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Old 10-19-2016, 01:22 PM   #51
mrsaturn7085
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I've got it lying around somewhere but I'm out of the country til the weekend - PM me if no one gets you the correct p/n by Saturday.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:11 PM   #52
omgawg
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I was able to use a wrist pin plug IIRC
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:51 AM   #53
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You had two numbers transposed - it is 11021AA121
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Old 10-21-2016, 09:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdrz14 View Post
Hey, I bought the block plug part number 11021AA112 and it's not the correct plug. This part number is for the other side of the block, which is bigger. The plug we are looking for (next to the oil filter) is smaller. If anyone has a part number, that would be great!
Honda B series block has this fitting on the back of the block, that will work. Do not have a part #. Honda guys usually remove this from the block for their catch can set up.
http://honda-tech.com/forums/attachm...-black-box.jpg

It is the Hex shape nut.

Last edited by 1fstSTi; 10-21-2016 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 10-21-2016, 10:45 PM   #55
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Yeah, I just gave him the exact part number, above.
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:12 AM   #56
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You want this water pump, PN 2111AA065, if you want to delete the oil cooler/heat exchanger. This is the better water pump with the cast, closed impeller.
You can also use a PN 21111AA026 water pump and drive out the tube and tap for a 1/4" NPT plug, as has been suggested previously.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:35 AM   #57
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I urge you to research the varying opinions on cast vs. stamped impellers in our engines before taking someone's word that one is better than the other - there are very good shops on both sides of this fence.
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Old 06-07-2018, 10:28 AM   #58
Westyman
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Has anyone seen significant oil pressure changes after deleting the cooler?
Im battling high oil pressure issues after deleting my cooler and have to wonder if the oil is warming up very slowly creating high pressure.
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:39 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westyman View Post
Has anyone seen significant oil pressure changes after deleting the cooler?
Im battling high oil pressure issues after deleting my cooler and have to wonder if the oil is warming up very slowly creating high pressure.
Do you have a oil temp gauge?

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2876042

Have a look my at post #22 & #24 in that thread.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:36 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by point78 View Post
Do you have a oil temp gauge?

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2876042

Have a look my at post #22 & #24 in that thread.
No just oil pressure gauge. This is far from a performance build. I am keeping everything to stock specs, I only added the Oil Pressure gauge as a nice to have extra.

The posts in the other thread was helpful, thanks!
The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking that my oil may not be warming up quickly or effectively because the cooler/warmer is not aiding in the warmup. This could create the high oil pressures I am seeing, and maybe explain the pressure spikes when throttle is applied?

I really have not driven it since the work I did, mostly just idling. Im thinking maybe I just need to get the oil hot and see if it changes. also running a less viscous oil might help. Thoughts anyone?
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:36 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westyman View Post
No just oil pressure gauge. This is far from a performance build. I am keeping everything to stock specs, I only added the Oil Pressure gauge as a nice to have extra.

The posts in the other thread was helpful, thanks!
The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking that my oil may not be warming up quickly or effectively because the cooler/warmer is not aiding in the warmup. This could create the high oil pressures I am seeing, and maybe explain the pressure spikes when throttle is applied?

I really have not driven it since the work I did, mostly just idling. Im thinking maybe I just need to get the oil hot and see if it changes. also running a less viscous oil might help. Thoughts anyone?
Yeah, I bet it's cause the oil wasn't up to temp. (Takes a good 10-15 mins of driving, depending on outside temps.)

Can you block your cooler to try & see how the pressure is without the extra cooling?
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:47 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by point78 View Post
Yeah, I bet it's cause the oil wasn't up to temp. (Takes a good 10-15 mins of driving, depending on outside temps.)

Can you block your cooler to try & see how the pressure is without the extra cooling?
Im going to take it for a drive and see what happens. I deleted the cooler entirely and bypassed the coolant hoses, so there is no way to test that.
The engine is actually in a VW vanagon, the cooler was deleted to maintain ground clearance. I could rig up a remote cooler/filter which I have done in the past, but it costs a decent amount, and is a lot of work to install.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:06 PM   #63
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The cooler should not slow the warm-up, but the lack of a pre-warmer will (which is basically what the original "cooler" is). This is likely what you're seeing.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:21 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
The cooler should not slow the warm-up, but the lack of a pre-warmer will (which is basically what the original "cooler" is). This is likely what you're seeing.
Yes, that is exactly what I'm thinking. Thanks
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Old 07-21-2018, 01:32 PM   #65
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Hi Gents!

I see this topic is veeeery old,but this subject is always actual, hope I still may have some answers

Long story short, I have a 06 Hawkeye Impreza WRX STi (not wrx conversion, born to be an STi), EJ25 engine,chassis: JF1GD70666L.......
as far as I could recover informations,it's got a swapped engine,from 2004,cosworth stuff inside.

Project plan: delete oem water-oil heat exhanger,put a thermostatic sandwich adapter in place. It's not gonna be like what Mishimoto designed,with banjo fittings, but with straight outlets(AN10). Plan is to face the fittings pointing forward,so the hoses will be routed above the cross section of exhaust manifold(heat shielded of course),and under the plastic cover of timing belt housing, achieving the sortest possible routing of oil lines. (Hope I write it clear,I'm livin in east europe).

I recognised,if the sandwich adapter sits straight on he block,an if I want to point the AN fittings forward(and I really would like to) the lower edge of the timing belt plastic cover lower edge meight be in the way,by a centimeter (~half an inch), but I can solve this I believe.

Does anyone have a similar setup,and if so, could he/she post some photos how does it look like in real?

I appreciate if anyone takes his/her time, and answers me, thank you in advance!

Rob
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:25 PM   #66
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This is very common. You should absolutely delete the OEM oil heater/cooler when installing a remote oil cooler. It will allow the oil cooler to perform better and remove that heat load from the cooling system. There are several sandwich adapter setups out there; we use and recommend the Mocal components. Be sure to use the highest thermostat you can get for your setup and make sure to monitor oil temps. Overcooling the oil can cause more problems than over heated oil.


Speaking of oil temps... What temps are you seeing now? Are you certain you need an oil cooler?
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:51 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI gazda View Post
Project plan: delete oem water-oil heat exhanger,put a thermostatic sandwich adapter in place. It's not gonna be like what Mishimoto designed,with banjo fittings, but with straight outlets(AN10). Plan is to face the fittings pointing forward,so the hoses will be routed above the cross section of exhaust manifold(heat shielded of course),and under the plastic cover of timing belt housing, achieving the shortest possible routing of oil lines. (Hope I write it clear,I'm livin in east europe).

I recognised,if the sandwich adapter sits straight on he block,an if I want to point the AN fittings forward(and I really would like to) the lower edge of the timing belt plastic cover lower edge meight be in the way,by a centimeter (~half an inch), but I can solve this I believe.

Does anyone have a similar setup,and if so, could he/she post some photos how does it look like in real?
Rob - you have a good plan, and this is exactly how Subaru did it on the Spec C models. The pipes used were closer to 6AN diameter, however. If you'd like to go larger, I'd recommend 8AN but this totally depends on your goals. The factory Spec C oil cooler doesn't divert 100% of the oil when the thermostatic valve opens, but rather only some of it. If you want 100% (or at least the majority) of the oil to run through a cooler when the valve opens, bigger lines are absolutely a good idea.

Also take note, increasing oil system volume is something that should be done with care. This *can* negatively affect oil pressure when throwing in a giant cooler without changing anything else. I suggest the smallest cooler than keeps your temperatures where you want them, even if it means buying small and upgrading as needed (and selling the old cooler to recoup some money).

I also understand your issues running the lines between the timing belt cover and exhaust manifold. Again, this is how Subaru did it on the Spec C models, but they used the tubular (not case) twin-scroll manifold. You will have quite a bit of difficulty getting anything larger than 6AN lines (properly fire-sleeved) between the OEM cast manifold and the timing belt cover. If you'd like to go larger, or simply keep a little extra room between the lines and hot surfaces, I would suggest the Tomei EL single-scroll exhaust. The exhaust is as close to OEM fit as you'll get and the build quality is top notch. Be prepared to be incredibly itchy for about a week as they leave the wrapping to you (though they do provide the fiberglass wrap).

KillerB recommended the brand I would as well - Mocal makes good stuff and they will be happy to help if you call them up with some core sizing questions.

The OEM oil cooler is a good way to do this, but you'll need the following parts:

OEM block adapter
OEM hard lines (underneath right headlight)
OEM cooling core
OEM rubber lines (4) and clamps (8)
Tomei (or similar) single-scroll EL exhaust manifold

If you can't answer KillerB's question (quoted below), I don't think you'd want to go any larger than the OEM parts on the core *or* the lines.

Quote:
Speaking of oil temps... What temps are you seeing now? Are you certain you need an oil cooler?
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:49 AM   #68
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Used a Perrin oil sandwich adapter with a Mocal bypass.
The sandwich adapter provided additional clearance for the timing cover.
Made shield using Inferno Heat Shield (inner ceramic pad).
This a ETS twin scroll made for difficult fit up.

Link to images:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...K1?usp=sharing
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Old 07-22-2018, 02:13 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goneagain2011 View Post
Used a Perrin oil sandwich adapter with a Mocal bypass.
The sandwich adapter provided additional clearance for the timing cover.
Made shield using Inferno Heat Shield (inner ceramic pad).
This a ETS twin scroll made for difficult fit up.

Link to images:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...K1?usp=sharing
That's a really nice looking install!
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:13 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
That's a really nice looking install!
Thanks, had a little help from this thread.
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Old 07-23-2018, 02:06 AM   #71
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Here's a few reference shots, as OP requested:








Last one is the EJ257 w/ Tomei EL SS
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:38 AM   #72
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I am actually selling that Spec C thermostat, if anyone is interested
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:08 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goneagain2011 View Post
Used a Perrin oil sandwich adapter with a Mocal bypass.

The sandwich adapter provided additional clearance for the timing cover.

Made shield using Inferno Heat Shield (inner ceramic pad).

This a ETS twin scroll made for difficult fit up.



Link to images:



https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...K1?usp=sharing


what product is that textured metal sheet that you used around the fittings on the sandwich plate? i see it used all the time in motorsport but i dont know what it is called so i dont know what to search for to buy some.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:54 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titter View Post
what product is that textured metal sheet that you used around the fittings on the sandwich plate? i see it used all the time in motorsport but i dont know what it is called so i dont know what to search for to buy some.
Inferno Heat Shield, in this specific example. There are a number of exhaust manufacturers that can make this stuff though - usually it is spot welded to itself to provide a slip-free permanent fit. If you ever have a custom exhaust manifold built by a motorsport one-off exhaust shop, they should be able to do this. Keep in mind the corrugated metal that you see is more for fire-proofing - the inner ceramic/fiberglass liner or wrap is the heat shield.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:07 PM   #75
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mrsaturn7085,killerb, goneagain, big thanks for replying! (and of course for everyone )

I'm impressed, and I appreciate it!

To answer your tips:
I have 200,but rather 220 fahrenheit of oil temperature, entering the oil filter. This is normal for normal engine operation, I know.
As soon as drive it even just a little bit harder,or even set the cruise for a little higher speed on the highway, starts to climb immediately, reaching 230fahrenheit easily, and this is where I usually stop abusing the engine, so I have never tried yet, what's the highest temp I could get... (it took some efforts,some time to finally buy the car, I try to take care of it, not to ruin it...)
The goal would be to keep it around 200-210 when driven harder, so I could enjoy the ride without being afraid of issues with the engine.

Oil press drop: I'm not worried of it, I'm running on Motul 15w50, even in summer hot "cold" start, it hits 100 psi when entering the oil filter (well...at least my prosport gauges can't show any bigger than 100psi ) and normal 70-80psi when operating temperature and the engine is on normal load.
So dropping a few psi would not worry me...

size of radiator,hardware: can't say "thank you" enough for the answer of mistersaturn and goneagain, this setup is what I'm gonna use. There will be a sandwich plate under the cooler adapter,accomodating my prosport press and temp sender,and giving the clearence from the timing belt cover. I know the best would be to avoid pile up those sandwich plates/adapters,as they may be a source of leak/malfunction,but still that's the best option I think...
Radiator itself is definately won't be too big,it's a 9 row unit.
The adapter has a built in thermostat of course,opening at 75 celsius (167fahrenheit), but I have to confirm this with the parts store.

I have seen an another idea,to use the low oil press warning switch location as the location of our aftermarket senders, but prosport is way too big and won't fit stays at the oil filter.

I'm not sure, but I think the oem water-oil heat exchanger is swetting oil from where it's seated, so that o-ring is getting tired, making this project even more actual at least, it's a good excuse to start with it

Last edited by STI gazda; 07-26-2018 at 01:25 PM.
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