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Old 03-28-2019, 10:32 PM   #226
KCRS01
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EDIT: is it needed that the rivet used is for STRUCTURAL use and not just any rivet that can be bought for cheap like home depot?
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Last edited by KCRS01; 03-30-2019 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:50 PM   #227
babbylonmon
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my 2009 WRX started making this click almost a year ago and my dumb ass just ignored it. It finally gave out a couple weeks ago and my dealer is scheduled to fix it (they say they're gonna try to get SOA to cover 100%). My question is; has anyone had any ill effects on their clutch or otherwise from this?
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:11 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trinydex View Post
has anyone tried inserting a telescoping magnet into the hole and drawing the bolt through with the magnet? that seems like it would eliminate the hassle of comforting and aiming a bolt through the hole.
This guy is onto something. This is what I’m trying
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:14 AM   #229
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
I would use the SS......or......quite a few more aluminum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCRS01 View Post
Thanks. I think I'll go with Stainless Steel
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCRS01 View Post
EDIT: is it needed that the rivet used is for STRUCTURAL use and not just any rivet that can be bought for cheap like home depot?
I suggested the SS due to strength long term.
What you find at Home Depot or similar is fine.
There are better rivets out there (like Cherry Rivets used in aircraft) but the price is high and you need a more expensive install tool.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:21 AM   #230
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Can anyone say whether 1/8" diameter rivets will work? 1/8" steel rivets are readily available, 3/16" I'd need to order. I just want to make sure that extra 1/16 is worth it
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:02 PM   #231
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UPDATE: I just finished the weld fix using the rivet method and my clutch pedal WAS silent...last night. I went to go drive today and it's squeaking louder than ever. I'm going to take it back apart tonight and see how the rivets look after a bunch of clutch pushes. If they look fine I guess I'll order 3/16" rivets and grind out all of the 1/8 ones. Ugh, I'm so pissed right now.

I used 1/8" steel rivets since they were on the shelf at Home Depot and the ***8216;straight angle' rivet gun from harbor freight. Bought a new metal drill bit and didn't find it difficult at all to drill through, maybe 10 seconds per spot? Total cost was $26 for everything and it only took 45 minutes start to finish with everything back on the car.

Last edited by pearljam11; 04-09-2019 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 04-10-2019, 09:26 PM   #232
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Default The 08-14 Spot Welds Thread (How to Check Your Welds)

Update - so perhaps my squeak wasn’t the dreaded spot weld creak although I had indents at 4/6 welds. I got under the dash and was pushing the clutch while watch the upper 2 rivets at the bracket and it wasn’t flexing.

I was still getting a squeak/groan but it was from around the clutch master cylinder area. So today I grabbed white lithium grease and sprayed into the master cylinder where the fork goes through the firewall. That didn’t really seem to make much of a change so I also bled the clutch and that seemed to do the trick or maybe it was a combination of both. Either way I’m shifting quietly for now, fingers crossed.
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Old 04-12-2019, 03:02 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearljam11 View Post
Update - so perhaps my squeak wasn’t the dreaded spot weld creak although I had indents at 4/6 welds. I got under the dash and was pushing the clutch while watch the upper 2 rivets at the bracket and it wasn’t flexing.

I was still getting a squeak/groan but it was from around the clutch master cylinder area. So today I grabbed white lithium grease and sprayed into the master cylinder where the fork goes through the firewall. That didn’t really seem to make much of a change so I also bled the clutch and that seemed to do the trick or maybe it was a combination of both. Either way I’m shifting quietly for now, fingers crossed.
Thanks for the update. tackling mine this weekend but using 3/16" structural rivets.

perhaps try checking your pedal assembly as i heard it can have hairline crack from there as well when the firewall weakens

Cheers
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:21 AM   #234
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I poked around under there and didn't see any hairline cracks. It seems like the sound is coming right from the clutch master cylinder. I took a video with my phone and you can see the master cylinder moving slightly as I push the clutch in.

I am considering one of the aftermarket clutch master cylinder braces right now. Not sure if I want to risk $135 though on something that might not fix the issue.
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Old 04-18-2019, 08:07 AM   #235
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UPDATE - FIXED

I originally thought it was the classic failing spot welds at the firewall and riveted all 6 welds but that didn't do the trick. My noise is more of a squeak/squeal and not similar to the noises in the failing spot welds videos. I also checked the pedal assembly and didn't find any broken parts. I have also bled the clutch and lubricated what I think was inside of the boot of the master cylinder where the fork passes through the firewall with white lithium grease. Still no change.

So after resolving that it couldn't be any of the aforementioned areas I started to look at the slave cylinder since it moves as well. I applied white lithium grease under the little boot on the slave cylinder but that made no improvement either.

So I looked at the next moving part that I hadn't greased yet, the clutch fork that dips into the bell housing. After applying a boatload of grease down into the hole (covered by a big rubber boot cover) the noise went away after a few minutes of driving. I checked my car again this morning and it's dead silent. Over the last few times I had thought I had fixed it, it would be back in the morning when the car is cold again. I guess once I had been driving a while and the car was sitting the squeaky area would get warmed up enough to make less noise.

Here's a video of the noise before I fixed it, after riveting, clutch bleed, master cylinder lube, etc.
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:28 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearljam11 View Post
UPDATE - FIXED

I originally thought it was the classic failing spot welds at the firewall and riveted all 6 welds but that didn't do the trick. My noise is more of a squeak/squeal and not similar to the noises in the failing spot welds videos. I also checked the pedal assembly and didn't find any broken parts. I have also bled the clutch and lubricated what I think was inside of the boot of the master cylinder where the fork passes through the firewall with white lithium grease. Still no change.

So after resolving that it couldn't be any of the aforementioned areas I started to look at the slave cylinder since it moves as well. I applied white lithium grease under the little boot on the slave cylinder but that made no improvement either.

So I looked at the next moving part that I hadn't greased yet, the clutch fork that dips into the bell housing. After applying a boatload of grease down into the hole (covered by a big rubber boot cover) the noise went away after a few minutes of driving. I checked my car again this morning and it's dead silent. Over the last few times I had thought I had fixed it, it would be back in the morning when the car is cold again. I guess once I had been driving a while and the car was sitting the squeaky area would get warmed up enough to make less noise.

Here's a video of the noise before I fixed it, after riveting, clutch bleed, master cylinder lube, etc.
https://youtu.be/a1_XtNi8j2E
That's good to know since I just noticed a faint squeaking sound coming from the engine bay when I press the clutch, and I've already done the rivets and the ITS bracket. What grease did you end up using in the bell housing? White lithium grease?

Last edited by bmann; 05-28-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 05-28-2019, 07:38 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmann View Post
That's good to know since I just noticed a faint squeaking sound coming from the engine bay when I press the clutch, and I've already done the rivets and the ITS bracket. What grease did you end up using in the bell housing? White lithium grease?
Actually the squeaking noise went away after a day of normal driving so never mind.
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Old 05-29-2019, 07:07 AM   #238
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Originally Posted by ALTR EVO View Post
I just purchased the ITS bracket as a preemptive measure. It looks like their site isn’t active any more. Does anybody know where else I can find installation instructions?
Thanks.
Reflected image has the instructions posted if anyone is still looking but it looks like these brackets are out of stock. Anyone have one they haven't installed and want to sell?
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:55 AM   #239
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So I've fallen victim to the clutch squeak at its worst, as I type this my 09 WRX is sitting in my driveway unable to shift into first or reverse.

I replaced the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. Replacing the master cylinder was overkill and most likely unneeded, but the slave cylinder was shot. However after replacing both and bleeding the crap out of the system, the car is still unable to move. Clutch pedal still sticks to the floor and will only spring back if I pull it by hand or give it a nudge with my foot so now I'm looking at drilling out the tack welds and installing bolts to secure the clutch pedal bracket.

I posted a link to the photo below to show what I found when I removed the windshield wiper cowling, it looks like the previous owner tried to tackle this issue (and failed) and when they were done doing whatever the hell they were doing, they sprayed the entire area with black sealant so I can't see exactly where the tack welds are.

My question is, do you have to drill exactly where the tack welds are in order for this repair to work, or can I drill approximately where I think the tack welds are and still be okay? I couldn't find a diagram showing exactly how the clutch pedal bracket was installed or what it even looks like to see how accurate I need to be when drilling. Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Old 06-25-2019, 11:57 AM   #240
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...Looks like the link to my image didn't post, however just use your imagination and know that the tack welds aren't visible
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:29 PM   #241
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So update for those that have this issue after me. I was able to cut and scrape the sealant off to reveal the welds. I looks like a previous owner did a repair and welded the bracket in again and half the welds failed.

I was able to drill out the top two so far and I used a telescoping magnet to feed the bolts through the dash, an idea that was posted way earlier in this thread for the win!
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Old 07-17-2019, 02:45 PM   #242
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Wish me luck dudes. Starting this process after work today.
+ Bought 2 handed rivet gun from Harbor Fright.
+ Mcmaster Carr structural pop rivets came in yesterday. Only 10 so I can mess up 4 times.
+ New pedal assembly was picked up at lunch from local Subie stealership.
+ ITS transmissions bracket should be here soon. HURRY UP UPS!

- It's 90° F and 80% humidity
- 2 or 3 of the welds are not a straight shot with the longer rivet gun, not even sure the hydraulic one would have the clearance. I'm wondering if I can drill new holes next to the spot welds??? Anybody know?

Probably won't take any progress pics, too busy cussing and sweating.
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Old 10-20-2019, 05:48 PM   #243
Heatstreak96
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Just curious, but has anyone tried the Rallitek version of the clutch master brace?
It's a bit cheaper than the Circuit Motorsports one.

https://www.rallitek.com/braces/1061...2008-2011.html

I plan on doing both braces for now. I just picked up a 2012 WRX about a month ago and the clutch pedal is quiet. Haven't had time to look at the welds but I figured the braces should go on as insurance anyways. If I'm lucky it's already been taken care of lol
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Old 11-02-2019, 06:20 AM   #244
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So I too ignored this noise until finally my car stopped shifting all together. Clutch hose was leaking and during the bleed process my master started moving 5-6” with every movement of the pedal. So my question is: will the bracket kit fix the problem? Or will I need a pedal assembly Replaced and firewall repaired?
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Old 11-03-2019, 08:35 PM   #245
Saden
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Default My Spot Weld Experience 2009 WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heatstreak96 View Post
Just curious, but has anyone tried the Rallitek version of the clutch master brace?
It's a bit cheaper than the Circuit Motorsports one.
I don't like that their brace is made from thin 1/4" mild steel with incomplete welds. Put it in a vice and hit with a hammer you will break a piece off or bend it. That will not happen with a solid chunk of aluminum. My calibrated eyeball says the thinnest part of the Circuit Motorsports brace is 3/8" where it bolts to the clutch master, with the rest of it being 1/2" or more at least. However I do like how they include a spacer plate to take up the gap between the pitch stop mounting bolt and it's bracket welded to the firewall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mi_cutskinny View Post
my question is: will the bracket kit fix the problem? Or will I need a pedal assembly Replaced and firewall repaired?
Don't know how bad it is until you take it apart and look. The ITS bracket and a clutch master brace prevent future failures not fix what's already broken. Take your wiper transmission out and have someone push the clutch while you watch the spot welds, then get under the dash with a light and look at your pedal assembly for any cracks.

I replaced my failed spot welds with stainless steel M6x1.0 bolts, washers, and nylon locking nuts. Used structural adhesive to help secure the pedal bracket to firewall, take up any gaps between the two pieces and prevent any movement on the hardware. New pedal box, which came painted from my preferred Subaru dealer, got the ITS Pedal Support Bracket and Circuit Motorsports Clutch Master Brace treatment too.
Hideous popcorn tack welds under the red paint are from my local Subaru dealer attempting a "repair" several years ago (under warranty)


Crack in the pedal box front taking all the strain

My Subie dealer had the pedal box in stock, it was already painted, came with both clutch switches but not the brake switch. It's easy to swap and adjust so no problem.

Most people don't do anything with the seventh spot weld (just to the right of the top two) and I didn't either. Didn't feel like there was enough material left of the bracket to use a bolt and secure it.



ITS bracket installed, I painted the edges red to stand out in pictures

Circuit Motorsports Clutch Master Brace installed. You can see the gap on the left near pitch stop mounting that could be filled in to help spread some load.


Very happy with the results, she also got a new clutch/flywheel which feels great, so I finally get to enjoy driving my car again after a very long time babying it around with these issues.

Last edited by Saden; 02-25-2024 at 10:31 PM. Reason: New image links from NASIOC because Imgur got lame. And another fix for the images because Nasioc hosting got lame
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Old 12-01-2019, 05:29 PM   #246
gregnauman
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Default The 08-14 Spot Welds Thread (How to Check Your Welds)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saden View Post
I don't like that their brace is made from thin 1/4" mild steel with incomplete welds. Put it in a vice and hit with a hammer you will break a piece off or bend it. That will not happen with a solid chunk of aluminum. My calibrated eyeball says the thinnest part of the Circuit Motorsports brace is 3/8" where it bolts to the clutch master, with the rest of it being 1/2" or more at least. However I do like how they include a spacer plate to take up the gap between the pitch stop mounting bolt and it's bracket welded to the firewall.

Don't know how bad it is until you take it apart and look. The ITS bracket and a clutch master brace prevent future failures not fix what's already broken. Take your wiper transmission out and have someone push the clutch while you watch the spot welds, then get under the dash with a light and look at your pedal assembly for any cracks.

I replaced my failed spot welds with stainless steel M6x1.0 bolts, washers, and nylon locking nuts. Used structural adhesive to help secure the pedal bracket to firewall, take up any gaps between the two pieces and prevent any movement on the hardware. New pedal box, which came painted from my preferred Subaru dealer, got the ITS Pedal Support Bracket and Circuit Motorsports Clutch Master Brace treatment too.
https://youtu.be/jWrq2RrSEHY
Hideous popcorn tack welds under the red paint are from my local Subaru dealer attempting a "repair" several years ago (under warranty)

Crack in the pedal box front taking all the strain


Most people don't do anything with the seventh spot weld (just to the right of these top two) and I didn't either. Didn't feel like there was enough material left of the bracket to use a bolt and secure it.


My Subie dealer had the pedal box in stock, it was already painted, came with both clutch switches but not the brake switch. It's easy to swap and adjust so no problem.

ITS bracket installed, I painted the edges red to stand out in pictures

Circuit Motorsports Clutch Master Brace installed. You can see the gap on the left near pitch stop mounting that could be filled in to help spread some load.


Very happy with the results, she also got a new clutch/flywheel which feels great, so I finally get to enjoy driving my car again after a very long time babying it around with these issues.


What’s your opinion on the circuit Motorsports brace vs. the Perrin or Grimmspeed?
I have the ITS just haven’t installed it yet
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Old 12-04-2019, 06:34 PM   #247
Saden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregnauman View Post
What’s your opinion on the circuit Motorsports brace vs. the Perrin or Grimmspeed?
I have the ITS just haven’t installed it yet
Neither Perrin or Grimmspeed offer a Clutch Master Cylinder Brace for the 08-14 model years. They do offer a Brake Master Cylinder Brace which is not what we are talking about here.
That being said I do have the Grimmspeed Brake Master Brace and chose it over the Perrin model because it has significantly more material in it's construction and better mounting points in my opinion.
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Old 12-04-2019, 08:41 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saden View Post
Neither Perrin or Grimmspeed offer a Clutch Master Cylinder Brace for the 08-14 model years. They do offer a Brake Master Cylinder Brace which is not what we are talking about here.

That being said I do have the Grimmspeed Brake Master Brace and chose it over the Perrin model because it has significantly more material in it's construction and better mounting points in my opinion.


I’m an idiot wasn’t even paying attention that it was clutch brace. But that makes sense.

Glad to hear input on the brake brace though as that is what I was thinking.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:31 PM   #249
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Old 01-14-2020, 01:13 AM   #250
after5hock
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Default No Dash Removal Process

Hey guys,

I made a video of the process and parts I came up with. I have the grimspeed brake master cylinder brace, circuit clutch master brace, ITS mount, and newly updated version of the clutch pedal assembly, and the firewall still ripped on me.

I did not remove any part of the dash, done 4 in 1.5 hours with video capture.

Have a look if you are bored and would like to save the hassle of removing the dash or using rivets, both of which personally scare me:

EDIT: here is my website with the kits ready to ship: https://www.humblerumble.ca/

Thanks for reading!
Peter

Last edited by after5hock; 01-31-2020 at 11:29 PM. Reason: update with website
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