2022 Subaru WRX Official Announcement *Merged*

[D-Rodman]

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[fredzy]

Originally Posted by dwf137

I ran the Alpin's on my Golf R in the winter. I loved them. They were way better in the dry and wet than dedicated snow tires, and while not quite as bomber as true snow/ice tires in those conditions, they were miles better than an all season. Great tire for a spirited daily driver in mixed conditions.

+1 for Alpins. I've been using PA5s for 2 seasons now. I've had numerous performance all season tires that were worse in the dry. Even if they were just OK in snow they would be a bargain but they do great. I was a little nervous about the shallow tread wearing quick considering the vehicles I've run them on are savage and I have tended to drive them hard. So far pretty much no perceptible wear in ~5000 miles of driving.

[20WRX20]

Anyone else’s winter tires flat spot if the car sits more than a few days? My factory tires don’t seem to do it as much but with the winters it’s pretty noticeable for the first few miles.

[dgoodhue]

Originally Posted by 20WRX20

Anyone else’s winter tires flat spot if the car sits more than a few days? My factory tires don’t seem to do it as much but with the winters it’s pretty noticeable for the first few miles.

Do you have a blizzard or one of the ice tread snow tires. Those have a layer of soft ice tread, I would assume those would be more susceptible to flat spotting.


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[20WRX20]

Originally Posted by dgoodhue

Do you have a blizzard or one of the ice tread snow tires. Those have a layer of soft ice tread, I would assume those would be more susceptible to flat spotting.


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They’re definitely softer compound for the first 50% which is probably why. Maybe I just need to drive more often lol.

I’ve been looking at new cars and SUVs and man, there is just nothing out there that is worth the asking price IMO. Even though the price of these cars went up a bit they are still a good value for what you get. Just need Subaru to do the plastic cladding delete!

[ProZach626]

^You can buy a set of paint matched fender flares easily. I've seen a lot of FB posts about dealerships selling WRX's with the option.

[20WRX20]

Originally Posted by ProZach626

^You can buy a set of paint matched fender flares easily. I've seen a lot of FB posts about dealerships selling WRX's with the option.

Yeah and they make the car look worse than if they are just left alone. They need to be removed completely along with the rear bumper. Stupidest idea ever on Subarus part.

[samagon]

what about the rear bumper?

the fender arches are ok, when Lamborghini steals your fender design, it makes it easier to accept.

that baboon ass of a rear bumper though...

[20WRX20]

It’s tolerable in gray and black but the right color for the WRX is WRB!

I actually have to stop into my local dealer tomorrow and get an oil filter. I might see what kind of numbers they can come up with since they have over a dozen of these sitting around. Really though I see no point in upgrading from my ‘20.

[samagon]

if I were forced to get a new WRX, it would be orange.

[Snow Drift]

Red or bust.

[P.Rico]

Originally Posted by samagon

if I were forced to get a new WRX, it would be orange.

Amen to that.

[rexster]

Originally Posted by 20WRX20

Anyone else's winter tires flat spot if the car sits more than a few days? My factory tires don't seem to do it as much but with the winters it's pretty noticeable for the first few miles.

Yes. But it shouldn't be that big of a deal. After driving a few miles it should go away. Winters are more prone to this because of the compound and sipes. I'm currently on vredestein wintrac pros and they flat spot pretty good after a few days. But I really like these compared to blizzaks and other winter tires I have used in the past.. They're probably not as good in extreme winter conditions, but they're good enough in the snow. And they're much less squirmy than blizzaks and quieter.

[D-Rodman]

And just like that I’m out, selling all my Subarus and Subaru parts.
I purchased a 2017 IS300 AWD with 58,000 miles and clean record. Drove it a little over 1,000 miles back home to NY from South Carolina. 3.5 v6 with direct and port fuel injection.
Not going to modify anything, it is wonderful just as is.
I’m out.


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[deanstevenson]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

And just like that I’m out . . .

[SCRAPPYDO]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

And just like that I’m out, selling all my Subarus and Subaru parts.
I purchased a 2017 IS300 AWD with 58,000 miles and clean record. Drove it a little over 1,000 miles back home to NY from South Carolina. 3.5 v6 with direct and port fuel injection.
Not going to modify anything, it is wonderful just as is.
I’m out.


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congrats. Buying a car with the performance you want rather than modifying it to get the performance you want is always better and less headaches.

[D-Rodman]

Had the VB be direct and port injection equipped I would have likely purchased one. I test drove a friend’s with the cvt SPT transmission and actually liked it more than I had anticipated. It convinced me my next car would have paddle shifters instead of a gear rower. I just daily drive, no track nor racing for me, automatic transmission makes a lot of sense.


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[SoDealer]

age checks out

[KC]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

And just like that I’m out, selling all my Subarus and Subaru parts.
I purchased a 2017 IS300 AWD with 58,000 miles and clean record. Drove it a little over 1,000 miles back home to NY from South Carolina. 3.5 v6 with direct and port fuel injection.
Not going to modify anything, it is wonderful just as is.
I’m out.


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Just don't look at the underbody... Being in SC, I would have gone to FL or TX instea d for a non-rust car.

[fredzy]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

And just like that I’m out, selling all my Subarus and Subaru parts.
I purchased a 2017 IS300 AWD with 58,000 miles and clean record. Drove it a little over 1,000 miles back home to NY from South Carolina. 3.5 v6 with direct and port fuel injection.
Not going to modify anything, it is wonderful just as is.
I’m out.


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You look different from how I pictured you.

[D-Rodman]

I’m I bit less cyborg than you might have imagined.
I left nothing to chance, I had the car lifted and got video of the underside. I wasn’t going to travel 1000 miles for a car with rust like something I can by on the next zip code here. The devil knows more because he is old than because he is the devil.



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And I got myself an e-bike, a 48 1/2 pound carbon Levo because I’m old.

[Sid03SVT]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

And just like that I’m out, selling all my Subarus and Subaru parts.
I purchased a 2017 IS300 AWD with 58,000 miles and clean record. Drove it a little over 1,000 miles back home to NY from South Carolina. 3.5 v6 with direct and port fuel injection.
Not going to modify anything, it is wonderful just as is.
I’m out.

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Welcome to the dark side... err I should say light side; I've had my RWD IS350 F-sport for ~4.5 years at this point. Oil changes, air filters, and a front brake job so far, doing a rear brake job soon. The car just works, and is fine with me wringing it's neck every day; I drive it like a pissed off teenager on backroads & it just asks for more. I've had no issue driving through the past four New England winters I've owned it for.

It handled better out of the box than my 06 WRX wagon which had full suspension and 360TW 245s, once I put a square setup of 360TW 255s on the IS it only got better.

Since it's a Toyota, maintenance intervals are minimal, and it's easy to perform that maintenance, parts have Toyota prices as well. Stick with OEM Toyota/Lexus parts if you do your own maintenance; I'm pretty sure your calipers & rotors are the same as the F-sport cars, the difference being the factory option F-sport pads, which are really good for a street car, so I'd suggest them if/when you do a brake job (after verifying rotors & calipers are the same that is).

I did an oil change last weekend; drive up on ramps, drain oil from pan that is easily accessible, remove the three bolts & small panel in the front undertray to get at the filter housing, remove the aluminum filter housing, replace the element & gasket, close it all back up, add in the 6.6qts of oil (6.8 for you because AWD), drive it off the ramps & it's good to go. No oil dripping on the undertray, exhaust, sway bar, etc. during the change because everything is well thought out. No snaking your hands in between hot header/exhaust tubes to get at the filter like my MILs old Legacy.

-There is a filter wrench housing tool you'll need if you do your own maintenance, make sure you get an aluminum one & confirm it works with the Lexus 3.5L; most of them handle every Toyota engine from the 1.8L up to the 5.7L, I think mine was under $30 on Amazon. Air & Cabin air filter replacements are tool-less & quickly done/easily accessible.

It's a bit softer & more insulated than I'd like as it's a Lexus, but sometimes that is good thing, like when cruising around with passengers or on a longer highway drive.
The factory Bridgestones suck, when you replace them get something else, anything else.
Fuel economy isn't great, I'm getting ~19 average right now, but it's also a direct result of how I drive the car most of the time, in S+ w/TC & VSC disabled, pounding it around on backroads; I rarely cruise on the highway for any distance anymore since I WFH, and since the wife has a PHEV CUV now, that handles most of the family & all of the road trip stuff.

I went with the RWD model over the AWD model because I liked the 8spd better than the 6spd, I also prefer RWD to AWD in general. I'm sure you already know this, but the third gen IS300 is just a detuned IS350, the horsepower & torque dip at ~4,250 and is ~25hp /10tq lower than the IS350 all the way to redline; RR Racing offers a tune for IS300s if you're interested, it also bumps the Redline to 7,200 while increasing peak power over the IS350 stock numbers.
The rear bushings on the front LCA are soft, under very aggressive driving there is dynamic toe change, it's not a big deal for most people, I notice it, but I'm also on significantly stickier and wider front tires than stock, and I also beat mine mercilessly.

Originally Posted by KC

Just don't look at the underbody... Being in SC, I would have gone to FL or TX instea d for a non-rust car.

Most of the components under these cars are aluminum - front knuckles & hubs, rear UCAs, rear toe links, the entire front subframe/carrier is aluminum, etc. The rust inhibitors, coatings, paints etc. Lexus uses on the underside of the car are really good, so is the hardware. I've driven mine through the past New England winters, I run it through the touchless once a month or so, no rust issues, no issues with corrosion of bolts (for the one front brake job I did), rotors are coated at the hat and edges so those came off easy and wheels don't stick to them (when swapping sets seasonally).

Simply put, Lexus vehicles are designed, engineered & assembled with significantly higher standards than Subaru vehicles are.

[D-Rodman]

Originally Posted by Sid03SVT

Welcome to the dark side... err I should say light side; I've had my RWD IS350 F-sport for ~4.5 years at this point. Oil changes, air filters, and a front brake job so far, doing a rear brake job soon. The car just works, and is fine with me wringing it's neck every day; I drive it like a pissed off teenager on backroads & it just asks for more. I've had no issue driving through the past four New England winters I've owned it for.



It handled better out of the box than my 06 WRX wagon which had full suspension and 360TW 245s, once I put a square setup of 360TW 255s on the IS it only got better.



Since it's a Toyota, maintenance intervals are minimal, and it's easy to perform that maintenance, parts have Toyota prices as well. Stick with OEM Toyota/Lexus parts if you do your own maintenance; I'm pretty sure your calipers & rotors are the same as the F-sport cars, the difference being the factory option F-sport pads, which are really good for a street car, so I'd suggest them if/when you do a brake job (after verifying rotors & calipers are the same that is).



I did an oil change last weekend; drive up on ramps, drain oil from pan that is easily accessible, remove the three bolts & small panel in the front undertray to get at the filter housing, remove the aluminum filter housing, replace the element & gasket, close it all back up, add in the 6.6qts of oil (6.8 for you because AWD), drive it off the ramps & it's good to go. No oil dripping on the undertray, exhaust, sway bar, etc. during the change because everything is well thought out. No snaking your hands in between hot header/exhaust tubes to get at the filter like my MILs old Legacy.



-There is a filter wrench housing tool you'll need if you do your own maintenance, make sure you get an aluminum one & confirm it works with the Lexus 3.5L; most of them handle every Toyota engine from the 1.8L up to the 5.7L, I think mine was under $30 on Amazon. Air & Cabin air filter replacements are tool-less & quickly done/easily accessible.



It's a bit softer & more insulated than I'd like as it's a Lexus, but sometimes that is good thing, like when cruising around with passengers or on a longer highway drive.

The factory Bridgestones suck, when you replace them get something else, anything else.

Fuel economy isn't great, I'm getting ~19 average right now, but it's also a direct result of how I drive the car most of the time, in S+ w/TC & VSC disabled, pounding it around on backroads; I rarely cruise on the highway for any distance anymore since I WFH, and since the wife has a PHEV CUV now, that handles most of the family & all of the road trip stuff.



I went with the RWD model over the AWD model because I liked the 8spd better than the 6spd, I also prefer RWD to AWD in general. I'm sure you already know this, but the third gen IS300 is just a detuned IS350, the horsepower & torque dip at ~4,250 and is ~25hp /10tq lower than the IS350 all the way to redline; RR Racing offers a tune for IS300s if you're interested, it also bumps the Redline to 7,200 while increasing peak power over the IS350 stock numbers.

The rear bushings on the front LCA are soft, under very aggressive driving there is dynamic toe change, it's not a big deal for most people, I notice it, but I'm also on significantly stickier and wider front tires than stock, and I also beat mine mercilessly.







Most of the components under these cars are aluminum - front knuckles & hubs, rear UCAs, rear toe links, the entire front subframe/carrier is aluminum, etc. The rust inhibitors, coatings, paints etc. Lexus uses on the underside of the car are really good, so is the hardware. I've driven mine through the past New England winters, I run it through the touchless once a month or so, no rust issues, no issues with corrosion of bolts (for the one front brake job I did), rotors are coated at the hat and edges so those came off easy and wheels don't stick to them (when swapping sets seasonally).



Simply put, Lexus vehicles are designed, engineered & assembled with significantly higher standards than Subaru vehicles are.

Thank you very much.
I did a lot of research, the IS350 seems more desirable and holds value better than the 300 and 200T.
The 300 F sport does not have sport+ nor the adaptive struts. It has a sport tuned suspension and sport mode. Once I test drove an f sport 300 I realized it was everything I would ever need to be happy long term. The perfect fun and comfort balance I was looking for.
We have a 2011 Toyota Sienna with the same v6 engine and a 2017 CT200h that we purchased new. I’ve done all the routine maintenance with oem parts, the Toyota part guys know me as well as the Subaru part guys. I have all the tools and enjoy working on the cars. My car does have the same brakes as your 350, they feel amazing. I know about RR Racing but I just don’t feel like the car needs any more power for what I do. I put a set of weather tech floor liners and I’m waiting on the hitch mount to arrive, gotta have me a bike rack to perform all my needs. Otherwise I’m booking an appointment at Lexus to have the upcoming 60,000 mile service done. I’m going to change the spark plugs myself because the 60,000 mile service does not call for it but I’m a nut. I’ve driven it almost 1300 miles since I picked up Monday, I should have gotten an IS F sport a long time ago, it’s a freaking machine dude, feels like a new car and it’s 7 years old. My wife works 5 miles from home and her car only has a bit over 10,000 fewer miles than the car I just purchased, both cars are 2017 model year. I couldn’t be more pleased with my decision.


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[20WRX20]

What car did you get rid of in favor of the Lexus? Silver ftw.

[D-Rodman]

Originally Posted by 20WRX20

What car did you get rid of in favor of the Lexus? Silver ftw.

I sold a 2005 Saab 92x Aero (Saabaru wagon)

Will also be selling my beloved 2002 Subaru WRX sedan.