Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday March 20, 2019
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Miscellaneous > Off-Topic

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-14-2019, 04:09 PM   #1476
the_unknown
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 168211
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: The town that begins with Love
Vehicle:
2013 Cargobob

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IceWilly View Post
Damn I'm jealous of a powdercoating setup at a makerspace. That'd be sweet. None around me have one, but one of them does have grit blasting which would be cool as well.
The one near me is really cool. They have a Tormach 4 Axis CNC, so I'm thinking about making my own custom billet adjustable A arms and steering knuckles that have a shorter turning radius. Also, they have a full working metal shop with lathes, welders, etc...
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
the_unknown is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 02-19-2019, 11:34 AM   #1477
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

I just shamelessly hit up a work contact for some LED headlights, . I want a set, but don't think I'll have a few hundred dollars for them anytime soon. It's not that high on my list of upgrades.
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 12:46 AM   #1478
chapstien
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 68284
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: The state of being
Vehicle:
1988 GMC Sonoma
0-points

Default

Project: bike truck with a place to change and sleep.

99 Sonoma, 2.2l, 4l60e, 2wd, 6' bed

I got it from my neighbor last summer for $500. It started and did not have reverse. He had a bad experience with a transmission change (seems like he bought a bad transmission used) so it was last registered in 2013. 93K. I had him change the oil before turning the key.




I don't know a lot about transmissions, but I learned for this one if it's not going in reverse, it's internal pretty regularly. It sat there while I spent my budget on broken bike frames and parts.



I was going to get a used/rebuilt one, then decided not to shade tree a transmission on to my chest and found a guy that rebuilt and installed. When I got quotes, most of the shops I called said they had a 3-year warranty, and this guy said 1-year. He, and all the other guys, sell 3rd party warranties, he sells the separately. In fact, he didn't even try to sell me one, I asked him about the brochures I had been stating at, and said he sells 2 and 3-year ones if I really wanted one. His price was almost 3/4 of the others. He must have but in a shift kit because 1-2 shifts are crisp, for lack of a better term.

I had the interior detailed because it was more filthy that I wanted to mess with, unbelievable.

I couldn't live with the wheels. the pattern (4.75 x 5) limits the choices, American Racing and Pacer both have steel wheel more suited to me. Add a set of General Grabber AT2's, 225 x 70. I kept them at 15" so I could have a taller profile for mud and snow, and keep the original diameter to not need more torque to turn them. I found a site that has the diameter of a lot of tires in various sizes listed so I could get withing 0.25"



Coming items:

A bed and tailgate mat. I'll apply bedliner or something to the inside bed walls.

Paint the grille black. The center is cracked, and I would rather have a mesh or billet.

1UP hitch mount bike rack, black.

And the big one, ARE commercial 36" canopy with a single rear door with a window. One side will have a solid door and a tool box, the other a sliding window, and the front window slides. Fully lined with a headliner material, aluminum can get condensation. I need to see it I can to that to save a chunk, and use a more insulating material. That's why I don't need complete bedliner, and I wanted a thicker mat. I would probably line the bed walls with the same material.

There is a common mod to put on Explorer front brakes.

For sleeping, I am thinking about one of those cot-like things that climbers use on cliff walls, which would move out of the way really well.

Last edited by chapstien; 02-20-2019 at 01:01 AM.
chapstien is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:12 AM   #1479
lag
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34631
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Momma Didn't Love Me
Default

I put liner in my old truck mostly just for preservation. I think if I used it a lot I'd still get a mat since the liner material likes to put its mark on everything that's at all soft. Just one less thing to do. I'd experiment with a small amount of headliner if getting normal/generic stuff if you're using it anywhere that's not a sealed cabin. Mold and smells at best like to collect in it from my limited experience.

Looking good. Auto Trannies are easy to replace but weigh a good deal more than manuals. No way I'd shade tree it alone. Manuals... too many.
lag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 09:51 AM   #1480
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

I got my axle out.



I have a bolt that sheared off inside the bell, the bolt that held the driveshaft coupler. I have been trying to drill it out, left handed threads, no progress made. Any suggestions are much appreciated. It's an 8mm bolt, probably about 25mm long, and inset into the hole by about 3 or 4mm. My drill bit just isn't getting any purchase.

As for the axle, I'm going to do the disc brake conversion while it's out, and I have to relocate the two things circled in this picture. The lower one is the shock mount, and the upper one is the leaf spring mount. I'm going leaf under, so those need to be flipped.



Is a good idea doing the following:
1. use an angle grinder to remove the two pieces, careful to keep them in a condition where they can be mounted.
2. Use wire wheels on my drill to clean rust off all parts.
3. Weld leaf spring mount and shock mount in new locations.
4. Paint with black anti corrosion stuff.
5. Reinstall

So does that sound good? Any advice is much appreciated. I'm already farther in this than I've been on anything in a long time.
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:07 AM   #1481
VpointVick
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93193
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Charlotte
Vehicle:
'03 325iT
Mysticblau

Default

Cut off with angle grinder, not torch, and if anything sacrifice the perches and shock mounts, make sure not to cut into the axle tube. Replacement perches and mounts can be bought inexpensively.
perches
Shock mounts

You really want to minimize the amount of heat that you put into the axle tubes as they can distort if not welded on a fixture and even a little bit of axle misalignment can lock up your differential and cause wear.
VpointVick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:11 AM   #1482
Georgethefierce
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 41713
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: www.angrypork.com
Vehicle:
. sprayfinishing
supplies.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
Cut off with angle grinder, not torch, and if anything sacrifice the perches and shock mounts, make sure not to cut into the axle tube. Replacement perches and mounts can be bought inexpensively.
perches
Shock mounts

You really want to minimize the amount of heat that you put into the axle tubes as they can distort if not welded on a fixture and even a little bit of axle misalignment can lock up your differential and cause wear.

^^ this 100%
Georgethefierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:36 AM   #1483
AWDspider
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 43748
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: dallas
Default

I'm basically turning my zr2 into a pre-runner/crawler. 16" stroke 3" triple bypass Kings going in the rear, deaver spring under with new shackles. 3" double bypass 14" stroke Kings going on the front with custom long travel. New turbo setup with new connecting rods and pistons. Upgrades to the transmission to handle the torque increase. The goal is 300whp and 550-600wtq. Will be running 35" tires, extended fenders .

The pics below are early pics of the bumpers. The truck is being built down in Houston (I'm in Dallas). I try not to bug the builder too much so I don't have many pics. I know the rear suspension should be going on this week and the front upper/lowers arms should be finished this week and then we will order the front coilovers.




AWDspider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 10:50 AM   #1484
lag
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34631
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Momma Didn't Love Me
Default

Something more serious than a wirewheel may be needed for the areas you're welding. Nothing dramatic and wirewheel may be fine but just take a lot of time for the rust on the axle.

Angle is important... set it for your perches before final welding. *for total pinion angle

Verify how the tubes are held into the pumpkin. How they're in there may give you more fudge room. Welded in = very little room. Pressed/held in with pins of some sort = more fudge room and ability to maybe fix things if they get out of sorts.

It would be hard to put enough heat in the axle to warp it welding on perches, tabs, whatever but total possible. Heating the tubes is advisable at times just before welding.



Fun fact... racers with live axles will bend them to get negative camber, if they want more negative camber.

Fact: Negative camber used to be what you did not want in your suspension.


@ AWDspider

How did you like the truck from factory? I'm happy as hell we're getting other than full sized trucks again.

Last edited by lag; 02-20-2019 at 10:57 AM.
lag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:33 AM   #1485
tobylazur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 150289
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: PHX, AZ
Vehicle:
2006 SV650, 05 CTSV
1972 Travelall

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chapstien View Post
Project: bike truck with a place to change and sleep.

99 Sonoma, 2.2l, 4l60e, 2wd, 6' bed

I got it from my neighbor last summer for $500. It started and did not have reverse. He had a bad experience with a transmission change (seems like he bought a bad transmission used) so it was last registered in 2013. 93K. I had him change the oil before turning the key.




I don't know a lot about transmissions, but I learned for this one if it's not going in reverse, it's internal pretty regularly. It sat there while I spent my budget on broken bike frames and parts.



I was going to get a used/rebuilt one, then decided not to shade tree a transmission on to my chest and found a guy that rebuilt and installed. When I got quotes, most of the shops I called said they had a 3-year warranty, and this guy said 1-year. He, and all the other guys, sell 3rd party warranties, he sells the separately. In fact, he didn't even try to sell me one, I asked him about the brochures I had been stating at, and said he sells 2 and 3-year ones if I really wanted one. His price was almost 3/4 of the others. He must have but in a shift kit because 1-2 shifts are crisp, for lack of a better term.

I had the interior detailed because it was more filthy that I wanted to mess with, unbelievable.

I couldn't live with the wheels. the pattern (4.75 x 5) limits the choices, American Racing and Pacer both have steel wheel more suited to me. Add a set of General Grabber AT2's, 225 x 70. I kept them at 15" so I could have a taller profile for mud and snow, and keep the original diameter to not need more torque to turn them. I found a site that has the diameter of a lot of tires in various sizes listed so I could get withing 0.25"



Coming items:

A bed and tailgate mat. I'll apply bedliner or something to the inside bed walls.

Paint the grille black. The center is cracked, and I would rather have a mesh or billet.

1UP hitch mount bike rack, black.

And the big one, ARE commercial 36" canopy with a single rear door with a window. One side will have a solid door and a tool box, the other a sliding window, and the front window slides. Fully lined with a headliner material, aluminum can get condensation. I need to see it I can to that to save a chunk, and use a more insulating material. That's why I don't need complete bedliner, and I wanted a thicker mat. I would probably line the bed walls with the same material.

There is a common mod to put on Explorer front brakes.

For sleeping, I am thinking about one of those cot-like things that climbers use on cliff walls, which would move out of the way really well.
Man, it's amazing what a little elbow grease and few small changes can make. The truck looks great now!

Have you considered a camper shell on the bed then just sleeping on an air mattress in the bed?
tobylazur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:39 AM   #1486
AWDspider
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 43748
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: dallas
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lag View Post


@ AWDspider

How did you like the truck from factory? I'm happy as hell we're getting other than full sized trucks again.
Absolutely love the truck. I traded my 2017 taco TRD off-road for it. Hated that truck. The zr2 is the first vehicle I have paid off and have kept more than 30k miles and Ive had many many vehicles. At the time of the truck going off to my builder ive got 37k miles, I use it for work at times pulling anywhere from 2k-~5k pounds. I've pulled my RV several times (6500lbs), done a ton of offroading and my lifetime avg mpg (hand calculated) is 22.7mpg. on a road trip on relatively flat ground I would average 26-28mpg at 70mph.

The stock suspension is nice and handles great, works better when you remove the sway bar, however I want more hence the reason for the build. I've only had one issue and that was loose tie rod sleeve that i caused by too much skinny pedal on a hard trail. Dealer covered it under warranty.

My only complaints, they are small, is that for this kind of money it should have heated mirrors, smart key entry and push start and a locking tail gate. YMMV though
AWDspider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 11:40 AM   #1487
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgethefierce View Post
...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lag View Post
Something more serious than a wirewheel may be needed for the areas you're welding. Nothing dramatic and wirewheel may be fine but just take a lot of time for the rust on the axle.

Angle is important... set it for your perches before final welding. *for total pinion angle

Verify how the tubes are held into the pumpkin. How they're in there may give you more fudge room. Welded in = very little room. Pressed/held in with pins of some sort = more fudge room and ability to maybe fix things if they get out of sorts.

It would be hard to put enough heat in the axle to warp it welding on perches, tabs, whatever but total possible. Heating the tubes is advisable at times just before welding.
Thanks for all the input. I don't really understand what lag is saying in the part I bolded. Are you talking about fixing any warping due to welding heat, or are you talking about fixing any errors in the mounting of the perches?
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 12:42 PM   #1488
lag
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34631
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Momma Didn't Love Me
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDspider View Post
Absolutely love the truck.


My only complaints...
I have a good buddy I somewhat trust with auto opinions but he's a little over the top. He had a ~2009 Tundra, loved it. He bought it to do house projects and sold the truck after he was done with the house stuff. Hated not having it... got a tacoma and did a lot of the stuff Chappy is looking to do. I camp with him and was a little jealous of the mood lighting in the bed but I'm not single enough to double bunk. He moved so got rid of the tacoma. He liked it but not enough to get another one but did buy a much older one which says a lot to me. He was happy with the newer one but didn't find anything about the current one worth a real look again. Not sure if he looked at the current GMC/Chevy options though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSaabaru View Post
Thanks for all the input. I don't really understand what lag is saying in the part I bolded. Are you talking about fixing any warping due to welding heat, or are you talking about fixing any errors in the mounting of the perches?
Random Axles:

Almost sure this is a ford 8.8. Pinned tubes. The weld you see is a modification, not from factory. They're just pinned in as standard. Pull the pin pull the tube.




this one says Moser but didn't give any other info. Fully welded tube. It doesn't seem common to have a fully welded tube from factory on a mass produced vehicle but I don't have all of the stats.



This should be another ford but not sure which one. I'd guess 7.5" but have no emotion behind being wrong on any of that. Looks normally pinned as normally seen from factory.



If the tubes are pinned there's a lot of flex in them anyway. Distortion is a concern but you'll unlikely distort the axle outside of factory spec if the tubes are pinned in.

If the tubes are welded there's little deviation that can happen before the binding vpoint mentioned.

The pinion angle is more of a no option but right.



This can be source of vibration and u-joint failures if not correct.

I couldn't/didn't find specs on your specific axle.
lag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 01:40 PM   #1489
SilverFleet
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 91941
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: South Shore, MA
Vehicle:
2012 Mazda 3
'79 Trans Am WS6

Default

Spent some time fixing stupid crap on my Power Wagon over the weekend. To get an inspection sticker, I need lights, a horn, non-leaky exhaust, and to fix the P/S seatbelt floor mount. I started with the horn, because it was the easiest to knock off the list.




The old horn wiring consisted of a bunch of these household wire nuts holding corroded wires together, and even some bare wires wrapped around each other. No wonder why it was not working. Turns out that was just part of it; both horns were completely dead. I remembered I had a pair of truck horns I snagged for a former vehicle in my parts stash, so I mounted them up, cleaned up that terrible wiring, and things went TOOT TOOT!



As an added bonus, I decided to replace the crumbly negative battery cable and the ground to the core support. This not only made the truck 100x easier to crank over, but the core support ground seemed to be the key in getting all my headlights working! BONUS!!!

I love this truck so far. It's so goddamn simple to work on.
SilverFleet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 02:32 PM   #1490
Benhart21
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 149617
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Boulder-ish
Default

Every time I see a ZR2 it makes me want one again. I'm just having a hard time finding a diesel below $40k, and even the used ones with 35k miles on them are still at least $37k and usually either in the rust belt or on the east coast 1500 miles away. Doesn't help I've dropped more on my nearly 20 year old 4Runner with new wheels/tires, new double DIN head unit, front and rear bumpers with a tire carrier on the back, a new set of King 2.5" coilovers, and a new steering rack going in shortly.
Benhart21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:28 PM   #1491
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
Cut off with angle grinder, not torch, and if anything sacrifice the perches and shock mounts, make sure not to cut into the axle tube. Replacement perches and mounts can be bought inexpensively.
perches
Shock mounts

You really want to minimize the amount of heat that you put into the axle tubes as they can distort if not welded on a fixture and even a little bit of axle misalignment can lock up your differential and cause wear.
Sorry again, and I really appreciate the assist. If I bought the shock mount there in your link, does that mean I can get a shock that mounts through those holes, instead of trying to find a shock that mounts to the welded threads on the mount I have (see picture)?

I already have to get a custom shock because of the relocation.
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:33 PM   #1492
VpointVick
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93193
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Charlotte
Vehicle:
'03 325iT
Mysticblau

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSaabaru View Post
Sorry again, and I really appreciate the assist. If I bought the shock mount there in your link, does that mean I can get a shock that mounts through those holes, instead of trying to find a shock that mounts to the welded threads on the mount I have (see picture)?

I already have to get a custom shock because of the relocation.
You can go either way. Here is a stud mount one.
VpointVick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:33 PM   #1493
Hondaslayer
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4562
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, WA
Vehicle:
2014 Electric Datsun
2005 Adventure van

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benhart21 View Post
Every time I see a ZR2 it makes me want one again. I'm just having a hard time finding a diesel below $40k, and even the used ones with 35k miles on them are still at least $37k and usually either in the rust belt or on the east coast 1500 miles away. Doesn't help I've dropped more on my nearly 20 year old 4Runner with new wheels/tires, new double DIN head unit, front and rear bumpers with a tire carrier on the back, a new set of King 2.5" coilovers, and a new steering rack going in shortly.
Man,


We got a used one traded in. Super low miles (under 10k IIRC). One of our techs snagged it before it was even given an inspection. I believe he got it ~ 25k.
Hondaslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:35 PM   #1494
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
You can go either way. Here is a stud mount one.
Huh. How bout that.

I feel kinda stupid with how fast you found those.
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:42 PM   #1495
VpointVick
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93193
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Charlotte
Vehicle:
'03 325iT
Mysticblau

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSaabaru View Post
Huh. How bout that.

I feel kinda stupid with how fast you found those.
I'm no master, but my Google fu is pretty good.

I think that you'll likely want to stay with the studded mount as it will allow you to keep the shocks in more of a transverse mounting arrangement. The eyelet type will require the shocks to be more fore/aft.
VpointVick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:47 PM   #1496
MrSaabaru
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 74709
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne-ish
Vehicle:
2007 Solstice
2006 Saab 9-3 Aero

Default

I'm wondering if I should even worry about trying to save the ones on the axle already. I can't imagine not damaging the pieces when it's a rounded surface, when using an angle grinder, and putting emphasis on protecting the axle.

I'm also getting worried about welding. I've never welded before. I have some scrap I've gathered to practice on, but I have absolutely no idea what i'm doing.
MrSaabaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:47 PM   #1497
lag
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34631
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Momma Didn't Love Me
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverFleet View Post
nioce

"when in doubt, add grounds"


dad would say "clean your ****ing corroded cables or I'm taking your **** away the next time you ask why it's not starting."

"why not both"

Seeming one of the most forgotten parts not replaced in engine replacements. Ground straps.

Vpoint is dead on, there's no reason to reuse the mounts you're cutting off. Too much planning start and finish for a questionable part in the end.
lag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:49 PM   #1498
Georgethefierce
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 41713
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: www.angrypork.com
Vehicle:
. sprayfinishing
supplies.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSaabaru View Post
I'm wondering if I should even worry about trying to save the ones on the axle already. I can't imagine not damaging the pieces when it's a rounded surface, when using an angle grinder, and putting emphasis on protecting the axle.

I'm also getting worried about welding. I've never welded before. I have some scrap I've gathered to practice on, but I have absolutely no idea what i'm doing.
something as superficial as shock mounts are definitely a great first time welding project!
Georgethefierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:52 PM   #1499
totallynotbeau
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 387569
Join Date: Apr 2014
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: $eattle
Vehicle:
1968 Abomination
Mudstang

Default

Does this stuff really rust out and fall apart almost immediately?

Flexible exhaust pipe:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...+5ba2a4ce14c40

Ah screw it, it's going on the Gambler so crappy is cool. I'm contemplating a pretty damn crazy exhaust setup for the Mudstang, stay tuned.
totallynotbeau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2019, 03:55 PM   #1500
Hondaslayer
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4562
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, WA
Vehicle:
2014 Electric Datsun
2005 Adventure van

Default

Not quite.

I used it on an old Samurai back in MI. Made it through a winter before it came off in a swamp.



I would not use it for anything long term, but to get things in place and maybe test afew mufflers out for a few weeks? Hell yeah.
Hondaslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.