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Old 06-27-2013, 02:17 AM   #1
rushdylan
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Member#: 337170
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: hesperia, California
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
silver

Default P0340 impossible fix. help me figure it out?

heres a background on my problem:

2006 ej257 longblock
2003 wrx intake setup/injectors
torque solutions cam sensor bracket
***BRAND NEW CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR***
ground mod
alternator output: 14.2V
ej257 cam gear: same exact 2 pickups as ej20 cam gear

this is me:

my car will not stop running in limp because of a P0340 code. ive tried everything, seriously. ive reset the ecu a million times, ive tried different ECU maps. ive tried new sensors, triple checking timing, checking timing belt tensioner, installing oem crank pulley, dielectric grease on connections, tried simply letting it run as is and figure itself out, checked the connection between sensor plug and ecu. so i made a little video to help demonstrate what im working with. the whistle/scream you're hearing is from the alternator. either a bad bearing or its putting out its absolute maximum output and the microphone on my phone being directly over the alternator doesnt help. i know i called the timing belt tensioner the idler but who cares, ive been at this forever with no good outcome

last idea: avcs is not being used and has yet to be deleted. going to try regular wrx gears and properly delete avcs and see if it gets me anywhere.

you see a waste gate code on the DTC box right? it has nothing to do with this. the wastegate is disabled via ECU while i tune so it throws a meaningless code. if you have a friend who might know, a local shop, another nasioc member, please contact them! im literally out of ideas here and have given up hope of my 450hp 20G build i know not many of you are familiar with my swap but it really doesnt mean anything, it works exactly like a wrx should. i never had this problem before now so it obviously worked in the past for me. help!!!



tags to help people find this page: cosworth relocation cam sensor position torque solution bronze black recall hybrid swap bugeye
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Last edited by rushdylan; 06-29-2013 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:05 AM   #2
rushdylan
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Member#: 337170
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: hesperia, California
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
silver

Default

update: looks like my general understanding of sensors is incorrect. i tried moving the sensor closer to the cam pickup but never farther. looks like moving it 1.5mm farther AWAY from the pickup fixes the problem. i figured it needed to be closer for a better and closer signal but i was wrong. hope this helps whoever else has this issue!

Last edited by rushdylan; 06-29-2013 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:20 AM   #3
GulfCoastMotorworks
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Member#: 358317
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Bonita Springs, FL
Vehicle:
6266 Built Bugeye
GulfCoastMotorWorks.com

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Hybrids are notorious for this.

Either the crank or cam sensor. I usually stat by replacing both, then trying further away...then if that fails going closer by grinding the sensor seat by a mil.

Glad you figured it out fast....most NEVER EVER figure it out. lol
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:09 PM   #4
rushdylan
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: hesperia, California
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
silver

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funny part was, it worked before I did a forged build. then no good all of the sudden. however, the crank sensor did go bad a few months ago and gave me another headache lol. sounded like I had anti lag
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:19 PM   #5
Chazual
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Member#: 338144
Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Pennsylvania
Vehicle:
2005 WRX wagon
black

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I hate to be that guy, but could you send me a link to the cam sensor bracket? I am going to drop a 257 in my wrx wagon and don't want to take the heads off to have them modified to run with my ecu.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:31 PM   #6
Dr. octagon
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Chapter/Region: MAIC
Vehicle:
2005 Subaru
PSM

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I have been battling this for awhile now, my question is when installing the lock washer between the sensor and the bracket does the washer:

1. does the washer get crushed flat for the proper spacing or remain in the open position?

I defiantly know the sensor does NOT need to be closer
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:00 PM   #7
frankwrx
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Location: va
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
red

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i have 03 wrx ej205 rebuilt throwing p0340 code. it misses at idle because no spark to #1 & #4. There are are no misfire codes. Timing is dead on. I replaced cam position sensor and crank position sensor. I tried a different wiring harness. I checked the coils by switching them on the same side for spark. HELP! any ideas?
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:13 PM   #8
talon2.5RS
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Member#: 55033
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Liverpool, NY
Vehicle:
2001 Impreza 2.5 RS
Project 2.5RSRX Underway!

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I'm facing the same issue at the moment. I'm using the Torque Solutions bracket which I noticed has a bit of slop in the mounting holes to the cam cap. I measured the gap with feeler gauges between the sensor and the cam gear on my old EJ205 cylinder head and it was .040 inch between the trigger points and the sensor. This measures out to be .090 inch between the sensor and the face of the cam gear. I set everything to match these specs on the new engine and the code persists. I've checked resistance in the wires and the sensor and they are both in spec. I must be close but not quite on my measurements because it's better but not fully resolved yet. Still missing and running 12.5 AFR at cruise.
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Old 02-01-2015, 12:34 AM   #9
talon2.5RS
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Member#: 55033
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Liverpool, NY
Vehicle:
2001 Impreza 2.5 RS
Project 2.5RSRX Underway!

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An update on my dilemma - I finally had some time to work on the car after the holidays. I moved the sensor back using a M6 flat washer and the car runs much better. The code is still active and the ignition breaks up around 3000 rpm. At least the car is drivable now. I'll make some measurements when I have an opportunity and attempt to fine tune the distance to the trigger points. Hopefully I can get this damn code to go away soon!
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:35 PM   #10
rex7tuner
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Location: oceanside CA
Vehicle:
04 Subaru
Black

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Hey everyone, If you ever have this code thrown at you. A faulty alternator WILL cause this. Even if you take a voltmeter to the Alt and gives 14v + output. (idle, revved up a bit, Full AC on, headlights, every possible load) and still gives 14+ volts it can still cause this code. Not very knowledgeable on the small parts inside an Alternator but something inside causes it. Just for anyone still still with this PITA code.
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Old 07-22-2017, 11:28 AM   #11
Murphy7277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwrx View Post
i have 03 wrx ej205 rebuilt throwing p0340 code. it misses at idle because no spark to #1 & #4. There are are no misfire codes. Timing is dead on. I replaced cam position sensor and crank position sensor. I tried a different wiring harness. I checked the coils by switching them on the same side for spark. HELP! any ideas?
Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having the exact same problem. Thanks
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:12 PM   #12
Treechopper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwrx View Post
i have 03 wrx ej205 rebuilt throwing p0340 code. it misses at idle because no spark to #1 & #4. There are are no misfire codes. Timing is dead on. I replaced cam position sensor and crank position sensor. I tried a different wiring harness. I checked the coils by switching them on the same side for spark. HELP! any ideas?
I am having this problem as well except appear to be getting spark, did you figure out the cause by chance?
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:17 PM   #13
rtanaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treechopper View Post
I am having this problem as well except appear to be getting spark, did you figure out the cause by chance?


Any chance he got back to you, or maybe you figured it out by yourself? Im having this issue after my rebuild and could really use some help pinpointing the problem.
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:08 PM   #14
master_o_trunks
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Replacing alternator fixed the code for me. Car was on 170k on original alternator. With my OBDII Bluetooth, it was showing voltage drops while reaching complete stops and I think that's where the ECU might of send bad signals to certain sensors that need to keep a constant operating voltage.
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