How To: DIY TGV Deletes - Page 4

soobaviator · 10-08-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinplay01

I used a long rotozip blade on full speed to take out the large chunks. It took about 5 minutes per side, but then I spent forever with the tiny dremel 80 grit sanding barrel turds.

I am going to use a special blend of sand and elmers glue to block the shaft holes.

Seriously?! Sand? Elmers glue?

Suggest that if you are not welding them use JB weld to plug the openings. Better yet mix the JB weld with fine aluminum shavings or powder to help keep the expansion rates close so the plugs don't fall out after repeated temp cycles.

-soobaviator

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Chi_San · 10-08-2009, 08:13 PM

lol Sand and elmers glue... I just bought a tap ($5) from Napa, and 4 bolts, some Red locktite. I tapped the threads, put the bolts in, used the locktite to mark where i needed to cut the bolts, pulled them out, cut them to approximate length outside of the housings, locktited them, put them in, then ground them flush with the housings using my dremel.

I had a machine shop get the aluminum seperators out of the housings for me because I could not get them out, I did not have a die grinder, hack saw was taking too long, and my dremel kept eating bits. Cost me $20 for "rough material removal", then an 80 grit sanding drum took care of the rest.

Aaron'z 2.5RS · 10-08-2009, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinplay01

I used a long rotozip blade on full speed to take out the large chunks. It took about 5 minutes per side, but then I spent forever with the tiny dremel 80 grit sanding barrel turds.

I am going to use a special blend of sand and elmers glue to block the shaft holes.

Dude, that's like, the best idea ever....!!!!!!!!!

Let us know how it goes, with heat and fuel/oil exposure...!!!

spinplay01 · 10-08-2009, 09:26 PM

So should I stay away from the sand and childrens glue?

My other thought was to make little balls using steel shavings from the brake lathe, and small slivers of magnesium. I could hold it all together with aluminum epoxy. Then just super glue them into the holes. That should hold for a little while.

I am sure turbos catalytic converters love thermite. I could have little balls of fire flying out the exhaust.

Chi_San · 10-08-2009, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinplay01

So should I stay away from the sand and childrens glue?

My other thought was to make little balls using steel shavings from the brake lathe, and small slivers of magnesium. I could hold it all together with aluminum epoxy. Then just super glue them into the holes. That should hold for a little while.

I am sure turbos catalytic converters love thermite. I could have little balls of fire flying out the exhaust.

What's wrong with a tap, 4 bolts, and thread lock? seriously? It'll take half the time, seals fine, and you don't have to be a freaking Alchemist to make it work.

spinplay01 · 10-08-2009, 10:58 PM

Haha. A tap, bolts, and locktite sounds like it would work just fine. I was just having fun there, playing on the aluminum shavings and epoxy idea. I personally wouldn't trust epoxy to hold a third graders ****ty drawing to a freezer door. I already welded my holes using argon mig and 18 gauge wire and sanded with 80 grit.....the closest to right way I can think of(if there is one). Thanks for the concern guys.

cheerio

666stars · 10-09-2009, 02:20 PM

i did mine by mig welding the holes and then smoothing the welds with a dremel

Chi_San · 10-09-2009, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinplay01

Haha. A tap, bolts, and locktite sounds like it would work just fine. I was just having fun there, playing on the aluminum shavings and epoxy idea. I personally wouldn't trust epoxy to hold a third graders ****ty drawing to a freezer door. I already welded my holes using argon mig and 18 gauge wire and sanded with 80 grit.....the closest to right way I can think of(if there is one). Thanks for the concern guys.

cheerio

Yep, working fine for me.

No leaks, or anything. I really goobered on the thread lock though. Was going to let the welding shop have fun with them if there were any little leaks... I do have a leak, but it's the PCV valve.

dan az · 10-09-2009, 11:01 PM

i used allen head bolts and jb weld, physically imposible for them to get ingested, cost about 10 bucks

Unrealgtx · 11-26-2009, 03:28 AM

lmao "sand and elmers glue"!

icudruln · 03-27-2010, 01:17 PM

So it looks like you for sure have to fill the holes in the TGV's? And the easiest/most common way is the Allen Bolts & JB Weld for the holes inside the actual TGV housing? And the same for where the motors go?

hauntedwrx · 08-20-2010, 03:01 PM

Just started my set of these, going to have the holes welded so I won't have to worry to much about leaks or stuff coming out and going into my motor...

2slofouru · 10-05-2010, 08:22 PM

Is it true you can connect the tgv sensors to the motors externally, to fool the ecu? Thought I'd read that somewhere.

hauntedwrx · 10-05-2010, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2slofouru

Is it true you can connect the tgv sensors to the motors externally, to fool the ecu? Thought I'd read that somewhere.

Just remove everything and be done with it. You can just remove the butterflies and leave the motors and rods in, but that isn't really worth all the effort you are going to put into it in my personal opinion.

MENU · 10-05-2010, 11:33 PM

No tgv's + <45 degree weather + e85 = an unhappy coldstarting engine lol sounds like it has 280 cams

2slofouru · 10-06-2010, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hauntedwrx

Just remove everything and be done with it. You can just remove the butterflies and leave the motors and rods in, but that isn't really worth all the effort you are going to put into it in my personal opinion.

I'm not talking about leaving the rods in. I'm referring to taking the sensor and the motor and connecting them seperately so they still function.. without being connected to the rods.

Jackie leggs · 12-03-2010, 12:46 AM

I'm debating doing the deletes in a couple weeks. I plan to go in the route of gutting the tgv's but leaving the rods in. I'm doing this because the closets tuner to me is about 3 hours away, and really don't wanna trailer my car to the place.
Currently my car has
-intake
-turbo inlet
-GS EBCS
-catless up pipe
-catless turbo back
-stg 2 tune at 17psi
My question is, will I notice a difference with still having my stock turbo and be safe tune wise or do I really need to get my tune edited a little?
thanks, Jack

GrimmSpeed · 12-03-2010, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackie leggs

I'm debating doing the deletes in a couple weeks. I plan to go in the route of gutting the tgv's but leaving the rods in. I'm doing this because the closets tuner to me is about 3 hours away, and really don't wanna trailer my car to the place.
Currently my car has
-intake
-turbo inlet
-GS EBCS
-catless up pipe
-catless turbo back
-stg 2 tune at 17psi
My question is, will I notice a difference with still having my stock turbo and be safe tune wise or do I really need to get my tune edited a little?
thanks, Jack

Hey just wanted to chime in and help out. You will be OK as far as the tune goes once the codes are gone but ideally to get anything out of doing this mod you would get a tune for it. Generally doing another mod at the same time to help offset the tune cost is a good idea if possible. If you can though removing the rods does help with airflow.

Will

Sti Novitiate907 · 02-22-2011, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinplay01

So should I stay away from the sand and childrens glue?

My other thought was to make little balls using steel shavings from the brake lathe, and small slivers of magnesium. I could hold it all together with aluminum epoxy. Then just super glue them into the holes. That should hold for a little while.

I am sure turbos catalytic converters love thermite. I could have little balls of fire flying out the exhaust.

Helpful post, made me lol bad

Fierysun · 03-01-2011, 08:48 PM

What's the ideal method for plugging up the holes?

68Cadillac · 03-01-2011, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fierysun

What's the ideal method for plugging up the holes?

GTAW them up. (aka TIG weld)

My plan is to go with threaded aluminum rod locked in place with JB weld/aluminum dust slurry.

Fierysun · 03-01-2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68Cadillac

GTAW them up. (aka TIG weld)

My plan is to go with threaded aluminum rod locked in place with JB weld/aluminum dust slurry.

Do you know the correct size aluminum rod to use?

soobaviator · 03-01-2011, 11:22 PM

8 mm however 5/16 works just fine

bobkat · 05-31-2011, 01:57 PM

thanks to this thead, helped me do my TGV deletes. then I decided to also paint match them to my intake manifold.

TS7XREX · 10-24-2011, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobkat

thanks to this thead, helped me do my TGV deletes. then I decided to also paint match them to my intake manifold.

Looks great! Installed pics?

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
How-To: DIY aftermarket Downpipe CEL fix	WorldRallyX05	Service & Maintenance	52	05-14-2010 07:04 PM
anyone know how to do diy tgv deletes?	harrisont	Southern California Impreza Club Forum -- SCIC	20	05-06-2010 03:53 AM
How To: DIY Radiator Cooling Panel	StretchSTI	Interior & Exterior Modification	28	10-29-2007 04:06 PM
How To: DIY Angled Licence Plate	StretchSTI	Interior & Exterior Modification	29	10-18-2007 04:41 PM
DIY TGV Delete	yzblazr	Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo)	6	10-24-2006 08:42 AM

10-08-2009, 08:13 PM	#77
Chi_San Scooby Guru Member#: 53558 Join Date: Jan 2004 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Deadford, OR Vehicle: 2005 Baja Turbo White/Silver/Black 3tone	lol Sand and elmers glue... I just bought a tap ($5) from Napa, and 4 bolts, some Red locktite. I tapped the threads, put the bolts in, used the locktite to mark where i needed to cut the bolts, pulled them out, cut them to approximate length outside of the housings, locktited them, put them in, then ground them flush with the housings using my dremel. I had a machine shop get the aluminum seperators out of the housings for me because I could not get them out, I did not have a die grinder, hack saw was taking too long, and my dremel kept eating bits. Cost me $20 for "rough material removal", then an 80 grit sanding drum took care of the rest.

10-08-2009, 09:26 PM	#79
spinplay01 Scooby Newbie Member#: 141787 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: ghetto island of oahu Vehicle: 2004 wrx black	So should I stay away from the sand and childrens glue? My other thought was to make little balls using steel shavings from the brake lathe, and small slivers of magnesium. I could hold it all together with aluminum epoxy. Then just super glue them into the holes. That should hold for a little while. I am sure turbos catalytic converters love thermite. I could have little balls of fire flying out the exhaust.

10-08-2009, 10:58 PM	#81
spinplay01 Scooby Newbie Member#: 141787 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: ghetto island of oahu Vehicle: 2004 wrx black	Haha. A tap, bolts, and locktite sounds like it would work just fine. I was just having fun there, playing on the aluminum shavings and epoxy idea. I personally wouldn't trust epoxy to hold a third graders ****ty drawing to a freezer door. I already welded my holes using argon mig and 18 gauge wire and sanded with 80 grit.....the closest to right way I can think of(if there is one). Thanks for the concern guys. cheerio

10-09-2009, 02:20 PM	#82
666stars Scooby Specialist Member#: 221364 Join Date: Aug 2009 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Baltimore Vehicle: 2002 Wrx EJ207 Ver 8 Wrb Dccd jdm 6 speed now!	i did mine by mig welding the holes and then smoothing the welds with a dremel

10-09-2009, 11:01 PM	#84
dan az Scooby Specialist Member#: 120355 Join Date: Jul 2006 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: prescott valley, az Vehicle: 2004 wrx wagon 2.5 20g-xt, super slow	i used allen head bolts and jb weld, physically imposible for them to get ingested, cost about 10 bucks

11-26-2009, 03:28 AM	#85
Unrealgtx Scooby Specialist Member#: 178853 Join Date: Apr 2008 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: SoCal Vehicle: 2001 2.5RS RBP	lmao "sand and elmers glue"!

03-27-2010, 01:17 PM	#86
icudruln Scooby Newbie Member#: 197060 Join Date: Dec 2008 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Denver Vehicle: 2004 STi WRB	So it looks like you for sure have to fill the holes in the TGV's? And the easiest/most common way is the Allen Bolts & JB Weld for the holes inside the actual TGV housing? And the same for where the motors go?

08-20-2010, 03:01 PM	#87
hauntedwrx Scooby Newbie Member#: 115104 Join Date: May 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Ohio Vehicle: 2003 WRX Sedona Red Pearl	Just started my set of these, going to have the holes welded so I won't have to worry to much about leaks or stuff coming out and going into my motor...

10-05-2010, 08:22 PM	#88
2slofouru Scooby Guru Member#: 90539 Join Date: Jul 2005 Chapter/Region: South East Location: SWLA Vehicle: My BOV goes COVFEFE!	Is it true you can connect the tgv sensors to the motors externally, to fool the ecu? Thought I'd read that somewhere.

10-05-2010, 11:33 PM	#90
MENU Scooby Specialist Member#: 208002 Join Date: Apr 2009 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Greenville, Wi Vehicle: 2004 STI	No tgv's + <45 degree weather + e85 = an unhappy coldstarting engine lol sounds like it has 280 cams

12-03-2010, 12:46 AM	#92
Jackie leggs Scooby Specialist Member#: 249794 Join Date: Jun 2010 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Huntington, WV Vehicle: 02 WRX wagon atomic orange pearl	I'm debating doing the deletes in a couple weeks. I plan to go in the route of gutting the tgv's but leaving the rods in. I'm doing this because the closets tuner to me is about 3 hours away, and really don't wanna trailer my car to the place. Currently my car has -intake -turbo inlet -GS EBCS -catless up pipe -catless turbo back -stg 2 tune at 17psi My question is, will I notice a difference with still having my stock turbo and be safe tune wise or do I really need to get my tune edited a little? thanks, Jack

03-01-2011, 08:48 PM	#95
Fierysun Scooby Guru Member#: 82745 Join Date: Mar 2005 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: So Cal Vehicle: 2005 Subaru STI 2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon	What's the ideal method for plugging up the holes?

03-01-2011, 11:22 PM	#98
soobaviator Scooby Specialist Member#: 115070 Join Date: May 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Northern VA Vehicle: 2009 DGM LGT Spec.B 08 Audi Q7 4.2 PRM	8 mm however 5/16 works just fine

05-31-2011, 01:57 PM	#99
bobkat Scooby Newbie Member#: 266171 Join Date: Dec 2010 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: California Vehicle: 2006 wrx wagon Obsidian Black Pearl	thanks to this thead, helped me do my TGV deletes. then I decided to also paint match them to my intake manifold.