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Old 10-04-2019, 01:03 PM   #1
PyroguyFTW
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Default I have no idea how to drive with a lightweight flywheel.

I just got my car back yesterday from the shop with an ACT HDSS on it, along with an ACT streetlite flywheel. I feel like I have no idea how to drive a stick anymore. I have stalled out more than when I was learning to drive stick, and I can't do a hill start without taking about 3 seconds to get moving. I don't know if this is the flywheel, the new clutch biting hard, or a combination of both, but it's infuriating me. I have been driving manuals since I was 13 and I can't seem to get a grip on this thing. Has anyone got any pointers? My next move is to put about 80 miles on it every night for the next week to help break it in while learning to start out smoothly.
Edit: I almost forgot, the clutch feels like it's engaging right off the floor, as well. Before replacement, it was engaging maybe 2" from the floor.
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Old 10-04-2019, 01:45 PM   #2
viper_crazy
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I have an Exedy LWFW and yes, it is quite the adjustment. I drove it around for a few miles before I made the changes I'm about to suggest.

If you have a Cobb Accessport, go into the tune Menu, Adjustments, and crank up your AC Off and AC On. My AC Off is set 100 rpm higher and my AC On is 125 rpm higher. It made a huge difference with drivability.
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Old 10-04-2019, 01:46 PM   #3
Muffin15
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I installed an ACT Streetlite in my WRX when I put it together earlier this year. It did take a couple days to get used to but wasn’t too drastic of a change. But I had also been driving an automatic on a regular basis for 5 years prior, so wasn’t used to any particular clutch feel anymore. My roommate who’s had a manual that whole time had a REAL hard time driving it when I let him. Just take it slow, be conscious of if you’re giving it enough gas or not, and you should be fine Only way to get used to it will be time, and sounds like you’ve got that planned already

Last edited by Muffin15; 10-04-2019 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:10 PM   #4
PyroguyFTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
I have an Exedy LWFW and yes, it is quite the adjustment. I drove it around for a few miles before I made the changes I'm about to suggest.

If you have a Cobb Accessport, go into the tune Menu, Adjustments, and crank up your AC Off and AC On. My AC Off is set 100 rpm higher and my AC On is 125 rpm higher. It made a huge difference with drivability.
I've actually cranked it up by 300 each way. It's helped a tiny bit, but I would like to pull it back down as I get more used to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muffin15 View Post
I installed an ACT Streetlite in my WRX when I put it together earlier this year. It did take a couple days to get used to but wasn’t too drastic of a change. But I had also been driving an automatic on a regular basis for 5 years prior. My roommate who’s had a manual that whole time had a REAL hard time driving it when I let him. Just take it slow, be conscious of if you’re giving it enough gas or not, and you should be fine Only way to get used to it will be time, and sounds like you’ve got that planned already
I hope I can get the hang of it. It is ridiculously hilly where I live, so(pardon the pun) I'm fighting an uphill battle as is. I'm just going to be taking some extra trips to get some time behind the wheel and hope for the best.
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:07 PM   #5
PyroguyFTW
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Well, I've driven a bit more with it, and I can start out better. Problem is, I've broken my clutch in and it jerks very hard when shifting quickly, like a WOT run or just short shifting on a backroad. Is this normal, or should I be beefing up my transmission for this?
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:34 PM   #6
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PyroguyFTW View Post
I've actually cranked it up by 300 each way. It's helped a tiny bit, but I would like to pull it back down as I get more used to it.
Raising the idle helps catch the idle parameters sooner. I noticed, with stock idle, when returning to idle it would drop so far the idle parameters wouldn't be enough to keep from stalling. Raising it help keep it from stalling out, at least on my setup.
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Old 10-13-2019, 10:40 PM   #7
Zacksti
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Yea I agree they’re Super annoying, I’ve never owned anything not manual and I just recently went from a 2013 brz to an 06 Sti and it has a lightweight and I stall it pretty often. It bites extremely hard so much so that if you try and feather or ease into it The car makes a very interesting noise as it’s grabbing
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Old 10-14-2019, 09:51 PM   #8
Saden
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As someone who's just had to put in his third clutch in 5 years, the best piece of advice I can give is...USE AN OEM FLYWHEEL PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.

Capslock kidding aside, I can't be more serious about that statement. When the OEM gave out I went with a recommendation from my local Subaru tuning shop and installed a Stage 2 kit with 12 pound flywheel from Competition Clutch. Hated it with every fiber of my being since the first drive home, constant chatter and stalling on takeoff, a manageable stiff pedal that worked more like a light switch - it was on or off. Not having a disposable income to keep experimenting I lived with it until a somewhat fortunate incident, my center differential exploded. Car was still under warranty so while they had the trans out I supplied them a South Bend Clutch kit with 17 pound flywheel. There was an immediately noticeable improvement, but still constant chatter.

Cut to this past weekend where I installed a Clutch Masters FX350 with an OEM flywheel and without exaggeration I fell in love with my car again within 30 seconds of driving.
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:21 PM   #9
viper_crazy
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^This is more personal preference, really. I have a 12lbs flywheel and I think it's decent. No stalling issues, no jerk, and not much chatter, with Exedy Stage 1.
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:36 PM   #10
Blktrax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PyroguyFTW View Post
Edit: I almost forgot, the clutch feels like it's engaging right off the floor, as well. Before replacement, it was engaging maybe 2" from the floor.
Have you or anyone else messed with the adjustment under the dash with the old clutch trying to get more life out of it?

I've seen this before, were someone thinks they can adjust the freeplay and get more life out of a self adjusting clutch, and end up nuking the new clutch, as its not properly set back, when the new clutch is installed.

With you hand, not your foot, press the clutch pedal, you should have about 1/2" of freeplay at the top (no load), if there is more or none, likely the process of the new flywheel final machined thickness, or just the thickness of the clutch has changed the pickup point, or see above issue if someone dorked with it.

I installed the Exedy FF01 Lightweight and stage 1 organic 15802HD set, I made 2 turns on the adjustment to get the free-play correct.

Last edited by Blktrax; 10-14-2019 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 10-20-2019, 10:22 PM   #11
PyroguyFTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saden View Post
As someone who's just had to put in his third clutch in 5 years, the best piece of advice I can give is...USE AN OEM FLYWHEEL PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.

Capslock kidding aside, I can't be more serious about that statement. When the OEM gave out I went with a recommendation from my local Subaru tuning shop and installed a Stage 2 kit with 12 pound flywheel from Competition Clutch. Hated it with every fiber of my being since the first drive home, constant chatter and stalling on takeoff, a manageable stiff pedal that worked more like a light switch - it was on or off. Not having a disposable income to keep experimenting I lived with it until a somewhat fortunate incident, my center differential exploded. Car was still under warranty so while they had the trans out I supplied them a South Bend Clutch kit with 17 pound flywheel. There was an immediately noticeable improvement, but still constant chatter.
This is basically my story, except my warranty was denied because of a J-pipe. As much as I'd love to go back to the factory flywheel, I can't really afford the money right now for something more comfort related than an actual necessity. I was dumb enough to let my local Subie shop talk me into a lightweight FW because "it's what they put on every car they do." so now I've gotta live with it for the time being.

Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
^This is more personal preference, really. I have a 12lbs flywheel and I think it's decent. No stalling issues, no jerk, and not much chatter, with Exedy Stage 1.
I think it really depends where you live. I'm in a place where the infrastructure seems to have been designed with a stop sign or a light at every hill, and every driver is angry and doesn't like waiting at a green for more than .05 seconds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
Have you or anyone else messed with the adjustment under the dash with the old clutch trying to get more life out of it?

I've seen this before, were someone thinks they can adjust the freeplay and get more life out of a self adjusting clutch, and end up nuking the new clutch, as its not properly set back, when the new clutch is installed.

With you hand, not your foot, press the clutch pedal, you should have about 1/2" of freeplay at the top (no load), if there is more or none, likely the process of the new flywheel final machined thickness, or just the thickness of the clutch has changed the pickup point, or see above issue if someone dorked with it.

I installed the Exedy FF01 Lightweight and stage 1 organic 15802HD set, I made 2 turns on the adjustment to get the free-play correct.
I personally didn't do anything with it, but I took it to the shop and asked for it to be brought up just a hair, and got it back a few minutes later with it adjusted to "as far up as it would go" which made it almost more annoying to drive. Despite all of this, I have been driving it and just took a 2k mile road trip and am still not entirely comfortable with anything other than a level/downhill slow start.

Is there a video about adjusting the clutch on one of these? I've looked on youtube but haven't been able to find a video on anything other than adjusting the clutch switch.
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Old 10-21-2019, 01:21 AM   #12
Blktrax
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There is no “bringing it up as far as it will go” it’s either adjusted properly or it isn’t.

Too much one way and there constant load on the throw out bearing, and will likely prematurely fail, or cause clutch slip.

Or too little action in the movement leading to possibly grinding synchros and hard to go into gear from a stop.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xcsFy2I7MPI
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:32 AM   #13
PyroguyFTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
There is no “bringing it up as far as it will go” it’s either adjusted properly or it isn’t.

Too much one way and there constant load on the throw out bearing, and will likely prematurely fail, or cause clutch slip.

Or too little action in the movement leading to possibly grinding synchros and hard to go into gear from a stop.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xcsFy2I7MPI
Thank you, I'm gonna try to get under there tonight and bring it down some. Any tips on which wrench to use?
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Old 10-21-2019, 03:48 PM   #14
Blktrax
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Just a regular 12mm combination to loosen the lock nut, the rod turns/twists by hand.
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