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Old 10-26-2012, 10:45 AM   #1651
M45
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just to be clear if I've never had my oil changed the oil in my car is from the factory correct?
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:52 AM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01

I've been using Amsoil OE 0W20, on a 5k mile change interval. No consumption.

What Amsoil do you get for under $5/quart, and how do you get that price? Are you a distributor?
I buy my oil straight from AMSOIL's website. All you have to do is pay $20 for a year membership and you can buy all the oil you want for a heavy discount. Of course you do also have to pay for shipping, but its not that bad. I get the 0W-20 OE oil for $4.70 per quart. With all the miles I drive and the frequently of which I change my oil, its well worth it to me. I think I may have paid $11 for shipping for a case of oil last time. I guess that makes it closer to $5.60 a quart but still a great price for AMSOIL.

Last edited by jr0bb5; 10-26-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:14 AM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M45 View Post
just to be clear if I've never had my oil changed the oil in my car is from the factory correct?
Only if you don't believe that aliens frequent your garage at night and change the oil in all your machines.

PS I've seen them do it, it isn't far fetched!
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:07 PM   #1654
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Yep, they come filled from the factory with 0w20 Idemitsu oil.
Since day one, I've questioned this choice by Subaru, as everything I was ever taught about engines breaking in and oil don't seem to be applied to these new *wonder engines*. At UTI in engine theory class, they drilled into our heads how stupid it is to try and break in an engine with lightweight fully synthetic oils. We were also taught that 0w oils suck and that they were too thin.
I put all that aside, being falsely confident in Japanese "engineers".
In the future, I'll follow what has worked well for me in the past and what I paid $20k to learn at UTI.
My 87 Ranger burns a lot of oil. But my uncle built the longblock, and he's legally blind.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:18 PM   #1655
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Quote:
At UTI in engine theory class, they drilled into our heads how stupid it is to try and break in an engine with lightweight fully synthetic oils. We were also taught that 0w oils suck and that they were too thin.
I'm more suspicious of your teachers than Subaru engineers.

0w is the cold weight, and even it is far too thick at startup.

If you meant w20 is too thin when hot, your teacher should be asking "For what engine, which tolerances and clearances, what journal diameter, what load, what RPM range?", but those are questions an engineer would ask. If he's the type that grew up on Detroit iron and hasn't read up on anything since, then no, he should not put Ow20 in his 70's Trans-Am. To make a blanket statement that Ow20 does not belong in any engine is absurd.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:44 PM   #1656
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UTI, that may be a disclaimer and not an attribute - education wise. Now having said that, some of their "chops" are not really all that bad - kind of like Phoenix University, they are all "pay to play".
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:20 PM   #1657
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probably been said already... but it could be something as simple as your gas cap not being tightened.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #1658
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Wow^^^!?? Ummm .... Wow

Back to the conversation.

Well the MMI instructors said the same. If you want to work for one of the major manufacturers, this is usually the only place to go. Idk why you guys seem to sort of want to rag on me for attending vocational school there for 18 months. I learmed a lot, and you're making a lot of assumptions about the instructors and curriculum.
The info they gave us was almost always real-world useful stuff, and they didn't cut any slack criticizing designs and manufacturers.
Like I said before, I was only stating that I followed guidelines for this car I had my doubts about based on a shat-ton of stuff I was taught. Its the first new engine I've ever broken in on full synthetic and the first time I've used 0w in anything. And everything that I was taught would happen seems to be happening. For me, it seems that 2+2=4.
Hopefully, there isn't horrible ring deterioration going on, and it was just too thin an oil for a tropical climate.
I pray to the car gods daily now that the oil consumption will be alleviated with thicker oil.
If my prayers are anwered, then I'll find an upholstry shop and have some major reworking of the front seats done and I'll be HAPPY to own and drive this car.
I'm trying to maintain optimism like Jrobb- no one understands like he does, we seem to have the same issues with our cars.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:45 PM   #1659
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Lmao ^
Brb... I better thighten my gas cap till it strips the plastic threads on the cap, maybe that'll alleiviate the oil loss.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:49 PM   #1660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
Lmao ^
Brb... I better thighten my gas cap till it strips the plastic threads on the cap, maybe that'll alleiviate the oil loss.
I wouldnt mock him.... he probably learned that at UTI
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #1661
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79, you do understand the 0w part is irrelevant once the engine warms up, right?
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #1662
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woops my bad. thought i read a check engine light.. not an oil light
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:21 PM   #1663
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Lol its quite alright, BoxerLover. In fact, it was a better suggestion than some that knew.
And yeah, Keen, I KNOW that. But who's to say it isn't burning more when its cold and that's where the consumption come from.
It was also like 12+ years ago that I was attending UTI/MMI. So 0w was way less common and we had all kinds of oils at school. Crazy grades I'd never imagined. I think there was a 0w10 or 15. Idk if that was stuff being commercially sold, but the oil/gas classroom education was lengthy and informative.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:31 PM   #1664
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Our engines warm up pretty quickly. If all or most of your consumption was happening when cold, I'd expect some blue smoke. Anyway, looks like you covered both bases with 5w30.

Ignoring consumption, from a protection/flow standpoint, 0wX is still way too thick when cold, but it's the best option available.

I was arguing against the "0w oils suck and that they were too thin." idea. I don't doubt that going thicker will help your consumption problem, though I'd still stay with a 0w. Why? Oil is easy to replace. Bearing shells are a bit more involved.

Last edited by Commander Keen; 10-26-2012 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:50 PM   #1665
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79letour, the fact that Subaru uses 0w20 and synthetic from the get-go doesn't mean that it is harming the engine. If that were the case we would ALL be having the same problem. While I am not criticizing your UTI education, I would tend to have more trust in the engineers at FHI that designed/built the engine rather than some generic comments that they had said to you many years ago. Keep in mind that new technology sometimes have new needs.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:03 PM   #1666
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They "needed" an extra mpg, and 0w20 isn't made with engine life in mind, its made to wring out an extra mpg.
After hearing from techs, service mgr's, dealer mgr's, soa, and the internet that there are lots of others with oil consumption issues makes me wonder if it isn't the low ring tension in conjunction with the low viscosity oil.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:25 PM   #1667
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Well since the oil consumption experience really appears to very fairly limited, the same few folks here and not many others joining them, I suspect the engineering and grade of oil has nothing to do with it.

Instead it is probably an engine build quality issue affecting less than 2% of the engines, something manufacturers of every car and truck have to contend with. Engine building isn't simple, there are a lot of parts, and a lot of potential for problems. But 98-99% build quality ain't bad.

But that is my interpretation of the evidence, and based upon the fact that my car does not consume any oil, and has had Amsoil 0W-20 OE oil in it over the last 6,000 miles, 1200 miles after I got the car (now about 7,200 miles on it!).
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:30 PM   #1668
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The w20 part probably does have a lot to do with economy, but I have a hard time believing Subaru would risk its reputation for longevity over an extra MPG.

My cars all get 0w synthetics, even those built well before 0w was available.

There's no need to speculate on any of this. An analysis will show wear metals. if 0w30 puts down better numbers in the FB20, I'll switch in a heartbeat.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:00 PM   #1669
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I have mentioned my oil light coming on around the 3,000 mile mark - had it changed at the dealership and told them about it and was told immediately they would do an oil consumption test if it happened after the change. It happened again and they are now doing the OC test and the service writer told me they are surprised at the complaints of the 2.0 burning oil. Their words to me is that it should definitely not consume oil between changes. I have a strong feeling their comments will change to reflect the corporate acceptance that 1 quart in 1200 miles is acceptable. At that time, I will do as I first suggested when I asked as a new Subie owner about the thicker oil and go with a 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic. Which I was told by forum members to use the "correct" 0w20 or risk failure (warning lamps). To see people project a 2% failure rate when this sites own poll shows a much higher percentage is what really makes me laugh. But, it is an opinion site so I take it as just that... By the way, you can't vote unless you have a certain amount of posts so a newbie with a new 2012 Imp may not even be able to post their results which in my case would cause the percentage to go even higher. Happy driving and check your oil regularly.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:08 PM   #1670
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Yeah, I have a hard time believing its only 2%.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #1671
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According to Zeeper, every oil burning 2012 impreza has voted in the poll or posted on this thread.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:21 PM   #1672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
The w20 part probably does have a lot to do with economy, but I have a hard time believing Subaru would risk its reputation for longevity over an extra MPG.

My cars all get 0w synthetics, even those built well before 0w was available.

There's no need to speculate on any of this. An analysis will show wear metals. if 0w30 puts down better numbers in the FB20, I'll switch in a heartbeat.
There are fines or penalties placed upon the market if they don't meet the minimum fleet numbers aren't there? So they probably did need the extra mpg or 2
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:34 PM   #1673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
According to Zeeper, every oil burning 2012 impreza has voted in the poll or posted on this thread.
I'd say someone whose car is burning oil is more likely to vote in that poll and post in this thread than someone who doesn't have a problem, so, if anything, that poll would be exaggerating the issue.

You're not going on the internet searching for information on your car's oil burning issues if your car doesn't burn oil. If your car IS burning oil, the internet is a logical place to look, and you're probably going to find this thread with a Google search.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:50 PM   #1674
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Still waiting to hear from those folks from Edmunds and John from Missouri Whitewater.
Most of them probably see the internet complaints. I don't see someone like my mother joining nasioc to complain. Not to mention all the folks who never even pop the hoods and let their dealers do it all. That would explain why several techs and service dept personnel tell me that 11' and up Foresters, and 2012 imprezas regularly come in low on oil.
Just because it didn't happen on nasioc doesn't mean it didn't happen.
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:00 PM   #1675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour
No- it sounds like you have problems big enough for soa not to ignore, though. Should get yours fixed or replaced.
Oh they've been ignoring it pretty well. They think its an electrical issue but I highly beg to differ.
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