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Old 10-22-2017, 08:51 AM   #26
chilakas
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
does it start to miss when it looses power or does it kinda just loose all grunt but still run smooth? do you have a tactrix to log with?
Yeah it feels like it starts to missfire, definitely not smooth. Right around 4.5k it starts it will never get past 6k. But like I said I'm not getting any codes at all, not even the flashing cel.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:59 AM   #27
chilakas
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Speed sensor hooked up?
Speed sensor on the transmission is connected and works fine since my mph guage works good. Unless your talking about a different sensor I don't know about
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Old 10-22-2017, 02:18 PM   #28
CarmelValleyWRX
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logging would help greatly here. otherwise we can only guess at whats going on.

if it were me i would log injector duty cycle, maf g/s, ignition timing, manifold pressure, wideband (since i have it and its really helpful) or in your case maybe front o2 might read something. the ignition timing, injector cycle, or air fuel ratio will probably go haywire at 6k.
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Old 10-22-2017, 02:24 PM   #29
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so I was rolling around 40 mph and put the car in neutral and I was able to go all the way to 7k rpm no problem.

So that throws out the 2 step being possibly the problem
did you try it in gear with clutch in?

do you have a carberry rom or a "tinywrx" patched rom?



BTW there is no clutch sensor that goes to the ecu from the factory on the 16 bit. both carberry and the patched rom use speed to decide when to exit 2 step. basically below 5mph(can be adjusted) the engine wont go past a set rpm. with the carberry tune you can wire in the upper clutch switch to an extra ecu pin for flat foot shifting only(no effect on 2step).
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:59 AM   #30
chilakas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
logging would help greatly here. otherwise we can only guess at whats going on.

if it were me i would log injector duty cycle, maf g/s, ignition timing, manifold pressure, wideband (since i have it and its really helpful) or in your case maybe front o2 might read something. the ignition timing, injector cycle, or air fuel ratio will probably go haywire at 6k.
Yeah I'm going to have to contact my tuner. Im sure he can data log all that. And see what i cant see. because like you said we are all just guessing now.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:21 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
did you try it in gear with clutch in?

do you have a carberry rom or a "tinywrx" patched rom?



BTW there is no clutch sensor that goes to the ecu from the factory on the 16 bit. both carberry and the patched rom use speed to decide when to exit 2 step. basically below 5mph(can be adjusted) the engine wont go past a set rpm. with the carberry tune you can wire in the upper clutch switch to an extra ecu pin for flat foot shifting only(no effect on 2step).
I have tried it in gear with the clutch in, but I think I have only tried it in first gear from a dead stop, with my foot all the way to the floor on the gas pedal the rpm was limited to around 5.5k rpm I believe. Basically like it's supposed to. With 2 step.

I don't know if it's carberry or patched that is something my tuner would know.

As far as what I call clutch sensors, I'm talking about the switches that are mounted on the left hand side of the entire pedal assembly, 2 of them, one above the other, white and blue connector, I just know that the top one is the clutch safety switch, which basically let's ecu know That you have pressed the clutch pedal and that the car can be started. The bottom one let's the ecu know that you have depressed the clutch pedal and I believe it is for the cruise control. But anyways someone here commented that since my safety switch was bypassed, that maybe the ecu was not allowing the car to get past a certain rpm, because it thought I still had the clutch pressed in. But it's not the case because I got rid of the bypass and the only difference now is that I have to press the clutch in to start the car, but the car still runs the same.
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Old 10-25-2017, 09:05 AM   #32
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So I talked to my tuner and he said it might be a wiring issue or the ecu.

Another crazy thing is that my friend who lent me his maf to swap, called me and tells me that he thinks my car blew his maf sensor because now his car won't run unless he leaves it unplugged.

My tuner had me unplug my maf, start the car and take it for a spin, go wide open throttle and see what happens. After doing this my car ran exactly the same. So I thought ok well it is not the maf. But now I'm confused.
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Old 10-25-2017, 09:27 PM   #33
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the clutch switches never reach the ECU. one goes right into the cruise control unit and the other is part of the circuit for the starter. BUT... you can wire in the upper switch on the carberry rom so you can shift without lifting off the gas.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:17 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
the clutch switches never reach the ECU. one goes right into the cruise control unit and the other is part of the circuit for the starter. BUT... you can wire in the upper switch on the carberry rom so you can shift without lifting off the gas.
Ok got you,

we'll now I'm I think there is an issue with my wiring because I fried my friends maf I guess, when I installed it in my car, to see if that is my problem, now I have 2 cars that have a problem. This problem is like a virus.

He put a new maf and it's still running bad, now we are thinking after installing his maf on mine and putting it back on his, we messed something in his wiring. Crazy! This is crazy!
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Old 10-26-2017, 06:36 PM   #35
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Hey not reading every response but are you sure the clutch is engaging and disengaging like it is supposed to? Can you put the car in neutral and rev past 5.5k? If it will you want want to look at the tension on the clutch cable. just 2cents
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:54 PM   #36
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if it runs the same with maf unplugged its not your problem here (does not mean the MAF is any good... its a good idea to change the maf at around 100k miles. ) i highly doubt your car blew up the maf sensor. now... if you guys cleaned the sensors wrong that could easily kill it. or running an oiled filter will screw it up big time.

you gotta start looking deeper at things like cam timing and fuel system. what makes you think its getting enough fuel unless you have a wideband 02 sensor to verify AFR?

does it go all the way to redline if you give it only half throttle or so?
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:28 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
if it runs the same with maf unplugged its not your problem here (does not mean the MAF is any good... its a good idea to change the maf at around 100k miles. ) i highly doubt your car blew up the maf sensor. now... if you guys cleaned the sensors wrong that could easily kill it. or running an oiled filter will screw it up big time.

you gotta start looking deeper at things like cam timing and fuel system. what makes you think its getting enough fuel unless you have a wideband 02 sensor to verify AFR?

does it go all the way to redline if you give it only half throttle or so?
We have not cleaned the sensors at all just swapped into my car and put it back on his. Anyways I thought that was strange that my car could possibly blow his sensor, now it's even stranger to me that his car still runs bad after replacing the sensor.

The reason why I believe that it's getting enough fuel is because I have a fuel pressure guage attached and it reads all the way up to 63 psi under wot, the other reason is I have a obd2 scanner and my fuel trims seem good not running leaning or rich as I'm driving the car. Under WOT the short term fuel trim is at 0% Which I think means that the car is not asking for more fuel or Taking away fuel.

I'm going to try to give it half throttle and see if I can rev all the way to redline, from what i can tell is that i can only redline if im in neutral and the clutch depressed.

what is this little test going to tell me?
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:38 AM   #38
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Hey not reading every response but are you sure the clutch is engaging and disengaging like it is supposed to? Can you put the car in neutral and rev past 5.5k? If it will you want want to look at the tension on the clutch cable. just 2cents
I honestly have been thinking of that possibility as well,

I had a hard time bleeding the clutch slave cylinder, and I had to mess with the clutch pedal adjustment. But the car seems to engage, what I have noticed is that there is allot of clutch shatter.

My car is hydraulic clutch assembly so it's not cable.

Yes I can go to redline in neutral for sure just not in gear.
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Old 10-27-2017, 04:11 PM   #39
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Whats the condition of your throttle cable (from pedal to throttle body). Is it kinked in any way, possibly not allowing the throttle body to fully open?
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Old 10-27-2017, 05:47 PM   #40
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Whats the condition of your throttle cable (from pedal to throttle body). Is it kinked in any way, possibly not allowing the throttle body to fully open?
It looks ok, when I am at WOT according to my live data my throttle position sensor reads 100%,
So I think it's good, it looks good not kinked or anything
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:09 PM   #41
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so are you hitting target boost when trying to rev past 5.5k?
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:49 PM   #42
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does the pressure stay up to 63 when the problem happens? BTW fuel trims dont mean much under WOT. for example if a fuel pump was bad or a filter clogged, it would still run fine under low load and thus the fuel trims would be fine, even though it would run out of fuel at high loads. reason being is that fuel trims only happen in "closed loop". but it sounds like your fuel system is verified up to the fuel rail at least which is good.

have you changed the spark plugs out and verified the cam timing is correct?
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:08 PM   #43
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[quote=CarmelValleyWRX;45394974]does the pressure stay up to 63 when the problem happens? BTW fuel trims dont mean much under WOT. for example if a fuel pump was bad or a filter clogged, it would still run fine under low load and thus the fuel trims would be fine, even though it would run out of fuel at high loads. reason being is that fuel trims only happen in "closed loop". but it sounds like your fuel system is verified up to the fuel rail at least which is good.

have you changed the spark plugs out and verified the cam timing

I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, but I have not checked the cam timing.
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:15 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
does the pressure stay up to 63 when the problem happens? BTW fuel trims dont mean much under WOT. for example if a fuel pump was bad or a filter clogged, it would still run fine under low load and thus the fuel trims would be fine, even though it would run out of fuel at high loads. reason being is that fuel trims only happen in "closed loop". but it sounds like your fuel system is verified up to the fuel rail at least which is good.

have you changed the spark plugs out and verified the cam timing is correct?
The pressure does stay at 63 at WOT

The reason why I think my fuel system is ok is because I look at my short term fuel trim when I got my foot all the way to floor on the gas pedal. The short term fuel trim says 0% so I'm assuming the car is not asking for any fuel. Atleast that's how I thought you interpret fuel trim readings.

the spark plugs and coil packs are new

I have not checked the cam timing
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:19 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by aberger19707 View Post
so are you hitting target boost when trying to rev past 5.5k?
I am looking for a boost guage so I can verify the boost is ok but I have a boost control timer and it reads boost in hkpa, and last time I drove it I was getting plenty of boost. But I want to verify that with an actual psi guage, which I had but I misplaced and I can't find.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:11 PM   #46
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under boosting wont stop the engine from revving all the way up, it will just take longer because it will have less power.

when you go WOT fuel trim adjustments no longer take place because the engine goes into "open loop" which means it just calculates the fuel needed and hopes it works out. the oxygen sensor is not used to adjust fuel at that point.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:58 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
does the pressure stay up to 63 when the problem happens? BTW fuel trims dont mean much under WOT. for example if a fuel pump was bad or a filter clogged, it would still run fine under low load and thus the fuel trims would be fine, even though it would run out of fuel at high loads. reason being is that fuel trims only happen in "closed loop". but it sounds like your fuel system is verified up to the fuel rail at least which is good.

have you changed the spark plugs out and verified the cam timing is correct?
So today I checked my timing and it looks like I'm all lined up except for the one on the top right ( if you are standing in front of the car ). I seem to be off by a tooth, but to be honest I think I have been lined up like that for a while and the car had no performance issues. Last time I did the timing belt, I remember that I could not perfectly line up that cam gear perfectly with the mark on the back timing cover. I tried and tried and that was the best I could get it. Could this cause the motor to burn oil? I don't think so but my car has been burning oil for a while, I wonder if this is why. Car runs well but yeah it does burn oil.

the other issue I found is (behind the top right cam gear) there is magnetic sensor, looks like the cam position sensor, I took it out to clean and the wires going to the connector just completely broke off, I'm thinking maybe this is the problem, the wires were not making a connection with that sensor. Wires were so brittle they just broke off.
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:38 PM   #48
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ended up being a stuck tgv. I took out the tgv sensor to fix something and noticed it was not spring loaded. So i must have just put it in wrong because i did have to remove it. I put it back I put it in the right way. ( the connector part facing up 12 a clock and than turning right 3 a clock to line up the holes for the bolts)

Took the car for a spin and the car ran much better but would still hesitate around 6k. After driving for a few weeks today I decided to go wot and to my fortune it pulled hard all the way, I am assuming that ecu had to relearn something with that tgv sensor.
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