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Old 05-19-2013, 08:38 PM   #176
STIfun
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Where is everyone buying OEM Fluids I need to change out diff fluid, transmission, brake fluid.


Thank just wandering what Subaru dealer gives the best discount to Nasioc members.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:04 PM   #177
T_woot
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Brake fluid you can buy at your local auto store. Trans and diff would be the dealer or some online vendor who sells oem fluids. Amazon? I have uncle scottys mix in my trans and valvoline in my diff.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:48 PM   #178
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Can I drive my car up onto ramps then jack up the rear, and place jackstands to hold the rear up, while the ramps hold the front up?
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommyp View Post
Can I drive my car up onto ramps then jack up the rear, and place jackstands to hold the rear up, while the ramps hold the front up?
I do it all the time. Be sure to Jack up from the center diff. So you don't tip your ramp
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:24 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommyp View Post
Can I drive my car up onto ramps then jack up the rear, and place jackstands to hold the rear up, while the ramps hold the front up?
Yes, and depending on what you're doing, you can back the rear up onto the ramps and put the front on stands. There really isn't much you need to do with the rear higher than the front so this is the better option.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:30 AM   #181
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I have a silly question. Do I check my tranny fluid while the vehicle is running or off?
98 legacy gt auto
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:11 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAPOQ View Post
I have a silly question. Do I check my tranny fluid while the vehicle is running or off?
98 legacy gt auto
Off, and if you look at the dipstick it has different markings for warm or cold.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:07 AM   #183
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How can you tell if your pvc is bad? Its driving kinda rough and im not sure where to begin with diagnosing it. Idle is rather rough as well. Ill probably do the iacv aswell
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:00 PM   #184
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Originally Posted by tjmmason93 View Post
How can you tell if your pvc is bad? Its driving kinda rough and im not sure where to begin with diagnosing it. Idle is rather rough as well. Ill probably do the iacv aswell
Good question...I think mine is bad as well. This is from the 1st post in this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
What brand/type of PCV valve should I use, how often should I change it?

The SOA schedules do not call for a specific replacement schedule. Based on internet searches, it might be advisable to add it to your major 30,000 mile maintenance schedules. If you remove the PCV valve and shake it back and forth, you should hear it click back and forth. No rattling sound indicates it's stuck and needs replacement.

Unlike other maintenance items, there is almost no research into PCV valves. Suffice it to say that most consider the OEM and aftermarket PCV valve on the same level, so use which is easiest to obtain or based on personal preference.

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Old 07-15-2013, 11:17 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by prochucker View Post
Good question...I think mine is bad as well. This is from the 1st post in this thread.
Lol im glad im not the onky confused one here, I was told its generally a good idea to replace them on turbo cars but still how do I know if its bad, other than taking it out and shaking it
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjmmason93 View Post
Lol im glad im not the onky confused one here, I was told its generally a good idea to replace them on turbo cars but still how do I know if its bad, other than taking it out and shaking it
That's about it. Burning excessive oil? Got oil in your intake and intercooler? I think that's it, and those two things can be caused by other things. They aren't expensive, but a PITA to change I hear.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:31 PM   #187
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Oil in intercooler yes, from what I see Intake no
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:02 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjmmason93 View Post
Oil in intercooler yes, from what I see Intake no
During my next set of mods, I will be installing an Air/oil separator, I may just eliminate it all together. There is a special type of pliers that can remove those weird hose clamps, if you do this I recommend replacing them. While doing a Boost leak test, we had to plug that line, so mine are gone already. The oil comes from the PVC and winds up in the Intake Duct that connects to the turbo, which pushes it into the IC etc. Oil in the intake winds up in the motor, mixed with air & gas, which reduces the octane level, which causes issues, particularly with higher HP tuned cars.
Your call, change it at some point in time when you have the IC off for some reason.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:12 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by prochucker View Post
During my next set of mods, I will be installing an Air/oil separator, I may just eliminate it all together. There is a special type of pliers that can remove those weird hose clamps, if you do this I recommend replacing them. While doing a Boost leak test, we had to plug that line, so mine are gone already. The oil comes from the PVC and winds up in the Intake Duct that connects to the turbo, which pushes it into the IC etc. Oil in the intake winds up in the motor, mixed with air & gas, which reduces the octane level, which causes issues, particularly with higher HP tuned cars.
Your call, change it at some point in time when you have the IC off for some reason.
What kind of air/oil seperater do you plan on getting
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:57 AM   #190
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so whats the opinion on
Royal Purple 05130 API-Licensed SAE 10W-30 High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil for 2012 STI ?
driving in NYC and doing alot of out of state driving to Vermont throughout a year
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:54 AM   #191
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Quick question. when doing my last oil change I think I got maybe a half a quart too much in there. I put in the normal amount let the car run for about 30 seconds turned it off. I saw that it was on the bottom notch so I put in the rest of my half quart I had left, drove it around the next day and checked it again in the evening and it was slightly above the top notch should I crack the drain plug and drain some, or just leave if its not gonna have any negative consequences. I guess I should stop doing oil changes at eleven oclock at night when I am getting sleepy.

Oh yeah I did check it after I put in the last half quart, that put it right below the top notch.
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:01 AM   #192
T_woot
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You need to check engine oil level with the car warm. 30 seconds isnt enough. Drive for 5 minutes then park on a level surface and with the car off and warm, check level. You will probably be okay. But next time, perform those steps.
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:02 AM   #193
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Sound related to the different clutch. More info on parts and tune could help.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:55 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
Quick question. when doing my last oil change I think I got maybe a half a quart too much in there. I put in the normal amount let the car run for about 30 seconds turned it off. I saw that it was on the bottom notch so I put in the rest of my half quart I had left, drove it around the next day and checked it again in the evening and it was slightly above the top notch should I crack the drain plug and drain some, or just leave if its not gonna have any negative consequences. I guess I should stop doing oil changes at eleven oclock at night when I am getting sleepy.

Oh yeah I did check it after I put in the last half quart, that put it right below the top notch.
How much did u put in here ive herd the 2.0 boxer motor holds 4.2quarts of oil and thats full. Odds are if u put 5quarts in it which is what im assuming you did, in my unprofessional opinion I think you will be ok u will probably burn off the extra. How many miles are on it and what is it? And did u change the oil warm or cold?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #195
prochucker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
Quick question. when doing my last oil change I think I got maybe a half a quart too much in there. I put in the normal amount let the car run for about 30 seconds turned it off. I saw that it was on the bottom notch so I put in the rest of my half quart I had left, drove it around the next day and checked it again in the evening and it was slightly above the top notch should I crack the drain plug and drain some, or just leave if its not gonna have any negative consequences. I guess I should stop doing oil changes at eleven oclock at night when I am getting sleepy.

Oh yeah I did check it after I put in the last half quart, that put it right below the top notch.
OK, the great WJM, (search for him on here), a well respected Subaru Master Tech, always ran an extra quart in all his Subys. I have started doing the same in my STi, without any problems so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjmmason93 View Post
What kind of air/oil seperater do you plan on getting
Crawford or Moroso, the Grimspeed looks cool, but I can't see it functioning as well as the others considering it's small size, and there is the additional PITA getting that cap off. None of them are cheap, so I may have to go to a catch can for a while.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:53 PM   #196
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Thanks guys. I thought I remembered the crank case vent getting plumbed back into the intake tract on some car I had? Was just worried if that was the case it put extra oil in there. But I dont think that's the case I can't remember the car that's making me think of that either
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:02 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dru_hill View Post
Some 04's (and possibly later on) have a T-70 Torx bit for the trans drain plug, most places dont carry this, I had to order mine from England or something. Even the Craftsman catalog and Snap-On catalog that I looked at didnt have them in there.
currently available from Amazon Prime for under $8...
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dru_hill View Post
Some 04's (and possibly later on) have a T-70 Torx bit for the trans drain plug, most places dont carry this, I had to order mine from England or something. Even the Craftsman catalog and Snap-On catalog that I looked at didnt have them in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hetkind View Post
currently available from Amazon Prime for under $8...
Also available from Import Image Racing for about the same price. I have not seen them myself, but someone in the Jax, FL area picked one up at Harbor Freight. Go into a Sears, and they can order you one.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:58 PM   #199
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If this isn't the right place for this, let me know and i'll post it elsewhere.

I've got a 2010 Impreza Outback Sport and I'm due for my 30K, and per Unabomber's 2nd bold header, I've cross checked the Subaru maintenance schedule with the dealership. There are 3 items that are "inspect" on the Subaru schedule, but the dealership wants to outright replace (Trans & Diff fluids, brake calipers).



The dealership (Morrie's Minnetonka in MN) charges almost $900 for the full service, but I'm doing a very minor thing (cabin air filter) myself, and getting a discount from a local website (MNSubaru). Still, it's going to be ~$500.

I've tried to force the issue with them that I just want things inspected, but they are pushing back saying that it's required for their "Buy Happy" guarantee. At this point, I think the only things that's actually doing for me is free oil changes, so I may tell them to stuff it, but I thought I'd post here and get some other opinions.


Also, should I upgrade to Platinum or Iridium spark plugs?

Last edited by Spidy; 08-11-2013 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:57 AM   #200
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Change the fluids, but it says, "Brake Caliper Service" not replace. It depends on what their "Buy Happy" guarantee is. as to whether or not it's a good deal.
W/O the cabin filter it would be $700+ so for abut 500 it's a deal.They are not going to replace the calipers, the rebuild kit is about $15 each, so for $90 bucks jump on it, you won't need to worry about them for sure.
I would replace the plugs, either will do. Iridium if you are not stock.
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