt clamp around it. This allows me to plug in my air compressor hose and use the regulator to go up to whatever psi I want and then check the system for leaks with soapy water.
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:26 PM   #13
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I take that back. i forgot I bought one with a pipe threaded center section. Now I just screw my quick connect into the center and put it in the silicone connection for my fmic. then I tighten the t-bolt clamp around the piece and pressurize they system.

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Old 01-25-2008, 03:35 PM   #14
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thanks for the pic..im def. gonna try this


it idles around 1500 now...which is much better and more consistant than it was before
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:49 PM   #15
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These damn MAFS ought to be built into the friggin intake manifold, immediately in front of the TB. What the engine actually gets is exactly what it sees - end of problem.

Or is this simply un-doable for some reason I'm just not seeing?
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:56 PM   #16
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These damn MAFS ought to be built into the friggin intake manifold, immediately in front of the TB. What the engine actually gets is exactly what it sees - end of problem.

Or is this simply un-doable for some reason I'm just not seeing?
Oh it's do-able. the key to blow thru is zero turbulence. You know how hard that is to accomplish.

Then, if you had a boost leak with your maf placement, you would just work the turbo harder to make the same boost.

I know, I'm captain obvious, huh?

edit: how about 1 maf per cylinder? get rid of the tgv's and have absolute blow thru. talk about a tuning nightmare!
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:24 PM   #17
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...I know, I'm captain obvious, huh?...
Yeah, well, I'm sure you've been called worse, too.

I guess the point I'm tring to make is if it were built into the intake, sure, you could still have both pre and post-turbo leaks, but neither would affect the health or status of the engine. As it currently stands, if the system integrity is not perfect, at best the engine runs like crap (blow-thru) and at worst, you grenade it (suck-thru). And if you popped off a hose completely, no problemo, it's just a N/A motor until you fix the leak.
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:31 PM   #18
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well i check for leaks, did find anyone, its running terrible again and its misfireing, i am not going to turn the motor on again....looks like its gonna get trailored


who the hell knows
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:49 PM   #19
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take it back to your tuner... Does anyone you know have a hydra you can swap into your car just to see if there is an issue there somewhere? I know it usually is a mechanical fault and not electrical with these things, but you never know
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:16 PM   #20
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thanks, yeah ill let know what i end up doing with the car
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:30 PM   #21
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Phil sent me a base map....its running perfect....thank god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:54 PM   #22
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*pop's the champagne*

It would be interesting to see what it was about the other map that was causing so many problems....
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:14 AM   #23
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^^^^yeah i sent the map back to phil and he is going to look over it

basically it was a tune for a bad motor and the new motor didn't like it and was giving me all sorts of problems
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