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Old 10-12-2007, 03:14 AM   #26
flatthump
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OBP'

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^Yes, I read that.
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Old 10-16-2007, 05:33 PM   #27
Angry Toaster
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E92 / CBR600RR

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Yay for ppl who don't know anything.
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:16 PM   #28
Spiider
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I'll start by saying that I have an obvious bias in this area because I make these aftermarket controllers...with that said....

It's not a good idea to run with direct power to your dccd coil for any length of time. 12v or 6v won't make any difference except in terms of amperage, it will heat up and burn out the solenoid in a short period of time.

Describing it as a 6-7 volts signal is a "dumbed down" way to explain it to the techs/mechanics so they can check it with a multimeter instead of a scope. The signal is PWM so 6-7 volts is probably close enough to the signal RMS.

I have suggested it in the past to people to run a switch with tons of caveats. It is ok for limited dyno or occasional use for a few minutes if you are stuck or something like that.
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:31 PM   #29
akcel
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gc8 I ride ride 24s
with the top down low.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiider View Post
I'll start by saying that I have an obvious bias in this area because I make these aftermarket controllers...with that said....

It's not a good idea to run with direct power to your dccd coil for any length of time. 12v or 6v won't make any difference except in terms of amperage, it will heat up and burn out the solenoid in a short period of time.

Describing it as a 6-7 volts signal is a "dumbed down" way to explain it to the techs/mechanics so they can check it with a multimeter instead of a scope. The signal is PWM so 6-7 volts is probably close enough to the signal RMS.

I have suggested it in the past to people to run a switch with tons of caveats. It is ok for limited dyno or occasional use for a few minutes if you are stuck or something like that.
I was looking for a post like this, I had decided against the switch after I posted this, just didn't want to risk it. im just goin to get a controller and live with the 'open' diff for now
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:11 PM   #30
flatthump
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Originally Posted by Angry Toaster View Post
Yay for ppl who don't know anything.
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:33 AM   #31
AZScoobie
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netcom.com

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COrrect. The input voltage to the clutch coil is RMS voltage. Its pulsed. Hooking direct current to it will fry it. I have seen this first hand by a guy hooking 12 to the coil. It fried the DCCD diff in a short time and had to be replaced.

Clark
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:17 PM   #32
akcel
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with the top down low.

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thanks clark, its good to hear that you've had first hand experience with this. hopefully when someone searches this idea later on they will run across this thread with the definate "do not do it" answer, and not 'pull up your ebrake to make your dccd work' lol
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Old 10-05-2019, 02:22 PM   #33
Rizzo314
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and going for 10s :evil:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by akcel View Post
thanks clark, its good to hear that you've had first hand experience with this. hopefully when someone searches this idea later on they will run across this thread with the definate "do not do it" answer, and not 'pull up your ebrake to make your dccd work' lol
I am that someone and I am glad I came across this thread.

However, I was tempted to just run full ebrake...
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