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Old 05-25-2016, 01:21 PM   #101
keyoutback
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Update from yesterday.

RH head was cleaned, and rebuilt.

Set up the block for head replacement, and pre-lubed the bores.
LH.


RH.


Headgaskets in place after cleaning the block and head one final time.


On we go!
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:48 PM   #102
keyoutback
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Update.

Double checked everything and torqued the heads to spec.



Rechecked and reset the valve clearances...



Buttoned it all up.



Timing belt all done, rotated the engine and was please to note strong compression!



Pretty much ready to go in, but was awaiting some parts to arrive... a new PCV assembly, thermostat hose and that pesky water pump plug.

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Old 05-31-2016, 01:02 PM   #103
keyoutback
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Last few parts for the motor arrived Saturday...

This is larger motor plug that goes below the water pump..




Fitted.


New molded hose from Thermostat housing.


New PCV assembly.


That all done, I turned my time to prep work for refitting the motor.
In cleaning up I noticed a oil stain on the bottom of the bellhousing, so as I have already done the rear main seal, I will replace the trans front seal before I refit the motor.
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #104
keyoutback
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Its been a few weeks of good and bad....
Preparation for, and a trip to Hawaii, which was fun...
But the sudden and heartbreaking loss of one of our beloved Dogs, Moose last week set me back.


With a heavy heart and in need of distraction, I transferred the built motor from the engine stand, to the hoist. on Tuesday.
As mentioned in the last post, I had replaced the front transmission seal.
Wednesday, I popped it back in.









Slid the lower dowel bolts home..


In!
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:38 PM   #105
keyoutback
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I had a laundry list of sundary items, that it was rational to replace at this time.

1/ Upper and lower radiator hoses. The radiator was replaced maybe 200 miles before the engine failure.
2/ Transmission hoses from chassis rail to radiator, as they were hard and looked suspect.
3/ Fuel filter.
4/ Rubber fuel lines too, and from fuel filter.
5/ Battery.

I am looking closely at the Power Steering return line too,, and it feels hard and looks suspect.
Aside from the last item below, I am almost done...
Radiator is in and filled 50/50.
Conventional 10-30 oil for break in, and a Bosch filter.



One issue I have a issue with is this little bracket...
I carefully bagged and labeled all the parts during disassembly... but this bracket in the "Bellhousing bolts bag" has me baffled...
I dont remember where it goes!

Help?
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:39 PM   #106
keyoutback
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Yesterday, I finished up the last few items on my punch list.
I left the bracket on my above post in my box pending some clues!

Reconnected all the electrical stuff and connected the battery.

Removed the coil plug/HT leads, and crossed my fingers...
The motor spun nicely on the starter for about 8/10 seconds before the oil pressure warning lamp extinguished.
I did 4 more 8/10 second bursts with a couple of minutes between to be sure the motor was oil primed.
Reconnected the coil and HT leads.
Spun the motor and it caught instantly!
Let it idle for a maybe 20 seconds and checked oil light, and for unusual noises, but all seemed ok, so I raise the engine speed to 2000rpm.
After that, I kept the engine running between 1500 and 3000rpm for 20 mins or so, until it was up to temp and fans were cycling.

So far so good!

I have a front CV boot split, and will probably replace the whole shaft, and will probably put new brakes on the front, as well as a complete set of tires.

Road test soon!
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:29 PM   #107
Paul
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Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207

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99% sure that bracket goes on the trans by the starter for a ground strap. If car runs and you have that ground in a good spot I wouldn't worry but you seem a little OCD and Im sure you'll want it back on...LOL

Please keep updating your thread it proved alot of us wrong including me!
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:30 PM   #108
p0staldude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
99% sure that bracket goes on the trans by the starter for a ground strap. If car runs and you have that ground in a good spot I wouldn't worry but you seem a little OCD and Im sure you'll want it back on...LOL

Please keep updating your thread it proved alot of us wrong including me!
Yep, the hole in that bracket goes in the top alternator bolt. The nut is used to screw a ground in it
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #109
keyoutback
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Ok, thanks guys!

I must have had a brain fade.
The ground strap, I put on a threaded hole on the engine block, only maybe 2" from the Starter upper bolt, so It will work, but I will swap the bracket on today!

Anyone have opinions on a "Break in" regime for the engine?
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:12 AM   #110
keyoutback
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Oil Change at 300 miles.
Just changed it again at 1000.
Gonna call it good.
Signing out.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:56 PM   #111
Booki
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While keyoutback might not be a regular on the forum anymore. I would like to thank him for documenting his build.

Goes to show you can get a great result, for not a lot of money.
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:05 PM   #112
keyoutback
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Thanks!
Forgot to update here...

Maybe 1500 miles after I did all the work, the driver had a mishap...
Such is my life!

No injuries or even airbag deployment...

This is what came home on the tow truck..




There was no budget, but we needed to get it back to driveability just to last a bit longer..
So I set to it...
Put a strap around the core support which was bent back 3"... The radiator was ok, but the drive belt had nipped the upper hose, so that was the only replacement.



Then I pulled the hood out again and worked it back to shape with a rubber mallet...






After a lot of beating, tweaking and hot glueing the headlamp and grill tabs back on, it was returned to the driver, looking presentable...

My favorite phrase... "Good from Far, but Far from Good!"






Car was sold in 2017 locally with full disclosure, and links to this and my other thread...
Guy drove it away happy and I never heard another word!
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