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Old 12-21-2008, 03:05 PM   #76
flyboymike
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BD: Thank goodness you're here, Random Interjection Man!
RIM: Ducks don't have any thumbs!

Anyway, have a nice holiday season.
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Old 01-05-2009, 06:18 PM   #77
Butt Dyno
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FWIW, after sending some PM's back and forth with Greg (mccannix) he offered to sell me his modified Cuscos so I bought them instead. (This is as close as I will come to a national championship any time soon ) My unmodified set is for sale - as far as I know it is 100% brand new (that's what the guy told me at least).

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1660438

Some rambling coming up:
-Tire plans
-60% vs 80% vs 100% prep
-Slightly more final schedule/prep plans for 09
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:31 PM   #78
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Hey, those plates are fast!
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:15 AM   #79
wrx wagone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
I assume that I want to use as little static negative camber as possible to accomplish my goals (to help braking, digging out of corners, etc) and that with +6 caster I will need less - I just don't know exactly where that line is yet.
John, just use a pryometer (mine is called my hand) and give the tire whatever camber it needs to get the most tire in play on the course. Don't worry anything about what anyone else runs, just worry about giving your setup the most tire possible on the asphalt. Tire heat will answer that question.
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:55 PM   #80
Butt Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx wagone View Post
John, just use a pryometer (mine is called my hand) and give the tire whatever camber it needs to get the most tire in play on the course. Don't worry anything about what anyone else runs, just worry about giving your setup the most tire possible on the asphalt. Tire heat will answer that question.
The pyrometer data from August indicated that I might have a touch too much negative in the front, IIRC. That was with -4, so that's why I've been thinking -3.5 with an additional bunch of caster should only help. We shall see.

One other suggestion I got was to flip the Ground Control plates side to side (thanks penderperson), creating the same effect as the swapped Cuscos. I tried this before and it didn't look like it would fit, but I will check it out when I'm reassembling the suspension. If I can keep that travel I'd like to - it'll certainly be nicer on road trips.

Next year progress

Quote:
1) Interior (rice):
-Get rid of the armrest extension. Since I'm not DD'ing the car it's not that helpful.
-Swap the JDM Ver7 cluster out for a USDM STi cluster. That way when a normal person drives the car they can figure out how fast it's going without converting kph to mph.
-Put the Alpine stereo from the MR2 into the WRX. Should be a little lighter but more importantly I can use the iPod more easily on road trips, and won't have to deal with CD's anymore.
-Get red LED's installed so that everything matches. ("ricer!!!")
The armrest extension is gone, replaced by the OEM lid. My 2004 STi cluster is back from Tacoma Speedometer and ready to get installed once the mileage matches. My Alpine is now in the WRX and hooked up to the iPod, so I will have plenty of tunes for those road trips. Haven't redified the interior fully yet though.

Winter prep / streetability

Once upon a time, my car was my daily driver. For the last 4 years, it's mostly been an autox car, but I still drive it in the winter when the weather is crummy. This winter I have been too lazy to get tires for the M3 so I am actually daily driving the car again. One of the goals for the Street Touring category is theoretically keeping the car compatible with street use. I am happy to report that it is

I am more insane than most people, as I take my autox suspension off for the winter so that it doesn't get salt and other crunk on there. I don't have dust boots, though that wouldn't be very hard to do. It's not the ride quality that scares me - even with the 450/500 lb/in springs, the car rides well enough that I could easily DD it if an asteroid hit the M3. (Go Koni!) Mostly I am worried about it getting in the spring perches and rusting, and it being a pain in the ass to adjust the ride height in the future.

Because I am still an aesthetic weenie, I bought a set of Prodrives for the car so that it would still look good in the winter. Fortunately my stock struts only have about 25K miles on them, so they're still fresh.

I've noticed the following stuff about my setup so far this winter:

-My Odyssey PC680 battery has been awesome. IIRC, it's three years old at this point. Even after three straight days of 15 degree weather it started up just fine. I was worried that, since it wasn't in a relatively warm garage anymore, I might have issues, but I haven't.

-The BHP XPS pads are very flexible. They'll happily do a track day even on a car as heavy/fast as mine (or so I'm told) and they do better in the cold, IMHO, than the Hawk HPS, which has a lower max operating temperature as the XPS. The first few stops of the day are 100% fine, no drama. Same thing for that first panic stop after a bunch of miles on the highway. They do squeal a little, but that's all.

-The 15 degree weather inspired my swaybar to make noises I have never heard my car make before. Really horrible, horrible creaking. The bar typically creaks more on the stock struts/soft lowering springs. I attributed that to the softness allowing more travel than normal, but that's an unscientific guess. Anyhoo, the bar appears to really really hate cold weather.

-Driving on snow tires is no damned fun. Except in the snow.

Anyhoo, no real complaints.

Tire plans

I *think* that I won two free Yokohama tires due to being the fastest driver that was on them during the Autocrossers Inc, series. Well, the fastest driver that did at least three events on Yokohamas. That makes my tire choice pretty academic, assuming the new AD08's are released before the SCCA tire deadline.

The next question would be 235 vs 245 and that will depend on how wide the tires are. I've seen some of the BMW folks post that they will have a hard time getting 265's on the car, so the rule change won't hurt as much as it might have.

I'm kicking around the idea of picking up a set of the R1R's for cold/wet stuff. They might suck on heavy cars, but it might be okay in the rain. The compound definitely seems to like the cold/wet stuff. The downside is, what if you put your rains on and it turns out to be sunny? For that reason I doubt I'd go this route... just throwing it out there.

Ramblingly yours

john
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:42 PM   #81
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I keep threatening to get a pyrometer, thus far it's just a threat

I do think it would be a heck of a tool to help optimize camber settings and by the sounds of things you'll have plenty of camber to play w/
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Old 01-22-2009, 12:26 AM   #82
Butt Dyno
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I don't own one, Slava does, but on that day the nice people from Yokohama came out to our event to do it for us. They were really supportive of the local series

I just want to throw this stuff in here, as I'm cleaning out my email. It was an email I sent to the guys at SmartCamber and their response. Might help someone - the device confused me a little bit at first

Quote:
My wife picked me up the SmartCamber tool for Christmas and I just spent
some time playing with it. Naturally I have some questions

1) The "squaring" process only has to happen the first time, right? Once
it reads 90 degrees at the end, it's square?

2) The squaring process names a window as a vertical surface. Is a door
okay? I don't have any ground-level windows that will work...

3) Once I have squared it, if the car is in my garage (on a presumably not
100% level surface) do I just have to do the "non level surface"
calibration and then do the zero adjust for each wheel?

4) When doing the zero adjust for each wheel should it be parallel to the
wheel or perpendicular?

thanks
Response:
Quote:
1) Squaring only needs to be done once.

2) Any parallel surface works (A level held in a vertical position securely
can be up to 7 degrees from vertical

3) Yes I would take the time to make a level surface in your garage it will
save you a lot of time in the future.

4) Put the tool on its short feet on your level or bar that goes across the
ground in front of your tires.

If you have further problems call me at 408-[redacted]

Gary
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Old 01-27-2009, 11:50 PM   #83
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Totally get the pyrometer, i got one from harbor freight for $30 and use it all the time, really helps when chaning setup or when changing surfaces.

Let me know how the GC plates work out...i can get some pics if its not working.

You're not the only nut...i switch back to stock for winter too! Wear and tear on expensive shocks, grime on the bearings and stock alignment for winter weather drive that decision for me!

I'm glad to see your odyssey is working well, i just ordered a braile 21lb battery(went for the 33AH rating so i could still throw my sub in sometimes).

Good luck on you upcoming season
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:33 AM   #84
fengrr
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Where did you get your BHP XPS pads. And do you really still need two cats??
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:48 AM   #85
Butt Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fengrr View Post
Where did you get your BHP XPS pads. And do you really still need two cats??
Straight from BHP. They were on clearance for $50/set. Scooby921 tipped me off to how good the pads were so I bought two sets. There's a number of pads listed in this thread that *should* be similar if you don't have ST40 calipers:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=bhp

I don't know if I need two cats, but I wanted to be sure that I wouldn't have any CEL issues. I'll find out when I get ProTuned how much of a restriction it is over the old setup.
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:41 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
Bonus Challenge

A big thanks for Evanthe, Josh, Junior, and everyone else who wished me luck - it means a lot
You are welcome!! Loved having a hometown hero to root for, especially a NASIOC subaru! Having won the bonus challenge myself in the STi in 2007, I know how stressful it is to run a challenge. Now you have challenge experience under your belt, and I promise... that'll make for better times the next time you're in the challenge.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:40 PM   #87
Butt Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by verve94 View Post
You are welcome!! Loved having a hometown hero to root for, especially a NASIOC subaru! Having won the bonus challenge myself in the STi in 2007, I know how stressful it is to run a challenge. Now you have challenge experience under your belt, and I promise... that'll make for better times the next time you're in the challenge.
I certainly hope so. Or maybe I'll never get picked again

I got my Ver8 cluster installed tonight after waiting patiently for the cluster mileage to sync up to the car's mileage. Bling!



Some tips for anyone whoever needs to remove their cluster (to replace a bulb, or because you are ricing your car out)
-There's not a lot of room back there. You'll likely curse a lot. Be prepared
-Remove the two screws holding in the shroud (or in my case, remove the shroud because you lost the screws a long time ago)
-Remove the three screws holding in the cluster (or in my case... yeah)
-There are three connectors going into the back of the cluster. Work left to right - driver's side first, then middle, then passenger side.
-The driver's side connector is pretty easy - you can slide the cluster out a little so that the clear part is facing up towards the roof, and then pull out the left side a little. A Philips head makes it a lot easier to press the tabs in that hold the connectors into the cluster.
-The center one is a pain in the ass. I have found that it's easiest to get at it by sliding the left end of the cluster out, and then opening the door of the car and disconnecting it with your feet out of the car so you can get a better angle on it.
-The right one is pretty easy at this point since the other two are out and there is plenty of room.

When putting it back in, put the right-side one in first, then the center, then the left. The left is harder because there is not a lot of slack in the harness but will click in eventually.

Now it's time to red out the HVAC, gauges and foglight switches

I'll probably swap the suspension back on next weekend since it looks like (*hoping*) the worst of the winter is past us.
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:19 PM   #88
mccanixx
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So where's the center diff gonna be set for competetion?

I keed I keed....................looks cool.
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:26 PM   #89
Butt Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccanixx View Post
So where's the center diff gonna be set for competetion?

I keed I keed....................looks cool.
You see those arrows in the cluster? The ones on the left that get smaller as it goes down? The last one is labeled "awesome". That's the one I use. It's hard to see in the pic.

BTW, I saw you signed up for STX at Toledo. If you want a co-drive all you have to do is ask
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:17 PM   #90
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Sweet, now you can actually see how slow you're going in MPH.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:00 AM   #91
mccanixx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
You see those arrows in the cluster? The ones on the left that get smaller as it goes down? The last one is labeled "awesome". That's the one I use. It's hard to see in the pic.

BTW, I saw you signed up for STX at Toledo. If you want a co-drive all you have to do is ask
Thanks for making me spit my coffee out....................... I am awesomo

I appreciate the co-drive offer but there will be one more in esp.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:27 PM   #92
gompka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
I certainly hope so. Or maybe I'll never get picked again

I got my Ver8 cluster installed tonight after waiting patiently for the cluster mileage to sync up to the car's mileage. Bling!



Some tips for anyone whoever needs to remove their cluster (to replace a bulb, or because you are ricing your car out)
-There's not a lot of room back there. You'll likely curse a lot. Be prepared
-Remove the two screws holding in the shroud (or in my case, remove the shroud because you lost the screws a long time ago)
-Remove the three screws holding in the cluster (or in my case... yeah)
-There are three connectors going into the back of the cluster. Work left to right - driver's side first, then middle, then passenger side.
-The driver's side connector is pretty easy - you can slide the cluster out a little so that the clear part is facing up towards the roof, and then pull out the left side a little. A Philips head makes it a lot easier to press the tabs in that hold the connectors into the cluster.
-The center one is a pain in the ass. I have found that it's easiest to get at it by sliding the left end of the cluster out, and then opening the door of the car and disconnecting it with your feet out of the car so you can get a better angle on it.
-The right one is pretty easy at this point since the other two are out and there is plenty of room.

When putting it back in, put the right-side one in first, then the center, then the left. The left is harder because there is not a lot of slack in the harness but will click in eventually.

Now it's time to red out the HVAC, gauges and foglight switches

I'll probably swap the suspension back on next weekend since it looks like (*hoping*) the worst of the winter is past us.
nice
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:23 PM   #93
Butt Dyno
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Some updates on the goals from post #70:

I got my Konis put back on the car today. To review:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
3) Suspension tweaks.
-I am keeping the same coilovers and spring rates, for sure. My knee jerk reaction to the last couple of events was to want to swap the Cobb rear bar out for an OEM 20mm bar, but then if the car ever ends up being too tight, I would not be able to stiffen the rear bar to compensate.
-Some sort of aftermarket bushings in the rear lateral links. Not sure if this will be Grp N rubber, or poly stuff.
-Cusco front camber plates, haxored and flipped for more caster. I'm hoping to be able to get -3.5 camber and something like +6 caster. I am not yet 100% sure it's worth it since I would be giving up a lot of bump travel to do this. I'm not selling the Ground Control plates though, having learned my lesson about selling parts before you're sure the replacement is better
-Cut the bump stops. Brad did this and was able to run his car lower as a result. When I was at 13.6 instead of 13.8 I noticed a ride quality hit. I'm hoping I can get back down to that height and not be riding the stops *as* much.
So, based on the stuff available in my garage, I had three options for the front camber plates:
1) Reinstall the Ground Control plates just like last year.
2) Try installing the Ground Control plates flipped and rotated to try to get caster, hoping that I'd be able to get enough camber to make up for the flipping.
3) Install the perfectly good Cusco plates I have, which have already been modified for optimum camber/caster.

I decided to try #2. If it doesn't work out I will put Greg's old plates on the car. I just didn't want to give up all that front travel (the GC's add it, and the Cuscos take it away) unless I had to.

I'll post pictures soon - but it looks like with the rotated plates the shock is pretty much as far back as it could be. If you are standing at the front bumper, and looking at the strut towers, the shock is pretty much right at the 11:00 position on the driver's side, and the 1:00 position on the passenger side. 10:00 / 2:00 would be closer to what I want but if it works this way, it works.

I also cut the first nub off the bumpstops, about 15mm worth, after exchanging some PM's with Brad/Scooby921 last year about it. Last year when I lowered the car to 13.6" front, the impact on ride quality was noticeable - so hopefully this will let me run the front a smidge lower without hurting the ride (and the handling, of course).

I nixed the idea of going back to the OEM rear bar. I think that adjusting the rear ride height is just as easy as adjusting the rear swaybar - possibly easier - and for my needs just as good if I need to make an emergency balance change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
My tentative plan is:
-All the WDCR/SCCA events
-6-12 - Tour in NY
-6-20 - ProSolo at Fedex
-7-25 - ProSolo in Ohio
-8-9 - Northeast Divisional in Massachusetts
-9-5 to 9-11 - Nationals in Nebraska
I'm registered for the two ProSolos, but haven't figured out if I'm going to Finger Lakes, Devens or both.

Next step - set the ride heights, and head to Andrewtech for an alignment.

I'll start the season off on last year's 235-40-17 RE01Rs. My Neovas were left (by me) in a cold garage for 2 weeks, and you're not supposed to do that:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....VAN+Neova+AD07
Quote:
Therefore, unlike less highly-tuned tires, Yokohama's care instructions specify that due to its compound characteristics, ADVAN Neova tires must be used and stored at temperatures above -10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit) to maintain its performance and avoid tire damage.
I felt like they were dropping off at the end of the year anyway (they have 160+ runs on them) so the RE01Rs should get me through the first couple events. Plus they're a known baseline to check the suspension tweaks against. I'm going to snag a set of AD08s as soon as they're released and go from there.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:47 PM   #94
Butt Dyno
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Preliminary unscientific camber gauge measurements have the car at -4.0/-3.9 as it sits, with the plates at "max caster, lots of negative camber" and the OEM camber bolt at max negative camber. Nice. The goal is -3.5 with +6 caster - we'll find out soon.

I set the ride height to 13.6" all around as well. I figure that this should be a good starting point, and if there's understeer I'll play with tire pressures, raise the rear height or stiffen the rear bar. Last year, the car was really loose in the end of October and in November and a "safer" setup would have been good. So I'm going to start there this time, especially since the season may start off in those sorts of temperatures and need a little calming down.

Wednesday: alignment and 90K/pre-tune checkup. The car is getting ProTuned by P&L Motorsports, aka Jorge/Riftswrx, on the 28th. Hopefully I can get some of that midrange torque back.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:58 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
Last year, the car was really loose in the end of October and in November and a "safer" setup would have been good.
I can attest to that.


Hope the setup works well, see you on Sunday!
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:01 PM   #96
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be curious to see what caster numbers you get, if your in the 6-ish range might negate some of the static neg camber needed- might get by w/ less then -3.5
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:03 PM   #97
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Yeah, I'm just worried that with the car's past issues getting caster I may not be able to get as much as hoped.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:05 PM   #98
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John- do you have the offset bushings in as well?

Mike
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:06 PM   #99
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I do. With the plates in the old configuration the max I could get on one side was 3.9, but I think on the other side I could only get 3.4. It's in this thread somewhere

Ah, wrong:
Quote:
After the bushings were in, we made sure they were facing the right way, and everything was tightened, I had +3.0 on the driver's side and +3.8 on the passenger side.
Should be interesting Ride height may be playing a role as well - so with the "flatter" settings I may get different results.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:13 PM   #100
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-that is pretty low, my 04 was ~ 3.5-ish bare bone stock

assuming you already double checked the orientation of the WL bushings?
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