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Old 06-07-2017, 02:55 PM   #11351
Gigs90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Who is 'most' would be the hundreds of people selling parts that really define the parts you're getting when you purchase things using 'version' nomenclature. Go ahead and run a Google image search for 'v9 headlights sti' and see what you find. How about 'v9 nose cut'? Same story. You'll see a few A-E chassis images pop up, but if you actually click on them, they'll all be listed as 'v7' or 'v8' - the 'v9' links are all F/G chassis cars.

You can disagree all you want... but I stand by my statement about just saying GDB-A through G being the best route to go. I don't know why anyone would push for a system that adds ambiguity into the mix.

The comments below my last one clearly show a huge issue - US and Euro terminology is completely screwy.



Yes, this is correct. My base chassis is a 2006 USDM STi with single AVCS. Going to dual AVCS with a standalone was as easy as running 4 wires (+12V, GND, LH Ex. Cam Pos., RH Ex. Cam Pos.) and re-pinning the TGV motor +12V and GND wires to the exhaust AVCS +12V and GND outputs.

I had more trouble sourcing a mating connector for the TGV plugs than I did figuring out the wiring. If anyone wants to do this without butchering the harness - Sumitomo 6188-0624 is the one you want.
Good info

I was reading about doing an EJ20x swap into my Legacy GT and found out adding dual avcs is not that bad at all.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:19 PM   #11352
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Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
This is the problem with both the 'version' nomenclature and your info thread. 'V9' is nebulous - most eBay sellers assign this to GDB-F and GDB-G parts but you've chosen to include the 2005 (GDB-E) in this category, as well. The GDB-E is an entirely different body style than the GDB-F/G.

There is nothing nebulous about the V9, other than you wanting to come up with a different standard than what was used for many years now. The bodystyle mans nothing when you're dealing with the engines only, like we do in US and actually the V9 nicely sums up a bunch of changes.
That's why years before me, people decided to group them in this category and that's why it worked until... yesterday?


GDB-A/B - first body style (eBay sellers call this V7)
GDB-C/D/E - second body style (eBay sellers call this V8)
GDB-F/G - third body style (eBay sellers call this V9)

So they sell engines by bodystyles?

GDB-A to D = narrow track
GDB-E to G = wide track

Your info page lumps the second body style, wide-track model (GDB-E) in with the third body style. See where I'm going here? No one is on the same page with this, but the MAJORITY of people equate the 'version' nomenclature with the following:

No, YOU are not on the same page with the page. It really doesn't matter to me. The MAJORIY is like this: People Outside US have V10 and V11 inside GDB

V7 = Bugeye
V8 = Blobeye
V9 = Hawkeye

Just because your info thread decides to call the GDB-E a 'V9' model doesn't mean the majority of people will call it this.

It only means that people HVAE BEEN calling it this, but be my guest, call it whatever you want.

I try to avoid the 'version' nomenclature whenever possible, but if I'm going to use it at all, I'm gonna be following the pattern that the majority of people are using.

Then you should use the pattern in my thread, but I like your modesty

If you don't want to cause confusion, the best nomenclature to use is the GDB-A through G coding... Subaru already gave us a perfectly usable system; why anyone tries to lump significantly different models into 'eyes' or 'versions' is beyond me.

Is it beyond you that there is a different number of letters for revisions in US and JDM? Where does this take you?



As you mentioned, this is the 2005 Spec C ECU which is not immobilized. This corresponds to a GDB-E, which most would call a 'V8', but you call a 'V9.

Again, these must be the hundreds of people you're bringing into this conversation.. wow


Two new/crated single AVCS EJ20 blocks out of Australia w/forged internals, a variety of used single AVCS EJ207 heads, and a '10 Spec C Dual AVCS EJ207 needing a rebuild; why do you ask? The motor installed in my car is still the USDM EJ257 and it will likely stay that way until the shell is caged.

Right now I'm rebuilding the tranny so swapping the motor isn't a huge priority. I am, however, having a 'rev.B' patch loom made (as in, I just completed payment to Boomslang two days ago) to add dual AVCS wiring to my motor loom so I can control the dual AVCS motor with my factory wiring. Not really related to the topic, but I found that adding dual AVCS control is pretty easy if you just re-use the TGV wiring You only need to run a total of 4 wires for the cam position sensors.
In sum, its a free forum, feel free to call the revisions whatever you want, I don't know why you're putting so much effort into justifying a change in a convention that has been around for many years, one that I have not even come up with. And one that actually makes perfect sense for our market, where we don't worry about body, but about engines. It is because it is useful that it stuck around for so long.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:38 PM   #11353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Who is 'most' would be the hundreds of people selling parts that really define the parts you're getting when you purchase things using 'version' nomenclature. Go ahead and run a Google image search for 'v9 headlights sti' and see what you find. How about 'v9 nose cut'? Same story. You'll see a few A-E chassis images pop up, but if you actually click on them, they'll all be listed as 'v7' or 'v8' - the 'v9' links are all F/G chassis cars.

Again, ebay sellers? why are you even bringing up body parts into a conversation about engines?

You can disagree all you want... but I stand by my statement about just saying GDB-A through G being the best route to go. I don't know why anyone would push for a system that adds ambiguity into the mix.

Again, you can stand for whatever you want and actually I hope you begin the conversations soon with those that view the rev F as V10 and Rev G as V11, because you're just one in a line of many that wants to change the versions, of course each in their own way. All that the thread engine designations are is a common denominator, something that has been agreed on for a long time...

The comments below my last one clearly show a huge issue - US and Euro terminology is completely screwy.





Yes, this is correct. My base chassis is a 2006 USDM STi with single AVCS. Going to dual AVCS with a standalone was as easy as running 4 wires (+12V, GND, LH Ex. Cam Pos., RH Ex. Cam Pos.) and re-pinning the TGV motor +12V and GND wires to the exhaust AVCS +12V and GND outputs.

I had more trouble sourcing a mating connector for the TGV plugs than I did figuring out the wiring. If anyone wants to do this without butchering the harness - Sumitomo 6188-0624 is the one you want.
In sum, while the designations have been and remain a good base, nobody is stopping you from starting your own system, or go by revisions, as you wrote.
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Old 06-07-2017, 10:53 PM   #11354
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I'm not suggesting a new system or a change to a system that is already in place. Subaru already gave you a great system that identifies your exact model year with a single letter. Use it or don't... but if you're trying to somehow convince me that the nebulous GC-era carry-over 'version' scheme is somehow better, enjoy constantly making follow-up posts explaining why your 'v9' motor has no immobilizer because you've decided to lump 2005 models into that category.

Ignorance is one thing, but willfully dismissing a system that is already in place, less ambiguous, and universally recognized by anyone looking at OEM documents and part systems is another. I file people with this line of thinking into same category as people that tell you they have a 'stage 2 blah, blah' car between puffs on their vape pen.
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Old 06-08-2017, 01:43 PM   #11355
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I think you fail to see the timeline here.
First, this is a system that has been in place for a long time and has been used for a long time.

Nobody is obligated to use this, but if you choose to, you will probably have the same results as all the others before you, which were not bad.

While this may be new to you, because you didn't look at the table, many others did, and it has served as a form of convention, a way for all to speak the same language.

Nobody said you can't use the factory designations.

The other thing to keep in mind is that this was enthusiast work that was done circa 2005.

So you had first an enthusiast in Japan that made available to the community the Fast2 JDM.
Then someone else put together the compiled list of part numbers and analyzed their meaning.
This was the first time; in 2005, when all the legends of JDM could be dispelled and a reality check would be possible, real information available to the masses.

That is the real value of the list.
The part where I came in was that the information was there but it was not readily available in a comprehensive format and some of those that had the info were not willing to share it with the community.

I decided to put this out for all to see and use.

Does it make it better than the factory designation ? No.
But at its time, in its day, it was the only source of realistic info. And it remains a very good source.

And I'll tell you this:
Don't take for granted all the freedom you have in the Subaru world. In the Mercedes world, there is no open source tuning.
There is no free parts software, I paid $700 for mine combined with the FSM.

So even today, when you fire up the Fast2, that's a guy back in 2003 that gave it to you for free.

And that's worth mentioning ......
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:37 PM   #11356
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is it silly and to question the ability to add a twin scroll turbo to my EJ207 version 7? What are the pros and cons?
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Old 06-09-2017, 05:17 PM   #11357
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Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
is it silly and to question the ability to add a twin scroll turbo to my EJ207 version 7? What are the pros and cons?
for a nice wide power band and quick spool with stock location offerings...not silly at all.

cons are, you could have spent the same money on a single scroll rotated kit and get more top end and alot more turbo selections.

Depends on your driving style and where you like your powerband.
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Old 06-09-2017, 05:46 PM   #11358
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truly i want a rotated setup but getting someone to modify and weld up my APS FMI pipes amongst other things is the issue here it's great being on an island but people are only out for money, quality lacks. I'm still running my stock location 30R

EDIT: who makes a stock location twin scroll turbo that i can use?
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:16 PM   #11359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
truly i want a rotated setup but getting someone to modify and weld up my APS FMI pipes amongst other things is the issue here it's great being on an island but people are only out for money, quality lacks. I'm still running my stock location 30R

EDIT: who makes a stock location twin scroll turbo that i can use?

Just get a equal length header Killer B , Perrin etc.
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:23 PM   #11360
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Just get a equal length header Killer B , Perrin etc.


I already own a killer b that replaced my fujitsubo EL years ago.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:01 AM   #11361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
truly i want a rotated setup but getting someone to modify and weld up my APS FMI pipes amongst other things is the issue here it's great being on an island but people are only out for money, quality lacks. I'm still running my stock location 30R

EDIT: who makes a stock location twin scroll turbo that i can use?
Blouch makes stock location twinscroll turbos for sure.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:04 AM   #11362
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Originally Posted by mephistomarius View Post
Blouch makes stock location twinscroll turbos for sure.


They do? It's been a while since turbo hunting.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:07 AM   #11363
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Sure do. I'll eventually get the dom 1.5 xtr twinscroll once I'm bored of my vf37.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:29 AM   #11364
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Having seen all sorts of BPT turbo failures I would not spend the $700 over a Kinugawa 20G
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:03 AM   #11365
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steamspeed also makes a stock location jdm twin scroll.

they use garrett chra's and turbines but their own wheel and comp housing.

pretty decent looking and well made.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:26 AM   #11366
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I've been having an issue with my car that I considered to be related to the idle air control valve. On hot days sitting on idle or when sitting in traffic for a bit the car would start idling high. the idle would start rising above 1000 rpm and get up to 3-4000 rpm. Once I'm able to get the car moving on the highway for a bit the idle would return to normal. Other times the condition manifest when I've been driving the car, everything normal, I make a quick stop and turn the car off. When I get back to the car and fire it up the idle will be high, once again, getting on the road for a bit and the idling returns to normal. Saturday I installed a brand new OEM Idle air control valve but to my surprise after driving the car and it operating perfectly normal I made a stop and turned the car off for about 10-15 minutes. When I fired it back on it started to idle just above 1000 rpm. Now I don't understand what is happening, why the issue ? Seems to be related to the coolant temperature. Could it be that I installed the thermostat upside down ? Your help input is always appreciated.
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:27 AM   #11367
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Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
I already own a killer b that replaced my fujitsubo EL years ago.
Then just remember if you wan to go twin-scroll, you'll have to replace that with a twin-scroll header.

On the bright side, someone is looking to purchase a used KillerB header
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:27 PM   #11368
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Then just remember if you wan to go twin-scroll, you'll have to replace that with a twin-scroll header.

On the bright side, someone is looking to purchase a used KillerB header
If you are looking I think I know of two locals with them sitting in their piles of parts
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:49 PM   #11369
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Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
I've been having an issue with my car that I considered to be related to the idle air control valve. On hot days sitting on idle or when sitting in traffic for a bit the car would start idling high. the idle would start rising above 1000 rpm and get up to 3-4000 rpm. Once I'm able to get the car moving on the highway for a bit the idle would return to normal. Other times the condition manifest when I've been driving the car, everything normal, I make a quick stop and turn the car off. When I get back to the car and fire it up the idle will be high, once again, getting on the road for a bit and the idling returns to normal. Saturday I installed a brand new OEM Idle air control valve but to my surprise after driving the car and it operating perfectly normal I made a stop and turned the car off for about 10-15 minutes. When I fired it back on it started to idle just above 1000 rpm. Now I don't understand what is happening, why the issue ? Seems to be related to the coolant temperature. Could it be that I installed the thermostat upside down ? Your help input is always appreciated.
My car acts the same when my coolant temp is pretty high. It idles crazy high but once I start moving it goes to normal. I don't know what temp my fans turn on but when the car hit 212 sitting in traffic is did not like it. I am running water with water wetter too. I would also like to know why it does the weird idle thing.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:08 AM   #11370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
I've been having an issue with my car that I considered to be related to the idle air control valve. On hot days sitting on idle or when sitting in traffic for a bit the car would start idling high. the idle would start rising above 1000 rpm and get up to 3-4000 rpm. Once I'm able to get the car moving on the highway for a bit the idle would return to normal. Other times the condition manifest when I've been driving the car, everything normal, I make a quick stop and turn the car off. When I get back to the car and fire it up the idle will be high, once again, getting on the road for a bit and the idling returns to normal. Saturday I installed a brand new OEM Idle air control valve but to my surprise after driving the car and it operating perfectly normal I made a stop and turned the car off for about 10-15 minutes. When I fired it back on it started to idle just above 1000 rpm. Now I don't understand what is happening, why the issue ? Seems to be related to the coolant temperature. Could it be that I installed the thermostat upside down ? Your help input is always appreciated.
If nothing else, check the fuel pressure too.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:48 AM   #11371
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If you are looking I think I know of two locals with them sitting in their piles of parts
Not for myself, I already have a wonderful set of KillerB headers.

I'm going to pass this along to a member who is looking for a set over in the Private Wanted Classifieds section.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:55 AM   #11372
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I'm also wondering now if it has something to do with the higher pressure Mishimoto radiator cap and Moroso tank cap. I will check fuel pressure, thank you sir.
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:32 PM   #11373
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I'm also wondering now if it has something to do with the higher pressure Mishimoto radiator cap and Moroso tank cap. I will check fuel pressure, thank you sir.
I would not trust a mishimoto cap at all
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:48 PM   #11374
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Mishimoto caps are crap. I read a lot of reviews on the Mishimoto caps and there were nothing but problems with them.


Only use genuine Subaru radiator caps
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:55 PM   #11375
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Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Mishimoto caps are crap. I read a lot of reviews on the Mishimoto caps and there were nothing but problems with them.


Only use genuine Subaru radiator caps
or just Mishimoto is crap works lol
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