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Old 01-30-2010, 11:18 PM   #276
Mechie3
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Nice solution for the 07 owners you found there!
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:34 AM   #277
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Wow. You really went at that thing eh? I had this thought before, but never got around to it.

I was thinking it might be easier to buy a new barometric pressure sensor and wire it in place of the valve.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:28 AM   #278
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Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
Got my hands on the 06 WRX wiring diagram and it says that there is an integrated pressure sensor on one of the valves. Not sure off hand which one (look it up later) but my car has run fine without it for almost a year. I'm also trying to trace all of the grounds so I can cut them off the harness and reground them.
i think the pressure sensor is on the valve just under the intake manfoid
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:29 AM   #279
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Originally Posted by Quick View Post
Wow. You really went at that thing eh? I had this thought before, but never got around to it.

I was thinking it might be easier to buy a new barometric pressure sensor and wire it in place of the valve.
i don't know if it's really possible , you will need to change all the valve. and they are expensives
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:52 PM   #280
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Hello everybody i would like to delete all the air pump system but i have TWO valves on my sti, so i just need to know all the codes cells to delete, to gave them to a tuner
could you please send me the list of all the cell to delete? after this conversion?
many thanks
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:48 AM   #281
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read the thread
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:49 AM   #282
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Im going to delete the pump on a friends car. Dealership has replaced the pump a few times now.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:01 PM   #283
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I'm pretty sure we can wire in a 108kpa Baro sensor in place of the valve on the driver's side. Anyone have the pinout for the valve?
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Old 02-27-2010, 11:19 PM   #284
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I installed the block-off plates this weekend myself. Without this thread I would have had more 'fun' doing so.

The driver's side secondary valve had water in it (found this out after the valve had sat on the bench overnight and warmed up a bit). I had no codes but for the past few months since winter set in, and with increasing frequency, I was getting an exhaust rumble feedback into the air-feed system.

Because of the water the valve would open but not close after the air-pump cycled for the 30 or so seconds it was supposed to after start-up. It would after a few more minutes of either letting the car warm up further or driving it, eventually close.

As with others I did essentially the same thing.

The air-pump is easily disconnected and removed.

The driver's side secondary valve (once TMIC is removed) and air-feed tube are both relatively easy to remove. I obtained a set of block-off plates from Cosworth USA and a set of OEM gaskets from the dealer.

The passenger's side secondary valve and air-feed tube are not easy to work on. The valve is located next to the driver's side valve and is tucked half-way under the intake manifold. The air-feed tube is also snaked along the top of the engine block under hoses and wires.

To access the bolts to the air-feed tube on the passenger's side head you do have to remove the downpipe and the uppipe. Luckily the uppipe can be removed in its entirety without having to remove the header collector or jacking up the engine. I also highly recommend getting new OEM gaskets when reinstalling the exhaust pipes. Also use anti-seize on the bolts as well.

Instead of trying to get the entire air-feed tube out, which would have been more work, I left it in place. I used a hack-saw blade that I cut in half to cut the head off the air-feed tube. As previously stated by others you have to watch that you do not cut into the power-steering line or the turbo oil-feed line.

After the car was back together, it started and ran without any problems what-so-ever. I of course had a CEL and the cruise-control indicator lamp flashing.

I took the car up to my tuner and he simply took my Accessport and downloaded my original map he previously created from my original tune. He created a new map for me that omits the air-feed system. No CEL and the car runs like a champ.

Honestly, I did not know if either secondary valve was actually failing. I took an educated guess using this post in part as a guide. I was correct in doing so. No more exhaust feed-back noise and overall the car is a bit more quiet. My feeling is that the valve never fully closed. Regardless, it's out.

When I eventually get around to servicing the intake manifold and TGV's, that's when I will remove the passenger's side secondary valve and air-feed tube.

Plan on spending a good part of the day doing this install.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:28 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
I spoke to Rob at AMR this past weekend, and he consulted me on the whole "Air pump delete mod". His point of view is that the air pump helps "near stock or stg2 w/o protune" WRX/STI save hp by electrically creating vacuum when using the a/c and such. Other vehicles without the Air pump requires the motor to create mechanical vacuum pressure when using the a/c and would cause about a 5hp loss. But with all the BS aside, Rob stated if you are going to do the delete, it would be best to remove the whole assembly (not leaving the valve hanging there). He has REMOVED and TUNED many Subaru's with the whole assembly removed with no issues.
Hmmm... 'There ain't no such thing in life as a free lunch.' Whether electrically via the alternator (which then pulls power from the engine because of electromagnetic resistance) or mechanically and i.e. straight from the crank, the power loss is the same. Its the first law of thermodyamics. . . . 5hp is 5hp, be it from the crank driving an alternator that is driving a 5hp electric motor (our air pumps don't look to be the size that need 5hp to do its job!! So I'm a little skeptical about that 5hp figure), or from the crank driving a mechanical 5hp vacuum.

In fact there will be more power loss using the air pump because the closed loop system is not 100% efficient. . . Engine drives the alternator which then drives the air pump. . . There's 2 couplings in that loop that are not 100% efficient: 1) engine coupled to the alternator 2) alternator coupled to the air pump

I'm doing surgery on my car soon when I drop in my newest turbo and I remember how much clutter there is under the IM from my first turbo swap and I'm estimating the issues with removing the air valve on the passenger side next to the turbo inlet. But today I found that Subie put the sensor in that very valve I want to take off. Aye carumba, and damn you to hell Subaru!!
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:18 PM   #286
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Do the block off plates really make a good seal?

I would think you need some kind of gasket for them. Plus, if I understand correctly, the valve for this system is part of what gets removed, which means exhaust wants to escape from these "blocked off" holes. That's a leak before a sensor.

Also... assumings the holes do get a tight seal, why would the car need a retune if this is the only mod? Or does the tune remove the air pump factor (which is usually not on)
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:21 PM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
Do the block off plates really make a good seal?

I would think you need some kind of gasket for them. Plus, if I understand correctly, the valve for this system is part of what gets removed, which means exhaust wants to escape from these "blocked off" holes. That's a leak before a sensor.

Also... assumings the holes do get a tight seal, why would the car need a retune if this is the only mod? Or does the tune remove the air pump factor (which is usually not on)
I think you need to re-read this thread from the beginning. You use OEM crush gaskets along with the block off plates. The "tune" is to get rid of the million CEL lights you get when you remove the air system.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:28 PM   #288
slava from goshen
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I'll rephrase my post.

On 07 STI I removed the entire air pump system. I will get a blocking plate and the car will be tuned opensource or with cobb op. will I be having issuies?
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:27 AM   #289
Frank A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scramjett View Post
Hmmm... 'There ain't no such thing in life as a free lunch.' Whether electrically via the alternator (which then pulls power from the engine because of electromagnetic resistance) or mechanically and i.e. straight from the crank, the power loss is the same. Its the first law of thermodyamics. . . . 5hp is 5hp, be it from the crank driving an alternator that is driving a 5hp electric motor (our air pumps don't look to be the size that need 5hp to do its job!! So I'm a little skeptical about that 5hp figure), or from the crank driving a mechanical 5hp vacuum.

In fact there will be more power loss using the air pump because the closed loop system is not 100% efficient. . . Engine drives the alternator which then drives the air pump. . . There's 2 couplings in that loop that are not 100% efficient: 1) engine coupled to the alternator 2) alternator coupled to the air pump

I'm doing surgery on my car soon when I drop in my newest turbo and I remember how much clutter there is under the IM from my first turbo swap and I'm estimating the issues with removing the air valve on the passenger side next to the turbo inlet. But today I found that Subie put the sensor in that very valve I want to take off. Aye carumba, and damn you to hell Subaru!!
While I don't agree with AMR's comments that the air pump on the subaru is worth 5 hp, it is worth repeating that race and high performance cars do use air pumps to vent crankcase pressure. Case in point is the new Ferrari 458 Italia engine. There must be a weight/power gain switchover point for these systems, but I'm sure the engineering is a little too intense for us amateurs to figure out where the benefits outweigh the system weight and alternator load. Reminds me, I need to get a smaller (lower load) alternator...

Nice work by Bariga on cutting out the sensor. Looks like I'll be doing that to my '08 STI.

Frank
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:40 AM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank A View Post
While I don't agree with AMR's comments that the air pump on the subaru is worth 5 hp, it is worth repeating that race and high performance cars do use air pumps to vent crankcase pressure. Case in point is the new Ferrari 458 Italia engine. There must be a weight/power gain switchover point for these systems, but I'm sure the engineering is a little too intense for us amateurs to figure out where the benefits outweigh the system weight and alternator load. Reminds me, I need to get a smaller (lower load) alternator...

Nice work by Bariga on cutting out the sensor. Looks like I'll be doing that to my '08 STI.

Frank
Considering the pump runs ONLY at startup (at least on my 06), I highly doubt they are used in the same fashion on a Subaru as they are on a Ferrari. And the 5 HP thing is BS.
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:50 AM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
looks like no one has balls to do it, so i did it.






After i open it up i realize it was not necessary to cut anything, you can do it from top with sharp knife just cut and you set! Make sure you heat up the top of it for easy cutting!
this is what im going to do,so the sensor is just the small piece there?
i tried to pry it off the housing but no luck.
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:04 PM   #292
Bariga
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take a sharp knife and cut it off the metal housing.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:18 PM   #293
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Think I'll be doing this to my 09 STI. but where is the air pump, I haven't take a great look, but I know it's not in the place of the 07 and priors.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:19 PM   #294
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Originally Posted by u2_m4r1n3 View Post
Think I'll be doing this to my 09 STI. but where is the air pump, I haven't take a great look, but I know it's not in the place of the 07 and priors.
On the front of the motor, to the right of the alternator.

Take pics if you do it on your 09. I'm considering doing it on mine as well.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:33 PM   #295
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Originally Posted by Quick View Post
On the front of the motor, to the right of the alternator.

Take pics if you do it on your 09. I'm considering doing it on mine as well.
Yeah, I took closer look, it has a few more bits on it than the older models. I probably won't do mine for a while, mainly because its pointless right now, being that I'll be leaving for a few months for work.

But... If I happen to have alone time on my short vacation coming up, I'll probably do it.. lol. Then just go to crawford and have them fix my map to cut out those CELs.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:52 AM   #296
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Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
Can the Cobb AP turn the CEL off (from the air pump removed)??
Yes it can all you need is RaceTuner with the Access port that is download-able from Cobbs site! You need to make an application for it but you can edit your own maps to not include this code!
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #297
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Stupid question:
The guy who is about to do my clutch is suggesting I remove this air pump etc. now ( while working on clutch) because "if" it fails it will be hugely expensive to work on it then. The Air pump works fine. Not sure about the failure rate of these things...
Would it work just as well to turn off all the poteintal cells and leave the whole works in place?

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:55 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnRS View Post
Stupid question:
The guy who is about to do my clutch is suggesting I remove this air pump etc. now ( while working on clutch) because "if" it fails it will be hugely expensive to work on it then. The Air pump works fine. Not sure about the failure rate of these things...
Would it work just as well to turn off all the poteintal cells and leave the whole works in place?

Thanks
Failure rate? High
Relationship to clutch job? Low
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:53 AM   #299
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Okay, so if the air pump dies. Can the cells just be canceled and call it a day, without having to remove everything (pump, solenoids...)?

The relation to the clutch: He says he is down there anyway so this would be a good time to remove the airpump etc.

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:34 PM   #300
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On your car, there are three components that can go bad - the pump and two valves. If the pump craps out or a valve is stuck closed - no problem, disable that CEL and keep on truckin.

However, if a valves sticks open or leaks, you're SOL.

If you do have him remove the system, make sure he leaves the valve with the pressure sensor plugged in. I removed all the piping to the valve, but left it in place.

DO NOT have him just remove the pump.
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